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Re: 1989 Accord revs and shuts off **Update**
Eightupman wrote:
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message > news:Xns986854A0CBEEjyanikkuanet@129.250.170.84... >> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in >> news:VUT%g.12303$2h.8874@tornado.southeast.rr.com: >> >>> Ok, went out to toy with it yesterday. The sumbich started up and ran >>> FINE.....until I took it around the block. >>> >>> I got some history on the car from previous owner. Lets see if some >>> of this all makes sense. The car did the same thing BEFORE the timing >>> belt change...long before I even got under the hood. He said it (the >>> stalling problem) would last a couple days and then quit for a while. >>> While talking to him, (and after reading some suggestions) I asked if >>> he noticed if the car would do it at a certain fuel level (ie when the >>> tank is close to empty) He said that he did not pay attention to that. >>> >>> Some additional info....I can DRIVE the car all day long...up and down >>> the gears as long as I do not have to stop or let off the pedal. >>> >>> So that sort of eliminates some things logically I would think. If it >>> was a fuel pressure issue, I would think it would cut off any time it >>> liked. If it was a H_U_G_E vacuum issue it would not have run >>> mysteriously for several days at a time. >>> >>> So my thought is now...EGR valve...if it is allowing exhaust in at >>> idle, that would surely shut it down. The plunger is working properly >>> ON the car, but that does not mean that it is seated properly....will >>> check that tomorrow. >>> >>> Thanks to all and keep the ideas coming....I AM going to figure this >>> one out....sumbich.....LOL >>> >>> John >>> >>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in message >>> news:Tp8%g.4704$_u4.2870@tornado.southeast.rr.com. .. >>>> 1989 Honda Accord 5 speed, 2.0 >>>> >>>> Car will start and run for about 5 seconds at 3000 RPM and then shut >>>> down. It will do this EVERY time I fire up the car. The engine seems >>>> to sound fine. >>>> >>>> Checked for vacuum leaks and the like, but can't figure this one >>>> out.... >>>> >>>> >>>> Any thoughts? >>>> >>>> John >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >> you could eliminate the main relay as a problem by taking it out and >> resoldering it,www.tegger.com has the instructions. It doesn't take very >> long to do. >> >> check the grounds in the engine compartment.Maybe they are corroded and >> not >> making good contact. >> >> Do you think this might have been a "flood car",one that's been under >> water >> at one time? >> >> Bad throttle position sensor? Maybe a bad segment(wornout) on the >> sensor,at >> the end near idle,so if you keep the throttle above that point,the motor >> runs,but when the throttle moves below the bad segment,it has no signal(or >> wrong signal) to the ECU;thus the motor dies. Info in my Haynes manual for >> my 94 Integra says you can use a voltmeter to check the TPS,output V runs >> from 0.5V to 4.5V,with an input supply(reference) of 5V. It seems to be a >> potentiometer(variable resistor),that's why it sounds like a bad segment >> at >> the idle end of the pot. The output voltage should be a smooth increase >> from low to high,no jumping. >> >> >> -- >> Jim Yanik >> jyanik >> at >> kua.net > > Sounds like a sound theory. except the fact that I am in the electronics > profession, and if the pot were bad...it would be bad all the time, and not > mysteriously run/idle fine when it wants too. Will check it anyway. > > John > > Sounds like a bad fuel pump to me. I had one on a 1984 Accord that worked fine most of the time, but would just stop pumping every now and then. |
Re: 1989 Accord revs and shuts off **Update**
Eightupman wrote:
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message > news:Xns986854A0CBEEjyanikkuanet@129.250.170.84... >> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in >> news:VUT%g.12303$2h.8874@tornado.southeast.rr.com: >> >>> Ok, went out to toy with it yesterday. The sumbich started up and ran >>> FINE.....until I took it around the block. >>> >>> I got some history on the car from previous owner. Lets see if some >>> of this all makes sense. The car did the same thing BEFORE the timing >>> belt change...long before I even got under the hood. He said it (the >>> stalling problem) would last a couple days and then quit for a while. >>> While talking to him, (and after reading some suggestions) I asked if >>> he noticed if the car would do it at a certain fuel level (ie when the >>> tank is close to empty) He said that he did not pay attention to that. >>> >>> Some additional info....I can DRIVE the car all day long...up and down >>> the gears as long as I do not have to stop or let off the pedal. >>> >>> So that sort of eliminates some things logically I would think. If it >>> was a fuel pressure issue, I would think it would cut