'86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use some help.
Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I
would like to ask about the emissions... Here are the results of the smog test... GAS STANDARD READING RESULT NOx 1504 1503 PASS HC 194 120 PASS CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS CO2% 13.9 O2% 0.7 When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably drove it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH I'm actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on NOx? If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at the actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone knows how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too. Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle of gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a while it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car). That's something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my ass off in the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the lower half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible to see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger. I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed". On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper replacement." On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement. For left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken or loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or anything. Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be open after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel? I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh engine in my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when I get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned speeding ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how fast I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the road in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive and to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court case and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work. It's just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things though. In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer, emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension I would appreciate it. Thanks. Cory |
Re: '86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use some help.
Which inspection station? Used to live in NJ. They're trying to
save your life, if you let them. Bad shocks in Jersey's heavy traffic and demanding roads precludes you from stopping and steering your way out of trouble. Add winter roads and you've a h_ll of chance in avoiding an accident. "Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote in message news:L5Xnb.29843$4O1.7374@nwrdny01.gnilink.net... > Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I > would like to ask about the emissions... > > Here are the results of the smog test... > GAS STANDARD READING RESULT > NOx 1504 1503 PASS > HC 194 120 PASS > CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS > CO2% 13.9 > O2% 0.7 > > > When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably drove > it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my > speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH I'm > actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on NOx? > If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at the > actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone knows > how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too. > > Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle of > gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's > barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a while > it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not > installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car). That's > something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my ass off in > the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the lower > half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible to > see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature > thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what > would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add > that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger. > > > I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed". > > On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper > replacement." > On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement. For > left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken or > loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or > anything. > > Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check > alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow > left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be open > after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car > pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly > cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel? > > I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get > better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh engine in > my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when I > get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned speeding > ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how fast > I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the road > in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with > virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive and > to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court case > and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the > wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work. It's > just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things > though. > > In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer, > emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension I > would appreciate it. Thanks. > > Cory > > |
Re: '86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use some help.
Which inspection station? Used to live in NJ. They're trying to
save your life, if you let them. Bad shocks in Jersey's heavy traffic and demanding roads precludes you from stopping and steering your way out of trouble. Add winter roads and you've a h_ll of chance in avoiding an accident. "Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote in message news:L5Xnb.29843$4O1.7374@nwrdny01.gnilink.net... > Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I > would like to ask about the emissions... > > Here are the results of the smog test... > GAS STANDARD READING RESULT > NOx 1504 1503 PASS > HC 194 120 PASS > CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS > CO2% 13.9 > O2% 0.7 > > > When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably drove > it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my > speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH I'm > actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on NOx? > If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at the > actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone knows > how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too. > > Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle of > gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's > barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a while > it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not > installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car). That's > something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my ass off in > the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the lower > half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible to > see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature > thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what > would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add > that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger. > > > I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed". > > On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper > replacement." > On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement. For > left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken or > loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or > anything. > > Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check > alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow > left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be open > after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car > pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly > cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel? > > I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get > better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh engine in > my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when I > get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned speeding > ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how fast > I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the road > in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with > virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive and > to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court case > and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the > wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work. It's > just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things > though. > > In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer, > emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension I > would appreciate it. Thanks. > > Cory > > |
Re: '86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use some help.
Which inspection station? Used to live in NJ. They're trying to
save your life, if you let them. Bad shocks in Jersey's heavy traffic and demanding roads precludes you from stopping and steering your way out of trouble. Add winter roads and you've a h_ll of chance in avoiding an accident. "Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote in message news:L5Xnb.29843$4O1.7374@nwrdny01.gnilink.net... > Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I > would like to ask about the emissions... > > Here are the results of the smog test... > GAS STANDARD READING RESULT > NOx 1504 1503 PASS > HC 194 120 PASS > CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS > CO2% 13.9 > O2% 0.7 > > > When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably drove > it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my > speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH I'm > actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on NOx? > If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at the > actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone knows > how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too. > > Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle of > gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's > barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a while > it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not > installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car). That's > something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my ass off in > the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the lower > half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible to > see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature > thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what > would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add > that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger. > > > I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed". > > On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper > replacement." > On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement. For > left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken or > loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or > anything. > > Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check > alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow > left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be open > after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car > pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly > cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel? > > I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get > better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh engine in > my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when I > get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned speeding > ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how fast > I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the road > in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with > virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive and > to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court case > and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the > wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work. It's > just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things > though. > > In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer, > emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension I > would appreciate it. Thanks. > > Cory > > |
Re: '86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use some help.
Which inspection station? Used to live in NJ. They're trying to
save your life, if you let them. Bad shocks in Jersey's heavy traffic and demanding roads precludes you from stopping and steering your way out of trouble. Add winter roads and you've a h_ll of chance in avoiding an accident. "Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote in message news:L5Xnb.29843$4O1.7374@nwrdny01.gnilink.net... > Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I > would like to ask about the emissions... > > Here are the results of the smog test... > GAS STANDARD READING RESULT > NOx 1504 1503 PASS > HC 194 120 PASS > CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS > CO2% 13.9 > O2% 0.7 > > > When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably drove > it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my > speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH I'm > actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on NOx? > If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at the > actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone knows > how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too. > > Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle of > gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's > barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a while > it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not > installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car). That's > something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my ass off in > the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the lower > half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible to > see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature > thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what > would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add > that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger. > > > I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed". > > On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper > replacement." > On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement. For > left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken or > loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or > anything. > > Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check > alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow > left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be open > after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car > pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly > cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel? > > I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get > better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh engine in > my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when I > get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned speeding > ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how fast > I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the road > in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with > virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive and > to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court case > and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the > wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work. It's > just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things > though. > > In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer, > emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension I > would appreciate it. Thanks. > > Cory > > |
Re: '86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use some help.
I've managed just fine in my '67 Galaxie with original springs and socks
that are probably 10 or more years old. The rotted out bottoms of the frame rails surely didn't help stiffen anything up. This little Honda is amazing compared to my '67, it's like it's glued to the road. When turning really tight when it's wet out all the wheels start to lose traction at about the same time... And even when I slam the brakes to the floor it's very hard to lock a wheel. It stops on a dime. This thing is a lot more nimble than my old Gal. My only complaint (besides it being so small and hard to get out of) is that it's got no low end grunt like my Gal did, but as long as I keep the revs up it'll move pretty quick. Compared to my '68 Galaxie the Honda is 'only' a good improvement. The '68 has new shocks and under half the miles my '67 has ('67 has 202,000+ miles, the '68 has ~97,000), as well as having no rot anywhere and the only rust is surface rust on a few spots of the frame and two spots of cancer under the vinyl top. With the '68 I could take turns quite tightly, though obviously not tight like the Honda since my '68 is at least twice as big. Of course the body tints/rolls a bit in tight turns, but the wheels stay planted on the ground well enough. The front wheels will lose traction before the rear so long as you aren't giving it too much gas... I like how with this Prelude they all start to go at once, as it seems to be getting the most out of each wheels contact with the ground. In any case, the point is that if I did well in my '67 with ancient shocks/springs I will be fine in a subcompact Honda from '86 that sits only an inch or two off the ground and has a super stiff suspension. I've done many emergency maneuvers in my '67 and it's come through and saved my life every time. In this Honda I've be afraid to jump a curb at 30 MPH for fear of crumpling in the front when the bumper hits the curb and destroying the front end when the tires hit it. Now my Gal on the other hand can take that without the slightest protest. I wouldn't do it regularly, but I wouldn't hesitate to do it if I ever needed to again. The people at the inspection station didn't seem competent enough to actually tell me what the problem was or may be, only that there was "something wrong with your front right wheel or suspension". I'm not worried about the worn shocks, as the car handles great. I am a little worried about the reason it failed though, as it could be a safety issue. The inspection station people didn't seem concerned about it and I have been driving the car for almost two weeks without any trouble so I'm not too worried. I'll be getting an alignment now that I've stumbled across some money today, and on Friday I'll have a look under the car to see if anything is obviously wrong to me. I was hoping someone here could give me a little direction or anything to think about/look at as my knowledge of cars is all about '60s Fords. I've only ever gotten 'down and dirty' with a few Galaxies and a Mustang. I know only the basics about a fancy hi-tech modern car such as this Prelude I got two weeks ago. I'm very interested to learn about it and how to work on it, but I have nod desire to spend any more money than is absolutely necessary as this thing is just an econo-box style beater. If a Toyota Tercel I was gonna get hadn't sold before I made an offer I woulda been driving that. This is purely a utilitarian vehicle, I want to keep it in good running order, but not spend more than is necessary as that is that much less money I have to spend on my real cars. Heaven forbid this thing actually doesn't cost me a fortune and I can save money for the most important things in life than cars. That was part of the idea behind buying it. It's a $300 car with no collector or hobbyist value, and I'll be treating it as such. Anyway, I went to the Cherry Hill inspection station. Got right in, only waited less than a minute. Guess I picked a good time. Cory "Bill Freeman" <bfree@netzero.net> wrote in message news:bnpjdd$145k8g$1@ID-82447.news.uni-berlin.de... > Which inspection station? Used to live in NJ. They're trying to > save your life, if you let them. Bad shocks in Jersey's heavy traffic and > demanding roads precludes you from stopping and steering your way out of > trouble. Add winter roads and you've a h_ll of chance in avoiding an > accident. > > > "Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote in message > news:L5Xnb.29843$4O1.7374@nwrdny01.gnilink.net... > > Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I > > would like to ask about the emissions... > > > > Here are the results of the smog test... > > GAS STANDARD READING RESULT > > NOx 1504 1503 PASS > > HC 194 120 PASS > > CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS > > CO2% 13.9 > > O2% 0.7 > > > > > > When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably > drove > > it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my > > speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH > I'm > > actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on NOx? > > If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at > the > > actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone knows > > how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too. > > > > Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle of > > gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's > > barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a > while > > it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not > > installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car). > That's > > something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my ass off in > > the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the lower > > half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible to > > see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature > > thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what > > would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add > > that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger. > > > > > > I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed". > > > > On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper > > replacement." > > On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement. > For > > left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken > or > > loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or > > anything. > > > > Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check > > alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow > > left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be > open > > after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car > > pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly > > cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel? > > > > I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get > > better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh engine > in > > my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when I > > get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned > speeding > > ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how > fast > > I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the > road > > in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with > > virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive > and > > to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court > case > > and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the > > wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work. > It's > > just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things > > though. > > > > In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer, > > emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension I > > would appreciate it. Thanks. > > > > Cory > > > > > > |
Re: '86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use some help.
I've managed just fine in my '67 Galaxie with original springs and socks
that are probably 10 or more years old. The rotted out bottoms of the frame rails surely didn't help stiffen anything up. This little Honda is amazing compared to my '67, it's like it's glued to the road. When turning really tight when it's wet out all the wheels start to lose traction at about the same time... And even when I slam the brakes to the floor it's very hard to lock a wheel. It stops on a dime. This thing is a lot more nimble than my old Gal. My only complaint (besides it being so small and hard to get out of) is that it's got no low end grunt like my Gal did, but as long as I keep the revs up it'll move pretty quick. Compared to my '68 Galaxie the Honda is 'only' a good improvement. The '68 has new shocks and under half the miles my '67 has ('67 has 202,000+ miles, the '68 has ~97,000), as well as having no rot anywhere and the only rust is surface rust on a few spots of the frame and two spots of cancer under the vinyl top. With the '68 I could take turns quite tightly, though obviously not tight like the Honda since my '68 is at least twice as big. Of course the body tints/rolls a bit in tight turns, but the wheels stay planted on the ground well enough. The front wheels will lose traction before the rear so long as you aren't giving it too much gas... I like how with this Prelude they all start to go at once, as it seems to be getting the most out of each wheels contact with the ground. In any case, the point is that if I did well in my '67 with ancient shocks/springs I will be fine in a subcompact Honda from '86 that sits only an inch or two off the ground and has a super stiff suspension. I've done many emergency maneuvers in my '67 and it's come through and saved my life every time. In this Honda I've be afraid to jump a curb at 30 MPH for fear of crumpling in the front when the bumper hits the curb and destroying the front end when the tires hit it. Now my Gal on the other hand can take that without the slightest protest. I wouldn't do it regularly, but I wouldn't hesitate to do it if I ever needed to again. The people at the inspection station didn't seem competent enough to actually tell me what the problem was or may be, only that there was "something wrong with your front right wheel or suspension". I'm not worried about the worn shocks, as the car handles great. I am a little worried about the reason it failed though, as it could be a safety issue. The inspection station people didn't seem concerned about it and I have been driving the car for almost two weeks without any trouble so I'm not too worried. I'll be getting an alignment now that I've stumbled across some money today, and on Friday I'll have a look under the car to see if anything is obviously wrong to me. I was hoping someone here could give me a little direction or anything to think about/look at as my knowledge of cars is all about '60s Fords. I've only ever gotten 'down and dirty' with a few Galaxies and a Mustang. I know only the basics about a fancy hi-tech modern car such as this Prelude I got two weeks ago. I'm very interested to learn about it and how to work on it, but I have nod desire to spend any more money than is absolutely necessary as this thing is just an econo-box style beater. If a Toyota Tercel I was gonna get hadn't sold before I made an offer I woulda been driving that. This is purely a utilitarian vehicle, I want to keep it in good running order, but not spend more than is necessary as that is that much less money I have to spend on my real cars. Heaven forbid this thing actually doesn't cost me a fortune and I can save money for the most important things in life than cars. That was part of the idea behind buying it. It's a $300 car with no collector or hobbyist value, and I'll be treating it as such. Anyway, I went to the Cherry Hill inspection station. Got right in, only waited less than a minute. Guess I picked a good time. Cory "Bill Freeman" <bfree@netzero.net> wrote in message news:bnpjdd$145k8g$1@ID-82447.news.uni-berlin.de... > Which inspection station? Used to live in NJ. They're trying to > save your life, if you let them. Bad shocks in Jersey's heavy traffic and > demanding roads precludes you from stopping and steering your way out of > trouble. Add winter roads and you've a h_ll of chance in avoiding an > accident. > > > "Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote in message > news:L5Xnb.29843$4O1.7374@nwrdny01.gnilink.net... > > Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I > > would like to ask about the emissions... > > > > Here are the results of the smog test... > > GAS STANDARD READING RESULT > > NOx 1504 1503 PASS > > HC 194 120 PASS > > CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS > > CO2% 13.9 > > O2% 0.7 > > > > > > When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably > drove > > it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my > > speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH > I'm > > actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on NOx? > > If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at > the > > actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone knows > > how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too. > > > > Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle of > > gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's > > barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a > while > > it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not > > installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car). > That's > > something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my ass off in > > the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the lower > > half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible to > > see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature > > thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what > > would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add > > that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger. > > > > > > I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed". > > > > On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper > > replacement." > > On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement. > For > > left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken > or > > loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or > > anything. > > > > Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check > > alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow > > left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be > open > > after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car > > pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly > > cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel? > > > > I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get > > better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh engine > in > > my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when I > > get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned > speeding > > ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how > fast > > I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the > road > > in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with > > virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive > and > > to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court > case > > and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the > > wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work. > It's > > just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things > > though. > > > > In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer, > > emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension I > > would appreciate it. Thanks. > > > > Cory > > > > > > |
Re: '86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use some help.
I've managed just fine in my '67 Galaxie with original springs and socks
that are probably 10 or more years old. The rotted out bottoms of the frame rails surely didn't help stiffen anything up. This little Honda is amazing compared to my '67, it's like it's glued to the road. When turning really tight when it's wet out all the wheels start to lose traction at about the same time... And even when I slam the brakes to the floor it's very hard to lock a wheel. It stops on a dime. This thing is a lot more nimble than my old Gal. My only complaint (besides it being so small and hard to get out of) is that it's got no low end grunt like my Gal did, but as long as I keep the revs up it'll move pretty quick. Compared to my '68 Galaxie the Honda is 'only' a good improvement. The '68 has new shocks and under half the miles my '67 has ('67 has 202,000+ miles, the '68 has ~97,000), as well as having no rot anywhere and the only rust is surface rust on a few spots of the frame and two spots of cancer under the vinyl top. With the '68 I could take turns quite tightly, though obviously not tight like the Honda since my '68 is at least twice as big. Of course the body tints/rolls a bit in tight turns, but the wheels stay planted on the ground well enough. The front wheels will lose traction before the rear so long as you aren't giving it too much gas... I like how with this Prelude they all start to go at once, as it seems to be getting the most out of each wheels contact with the ground. In any case, the point is that if I did well in my '67 with ancient shocks/springs I will be fine in a subcompact Honda from '86 that sits only an inch or two off the ground and has a super stiff suspension. I've done many emergency maneuvers in my '67 and it's come through and saved my life every time. In this Honda I've be afraid to jump a curb at 30 MPH for fear of crumpling in the front when the bumper hits the curb and destroying the front end when the tires hit it. Now my Gal on the other hand can take that without the slightest protest. I wouldn't do it regularly, but I wouldn't hesitate to do it if I ever needed to again. The people at the inspection station didn't seem competent enough to actually tell me what the problem was or may be, only that there was "something wrong with your front right wheel or suspension". I'm not worried about the worn shocks, as the car handles great. I am a little worried about the reason it failed though, as it could be a safety issue. The inspection station people didn't seem concerned about it and I have been driving the car for almost two weeks without any trouble so I'm not too worried. I'll be getting an alignment now that I've stumbled across some money today, and on Friday I'll have a look under the car to see if anything is obviously wrong to me. I was hoping someone here could give me a little direction or anything to think about/look at as my knowledge of cars is all about '60s Fords. I've only ever gotten 'down and dirty' with a few Galaxies and a Mustang. I know only the basics about a fancy hi-tech modern car such as this Prelude I got two weeks ago. I'm very interested to learn about it and how to work on it, but I have nod desire to spend any more money than is absolutely necessary as this thing is just an econo-box style beater. If a Toyota Tercel I was gonna get hadn't sold before I made an offer I woulda been driving that. This is purely a utilitarian vehicle, I want to keep it in good running order, but not spend more than is necessary as that is that much less money I have to spend on my real cars. Heaven forbid this thing actually doesn't cost me a fortune and I can save money for the most important things in life than cars. That was part of the idea behind buying it. It's a $300 car with no collector or hobbyist value, and I'll be treating it as such. Anyway, I went to the Cherry Hill inspection station. Got right in, only waited less than a minute. Guess I picked a good time. Cory "Bill Freeman" <bfree@netzero.net> wrote in message news:bnpjdd$145k8g$1@ID-82447.news.uni-berlin.de... > Which inspection station? Used to live in NJ. They're trying to > save your life, if you let them. Bad shocks in Jersey's heavy traffic and > demanding roads precludes you from stopping and steering your way out of > trouble. Add winter roads and you've a h_ll of chance in avoiding an > accident. > > > "Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote in message > news:L5Xnb.29843$4O1.7374@nwrdny01.gnilink.net... > > Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I > > would like to ask about the emissions... > > > > Here are the results of the smog test... > > GAS STANDARD READING RESULT > > NOx 1504 1503 PASS > > HC 194 120 PASS > > CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS > > CO2% 13.9 > > O2% 0.7 > > > > > > When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably > drove > > it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my > > speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH > I'm > > actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on NOx? > > If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at > the > > actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone knows > > how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too. > > > > Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle of > > gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's > > barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a > while > > it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not > > installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car). > That's > > something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my ass off in > > the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the lower > > half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible to > > see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature > > thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what > > would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add > > that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger. > > > > > > I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed". > > > > On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper > > replacement." > > On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement. > For > > left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken > or > > loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or > > anything. > > > > Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check > > alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow > > left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be > open > > after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car > > pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly > > cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel? > > > > I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get > > better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh engine > in > > my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when I > > get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned > speeding > > ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how > fast > > I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the > road > > in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with > > virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive > and > > to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court > case > > and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the > > wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work. > It's > > just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things > > though. > > > > In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer, > > emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension I > > would appreciate it. Thanks. > > > > Cory > > > > > > |
Re: '86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use some help.
