Re: 1988 honda accord
 

<hansenfamily3@msn.com> wrote in message
news:1186809245.585946.229710@z24g2000prh.googlegr oups.com...
> On Aug 8, 9:33 pm, "Michael Pardee" <michaeltn...@cybertrails.com>
> wrote:
>> <hansenfami...@msn.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:1186632712.866497.97140@x40g2000prg.googlegro ups.com...>I am having
>> problems with my car. It seems to run good in the
>> > mornings untill I almost get to work. When you come to a stop light
>> > the car dies unless you keep your foot on the gas. I am thinking that
>> > it might be the carburator. I have found a carb. for the car that is
>> > new but it came off a 1986 or 87. Will it fit my car??? Also I
>> > thought that a vacuum line might be switched around. Could anyone
>> > help me out on finding a diagram or pictures of the vacuum line routes
>> > that are clear enough to understand. Any help would be greatly
>> > apreciated.
>>
>> > Thanks
>> > Cody
>>
>> Replacing the carburetor, especially with one that is not exactly the
>> same,
>> is likely to be the beginning of a journey into darkness. My first
>> thought
>> is for the automatic choke not "pulling off." Remove the intake so you
>> can
>> look into the top of the carburetor when the engine is cold, and you will
>> see a "butterfly" plate right at the top of the carburetor throat -
>> that's
>> the choke plate. It should be only a little open when cold and completely
>> open when warm. If it isn't open when warm you have a good place to
>> start.
>> You can use carburetor cleaner to clean the choke mechanism and to ensure
>> the idle passage isn't getting clogged but otherwise this doesn't sound
>> like
>> carb problems.
>>
>> A visual inspection of the vacuum hoses is not a bad idea. They often
>> crack
>> right at the ends where they connect to the nipples and the top suspects
>> are
>> the ones that go to the intake manifold or the base of the carburetor.
>>
>> You suggest a vacuum line may be in the wrong place. Did this problem
>> start
>> after something had been done to the car?
>>
>> Mike
>
> When I bought the car it idled high around 2000rpm. I noticed when
> you lefted up on the trottle it would idle down so I adjusted the
> trottle cable. About a month later, it was pretty hot outside and I
> drove it from school to the house and about 30 minutes later jumped in
> it to go to the store and it die at the stop sign and has done it ever
> since. I checked the choke and it seems to be working fine. It was
> not completely closed when it was cold and when the car warmed up it
> was all the way open. Any more Ideas. I noticed also today that the
> throttle cable was pretty sloppy so I adjusted it and I must have
> adjusted it to much, it reved up and held at 4500rpm. I readjusted it
> and noticed that when you pulled up on the trottle that it idealed
> down again.??? It has got me stumped. I was leaning toward the map
> sensor maybe?? Let me know what you think.
>
> Cody
>
>
That problem with the throttle is pretty specific to the throttle hanging
up, all right. You can try lubricating the throttle cable with graphite. I
like Lock-Ease (sp?), which is graphite in a kerosene type carrier. FWIW, I
haven't had a lot of success lubricating throttle cables. Maybe they have
worn inside to the extent that lubrication isn't enough. You may have to
replace it. We all love working on various pedals <8^O

That may be the only underlying problem. If the cable has been hanging up
for a long time, and I bet it has, the previous owner may have twiddled with
the idle setting to compensate and ended with the idle stop set for too low
a decent idle. A quick twist of the old screwdriver once the cable is freed
up should fix that. You can do that part now after lifting on the throttle
to free up the cable.

