1998 turbo prelude What setup dou you got?
 

I juste recently buy a 1998 prelude and im thinking of putting it turbo i want too know what is the best setup thanks

First off you need to do alot of research in the supporting websites for your engine options. You should have a power goal in mind and it doesn't neccissairly need to be reached right away as there is always room for more power. You will need to convert your car to obd1 and most likely should have your car tuned on crome. There are many local tuners in the GTA that supporting this tuning software. If you need help sourcing out parts i can lead you in the right direction if you are actually serious. Shoot me a pm if you like:smilie_da

Why does the prelude need to be converted to OBD1? When I turbo'd my old SiR (a 1999) it was all hardware, with Hondata running everything.

EDIT: I should mention that I'm genuinely asking and not trying to make you sound dumb or anything. I didn't handle the turbo setup (I had a shop do it), so I'm just curious the reason why the conversion to OBD1 is needed and whether or not it was done to my SiR

This is my Prelude....... I gives you an idea of what needs to be done. Sorry this was copied of my forsale on another forum, but you get the idea.


http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...629_1_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...29_13_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...29_18_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...629_9_full.jpg

For those not familiar with my car, here's the specs.

Turbo setup has over $10,000 put into it. Only brand-name parts.

Complete built by Gilman Motorsports, and tuning done by ********.

250whp+ currently at lowest boost level (5.5 psi). Motor is designed to withstand over 20+ of boost.

The specs:

Motor:
-H22A (closed-deck) block
-resleeved, 87.5mm bore
-Eagle forged rods
-Arias 9 compression pistons
-forged turbo ringlands
-all new bearings, gaskets....during rebuilt

-H22a4 head
-Skunk2 Titaium retainers
-Skunk2 valvesprings
-Skunk2 camgear
-bored throttle body (2.5mm)

Turbo setup
- Precision SC44 T3/T4 (.48 A/R Compressor/69 Wheel Trim Turbine)
-Compressor: Wheel Inducer: 2.290" Wheel Exducer: 2.950" Wheel Trim: 60 Inlet Size: 3" Outlet Size: 2" A/R: .48
-Turbine: Wheel Style: T31 Wheel Inducer: 2.559" Wheel Exducer: 2.121" Wheel Trim: 69
-Max HP: 565
-Tial 44mm wasegate
-HKS blowoff valve
-Greddy Boost Controller
-680CC Precision injectors
-AEM fuel pressure regulator
-AEM fuel rail
-AEM UEGO wideband
-Autometer Boost guage
-GM 3-bar
-SFP turbo manifold
-3-inch downpipe
-3-inch full exhaust
-highflo cat
-vibrant sleeper muffler

Suspension/Brakes/whees:
-Koni Yellows(purchase new, not seen winter)
-Ground Control (custom spring rates)
-Vibrant front strut bar
-ST rear sway bar
- Slotted/cross drilled (the ultimates purchased from TPC groupbuy)
-17" SSR styled wheels from YKW (lighweight)

Exterior/inteior
-Mugen Bodykit
-JSP CF hood
-Mugen Shift knob

Audio/video
-Pioneer Navigation/MP3...built-in dual din unit (sits flushly, looks great)
-MTX 4 ch amp
-MTX mono amp
-two 10-inch MTX subs
-Infinity speakers all around
-Stinger cap
(Audio setup + Navi costs over $3500)


Converting to obd1 is cheaper than getting a full standalone like AEM EMS.
Converting to a p28 would allow the tuner to adjust fuel/timing..etc... essential for a turbo/NA tuning.

The reason why people are going obd1 is essentially it is cheaper. A p28 can be picked up for less than $200, and it gives you endless tuning ability via Chrome or some other chip.

damn man...thats crazy, i just got my prelude outta the shop a month ago, and soo far i just have a custom paint job (black/blue), oem lip kit, lowered, carbon fiber hood, navi, intake and exhaust. the car is sweet... i couldnt be happier. but insurance jus sucks..lol too expensive...thats why im gonna sell it this summer.