lightweight flywheel ?????????
 

So I'm about to put my new clutch in, and im trying to figure out if I should just resurface my flywheel or get a new lightweight one. Anyone have one? Anyone know the gains?

I know they make a big difference on turbo small engine cars, but how big a diff on our Z's? Would I feel it SOTP ... or at least enough worth the extra 200-250 bucks?

I've also heard to stick with steel for durability. Let me know your opinions. Thanks :eleph:

street car stick with steel a little easier to drive, and the gains are very minimal (less than 5 hp normally)

I would stick with the steel. Alum is goin to make the engine rev faster, but also a little harder to get started since the motor isn't going to have the inertia from the steel.

I honestly don't think you physically feel any difference, but it might make you think its faster since it will rev faster.

I'm going to need to put a new clutch in this winter and as such have done a ton of research on the subject but I cannot speak from personal experiance.

This is exactly what I've heard, for daily driving the steel is better. The light weight one really won't give you any hp, sure a couple will be gained but nothing really. It's all just to lighten up the rotating mass so the engine can spin up and get into it's powerband easier. If I was going to autocross or road race my car then I would go with a lightweight flywheel because when you drive the car correctly you keep the RPM's up even through the turns and this will just help you out that much more. But since I drive my car on the street most of the time I will stick with my steel flywheel.

Cool guys. Thanks for the info, thats kinda what I've been hearing too. I think I'll just get her resurfaced.

One other thing, I know to replace the slave cylinder, but would anything else be a good idea to throw in while its torn apart?

just be sure to use loc tite on the bolts

Plus, if like most guys with RWD muscle cars, you like to drag race, the steel is better because it helps to keep the inertia and momentum up from the launch, and in between shifts.

I love how everyone says "aluminum flywheels suck" yet 99% have never driven one (or for that matter even known anyone WITH an aluminum flywheel). I really wish people would speak from experience and not just regurgitate "information" (or more correctly myths) they got off the net.

I can tell you from experience there is NO issue with aluminum flywheels on the street (not unless perhaps it's in a 5000lb boat). They drive smoothly, shift easier, and allow for better acceleration/deceleration. Like most things it's the driver that makes it "hard to drive".

Further people always say "heavy flywheels go faster on the strip"....wrong again..... On launch you can generate....what....300ft/lbs (stock) if you want to. Do you honestly think it takes that much torque to launch a car (want torque, pull your LS1 and install a CAT...1000+ft/lbs)? Most people don't even have drag radials, much less slicks so they end up roasting the tires (or having the feather) off the line and then we get another post about them bitching about needing more traction. But, lets say your 60ft drops by some .0X seconds. Fine...now how about the rest of the 1/4?

Why do you think professional drag racers try to get really small, light weight clutches that bolt to almost weightless flex-plates?


Is it worth $200? Well hmm....people pay $500+ for headers and hope to get the same 10-15HP numbers. Do you feel a difference, I know I did.