How to Install a AEM Fuel Filter
 

AEM FUEL FILTER


When I was in store to replace the fuel filter in my race car, I looked no where else but to AEM for my fuel system. Already running a AEM fuel rail and AEM fuel pressure Regaulter, I went ahead and got myself a matching AEM fuel Filter. The AEM Fuel Filter does not only look great under my hood but it also delivers fuel up to 500 HP and has a replaceable filter element. The 6061 aluminum filter housing provides excellent durability and is double O-ringed to deliver superior leak protection and can be fitted to work with most cars. The filter case comes in 3 colours to match your engine bay and comes with all the hardward to be mounted into a Honda/Acura. To make this filter work with other cars, it takes a few fittings and alittle bit of space under the hood.

This tech article will show you how to replace the stock fuel filter with a AEM fuel filter and the feed line to the rail using the -6AN fuel line/fittings.
Approximate install time 1-2 Hours
Testing your connections: Be careful of open flames, gas spray and wear eye protection.

Depressurize fuel system by disconnecting the fuel pump harness and turning the car over till it does not start anymore.
Disconnect the (-) size of the battery.

Place paper towels under the fuel rail inlet flange.

Remove stock fuel filter from the mounting bracket and fuel line from filter to rail.

Place where you want the new fuel filter to be and cut your new -6AN fuel line to
length that will go from the top of the AEM fuel fitler to the inlet side of the fuel rail.

Install 2 6-AN Female ends on each side of the fuel line.

Apply thread sealer/teflon tape to a -6an 4m x1.5 Female Saginaw adapter
Install the -6AN straight swivel to the bottom of the filter housing.

Take the bare end of the hose and route the way you want it to the new fuel rail inlet fitting taking note that the engine will move front/back on accereration so leave some slack.

On the top of the AEM fuel filter, install a fuel pressure banjo fitting and a banjo take-off
bolt with the new crush washers that are supplied with the filter.

Place a fuel pressure gauge or a cap on top of the take-off bolt.

Place the new fuel filter back into the old fuel filter mounting bracket.

Run a new -6an fuel line from tank to the swivel at the bottem of the fuel filter.

Reconnect the (-) of the battery and replug the fuel pump harness.

Start the car watch out for any leaks from the fittings and filter.

Part Numbers:
AEM High Volume Fuel Filter #25-200
Replacement filter (NAPA Gold Part #PN4950 or FRAM part #CH6069)
Russel -6AN Fuel Line
Russel Swivel Flare to Matric adapter #670520
Russel Fuel Pressure Take Off Bolt #640700
Russel Banjo Fuel Fitting #640910
Russel Straight End Fitting # 610020
Fuel Pressure Gauge (Any Gauge With a 1/8" Fitting)

nice write up...you should post it on dsm.org

Nice write up. But why use all those high flow fuel system components yet still use a banjo bolt on the fuel filter outlet? If you calculate the cross sectional area of those two holes on the banjo bolt, or the single hole on the banjo bolt fitting, I'm certain the area would be significantly less then that of the fuel line or any other component in the system. You might as well bolt your stock fuel rail back on until you replace that fitting with something with a higher flow capacity.

yes most definetly put a 90 degree AN fitting on there instead of the banjo.

I still prefer the look of my earl's filter over that one, nice write up though.