I've managed just fine in my '67 Galaxie with original springs and socks
that are probably 10 or more years old. The rotted out bottoms of the frame rails surely didn't help stiffen anything up. This little Honda is amazing compared to my '67, it's like it's glued to the road. When turning really tight when it's wet out all the wheels start to lose traction at about the same time... And even when I slam the brakes to the floor it's very hard to lock a wheel. It stops on a dime. This thing is a lot more nimble than my old Gal. My only complaint (besides it being so small and hard to get out of) is that it's got no low end grunt like my Gal did, but as long as I keep the revs up it'll move pretty quick. Compared to my '68 Galaxie the Honda is 'only' a good improvement. The '68 has new shocks and under half the miles my '67 has ('67 has 202,000+ miles, the '68 has ~97,000), as well as having no rot anywhere and the only rust is surface rust on a few spots of the frame and two spots of cancer under the vinyl top. With the '68 I could take turns quite tightly, though obviously not tight like the Honda since my '68 is at least twice as big. Of course the body tints/rolls a bit in tight turns, but the wheels stay planted on the ground well enough. The front wheels will lose traction before the rear so long as you aren't giving it too much gas... I like how with this Prelude they all start to go at once, as it seems to be getting the most out of each wheels contact with the ground. In any case, the point is that if I did well in my '67 with ancient shocks/springs I will be fine in a subcompact Honda from '86 that sits only an inch or two off the ground and has a super stiff suspension. I've done many emergency maneuvers in my '67 and it's come through and saved my life every time. In this Honda I've be afraid to jump a curb at 30 MPH for fear of crumpling in the front when the bumper hits the curb and destroying the front end when the tires hit it. Now my Gal on the other hand can take that without the slightest protest. I wouldn't do it regularly, but I wouldn't hesitate to do it if I ever needed to again. The people at the inspection station didn't seem competent enough to actually tell me what the problem was or may be, only that there was "something wrong with your front right wheel or suspension". I'm not worried about the worn shocks, as the car handles great. I am a little worried about the reason it failed though, as it could be a safety issue. The inspection station people didn't seem concerned about it and I have been driving the car for almost two weeks without any trouble so I'm not too worried. I'll be getting an alignment now that I've stumbled across some money today, and on Friday I'll have a look under the car to see if anything is obviously wrong to me. I was hoping someone here could give me a little direction or anything to think about/look at as my knowledge of cars is all about '60s Fords. I've only ever gotten 'down and dirty' with a few Galaxies and a Mustang. I know only the basics about a fancy hi-tech modern car such as this Prelude I got two weeks ago. I'm very interested to learn about it and how to work on it, but I have nod desire to spend any more money than is absolutely necessary as this thing is just an econo-box style beater. If a Toyota Tercel I was gonna get hadn't sold before I made an offer I woulda been driving that. This is purely a utilitarian vehicle, I want to keep it in good running order, but not spend more than is necessary as that is that much less money I have to spend on my real cars. Heaven forbid this thing actually doesn't cost me a fortune and I can save money for the most important things in life than cars. That was part of the idea behind buying it. It's a $300 car with no collector or hobbyist value, and I'll be treating it as such. Anyway, I went to the Cherry Hill inspection station. Got right in, only waited less than a minute. Guess I picked a good time. Cory "Bill Freeman" <bfree@netzero.net> wrote in message news:bnpjdd$145k8g$1@ID-82447.news.uni-berlin.de... > Which inspection station? Used to live in NJ. They're trying to > save your life, if you let them. Bad shocks in Jersey's heavy traffic and > demanding roads precludes you from stopping and steering your way out of > trouble. Add winter roads and you've a h_ll of chance in avoiding an > accident. > > > "Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote in message > news:L5Xnb.29843$4O1.7374@nwrdny01.gnilink.net... > > Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I > > would like to ask about the emissions... > > > > Here are the results of the smog test... > > GAS STANDARD READING RESULT > > NOx 1504 1503 PASS > > HC 194 120 PASS > > CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS > > CO2% 13.9 > > O2% 0.7 > > > > > > When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably > drove > > it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my > > speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH > I'm > > actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on NOx? > > If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at > the > > actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone knows > > how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too. > > > > Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle of > > gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's > > barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a > while > > it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not > > installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car). > That's > > something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my ass off in > > the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the lower > > half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible to > > see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature > > thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what > > would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add > > that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger. > > > > > > I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed". > > > > On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper > > replacement." > > On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement. > For > > left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken > or > > loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or > > anything. > > > > Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check > > alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow > > left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be > open > > after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car > > pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly > > cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel? > > > > I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get > > better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh engine > in > > my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when I > > get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned > speeding > > ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how > fast > > I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the > road > > in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with > > virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive > and > > to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court > case > > and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the > > wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work. > It's > > just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things > > though. > > > > In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer, > > emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension I > > would appreciate it. Thanks. > > > > Cory > > > > > > |
Re: '86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use somehelp.
Cory Dunkle wrote:
> > Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I > would like to ask about the emissions... > > Here are the results of the smog test... > GAS STANDARD READING RESULT > NOx 1504 1503 PASS > HC 194 120 PASS > CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS > CO2% 13.9 > O2% 0.7 > Are these data from the idle test or the cruise test? Anyways, the CO seems a little high as well as the NOx. Perhaps the car was not fully warmed up or the cat is getting a little tired. If I remember correctly, the EGR system is supposed to help reduce the NOx at speed. Perhaps the EGR valve is either plugged or the vacuum diaphragm may have a leak. A bad thermostat, i.e., stuck open, could have influenced your emissions test result by not allowing the car to obtain a normal operating temperature. I would replace it ASAP at least so you can see where you're going when your windows start to fog over. Undersized tires can cause your speedo to read too fast. Compare the size you have on the car versus what the owner's manual recommends for stock tires. You can go with lower profile tires for better performance if you wish, but you must also go with larger diameter wheels in order to keep the circumference the same. If you can work on your own car, you can rent a spring compressor and replace the struts yourself. I've got KYB GR2 gas struts on my car and they've held up fairly well over the last 6 years. They also offer a slightly firmer ride than stock struts but they're not so stiff that you'll feel every bump in the road. Eric |
Re: '86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use somehelp.
Cory Dunkle wrote:
> > Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I > would like to ask about the emissions... > > Here are the results of the smog test... > GAS STANDARD READING RESULT > NOx 1504 1503 PASS > HC 194 120 PASS > CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS > CO2% 13.9 > O2% 0.7 > Are these data from the idle test or the cruise test? Anyways, the CO seems a little high as well as the NOx. Perhaps the car was not fully warmed up or the cat is getting a little tired. If I remember correctly, the EGR system is supposed to help reduce the NOx at speed. Perhaps the EGR valve is either plugged or the vacuum diaphragm may have a leak. A bad thermostat, i.e., stuck open, could have influenced your emissions test result by not allowing the car to obtain a normal operating temperature. I would replace it ASAP at least so you can see where you're going when your windows start to fog over. Undersized tires can cause your speedo to read too fast. Compare the size you have on the car versus what the owner's manual recommends for stock tires. You can go with lower profile tires for better performance if you wish, but you must also go with larger diameter wheels in order to keep the circumference the same. If you can work on your own car, you can rent a spring compressor and replace the struts yourself. I've got KYB GR2 gas struts on my car and they've held up fairly well over the last 6 years. They also offer a slightly firmer ride than stock struts but they're not so stiff that you'll feel every bump in the road. Eric |
Re: '86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use somehelp.
Cory Dunkle wrote:
> > Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I > would like to ask about the emissions... > > Here are the results of the smog test... > GAS STANDARD READING RESULT > NOx 1504 1503 PASS > HC 194 120 PASS > CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS > CO2% 13.9 > O2% 0.7 > Are these data from the idle test or the cruise test? Anyways, the CO seems a little high as well as the NOx. Perhaps the car was not fully warmed up or the cat is getting a little tired. If I remember correctly, the EGR system is supposed to help reduce the NOx at speed. Perhaps the EGR valve is either plugged or the vacuum diaphragm may have a leak. A bad thermostat, i.e., stuck open, could have influenced your emissions test result by not allowing the car to obtain a normal operating temperature. I would replace it ASAP at least so you can see where you're going when your windows start to fog over. Undersized tires can cause your speedo to read too fast. Compare the size you have on the car versus what the owner's manual recommends for stock tires. You can go with lower profile tires for better performance if you wish, but you must also go with larger diameter wheels in order to keep the circumference the same. If you can work on your own car, you can rent a spring compressor and replace the struts yourself. I've got KYB GR2 gas struts on my car and they've held up fairly well over the last 6 years. They also offer a slightly firmer ride than stock struts but they're not so stiff that you'll feel every bump in the road. Eric |
Re: '86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use somehelp.
Cory Dunkle wrote:
> > Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I > would like to ask about the emissions... > > Here are the results of the smog test... > GAS STANDARD READING RESULT > NOx 1504 1503 PASS > HC 194 120 PASS > CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS > CO2% 13.9 > O2% 0.7 > Are these data from the idle test or the cruise test? Anyways, the CO seems a little high as well as the NOx. Perhaps the car was not fully warmed up or the cat is getting a little tired. If I remember correctly, the EGR system is supposed to help reduce the NOx at speed. Perhaps the EGR valve is either plugged or the vacuum diaphragm may have a leak. A bad thermostat, i.e., stuck open, could have influenced your emissions test result by not allowing the car to obtain a normal operating temperature. I would replace it ASAP at least so you can see where you're going when your windows start to fog over. Undersized tires can cause your speedo to read too fast. Compare the size you have on the car versus what the owner's manual recommends for stock tires. You can go with lower profile tires for better performance if you wish, but you must also go with larger diameter wheels in order to keep the circumference the same. If you can work on your own car, you can rent a spring compressor and replace the struts yourself. I've got KYB GR2 gas struts on my car and they've held up fairly well over the last 6 years. They also offer a slightly firmer ride than stock struts but they're not so stiff that you'll feel every bump in the road. Eric |
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