Mike

Re: 1988 honda accord
 

hansenfamily3@msn.com wrote:
> On Aug 8, 9:33 pm, "Michael Pardee" <michaeltn...@cybertrails.com>
> wrote:
>> <hansenfami...@msn.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:1186632712.866497.97140@x40g2000prg.googlegro ups.com...>I am having problems with my car. It seems to run good in the
>>> mornings untill I almost get to work. When you come to a stop light
>>> the car dies unless you keep your foot on the gas. I am thinking that
>>> it might be the carburator. I have found a carb. for the car that is
>>> new but it came off a 1986 or 87. Will it fit my car??? Also I
>>> thought that a vacuum line might be switched around. Could anyone
>>> help me out on finding a diagram or pictures of the vacuum line routes
>>> that are clear enough to understand. Any help would be greatly
>>> apreciated.
>>> Thanks
>>> Cody
>> Replacing the carburetor, especially with one that is not exactly the same,
>> is likely to be the beginning of a journey into darkness. My first thought
>> is for the automatic choke not "pulling off." Remove the intake so you can
>> look into the top of the carburetor when the engine is cold, and you will
>> see a "butterfly" plate right at the top of the carburetor throat - that's
>> the choke plate. It should be only a little open when cold and completely
>> open when warm. If it isn't open when warm you have a good place to start.
>> You can use carburetor cleaner to clean the choke mechanism and to ensure
>> the idle passage isn't getting clogged but otherwise this doesn't sound like
>> carb problems.
>>
>> A visual inspection of the vacuum hoses is not a bad idea. They often crack
>> right at the ends where they connect to the nipples and the top suspects are
>> the ones that go to the intake manifold or the base of the carburetor.
>>
>> You suggest a vacuum line may be in the wrong place. Did this problem start
>> after something had been done to the car?
>>
>> Mike
>
> When I bought the car it idled high around 2000rpm. I noticed when
> you lefted up on the trottle it would idle down so I adjusted the
> trottle cable. About a month later, it was pretty hot outside and I
> drove it from school to the house and about 30 minutes later jumped in
> it to go to the store and it die at the stop sign and has done it ever
> since. I checked the choke and it seems to be working fine. It was
> not completely closed when it was cold and when the car warmed up it
> was all the way open. Any more Ideas. I noticed also today that the
> throttle cable was pretty sloppy so I adjusted it and I must have
> adjusted it to much, it reved up and held at 4500rpm. I readjusted it
> and noticed that when you pulled up on the trottle that it idealed
> down again.??? It has got me stumped. I was leaning toward the map
> sensor maybe?? Let me know what you think.

First of all, the carbed versions don't have a MAP sensor (that I've
ever seen, anyway... they also typically don't have O2 sensors, although
there are exceptions).

I'd check for the cable sticking, make sure it's not getting frayed
anywhere, for that issue.

As for the stalling, if you've confirmed the choke is okay, then I'd
suspect a vacuum leak. You can often just listen for it (a sucking or
whistling sound), but if the leak is in a vacuum diaphragm (as happened
with my car once) it may be inaudible. One way to test for this is to
*gently* pinch off the vacuum lines one at a time (ie. pinch one, if
that has no effect, release it, and go on to the next), starting where
each one connects to the carb body or intake manifold, and see if the
idle smooths out. If you find one that affects it, then you can follow
it outward, and repeat the pinching after any branch points, until you
find the segment that's leaking.

Re: 1988 honda accord
 

hansenfamily3@msn.com wrote:
> On Aug 8, 9:33 pm, "Michael Pardee" <michaeltn...@cybertrails.com>
> wrote:
>> <hansenfami...@msn.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:1186632712.866497.97140@x40g2000prg.googlegro ups.com...>I am having problems with my car. It seems to run good in the
>>> mornings untill I almost get to work. When you come to a stop light
>>> the car dies unless you keep your foot on the gas. I am thinking that
>>> it might be the carburator. I have found a carb. for the car that is
>>> new but it came off a 1986 or 87. Will it fit my car??? Also I
>>> thought that a vacuum line might be switched around. Could anyone
>>> help me out on finding a diagram or pictures of the vacuum line routes
>>> that are clear enough to understand. Any help would be greatly
>>> apreciated.
>>> Thanks
>>> Cody
>> Replacing the carburetor, especially with one that is not exactly the same,
>> is likely to be the beginning of a journey into darkness. My first thought
>> is for the automatic choke not "pulling off." Remove the intake so you can
>> look into the top of the carburetor when the engine is cold, and you will
>> see a "butterfly" plate right at the top of the carburetor throat - that's
>> the choke plate. It should be only a little open when cold and completely
>> open when warm. If it isn't open when warm you have a good place to start.
>> You can use carburetor cleaner to clean the choke mechanism and to ensure
>> the idle passage isn't getting clogged but otherwise this doesn't sound like
>> carb problems.
>>
>> A visual inspection of the vacuum hoses is not a bad idea. They often crack
>> right at the ends where they connect to the nipples and the top suspects are
>> the ones that go to the intake manifold or the base of the carburetor.
>>
>> You suggest a vacuum line may be in the wrong place. Did this problem start
>> after something had been done to the car?
>>
>> Mike
>
> When I bought the car it idled high around 2000rpm. I noticed when
> you lefted up on the trottle it would idle down so I adjusted the
> trottle cable. About a month later, it was pretty hot outside and I
> drove it from school to the house and about 30 minutes later jumped in
> it to go to the store and it die at the stop sign and has done it ever
> since. I checked the choke and it seems to be working fine. It was
> not completely closed when it was cold and when the car warmed up it
> was all the way open. Any more Ideas. I noticed also today that the
> throttle cable was pretty sloppy so I adjusted it and I must have
> adjusted it to much, it reved up and held at 4500rpm. I readjusted it
> and noticed that when you pulled up on the trottle that it idealed
> down again.??? It has got me stumped. I was leaning toward the map
> sensor maybe?? Let me know what you think.

First of all, the carbed versions don't have a MAP sensor (that I've
ever seen, anyway... they also typically don't have O2 sensors, although
there are exceptions).

I'd check for the cable sticking, make sure it's not getting frayed
anywhere, for that issue.

As for the stalling, if you've confirmed the choke is okay, then I'd
suspect a vacuum leak. You can often just listen for it (a sucking or
whistling sound), but if the leak is in a vacuum diaphragm (as happened
with my car once) it may be inaudible. One way to test for this is to
*gently* pinch off the vacuum lines one at a time (ie. pinch one, if
that has no effect, release it, and go on to the next), starting where
each one connects to the carb body or intake manifold, and see if the
idle smooths out. If you find one that affects it, then you can follow
it outward, and repeat the pinching after any branch points, until you
find the segment that's leaking.

Re: 1988 honda accord
 

hansenfamily3@msn.com wrote:
> On Aug 8, 9:33 pm, "Michael Pardee" <michaeltn...@cybertrails.com>
> wrote:
>> <hansenfami...@msn.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:1186632712.866497.97140@x40g2000prg.googlegro ups.com...>I am having problems with my car. It seems to run good in the
>>> mornings untill I almost get to work. When you come to a stop light
>>> the car dies unless you keep your foot on the gas. I am thinking that
>>> it might be the carburator. I have found a carb. for the car that is
>>> new but it came off a 1986 or 87. Will it fit my car??? Also I
>>> thought that a vacuum line might be switched around. Could anyone
>>> help me out on finding a diagram or pictures of the vacuum line routes
>>> that are clear enough to understand. Any help would be greatly
>>> apreciated.
>>> Thanks
>>> Cody
>> Replacing the carburetor, especially with one that is not exactly the same,
>> is likely to be the beginning of a journey into darkness. My first thought
>> is for the automatic choke not "pulling off." Remove the intake so you can
>> look into the top of the carburetor when the engine is cold, and you will
>> see a "butterfly" plate right at the top of the carburetor throat - that's
>> the choke plate. It should be only a little open when cold and completely
>> open when warm. If it isn't open when warm you have a good place to start.
>> You can use carburetor cleaner to clean the choke mechanism and to ensure
>> the idle passage isn't getting clogged but otherwise this doesn't sound like
>> carb problems.
>>
>> A visual inspection of the vacuum hoses is not a bad idea. They often crack
>> right at the ends where they connect to the nipples and the top suspects are
>> the ones that go to the intake manifold or the base of the carburetor.
>>
>> You suggest a vacuum line may be in the wrong place. Did this problem start
>> after something had been done to the car?
>>
>> Mike
>
> When I bought the car it idled high around 2000rpm. I noticed when
> you lefted up on the trottle it would idle down so I adjusted the
> trottle cable. About a month later, it was pretty hot outside and I
> drove it from school to the house and about 30 minutes later jumped in
> it to go to the store and it die at the stop sign and has done it ever
> since. I checked the choke and it seems to be working fine. It was
> not completely closed when it was cold and when the car warmed up it
> was all the way open. Any more Ideas. I noticed also today that the
> throttle cable was pretty sloppy so I adjusted it and I must have
> adjusted it to much, it reved up and held at 4500rpm. I readjusted it
> and noticed that when you pulled up on the trottle that it idealed
> down again.??? It has got me stumped. I was leaning toward the map
> sensor maybe?? Let me know what you think.

First of all, the carbed versions don't have a MAP sensor (that I've
ever seen, anyway... they also typically don't have O2 sensors, although
there are exceptions).

I'd check for the cable sticking, make sure it's not getting frayed
anywhere, for that issue.

As for the stalling, if you've confirmed the choke is okay, then I'd
suspect a vacuum leak. You can often just listen for it (a sucking or
whistling sound), but if the leak is in a vacuum diaphragm (as happened
with my car once) it may be inaudible. One way to test for this is to
*gently* pinch off the vacuum lines one at a time (ie. pinch one, if
that has no effect, release it, and go on to the next), starting where
each one connects to the carb body or intake manifold, and see if the
idle smooths out. If you find one that affects it, then you can follow
it outward, and repeat the pinching after any branch points, until you
find the segment that's leaking.