oh by the way, check the connections at the battery , battery chassis ground and alternator to make make sure they are clean as well. Corroded connectionds dont help the situation eigther. Oh and make sure you have the proper large gauge wire for the system as well.



The Yellow top has 810 or 870 cranking amps depending on model, the Red tops have 910 or 1000 cranking amps depending on model. But thats not really important (otherwise reds would be better by that logic) , whats more important is the reserve capacity (higher on the yellow tops) have and that the yellow tops are deep cycle.

As far as 1 farad for a thousand watts being incorrect , seems to be a commonly accepted "formula" when the system is under 2000 watts but more capacitance doesnt hurt. Besides he has less than a 1000 watts (if i remember correctly, could be wrong, its 3:39 am, lol) so one good battery under the hood should be fine for a system that size. If the current battery he has is bad then that could explain the dimming lights and i would highly reccomend the yellow top. (get the batt and alt checked by a shop with a tester)
As far as a battery for every 1000 watts, sure , thats good if your system is over 2000 watts , then it would definately help , so long as the alternator can run the extra load.

red, yellow, and blue top are optimal bateries, these are amazing batteries but are very expensive, cost on them alone is like 200....... but it is worth the investment since it helped solved my problem when i added a batter to my trunk

i used to have that with my stang, i went to a higher output alternator, no cap adn everything worked like a charm. :veryhappy

well i think part of my problem is that its still the stock battery that comes with the car and it says made in korea :bs:

optima red top
bigger amp
bigger cap
bigger wiring..... all works