SES light still on
 

My SES light has been on for about a month now, which is no big deal because I knew it was the EGR Malfuntion code. I finally got around to changing it today, but the light is still on.

Somebody please tell me that the computer needs to be re-programmed for the light to go back off.....otherwise there's something else wrong, like the stupid little purge valve or who knows what else! :mad:

I can't stand these ***** computerized cars. :banghead:

Any advice?.....anyone.....anyone.......HUH? :D

Unhook the battery for a couple mins and then hook it back up. That should reset the computer and hopfully take care of it.

Yup x2, also where i work (advance auto) we scan cars, so we have a lot of people coming back to erase the codes after they fix the problem.

Sweet!!! Thank you my brotha's...:kiss: He-He-Heeeee.......

God I Love this place....:yeahpc: :yourock:

yea when i worked for advance we had a lot of code cars... most people didnt even give a **** what the code was, they just wanted the light off

if it comes back on get a custom tune to get that deleted.

yep, custom tunes are tiight

on an obd II car disconnecting the battery won't clear the codes, you can just turn teh key on and off a few times and it will shut the light off, or go to advance and have them reset the light with the scan tool (only way you'll know if it comes back)

Now that's what I needed to hear ;) cause I unhooked the battery and it didn't go off. So, now I'll go out and try the key switch a couple times to see if that works.

Be right back.....:D

Well, that didn't work either. :( So I guess I'll have to take a trip up to AutoZone and see about having them reset it. I sure hope that's all it is, cause from the code it spit out (which was P0400) it say's: "EGR System Flow Insufficient".

Now with me changing the EGR Valve, what else could it be? Maybe the Purge Valve? :ne_nau: I can't figure out why the light didn't go off by disconnecting the battery.

In my Chiltons Manual, under "Clearing Codes".....it say's: Stored fault codes may be erased from memory at any time by removing power from the ECM for at least 30 seconds. ...........Hmmmm, you'd think by disconnecting the battery, that would classify as removing power to the ECM. :headscrat

taking the battery off will reset everything and if theres still a problem drive around a while it will come back on, if not after about 20 miles or so then it was fixed.

HaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaHaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaHaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa aa!!!!! :laugh: (this is actually very funny if you read the whole thread and understand what really happened)

Oh man........you guys should get a kick out of this one. I did something I'm almost too embarrased to admit. (But I'm gonna do it anyway) Earlier when I pulled the positive cable of the battery and the light didn't go off, I thought it had to be something else.

Well guess what I did?........I went back out there to look around at all the hoses and lines it showed in the diagram, (Chiltons Manual) when I looked over at the battery again.

It turns out that I only disconnected my 0 Guage Amp cable from the battery. :lolhittin That cable is SO big, and I was so frustrated at the time, that my brain must have been on recess,...... cause I only removed the outer nut from the post and pulled the big 'ol cable off. :lolsign:

So I grab a wrench without thinking,...... I unhook the positive cable, when all the sudden my "Battery Kill Back-up Alarm" started blasting super loud.......which scared me so bad I almost pissed my pants. :D

I finally got it shut off and hooked everything back up, and wouldn't you know it..........."MY LIGHT'S OFF"...:eleph: So yes, you all have my blessing to make fun me now. He-He-Heeeeeeeeeeee I really am a Tard! :nana:

haha, that's great. I knew that'd clear the code.

if it comes back on your gonna kick yourself more.lol. thats what happened with me and my EVAP **** but thanks to LT1 edit cause now i dont have anymore of that BS.lol. funny *** story.lol good luck man, hope it stays off for good:D

Yup.....went for a long cruise and let it get real warm, but it stayed off,...so Yeah! :D

You mentioned before about getting a custom tune and having that deleted. Are you talking about getting something like a PCM4Less computer tune? And if I have whatever deleted, am I still going to pass emissions.

As long as I'm able to pass the friggin emissions test, I'd be willing to do almost anything to improve the looks and performance of the car.

yep you sure will pass. AS LONG AS they dont do like visual inspection and you are missing things. however if they are still left there youll pass. we dont have visual here, just for OBDII cars you get plugged in and make sure everything checks out. right now the illegal things on my car are, no cats, rear O2 simms, no EGR, no AIR pump, and no EVAP. no SES light either and passes emmisions.hehe PCM4less tune will work, i paid 100 bucks for a local guy to use LT1 edit and take that **** out and turn fans on sooner.

I just found a guy that works at the emissions station who'll help me out this Saturday!!! I'm so exicted not to have to worry about passing.

Sorry I just had to post that.

lol. STFU Chad with all your connections.lol

Yeah, I know we don't have visual here either, so that will rock when it comes time to do it. (July for me) I think I'll go ahead and throw my 160 stat back in it since the weather isn't cold anymore, then see about getting the PCM4less tune with the stuff I have.

As far as the fans coming on sooner with the tune, that's cool.....but I should have my manual fan switch delivered any day now.

.^-^.
V)''(V
(_o_) not WooT, but.......

WOOF!!!! :D

if you got the SLP one, you can turn it on whenever you want and it also comes on at stock temp so you should still consider having them recalibrated for lower t-stat cause then you wont be putting it on manually all the time, like for daily driving, but you can use it at the track whenever you want. just my .02 cents

Nope, I got the one from Speed Specialties......but it still works the same way though. I'm still gonna have them recalibrate the fans for normal driving conditions, but as far as worrying about it getting hot at the track......ain't gonna happen!

I'm sure I'll take it out there once after having it tuned, but that's only to satisfy my curiosity. After running 10 second quarters, going out there in this car and running high 13's is not something I'd really consider to much fun.

I've just been doing it for too many years with high compression big blocks and open headers, to try and get that excitment with this car. Now don't get me wrong, I think anyone with a car that likes going fast should go out and have a good time,......but for me, it's like riding a 1200cc Harley Davidson for 20 years, and then getting on a moped. :lolsign:

I actually have more fun playing Cat & Mouse on the freeway with these imports than anything else right now......but I hear what you're saying. I'll probably need to use it the most when it comes to sitting in rush hour traffic during the summer. ;)

yea. for stock cars tho and small blocks these things really crank. most of the Hemi's and big block cars ran pretty similar down the track mostly because they were insanely heavy. either way V8 owns all.bottom line:D