|
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
Just had this same problem on '91 Accord LX. Igniter and Coil was the
problem. Expensive parts! G-Man "Phil" <p.mentz@comcast.net> wrote in message news:32Xob.62459$ao4.166508@attbi_s51... > My 1991 Accord stopped running, without warning. I towed it home and > determined the timing belt is not broken, but that there is no spark. How > can I determine what the cause of this problem is? The distributor rotor > turns, and there is no evidence of distributor bearing failure (no dust). I > understand the igniter may be a problem, but that there may be no way to > test it without just buying one, which is not returnable. Also, does the > rotor just pull off? It does not want to come off. > > Thank you, > > - Phil > > |
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
How expensive? May just give the car away if too pricey or too much hassle.
- Phil "G-Man" <somebody@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:vqcq45eogqfsb2@news.supernews.com... > Just had this same problem on '91 Accord LX. Igniter and Coil was the > problem. Expensive parts! > > G-Man > > > "Phil" <p.mentz@comcast.net> wrote in message > news:32Xob.62459$ao4.166508@attbi_s51... > > My 1991 Accord stopped running, without warning. I towed it home and > > determined the timing belt is not broken, but that there is no spark. How > > can I determine what the cause of this problem is? The distributor rotor > > turns, and there is no evidence of distributor bearing failure (no dust). > I > > understand the igniter may be a problem, but that there may be no way to > > test it without just buying one, which is not returnable. Also, does the > > rotor just pull off? It does not want to come off. > > > > Thank you, > > > > - Phil > > > > > > |
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
How expensive? May just give the car away if too pricey or too much hassle.
- Phil "G-Man" <somebody@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:vqcq45eogqfsb2@news.supernews.com... > Just had this same problem on '91 Accord LX. Igniter and Coil was the > problem. Expensive parts! > > G-Man > > > "Phil" <p.mentz@comcast.net> wrote in message > news:32Xob.62459$ao4.166508@attbi_s51... > > My 1991 Accord stopped running, without warning. I towed it home and > > determined the timing belt is not broken, but that there is no spark. How > > can I determine what the cause of this problem is? The distributor rotor > > turns, and there is no evidence of distributor bearing failure (no dust). > I > > understand the igniter may be a problem, but that there may be no way to > > test it without just buying one, which is not returnable. Also, does the > > rotor just pull off? It does not want to come off. > > > > Thank you, > > > > - Phil > > > > > > |
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
How expensive? May just give the car away if too pricey or too much hassle.
- Phil "G-Man" <somebody@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:vqcq45eogqfsb2@news.supernews.com... > Just had this same problem on '91 Accord LX. Igniter and Coil was the > problem. Expensive parts! > > G-Man > > > "Phil" <p.mentz@comcast.net> wrote in message > news:32Xob.62459$ao4.166508@attbi_s51... > > My 1991 Accord stopped running, without warning. I towed it home and > > determined the timing belt is not broken, but that there is no spark. How > > can I determine what the cause of this problem is? The distributor rotor > > turns, and there is no evidence of distributor bearing failure (no dust). > I > > understand the igniter may be a problem, but that there may be no way to > > test it without just buying one, which is not returnable. Also, does the > > rotor just pull off? It does not want to come off. > > > > Thank you, > > > > - Phil > > > > > > |
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
How expensive? May just give the car away if too pricey or too much hassle.
