V8 Debate
 

ok I don't mean to start a flame war or anything I simply want factual info. on what makes an LS1 better than LT1 or vice versa. What are the pro's and con's of them? Which would you rather drop in a car?

the lt1 has one major issue, the opti spark distributor.The ignition on the ls engines is far superior

I have to disagree, the only weak point is the fact the distributor is hard to change. From what I read both systems are very accurate and some suggest the LT1 ignition might be more accurate because it sits directly on the front of the cam (if their is any truth to this I don't know). Any way both engines basically have good ignition systems and if you own an LS1 be prepared to spend big bucks if you want to upgrade.

The engines really have nothing in common so the differences between the two are great. The LS1 has the advantage now that it has a large after-market and is compatible with all late model GM 8 cylinder engines. The LT1 however due to its reverse flow cooling is really compatible with nothing out side the LT1 and LT4 family. The LS1's main advantage is it heads which outperform the LT1 heads, this plus some tuning is what makes the LS1 so strong in its stock form. When the gloves off and the bank accounts are emptied then both engines are basically the same performance wise. A set of LT1 AFR heads will out flow any ported and polished stock LS1 head. Point is that you do major upgrades the LS1's advantage starts to weaken. IMO I like the LT1 better because of the looks and the fact the mods are cheaper.

a distributor is never as accurate as a direct ignition (not to mention teh resistance of the plug wires)most pro race engines have used either a distributorless ignition, or magneto for years

LS1 is better mostly becuase its newer. technology. if you are budget based done even think about anything but an LT1. LT1s can make awesome power for very limited money. LS1s are great motors also, but like RFF said, expensive and mostly just expensive.lol. Ive never had any problem with my ignition, my optispark has been COVERED in oil, grim, mud, water. everything. its been blasted with all of it. never had one problem with it. choice is yours but if your talking cheap power, LT1. and they still have a decent aftermarket.

LT1 VOTE
 

I will have to agree with the above statement that it is cheaper and easier to do mods to an LT1, It's my understanding that the LT1 is basicly just a small block chevy thats been around for some time, where as the LS1 is a complete new design that as nothing in comin with it's earlier ancestors. In my case the LT1 was the obvious choice because I am just going to drag race my car no street. If I was looking for stock best bang for the buck I would go LS1. Theres my 2cents.

The LS1 is better than LT1 because it makes more power than an lt with similiar mods, it has way better heads than an lt,has abetter ignition system,ls guys are in the single digits with stock coils, the ignition doesnt need spark boxes and aftermarket coils like an lt,the heads can be ported to support big power and big cubic inches, also there are many variants of th ls heads and blocks to choose from and growing by the day,we now have ls7 heads and the world products warhawk block which will support 500+c.i. as for being expensive the ls1 is worth every single dime when it boils down to it.in the end i believe you will be much more satisfied with the ls1. i left the lt1 camp along long time ago dissapointed with its power for the money i put in it,i had a 95 maro that went 11.50's-10.90's with a 383 lt4 conversion and n20 150 wet shot.if i remember correct i got the lt4 conversion for about $2500- bbk tb 52 mm $380 -383 kit $1800- ported lt4 heads that flowed about 290cfm @.600 $1000 + add ons and cam 850$.i went through like 4 opti -pos- . thats over 6k in just the motor so idont really wany to hear that its cheaper crap.and ibuilt the motor myself, iran 10.50's in 01 ws6 with way less than that ,about 2500$ SORRY fellas just my $0.02$

different bore / stroke relation, different fireing order, higher ratio rocker arms, valve angle is way better, ignition system, better cooling cuz of the aluminum parts just a lot better designed engine. LTx are garbage, the after market is small in comparison to Gen 1 SBC's yet theres nothing that has really changed sept for reverse cooling and some weird type of ignition system which i hear has nothing but problems. LSx is the way to go by far, either that or a Gen 1 SBC, LTx is the last motor i owuld purhcase.

They both are very good engine... ls1 having better heads and netting an avg of 75ish hp over the lt1 on the ground... the lt1 has the bigger aftermarket... the average performance engine builder lacks.. the practical experience in building an all aluminum engine/. the ls1 has long sstroke and narrow bored and smaller actual displacement.. and lt1 can accomodate larger bored valves then an ls1 cant... an ls1 will run out of cubes in stroking it long before an eqivalent lt1... but the ls1 has a lightweight desing.. the ls1 intake flows alot better but cannot be boredout like the lt1s can. the ls1 is the most efficent breather from the factory and the the best choice but for future intentions aof modifaction the lt1 is tops for now...... thank you gmh high tech

So what makes the LTx so much better than the gen 1 sbc's?

Because it is not worth the money to convert a carb to fuel injection. I don't know about you but I see powerful carb engines good for strip use only. They suck for a daily driver.

but its still the same motor, with a much smaller after market

IMO i will build a distributor motor (SBC) before i EVER build a LT1 again.A roller late model vortec truck block can be built for way less tha an LTx, and outperform it powerwise for the same money spent.There is way more aftermarket heads selection for both the LSx and SBC platforms and in the end thats what counts.

Why don't you explain to us how you went 10.5 with only $2500 in mods?

Ported 5.3 stage 2 heads with 2.00 intake 5 angle valve job SUN RACING ENGINES heads from PASADENA TX.stage 2 means removed roker boss and guide area reshaping with wall runner polishing, short side radius polishing,valve throat machined to 90% of valve diameter,com.cham. matched to 3.900 bore,spark plug boss reshaped,polished chamber ,heads surfaced,for 11:5CR.850$+core. comp cams custom grind 225/230 in./ex. .600/.600 @115lsa from SUN 400$ headgaskets/bolts from SDPC 100$ MTI lid 100$ made long tubes 150$ custom 3.5 exhaust with y -pipe 250$ and conversion for existing n20 wet to wet n dry 2 stage 150$ ported 80 mm tb/ oil pump 25$ ported/polished ls6 manifold 25$walbro 255 $100 SUN 7.350 crmoly .080wall 5/16 pushrods 100$ custom 9 mm wires 80$ ngk tr55(8) 20$ +crankacase evacuation, other add ons and free mods ,reverse air pump 100-150$=2500 in motor . THANX :cool: