Busted hose. Please help!!
 

So I was driving 2 days ago and the temp needle flew up. Pulled over and found that a stressed area of hose finally cracked and had antifreeze draining/squirting out. I'm not sure what type of hose that is or if I should buy a new OEM hose. Or where to buy one. Or if I can do it by myself, or if its difficult to do. Anyway, please let me know what I should do. :D

The broken hose area is directly underneath the blue tape on the right. I did a crappy stitch up with tape to drive it the block home.
Attachment 158156

Yeah so ... Should I just go to a shop? What part is that? Do I need the OEM hose? ... Arrrrg! Please help. :)

Bummer dude that hose is hard to replace. If you dont think your up to it take it to a shop. If you dont do it right it will leak...bad. Oh yeah I think you should expect to pay around 30-40 bucks for it... thats how much it was when my friend replaced power steering hose (similar i think)

dude my hose is busted too...right on the wtp but i covered it with some silcone tape crap that made for hoses...but um u would have to order from a dealers unless u wanna replace that hose with a plain 1...but then u wouldnt have that valve so......

What does that valve do ... is it important... Meh, I'm thinking I'll take it to a shop i guess ... Any more advice guys? :) thanks

Well if its there its gotta be important...thats all im gonna say

thats the 2nd hose this week ive seen broken.lol. some guy at the track broke his too on a cammed LT1. coolant all over. he was racing 30 minutes later tho.

well my z28 had the problem before i got it, cuz it had two universal hoses replacing both stock heater hoses. it looked gay, but worked.

the valve is the bleeder valve. just makes filling your system easy. i'd take this to a shop, they can get you the new hose, and just the portions you need.

and whats with your IAT sensor? it looks like it isnt even plugged in...

I unplugged it to tape it, and take a picture. Normally its in. :P Yeah, thanks for the advice, I guess I'll take it to a shop on Monday or something. Can't wait to start driving that beast agian. :D You know what sucks tho? My phone broke right when my car broke ... now I can't drive to the phone store. Life sucks. Haha joking, I'll make it. Anyway, thanks guys. I guess going to a shop is the correct answer.

If i were you I would just cut out a piece and take it to the zone. Find a piece the same size and buy a coupler.

It will be a lot cheaper than going to a shop. And in the meantime keep an eye open for people parting out a wrecked car so you can get a replacement part. The bleeder isn't absolutely neccessary but it does make life a little easier when filling the coolant back up.

and don't eliminate the bleeder, or you will have a nightmare bleeding the system

This is what I wanted to do at first, but wasn't excatly sure how. Would they make a coupler that would fit between the bleeder and the other side still allowing room enough to complete the plumbing? This would be sweet and easy for me to do if I had just a little more guidance. :p

well the section of pipe the bleeder is in is actually crimped. most shops dont have the tools to do it (at least mine doesnt, we sent some AC lines out to get crimped yesterday.

OK guys ... Update ... Went to Shucks and a nice car guy helped me rig up this sweet fix that goes bleeder to 1 inch of hose to 90 degree coupler to hose straight on to the connection. It looks sweet and it is all tight, but here is the deal. I drove it the 3 blocks home and the temp needle flew up agian ... I think this is because I didn't bleed the air out. Are their any things to remember when I do this?

Edit: I just read what you said. So your saying my coupler thing won't work? Or ... for now fix?

NEW UPDATE: ... Bled the thing till water came out, refilled it, and ran it for 10 minutes and it didn't go over 190 (pushin her pretty hard 2). Think I fixed the worst problem, now I need to just flush it and keep slowly cooling her down. Maybe manual fan switch...

manual fan switch is for having the fan on when stopped not to make it cool better (and is redneck) when bleeding you open the screw fill it with heat on high wait for t stat to open keep topped off close bleeder and cap 190 is about perfect for an internal combustion engine (that is just over what pro drag cars come to the line with)