- Phil "G-Man" <somebody@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:vqcq45eogqfsb2@news.supernews.com... > Just had this same problem on '91 Accord LX. Igniter and Coil was the > problem. Expensive parts! > > G-Man > > > "Phil" <p.mentz@comcast.net> wrote in message > news:32Xob.62459$ao4.166508@attbi_s51... > > My 1991 Accord stopped running, without warning. I towed it home and > > determined the timing belt is not broken, but that there is no spark. How > > can I determine what the cause of this problem is? The distributor rotor > > turns, and there is no evidence of distributor bearing failure (no dust). > I > > understand the igniter may be a problem, but that there may be no way to > > test it without just buying one, which is not returnable. Also, does the > > rotor just pull off? It does not want to come off. > > > > Thank you, > > > > - Phil > > > > > > |
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
hi,
i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i have no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test for the "igniter"? is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires? i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u know about that? hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!! thanks and best wishes, michael |
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
hi,
i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i have no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test for the "igniter"? is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires? i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u know about that? hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!! thanks and best wishes, michael |
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
Hi Mike
I am doing something very similar on an Integra, which I am sure is very similar to an Accord. Yes, the ignitor is a small module with four connections on it. First determine if you have 12V on this subsystem by taking the cap off. Turn the car to the 'on' position (where all your dash lights are on but don't start the car. Don't leave it in this position too long; a couple of minutes won't hurt anything, though). Probe on the coil primary (that thing that looks like it has a chimney - the screw contacts are primary) - you will see 12V if power is getting to the distributor. You will also see close to 12V on your secondary, depending on the type of voltmeter you use. If you see 12V on your primary and absolutely nothing on secondary, your coil is probably bad. If you don't see 12V anywhere, I'd check the starter switch and trace it from there. If you see 12V on the secondary, your coil could still be bad, but it is far less likely. (It could have cracks, as was the case with mine. The thing comes off easily, so you may want to inspect it.) To check the ignitor (ICM), you will need to have access to a scope and probe the input (i.e. 12 V or so -- not the secondary of the coil as that will blow your scope up) to the module and start the car. If you see pulses, it is most likely the ignitor. I bought a new aftermarket ignitor for under $70 at carpartsamerica.com -- OEM retail was $205 so it pays to shop around. Hope this is of use to you. Remco "toasty" <mikee@internode.on.net> wrote in message news:d8ea66c4ad25eeeb61ea2911c56251f7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... > hi, > i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in > australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i have > no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test for > the "igniter"? > is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires? > i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u > know about that? > > hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!! > > thanks and best wishes, > > michael > |
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
Hi Mike
I am doing something very similar on an Integra, which I am sure is very similar to an Accord. Yes, the ignitor is a small module with four connections on it. First determine if you have 12V on this subsystem by taking the cap off. Turn the car to the 'on' position (where all your dash lights are on but don't start the car. Don't leave it in this position too long; a couple of minutes won't hurt anything, though). Probe on the coil primary (that thing that looks like it has a chimney - the screw contacts are primary) - you will see 12V if power is getting to the distributor. You will also see close to 12V on your secondary, depending on the type of voltmeter you use. If you see 12V on your primary and absolutely nothing on secondary, your coil is probably bad. If you don't see 12V anywhere, I'd check the starter switch and trace it from there. If you see 12V on the secondary, your coil could still be bad, but it is far less likely. (It could have cracks, as was the case with mine. The thing comes off easily, so you may want to inspect it.) To check the ignitor (ICM), you will need to have access to a scope and probe the input (i.e. 12 V or so -- not the secondary of the coil as that will blow your scope up) to the module and start the car. If you see pulses, it is most likely the ignitor. I bought a new aftermarket ignitor for under $70 at carpartsamerica.com -- OEM retail was $205 so it pays to shop around. Hope this is of use to you. Remco "toasty" <mikee@internode.on.net> wrote in message news:d8ea66c4ad25eeeb61ea2911c56251f7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... > hi, > i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in > australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i have > no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test for > the "igniter"? > is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires? > i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u > know about that? > > hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!! > > thanks and best wishes, > > michael > |
