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1995 Honda Passport - Brakes question
I am in the process of repacking my front wheel bearings on my 1995 Honda
Passport, 4WD. What prompted me to do this is, one, I am a new owner of this vehicle and am not sure when this had been done before. The car has 104K miles on it. When I jacked the car up off the ground, in an attempt to turn the wheel, it wouldn't turn even a 1/4 of a turn with moderate pressure. This concerned me. The 4WD is not engaged at this time. So I figured I would re-pack the bearings. When I removed the caliper from the rotor, the wheel turns fine now. Freewheels great. Rotor looks a little "off"; so those are off to be turned or replaced altogether. Brake pads looked fine. I am now wondering if the piston itself inside the caliper is just either sticking or is no good. What is the going cost of new reloaded calipers as opposed to having them rebuilt. Which I will probably end up doing myself at this point. Just wanted to know if someone had a better way of going about this in terms of what the problem might be with the calipers obviously hitting against the rotor too tightly. Thanks. |
Re: 1995 Honda Passport - Brakes question
On Tue, 2 Sep 2003 11:53:38 -0700, ajpdla <ajpdla@pacifier.com> wrote: -snip- > When I removed the caliper from the rotor, the wheel turns fine now. > Freewheels great. Rotor looks a little "off"; so those are off to be > turned > or replaced altogether. Brake pads looked fine. -snip- > I am now wondering if the piston itself inside the caliper is just either > sticking or is no good. You may be slightly over-reacting. Every vehicle's brakes that I have ever replaced have had the exact same "problem" it's called pnuematic pressure. It builds up when a vehicle is off, and there's no decent flow of brake fluid, and the fluid just builds up at the lowest point, thanks to gravity. The lowest point happens to be the brake calipers. (This is why a running vehicle is easier to push in neutral than a stopped vehicle is.) Get yourself a C-clamp to push the pistons back in, and then see how easy it is to turn with the calipers on. Now, to see if the calipers are sticking, try to slide them by hand with them off the rotor.. back and forth, if they dont move freely, then the calipers should be replaced, if they do, and the piston pops back out after pushing it in with the C-clamp, then the pistons are bad.. if the calipers move, and the piston stays where you pushed it to, then nothing is wrong. Chuck Burns |
Re: 1995 Honda Passport - Brakes question
On Tue, 2 Sep 2003 11:53:38 -0700, ajpdla <ajpdla@pacifier.com> wrote: -snip- > When I removed the caliper from the rotor, the wheel turns fine now. > Freewheels great. Rotor looks a little "off"; so those are off to be > turned > or replaced altogether. Brake pads looked fine. -snip- > I am now wondering if the piston itself inside the caliper is just either > sticking or is no good. You may be slightly over-reacting. Every vehicle's brakes that I have ever replaced have had the exact same "problem" it's called pnuematic pressure. It builds up when a vehicle is off, and there's no decent flow of brake fluid, and the fluid just builds up at the lowest point, thanks to gravity. The lowest point happens to be the brake calipers. (This is why a running vehicle is easier to push in neutral than a stopped vehicle is.) Get yourself a C-clamp to push the pistons back in, and then see how easy it is to turn with the calipers on. Now, to see if the calipers are sticking, try to slide them by hand with them off the rotor.. back and forth, if they dont move freely, then the calipers should be replaced, if they do, and the piston pops back out after pushing it in with the C-clamp, then the pistons are bad.. if the calipers move, and the piston stays where you pushed it to, then nothing is wrong. Chuck Burns |
Re: 1995 Honda Passport - Brakes question
Thanks for the advice/procedure. I agree. I think I might be
over-reacting, especially due to the fact that this car has been sitting in my driveway for the past almost two months. It's my first "dive" into the realm of self-mechanics -- and DEFINITELY the last. But I am having fun. I've spent the past few weeks cleaning out both sides of the heads, fixing various problems along the way. This car was definitely neglected over the past few years regarding oil changes, et cetera. The current work has now included a total replacement of rocker arm shafts for both sides, the completion of cleaning, re-awaking stuck hydraulic lifters, and replacement of all oil seals, timing belt, thermostat, all belts, et cetera. It's been fun. The wife's ready to have her car back now, though. I've been killing time this week on the wheel bearings and brakes (something I am a bit more used to doing) whilst waiting for my new rocker shafts to arrive for the other side. Thanks for your replies. AJPDLA "Zex0s" <zex0s@zex0s.org> wrote in message news:opruv1zbtap8czci@netnews.mchsi.com... > > On Tue, 2 Sep 2003 11:53:38 -0700, ajpdla <ajpdla@pacifier.com> wrote: > -snip- > > When I removed the caliper from the rotor, the wheel turns fine now. > > Freewheels great. Rotor looks a little "off"; so those are off to be > > turned > > or replaced altogether. Brake pads looked fine. > -snip- > > I am now wondering if the piston itself inside the caliper is just either > > sticking or is no good. > > You may be slightly over-reacting. Every vehicle's brakes that I have ever > replaced have had the exact same "problem" it's called pnuematic pressure. > It builds up when a vehicle is off, and there's no decent flow of brake > fluid, and the fluid just builds up at the lowest point, thanks to gravity. > The lowest point happens to be the brake calipers. (This is why a running > vehicle is easier to push in neutral than a stopped vehicle is.) Get > yourself a C-clamp to push the pistons back in, and then see how easy it is > to turn with the calipers on. > > Now, to see if the calipers are sticking, try to slide them by hand with > them off the rotor.. back and forth, if they dont move freely, then the > calipers should be replaced, if they do, and the piston pops back out after > pushing it in with the C-clamp, then the pistons are bad.. if the calipers > move, and the piston stays where you pushed it to, then nothing is wrong. > > Chuck Burns > |
Re: 1995 Honda Passport - Brakes question
Thanks for the advice/procedure. I agree. I think I might be
over-reacting, especially due to the fact that this car has been sitting in my driveway for the past almost two months. It's my first "dive" into the realm of self-mechanics -- and DEFINITELY the last. But I am having fun. I've spent the past few weeks cleaning out both sides of the heads, fixing various problems along the way. This car was definitely neglected over the past few years regarding oil changes, et cetera. The current work has now included a total replacement of rocker arm shafts for both sides, the completion of cleaning, re-awaking stuck hydraulic lifters, and replacement of all oil seals, timing belt, thermostat, all belts, et cetera. It's been fun. The wife's ready to have her car back now, though. I've been killing time this week on the wheel bearings and brakes (something I am a bit more used to doing) whilst waiting for my new rocker shafts to arrive for the other side. Thanks for your replies. AJPDLA "Zex0s" <zex0s@zex0s.org> wrote in message news:opruv1zbtap8czci@netnews.mchsi.com... > > On Tue, 2 Sep 2003 11:53:38 -0700, ajpdla <ajpdla@pacifier.com> wrote: > -snip- > > When I removed the caliper from the rotor, the wheel turns fine now. > > Freewheels great. Rotor looks a little "off"; so those are off to be > > turned > > or replaced altogether. Brake pads looked fine. > -snip- > > I am now wondering if the piston itself inside the caliper is just either > > sticking or is no good. > > You may be slightly over-reacting. Every vehicle's brakes that I have ever > replaced have had the exact same "problem" it's called pnuematic pressure. > It builds up when a vehicle is off, and there's no decent flow of brake > fluid, and the fluid just builds up at the lowest point, thanks to gravity. > The lowest point happens to be the brake calipers. (This is why a running > vehicle is easier to push in neutral than a stopped vehicle is.) Get > yourself a C-clamp to push the pistons back in, and then see how easy it is > to turn with the calipers on. > > Now, to see if the calipers are sticking, try to slide them by hand with > them off the rotor.. back and forth, if they dont move freely, then the > calipers should be replaced, if they do, and the piston pops back out after > pushing it in with the C-clamp, then the pistons are bad.. if the calipers > move, and the piston stays where you pushed it to, then nothing is wrong. > > Chuck Burns > |
Re: 1995 Honda Passport - Brakes question
you can get rebuilt calipers with a lifetime warranty at Autozone for $44
each. to get the parts to rebuild would cost 30-35 each. no brainer. go get the calipers "ajpdla" <ajpdla@pacifier.com> wrote in message news:vl9pba8v3p56d1@corp.supernews.com... > I am in the process of repacking my front wheel bearings on my 1995 Honda > Passport, 4WD. > > What prompted me to do this is, one, I am a new owner of this vehicle and am > not sure when this had been done before. The car has 104K miles on it. > When I jacked the car up off the ground, in an attempt to turn the wheel, it > wouldn't turn even a 1/4 of a turn with moderate pressure. This concerned > me. The 4WD is not engaged at this time. So I figured I would re-pack the > bearings. > > When I removed the caliper from the rotor, the wheel turns fine now. > Freewheels great. Rotor looks a little "off"; so those are off to be turned > or replaced altogether. Brake pads looked fine. > > I am now wondering if the piston itself inside the caliper is just either > sticking or is no good. > > What is the going cost of new reloaded calipers as opposed to having them > rebuilt. Which I will probably end up doing myself at this point. Just > wanted to know if someone had a better way of going about this in terms of > what the problem might be with the calipers obviously hitting against the > rotor too tightly. > > Thanks. > > |
Re: 1995 Honda Passport - Brakes question
you can get rebuilt calipers with a lifetime warranty at Autozone for $44
each. to get the parts to rebuild would cost 30-35 each. no brainer. go get the calipers "ajpdla" <ajpdla@pacifier.com> wrote in message news:vl9pba8v3p56d1@corp.supernews.com... > I am in the process of repacking my front wheel bearings on my 1995 Honda > Passport, 4WD. > > What prompted me to do this is, one, I am a new owner of this vehicle and am > not sure when this had been done before. The car has 104K miles on it. > When I jacked the car up off the ground, in an attempt to turn the wheel, it > wouldn't turn even a 1/4 of a turn with moderate pressure. This concerned > me. The 4WD is not engaged at this time. So I figured I would re-pack the > bearings. > > When I removed the caliper from the rotor, the wheel turns fine now. > Freewheels great. Rotor looks a little "off"; so those are off to be turned > or replaced altogether. Brake pads looked fine. > > I am now wondering if the piston itself inside the caliper is just either > sticking or is no good. > > What is the going cost of new reloaded calipers as opposed to having them > rebuilt. Which I will probably end up doing myself at this point. Just > wanted to know if someone had a better way of going about this in terms of > what the problem might be with the calipers obviously hitting against the > rotor too tightly. > > Thanks. > > |
Re: 1995 Honda Passport - Brakes question
Cool. Now all I need is an Autozone that's anywhere close to where I live.
:) I'm in the boonies, for sure. "mikltaz" <1mikltaz@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:A9ycnXGCOdFnociiXTWJiw@comcast.com... > you can get rebuilt calipers with a lifetime warranty at Autozone for $44 > each. to get the parts to rebuild would cost 30-35 each. no brainer. go > get the calipers > "ajpdla" <ajpdla@pacifier.com> wrote in message > news:vl9pba8v3p56d1@corp.supernews.com... > > I am in the process of repacking my front wheel bearings on my 1995 Honda > > Passport, 4WD. > > > > What prompted me to do this is, one, I am a new owner of this vehicle and > am > > not sure when this had been done before. The car has 104K miles on it. > > When I jacked the car up off the ground, in an attempt to turn the wheel, > it > > wouldn't turn even a 1/4 of a turn with moderate pressure. This concerned > > me. The 4WD is not engaged at this time. So I figured I would re-pack > the > > bearings. > > > > When I removed the caliper from the rotor, the wheel turns fine now. > > Freewheels great. Rotor looks a little "off"; so those are off to be > turned > > or replaced altogether. Brake pads looked fine. > > > > I am now wondering if the piston itself inside the caliper is just either > > sticking or is no good. > > > > What is the going cost of new reloaded calipers as opposed to having them > > rebuilt. Which I will probably end up doing myself at this point. Just > > wanted to know if someone had a better way of going about this in terms of > > what the problem might be with the calipers obviously hitting against the > > rotor too tightly. > > > > Thanks. > > > > > > |
Re: 1995 Honda Passport - Brakes question
Cool. Now all I need is an Autozone that's anywhere close to where I live.
:) I'm in the boonies, for sure. "mikltaz" <1mikltaz@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:A9ycnXGCOdFnociiXTWJiw@comcast.com... > you can get rebuilt calipers with a lifetime warranty at Autozone for $44 > each. to get the parts to rebuild would cost 30-35 each. no brainer. go > get the calipers > "ajpdla" <ajpdla@pacifier.com> wrote in message > news:vl9pba8v3p56d1@corp.supernews.com... > > I am in the process of repacking my front wheel bearings on my 1995 Honda > > Passport, 4WD. > > > > What prompted me to do this is, one, I am a new owner of this vehicle and > am > > not sure when this had been done before. The car has 104K miles on it. > > When I jacked the car up off the ground, in an attempt to turn the wheel, > it > > wouldn't turn even a 1/4 of a turn with moderate pressure. This concerned > > me. The 4WD is not engaged at this time. So I figured I would re-pack > the > > bearings. > > > > When I removed the caliper from the rotor, the wheel turns fine now. > > Freewheels great. Rotor looks a little "off"; so those are off to be > turned > > or replaced altogether. Brake pads looked fine. > > > > I am now wondering if the piston itself inside the caliper is just either > > sticking or is no good. > > > > What is the going cost of new reloaded calipers as opposed to having them > > rebuilt. Which I will probably end up doing myself at this point. Just > > wanted to know if someone had a better way of going about this in terms of > > what the problem might be with the calipers obviously hitting against the > > rotor too tightly. > > > > Thanks. > > > > > > |
Re: 1995 Honda Passport - Brakes question
On Tue, 2 Sep 2003 11:53:38 -0700, "ajpdla" <ajpdla@pacifier.com> wrote:
>I am in the process of repacking my front wheel bearings on my 1995 Honda >Passport, 4WD. > >What prompted me to do this is, one, I am a new owner of this vehicle and am >not sure when this had been done before. The car has 104K miles on it. >When I jacked the car up off the ground, in an attempt to turn the wheel, it >wouldn't turn even a 1/4 of a turn with moderate pressure. This concerned >me. The 4WD is not engaged at this time. So I figured I would re-pack the >bearings. > >When I removed the caliper from the rotor, the wheel turns fine now. >Freewheels great. Rotor looks a little "off"; so those are off to be turned >or replaced altogether. Brake pads looked fine. > >I am now wondering if the piston itself inside the caliper is just either >sticking or is no good. > >What is the going cost of new reloaded calipers as opposed to having them >rebuilt. Which I will probably end up doing myself at this point. Just >wanted to know if someone had a better way of going about this in terms of >what the problem might be with the calipers obviously hitting against the >rotor too tightly. I used the UCX rebuilt calipers <www.ucx.com> and was pleased with the results - exact same part number as the replaced part and only ~$25. per front caliper. These were only the caliper part - not the frame - so easy to replace. Rgds, George Macdonald "Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me?? |
Re: 1995 Honda Passport - Brakes question
On Tue, 2 Sep 2003 11:53:38 -0700, "ajpdla" <ajpdla@pacifier.com> wrote:
>I am in the process of repacking my front wheel bearings on my 1995 Honda >Passport, 4WD. > >What prompted me to do this is, one, I am a new owner of this vehicle and am >not sure when this had been done before. The car has 104K miles on it. >When I jacked the car up off the ground, in an attempt to turn the wheel, it >wouldn't turn even a 1/4 of a turn with moderate pressure. This concerned >me. The 4WD is not engaged at this time. So I figured I would re-pack the >bearings. > >When I removed the caliper from the rotor, the wheel turns fine now. >Freewheels great. Rotor looks a little "off"; so those are off to be turned >or replaced altogether. Brake pads looked fine. > >I am now wondering if the piston itself inside the caliper is just either >sticking or is no good. > >What is the going cost of new reloaded calipers as opposed to having them >rebuilt. Which I will probably end up doing myself at this point. Just >wanted to know if someone had a better way of going about this in terms of >what the problem might be with the calipers obviously hitting against the >rotor too tightly. I used the UCX rebuilt calipers <www.ucx.com> and was pleased with the results - exact same part number as the replaced part and only ~$25. per front caliper. These were only the caliper part - not the frame - so easy to replace. Rgds, George Macdonald "Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me?? |
Re: 1995 Honda Passport - Brakes question
I have a '95 Passport. The procedure shouldn't be all that different.
Make sure the vehicle is in 2WD. 1. Loosen the wheel lug nuts. Jack up the vehicle. Place it on jackstands. Remove the wheel. 2. Remove the brake caliper. Hang it out of the way with wire. 3. Mark the position of the hub cap and remove it. (White-Out works great) 4. Mark the position of the hub housing, then remove it. ("") 5. Remove the snap ring. 6. If there are any shims, make sure to keep them in the same order. 7. Remove the drive clutch assembly. 8. Remove the inner cam. 9. Remove the screws off the lock washer (mine were so tight that I ended up stripping all of them and having to easy-out them; so be careful or be prepared to just replace the screws). and lift the lock washer off. 10. Unscrew the hub nut. If too tight use a punch. 11. Pull the hub out slightly, then push it back in, to remove the outer wheel bearing. 12. Pull the hub off the spindle. 13. Remove the bolts which attach the rotor to the hub. This is pretty difficult without an air-driven impact wrench; but I was able to accomplish it with a good ratchet and a hammer fairly easily. Installation is pretty much reverse. DISCLAIMER: This advice is offered solely as a guide. You are responsible for all of your own work, safety precautions, et cetera. I make no guarantees. "'5ÛHH575-UAZWKVVP-7H2H48V3" <shank@lost.net> wrote in message news:d9hflvoelovb4pe4polr2faap7mpg1omk6@4ax.com... > I have a 1995.5 passport 4x4 v6. I wiped Out one of the rotors. I do > not have a repair manual and am stranded at home till i get these > rotors off and a new one on. Anybody have the answer to removing them. > It is certainly not like normal cars. "George Macdonald" <fammacd=!SPAM^nothanks@tellurian.com> wrote in message news:3f5720dd.2057144@news.tellurian.com... > On Tue, 2 Sep 2003 11:53:38 -0700, "ajpdla" <ajpdla@pacifier.com> wrote: > > >I am in the process of repacking my front wheel bearings on my 1995 Honda > >Passport, 4WD. > > > >What prompted me to do this is, one, I am a new owner of this vehicle and am > >not sure when this had been done before. The car has 104K miles on it. > >When I jacked the car up off the ground, in an attempt to turn the wheel, it > >wouldn't turn even a 1/4 of a turn with moderate pressure. This concerned > >me. The 4WD is not engaged at this time. So I figured I would re-pack the > >bearings. > > > >When I removed the caliper from the rotor, the wheel turns fine now. > >Freewheels great. Rotor looks a little "off"; so those are off to be turned > >or replaced altogether. Brake pads looked fine. > > > >I am now wondering if the piston itself inside the caliper is just either > >sticking or is no good. > > > >What is the going cost of new reloaded calipers as opposed to having them > >rebuilt. Which I will probably end up doing myself at this point. Just > >wanted to know if someone had a better way of going about this in terms of > >what the problem might be with the calipers obviously hitting against the > >rotor too tightly. > > I used the UCX rebuilt calipers <www.ucx.com> and was pleased with the > results - exact same part number as the replaced part and only ~$25. per > front caliper. These were only the caliper part - not the frame - so easy > to replace. > > Rgds, George Macdonald > > "Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me?? |
Re: 1995 Honda Passport - Brakes question
I have a '95 Passport. The procedure shouldn't be all that different.
Make sure the vehicle is in 2WD. 1. Loosen the wheel lug nuts. Jack up the vehicle. Place it on jackstands. Remove the wheel. 2. Remove the brake caliper. Hang it out of the way with wire. 3. Mark the position of the hub cap and remove it. (White-Out works great) 4. Mark the position of the hub housing, then remove it. ("") 5. Remove the snap ring. 6. If there are any shims, make sure to keep them in the same order. 7. Remove the drive clutch assembly. 8. Remove the inner cam. 9. Remove the screws off the lock washer (mine were so tight that I ended up stripping all of them and having to easy-out them; so be careful or be prepared to just replace the screws). and lift the lock washer off. 10. Unscrew the hub nut. If too tight use a punch. 11. Pull the hub out slightly, then push it back in, to remove the outer wheel bearing. 12. Pull the hub off the spindle. 13. Remove the bolts which attach the rotor to the hub. This is pretty difficult without an air-driven impact wrench; but I was able to accomplish it with a good ratchet and a hammer fairly easily. Installation is pretty much reverse. DISCLAIMER: This advice is offered solely as a guide. You are responsible for all of your own work, safety precautions, et cetera. I make no guarantees. "'5ÛHH575-UAZWKVVP-7H2H48V3" <shank@lost.net> wrote in message news:d9hflvoelovb4pe4polr2faap7mpg1omk6@4ax.com... > I have a 1995.5 passport 4x4 v6. I wiped Out one of the rotors. I do > not have a repair manual and am stranded at home till i get these > rotors off and a new one on. Anybody have the answer to removing them. > It is certainly not like normal cars. "George Macdonald" <fammacd=!SPAM^nothanks@tellurian.com> wrote in message news:3f5720dd.2057144@news.tellurian.com... > On Tue, 2 Sep 2003 11:53:38 -0700, "ajpdla" <ajpdla@pacifier.com> wrote: > > >I am in the process of repacking my front wheel bearings on my 1995 Honda > >Passport, 4WD. > > > >What prompted me to do this is, one, I am a new owner of this vehicle and am > >not sure when this had been done before. The car has 104K miles on it. > >When I jacked the car up off the ground, in an attempt to turn the wheel, it > >wouldn't turn even a 1/4 of a turn with moderate pressure. This concerned > >me. The 4WD is not engaged at this time. So I figured I would re-pack the > >bearings. > > > >When I removed the caliper from the rotor, the wheel turns fine now. > >Freewheels great. Rotor looks a little "off"; so those are off to be turned > >or replaced altogether. Brake pads looked fine. > > > >I am now wondering if the piston itself inside the caliper is just either > >sticking or is no good. > > > >What is the going cost of new reloaded calipers as opposed to having them > >rebuilt. Which I will probably end up doing myself at this point. Just > >wanted to know if someone had a better way of going about this in terms of > >what the problem might be with the calipers obviously hitting against the > >rotor too tightly. > > I used the UCX rebuilt calipers <www.ucx.com> and was pleased with the > results - exact same part number as the replaced part and only ~$25. per > front caliper. These were only the caliper part - not the frame - so easy > to replace. > > Rgds, George Macdonald > > "Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me?? |
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