off any time it >>> liked. If it was a H_U_G_E vacuum issue it would not have run >>> mysteriously for several days at a time. >>> >>> So my thought is now...EGR valve...if it is allowing exhaust in at >>> idle, that would surely shut it down. The plunger is working properly >>> ON the car, but that does not mean that it is seated properly....will >>> check that tomorrow. >>> >>> Thanks to all and keep the ideas coming....I AM going to figure this >>> one out....sumbich.....LOL >>> >>> John >>> >>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in message >>> news:Tp8%g.4704$_u4.2870@tornado.southeast.rr.com. .. >>>> 1989 Honda Accord 5 speed, 2.0 >>>> >>>> Car will start and run for about 5 seconds at 3000 RPM and then shut >>>> down. It will do this EVERY time I fire up the car. The engine seems >>>> to sound fine. >>>> >>>> Checked for vacuum leaks and the like, but can't figure this one >>>> out.... >>>> >>>> >>>> Any thoughts? >>>> >>>> John >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >> you could eliminate the main relay as a problem by taking it out and >> resoldering it,www.tegger.com has the instructions. It doesn't take very >> long to do. >> >> check the grounds in the engine compartment.Maybe they are corroded and >> not >> making good contact. >> >> Do you think this might have been a "flood car",one that's been under >> water >> at one time? >> >> Bad throttle position sensor? Maybe a bad segment(wornout) on the >> sensor,at >> the end near idle,so if you keep the throttle above that point,the motor >> runs,but when the throttle moves below the bad segment,it has no signal(or >> wrong signal) to the ECU;thus the motor dies. Info in my Haynes manual for >> my 94 Integra says you can use a voltmeter to check the TPS,output V runs >> from 0.5V to 4.5V,with an input supply(reference) of 5V. It seems to be a >> potentiometer(variable resistor),that's why it sounds like a bad segment >> at >> the idle end of the pot. The output voltage should be a smooth increase >> from low to high,no jumping. >> >> >> -- >> Jim Yanik >> jyanik >> at >> kua.net > > Sounds like a sound theory. except the fact that I am in the electronics > profession, and if the pot were bad...it would be bad all the time, and not > mysteriously run/idle fine when it wants too. Will check it anyway. > > John > > Sounds like a bad fuel pump to me. I had one on a 1984 Accord that worked fine most of the time, but would just stop pumping every now and then. |
Re: 1989 Accord revs and shuts off **Update**
Eightupman wrote:
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message > news:Xns986854A0CBEEjyanikkuanet@129.250.170.84... >> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in >> news:VUT%g.12303$2h.8874@tornado.southeast.rr.com: >> >>> Ok, went out to toy with it yesterday. The sumbich started up and ran >>> FINE.....until I took it around the block. >>> >>> I got some history on the car from previous owner. Lets see if some >>> of this all makes sense. The car did the same thing BEFORE the timing >>> belt change...long before I even got under the hood. He said it (the >>> stalling problem) would last a couple days and then quit for a while. >>> While talking to him, (and after reading some suggestions) I asked if >>> he noticed if the car would do it at a certain fuel level (ie when the >>> tank is close to empty) He said that he did not pay attention to that. >>> >>> Some additional info....I can DRIVE the car all day long...up and down >>> the gears as long as I do not have to stop or let off the pedal. >>> >>> So that sort of eliminates some things logically I would think. If it >>> was a fuel pressure issue, I would think it would cut off any time it >>> liked. If it was a H_U_G_E vacuum issue it would not have run >>> mysteriously for several days at a time. >>> >>> So my thought is now...EGR valve...if it is allowing exhaust in at >>> idle, that would surely shut it down. The plunger is working properly >>> ON the car, but that does not mean that it is seated properly....will >>> check that tomorrow. >>> >>> Thanks to all and keep the ideas coming....I AM going to figure this >>> one out....sumbich.....LOL >>> >>> John >>> >>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in message >>> news:Tp8%g.4704$_u4.2870@tornado.southeast.rr.com. .. >>>> 1989 Honda Accord 5 speed, 2.0 >>>> >>>> Car will start and run for about 5 seconds at 3000 RPM and then shut >>>> down. It will do this EVERY time I fire up the car. The engine seems >>>> to sound fine. >>>> >>>> Checked for vacuum leaks and the like, but can't figure this one >>>> out.... >>>> >>>> >>>> Any thoughts? >>>> >>>> John >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >> you could eliminate the main relay as a problem by taking it out and >> resoldering it,www.tegger.com has the instructions. It doesn't take very >> long to do. >> >> check the grounds in the engine compartment.Maybe they are corroded and >> not >> making good contact. >> >> Do you think this might have been a "flood car",one that's been under >> water >> at one time? >> >> Bad throttle position sensor? Maybe a bad segment(wornout) on the >> sensor,at >> the end near idle,so if you keep the throttle above that point,the motor >> runs,but when the throttle moves below the bad segment,it has no signal(or >> wrong signal) to the ECU;thus the motor dies. Info in my Haynes manual for >> my 94 Integra says you can use a voltmeter to check the TPS,output V runs >> from 0.5V to 4.5V,with an input supply(reference) of 5V. It seems to be a >> potentiometer(variable resistor),that's why it sounds like a bad segment >> at >> the idle end of the pot. The output voltage should be a smooth increase >> from low to high,no jumping. >> >> >> -- >> Jim Yanik >> jyanik >> at >> kua.net > > Sounds like a sound theory. except the fact that I am in the electronics > profession, and if the pot were bad...it would be bad all the time, and not > mysteriously run/idle fine when it wants too. Will check it anyway. > > John > > Sounds like a bad fuel pump to me. I had one on a 1984 Accord that worked fine most of the time, but would just stop pumping every now and then. |
Re: 1989 Accord revs and shuts off **Update**
Eightupman wrote:
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message > news:Xns986854A0CBEEjyanikkuanet@129.250.170.84... >> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in >> news:VUT%g.12303$2h.8874@tornado.southeast.rr.com: >> >>> Ok, went out to toy with it yesterday. The sumbich started up and ran >>> FINE.....until I took it around the block. >>> >>> I got some history on the car from previous owner. Lets see if some >>> of this all makes sense. The car did the same thing BEFORE the timing >>> belt change...long before I even got under the hood. He said it (the >>> stalling problem) would last a couple days and then quit for a while. >>> While talking to him, (and after reading some suggestions) I asked if >>> he noticed if the car would do it at a certain fuel level (ie when the >>> tank is close to empty) He said that he did not pay attention to that. >>> >>> Some additional info....I can DRIVE the car all day long...up and down >>> the gears as long as I do not have to stop or let off the pedal. >>> >>> So that sort of eliminates some things logically I would think. If it >>> was a fuel pressure issue, I would think it would cut off any time it >>> liked. If it was a H_U_G_E vacuum issue it would not have run >>> mysteriously for several days at a time. >>> >>> So my thought is now...EGR valve...if it is allowing exhaust in at >>> idle, that would surely shut it down. The plunger is working properly >>> ON the car, but that does not mean that it is seated properly....will >>> check that tomorrow. >>> >>> Thanks to all and keep the ideas coming....I AM going to figure this >>> one out....sumbich.....LOL >>> >>> John >>> >>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in message >>> news:Tp8%g.4704$_u4.2870@tornado.southeast.rr.com. .. >>>> 1989 Honda Accord 5 speed, 2.0 >>>> >>>> Car will start and run for about 5 seconds at 3000 RPM and then shut >>>> down. It will do this EVERY time I fire up the car. The engine seems >>>> to sound fine. >>>> >>>> Checked for vacuum leaks and the like, but can't figure this one >>>> out.... >>>> >>>> >>>> Any thoughts? >>>> >>>> John >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >> you could eliminate the main relay as a problem by taking it out and >> resoldering it,www.tegger.com has the instructions. It doesn't take very >> long to do. >> >> check the grounds in the engine compartment.Maybe they are corroded and >> not >> making good contact. >> >> Do you think this might have been a "flood car",one that's been under >> water >> at one time? >> >> Bad throttle position sensor? Maybe a bad segment(wornout) on the >> sensor,at >> the end near idle,so if you keep the throttle above that point,the motor >> runs,but when the throttle moves below the bad segment,it has no signal(or >> wrong signal) to the ECU;thus the motor dies. Info in my Haynes manual for >> my 94 Integra says you can use a voltmeter to check the TPS,output V runs >> from 0.5V to 4.5V,with an input supply(reference) of 5V. It seems to be a >> potentiometer(variable resistor),that's why it sounds like a bad segment >> at >> the idle end of the pot. The output voltage should be a smooth increase >> from low to high,no jumping. >> >> >> -- >> Jim Yanik >> jyanik >> at >> kua.net > > Sounds like a sound theory. except the fact that I am in the electronics > profession, and if the pot were bad...it would be bad all the time, and not > mysteriously run/idle fine when it wants too. Will check it anyway. > > John > > Sounds like a bad fuel pump to me. I had one on a 1984 Accord that worked fine most of the time, but would just stop pumping every now and then. |
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