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
"RemcoW" <whybcuz@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:wufhd.614$6z2.443313@news4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net. .. > Hi Mike > > I am doing something very similar on an Integra, which I am sure is very > similar to an Accord. > > Yes, the ignitor is a small module with four connections on it. First > determine if you have 12V on this subsystem by taking the cap off. Turn > the > car to the 'on' position (where all your dash lights are on but don't > start > the car. Don't leave it in this position too long; a couple of minutes > won't > hurt anything, though). > Probe on the coil primary (that thing that looks like it has a chimney - > the > screw contacts are primary) - you will see 12V if power is getting to the > distributor. You will also see close to 12V on your secondary, depending > on > the type of voltmeter you use. > If you see 12V on your primary and absolutely nothing on secondary, your > coil is probably bad. If you don't see 12V anywhere, I'd check the starter > switch and trace it from there. > > If you see 12V on the secondary, your coil could still be bad, but it is > far > less likely. > (It could have cracks, as was the case with mine. The thing comes off > easily, so you may want to inspect it.) > To check the ignitor (ICM), you will need to have access to a scope and > probe the input (i.e. 12 V or so -- not the secondary of the coil as that > will blow your scope up) to the module and start the car. If you see > pulses, > it is most likely the ignitor. > I bought a new aftermarket ignitor for under $70 at carpartsamerica.com -- > OEM retail was $205 so it pays to shop around. > > Hope this is of use to you. > Remco > With the scope I could see the input on mine was toggling from ground to about 10 or 12 volts, while the output (on the coil) stayed at battery voltage without a trace of toggling. Your test procedure is right on. A voltmeter may catch enough activity for a go/no-go test, but I'm not sure. If it acts bad, it probably is. If the voltage pulses from about 12V to about ground on the coil, without a multi-hundred volt positive spike when the voltage is released from ground, the coil is more likely bad. The 2 round head screws that hold the ignitor (on the outside of the distributor) can be very tight. If you aren't going to go to the trouble of removing the distributor (I don't blame you!) you may want to break the screws loose with a pair of locking pliers (vise-grips) to avoid stripping the heads. Those wires pull off the module, and that terminal nearest the front is *supposed* to be bent over a bit. > "toasty" <mikee@internode.on.net> wrote in message > news:d8ea66c4ad25eeeb61ea2911c56251f7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... >> hi, >> i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in >> australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i >> have >> no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test >> for >> the "igniter"? >> is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires? >> i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u >> know about that? >> >> hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!! >> >> thanks and best wishes, >> >> michael >> > > |
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
"RemcoW" <whybcuz@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:wufhd.614$6z2.443313@news4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net. .. > Hi Mike > > I am doing something very similar on an Integra, which I am sure is very > similar to an Accord. > > Yes, the ignitor is a small module with four connections on it. First > determine if you have 12V on this subsystem by taking the cap off. Turn > the > car to the 'on' position (where all your dash lights are on but don't > start > the car. Don't leave it in this position too long; a couple of minutes > won't > hurt anything, though). > Probe on the coil primary (that thing that looks like it has a chimney - > the > screw contacts are primary) - you will see 12V if power is getting to the > distributor. You will also see close to 12V on your secondary, depending > on > the type of voltmeter you use. > If you see 12V on your primary and absolutely nothing on secondary, your > coil is probably bad. If you don't see 12V anywhere, I'd check the starter > switch and trace it from there. > > If you see 12V on the secondary, your coil could still be bad, but it is > far > less likely. > (It could have cracks, as was the case with mine. The thing comes off > easily, so you may want to inspect it.) > To check the ignitor (ICM), you will need to have access to a scope and > probe the input (i.e. 12 V or so -- not the secondary of the coil as that > will blow your scope up) to the module and start the car. If you see > pulses, > it is most likely the ignitor. > I bought a new aftermarket ignitor for under $70 at carpartsamerica.com -- > OEM retail was $205 so it pays to shop around. > > Hope this is of use to you. > Remco > With the scope I could see the input on mine was toggling from ground to about 10 or 12 volts, while the output (on the coil) stayed at battery voltage without a trace of toggling. Your test procedure is right on. A voltmeter may