please.post.here@tia

Is there a special tool for removing aux valve assembly from head
without damaging it?

RG

Eric

please.post.here@tia wrote:
>
> Is there a special tool for removing aux valve assembly from head
> without damaging it?
>

Yes, you need one of these http://tinyurl.com/4sbfa and a small slide
hammer. The tool clamps around the top of the auxiliary valve spring
retainer and you use the slide hammer to pop the valve out after removing
the retaining nut first (for which you'll need either a 21 or 22 mm deep 12
point socket). Note that there are two copper seal rings for each valve and
you'll need to replace both of the them. The lower seal ring can be
annoying to get out. However, with a little patience and a 90° pick such as
this http://tinyurl.com/5b695 you should be able to get it out without
damaging the valve bore.

Eric

Eric

please.post.here@tia wrote:
>
> Is there a special tool for removing aux valve assembly from head
> without damaging it?
>

Yes, you need one of these http://tinyurl.com/4sbfa and a small slide
hammer. The tool clamps around the top of the auxiliary valve spring
retainer and you use the slide hammer to pop the valve out after removing
the retaining nut first (for which you'll need either a 21 or 22 mm deep 12
point socket). Note that there are two copper seal rings for each valve and
you'll need to replace both of the them. The lower seal ring can be
annoying to get out. However, with a little patience and a 90° pick such as
this http://tinyurl.com/5b695 you should be able to get it out without
damaging the valve bore.

Eric

Eric

Eric wrote:
>
> please.post.here@tia wrote:
> >
> > Is there a special tool for removing aux valve assembly from head
> > without damaging it?
> >
>
> Yes, you need one of these http://tinyurl.com/4sbfa and a small slide
> hammer. The tool clamps around the top of the auxiliary valve spring
> retainer and you use the slide hammer to pop the valve out after removing
> the retaining nut first (for which you'll need either a 21 or 22 mm deep
> 12 point socket). Note that there are two copper seal rings for each
> valve and you'll need to replace both of the them. The lower seal ring
> can be annoying to get out. However, with a little patience and a 90°
> pick such as this http://tinyurl.com/5b695 you should be able to get it
> out without damaging the valve bore.
>

I forgot to mention that you need to be certain that the valve is pulled out
of the bore along its vertical axis otherwise you may wind up bending the
valve. Once the valves are removed, they can be disassembled by hand. In
addition to the copper seal rings, also replace the o-ring of course. Also,
make sure the valve bore in the head is clean of all carbon before
installing the valve bodies back into the head (and don't forget to torque
the locknuts). The cam tower/rocker arm assembly should be installed with
the valve adjuster screws backed out 'till they're flush with the rocker arm
to minimize the risk of catching one on a valve and bending it. Lastly, put
a light coat of ultra gray silicone sealant on the head mating surfaces of
the two end cam towers, the distributor carrier o-ring, and on the cam seal
which may need to be replaced. Check the factory service manual for torque
specs, http://www.helminc.com. By the way, you should check to see if the
oil pump drive gear has been updated. This is a critical issue as these
older Hondas had problems of eating up the gear teeth on the cam/drive gear
resulting in metal contamination and loss of engine lubrication. This
failure seemed to occur after the cam/cam towers/drive gear was disturbed.
If you can remove the cam towers without removing the cap for the drive gear
then you may be ok. However, it's best to update the drive gear if needed
to be on the safe side. The old drive gear has a broad upper bearing
surface while the updated drive gear has a more narrow upper bearing surface
(about a 1/2 to 1/3 of the old style if I remember correctly) and a clip
ring at the top.

Eric

Eric

Eric wrote:
>
> please.post.here@tia wrote:
> >
> > Is there a special tool for removing aux valve assembly from head
> > without damaging it?
> >
>
> Yes, you need one of these http://tinyurl.com/4sbfa and a small slide
> hammer. The tool clamps around the top of the auxiliary valve spring
> retainer and you use the slide hammer to pop the valve out after removing
> the retaining nut first (for which you'll need either a 21 or 22 mm deep
> 12 point socket). Note that there are two copper seal rings for each
> valve and you'll need to replace both of the them. The lower seal ring
> can be annoying to get out. However, with a little patience and a 90°
> pick such as this http://tinyurl.com/5b695 you should be able to get it
> out without damaging the valve bore.
>

I forgot to mention that you need to be certain that the valve is pulled out
of the bore along its vertical axis otherwise you may wind up bending the
valve. Once the valves are removed, they can be disassembled by hand. In
addition to the copper seal rings, also replace the o-ring of course. Also,
make sure the valve bore in the head is clean of all carbon before
installing the valve bodies back into the head (and don't forget to torque
the locknuts). The cam tower/rocker arm assembly should be installed with
the valve adjuster screws backed out 'till they're flush with the rocker arm
to minimize the risk of catching one on a valve and bending it. Lastly, put
a light coat of ultra gray silicone sealant on the head mating surfaces of
the two end cam towers, the distributor carrier o-ring, and on the cam seal
which may need to be replaced. Check the factory service manual for torque
specs, http://www.helminc.com. By the way, you should check to see if the
oil pump drive gear has been updated. This is a critical issue as these
older Hondas had problems of eating up the gear teeth on the cam/drive gear
resulting in metal contamination and loss of engine lubrication. This
failure seemed to occur after the cam/cam towers/drive gear was disturbed.
If you can remove the cam towers without removing the cap for the drive gear
then you may be ok. However, it's best to update the drive gear if needed
to be on the safe side. The old drive gear has a broad upper bearing
surface while the updated drive gear has a more narrow upper bearing surface
(about a 1/2 to 1/3 of the old style if I remember correctly) and a clip
ring at the top.

Eric

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