catch enough activity for a go/no-go test, but I'm not sure. If it acts bad, it probably is. If the voltage pulses from about 12V to about ground on the coil, without a multi-hundred volt positive spike when the voltage is released from ground, the coil is more likely bad. The 2 round head screws that hold the ignitor (on the outside of the distributor) can be very tight. If you aren't going to go to the trouble of removing the distributor (I don't blame you!) you may want to break the screws loose with a pair of locking pliers (vise-grips) to avoid stripping the heads. Those wires pull off the module, and that terminal nearest the front is *supposed* to be bent over a bit. > "toasty" <mikee@internode.on.net> wrote in message > news:d8ea66c4ad25eeeb61ea2911c56251f7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... >> hi, >> i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in >> australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i >> have >> no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test >> for >> the "igniter"? >> is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires? >> i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u >> know about that? >> >> hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!! >> >> thanks and best wishes, >> >> michael >> > > |
i have that distributor 30 bucks
i have a 90 distributor and a 92 distributor with the ignition coil and plug
wires. "toasty" <mikee@internode.on.net> wrote in message news:d8ea66c4ad25eeeb61ea2911c56251f7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... > hi, > i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in > australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i have > no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test for > the "igniter"? > is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires? > i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u > know about that? > > hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!! > > thanks and best wishes, > > michael > |
i have that distributor 30 bucks
i have a 90 distributor and a 92 distributor with the ignition coil and plug
wires. "toasty" <mikee@internode.on.net> wrote in message news:d8ea66c4ad25eeeb61ea2911c56251f7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... > hi, > i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in > australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i have > no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test for > the "igniter"? > is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires? > i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u > know about that? > > hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!! > > thanks and best wishes, > > michael > |
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
and now the easy way.... pull the dist cap off. now find the wire on
the ignitor that goes to the coil negative terminal and take it off. put a test light on the positive pole of the battery and connect the ground lead to the ignitor wire just removed. crank the engine, if it flashes the ignitor is good. all the ignitor does is make and break the ground on the primary side of the coil. i've been doing this for years, learned it at honda school. Chip |
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
and now the easy way.... pull the dist cap off. now find the wire on
the ignitor that goes to the coil negative terminal and take it off. put a test light on the positive pole of the battery and connect the ground lead to the ignitor wire just removed. crank the engine, if it flashes the ignitor is good. all the ignitor does is make and break the ground on the primary side of the coil. i've been doing this for years, learned it at honda school. Chip |
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
Cool trick - thanks, Chip!
I'll have to remember that one for next time. With your honda experience, you should think about putting ins-and-outs like that on a site someplace - I am sure all back yard mechanics would appreciate it. Remco chip@chipanddebby.com (Chip Stein) wrote in message news:<5ddcea74.0411011844.667a67e2@posting.google. com>... > and now the easy way.... pull the dist cap off. now find the wire on > the ignitor that goes to the coil negative terminal and take it off. > put a test light on the positive pole of the battery and connect the > ground lead to the ignitor wire just removed. crank the engine, if it > flashes the ignitor is good. > all the ignitor does is make and break the ground on the primary > side of the coil. > i've been doing this for years, learned it at honda school. > Chip |
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
Cool trick - thanks, Chip!
I'll have to remember that one for next time. With your honda experience, you should think about putting ins-and-outs like that on a site someplace - I am sure all back yard mechanics would appreciate it. Remco chip@chipanddebby.com (Chip Stein) wrote in message news:<5ddcea74.0411011844.667a67e2@posting.google. com>... > and now the easy way.... pull the dist cap off. now find the wire on > the ignitor that goes to the coil negative terminal and take it off. > put a test light on the positive pole of the battery and connect the > ground lead to the ignitor wire just removed. crank the engine, if it > flashes the ignitor is good. > all the ignitor does is make and break the ground on the primary > side of the coil. > i've been doing this for years, learned it at honda school. > Chip |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:13 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands