Gene Wagenbreth

My thanks to this news group and several websites that decribe the
main relay problem. I had an intermittent problem with flashing
sports light and check engine light for 5 years. It was getting bad
enough that I was going to donate the car. Dealer wanted to
put in a new transmission. A mechanic said he replaced the main
rely. I finally took out the main relay myself and found bad solder
joints exactly as pictured on several web sites. Bought a new one
for $40 (too timid to try fixing solder myself). Problem is solved.

Thanks again.

G

Jim Yanik

Gene Wagenbreth <genewxxx@isi-OS4> wrote in news:f8d8a2$q0l@venera.isi.edu:

> My thanks to this news group and several websites that decribe the
> main relay problem. I had an intermittent problem with flashing
> sports light and check engine light for 5 years. It was getting bad
> enough that I was going to donate the car. Dealer wanted to
> put in a new transmission. A mechanic said he replaced the main
> rely.

Did he charge you for it?

> I finally took out the main relay myself and found bad solder
> joints exactly as pictured on several web sites. Bought a new one
> for $40 (too timid to try fixing solder myself). Problem is solved.

Until the new relay gets the same problem.

I believe that people who have resoldered their original relay have had no
failures since,but a new relay may develop the same fractures.

(makes me wonder if the relay maker used the right solder alloy for the
job???)


Now if you still have the old relay,you could find a friend who knows how
to solder and has the tools to re-do the old relay and keep it as a spare.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Jim Yanik

Gene Wagenbreth <genewxxx@isi-OS4> wrote in news:f8d8a2$q0l@venera.isi.edu:

> My thanks to this news group and several websites that decribe the
> main relay problem. I had an intermittent problem with flashing
> sports light and check engine light for 5 years. It was getting bad
> enough that I was going to donate the car. Dealer wanted to
> put in a new transmission. A mechanic said he replaced the main
> rely.

Did he charge you for it?

> I finally took out the main relay myself and found bad solder
> joints exactly as pictured on several web sites. Bought a new one
> for $40 (too timid to try fixing solder myself). Problem is solved.

Until the new relay gets the same problem.

I believe that people who have resoldered their original relay have had no
failures since,but a new relay may develop the same fractures.

(makes me wonder if the relay maker used the right solder alloy for the
job???)


Now if you still have the old relay,you could find a friend who knows how
to solder and has the tools to re-do the old relay and keep it as a spare.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Jim Yanik

Gene Wagenbreth <genewxxx@isi-OS4> wrote in news:f8d8a2$q0l@venera.isi.edu:

> My thanks to this news group and several websites that decribe the
> main relay problem. I had an intermittent problem with flashing
> sports light and check engine light for 5 years. It was getting bad
> enough that I was going to donate the car. Dealer wanted to
> put in a new transmission. A mechanic said he replaced the main
> rely.

Did he charge you for it?

> I finally took out the main relay myself and found bad solder
> joints exactly as pictured on several web sites. Bought a new one
> for $40 (too timid to try fixing solder myself). Problem is solved.

Until the new relay gets the same problem.

I believe that people who have resoldered their original relay have had no
failures since,but a new relay may develop the same fractures.

(makes me wonder if the relay maker used the right solder alloy for the
job???)


Now if you still have the old relay,you could find a friend who knows how
to solder and has the tools to re-do the old relay and keep it as a spare.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

jim beam

Jim Yanik wrote:
> Gene Wagenbreth <genewxxx@isi-OS4> wrote in news:f8d8a2$q0l@venera.isi.edu:
>
>> My thanks to this news group and several websites that decribe the
>> main relay problem. I had an intermittent problem with flashing
>> sports light and check engine light for 5 years. It was getting bad
>> enough that I was going to donate the car. Dealer wanted to
>> put in a new transmission. A mechanic said he replaced the main
>> rely.
>
> Did he charge you for it?
>
>> I finally took out the main relay myself and found bad solder
>> joints exactly as pictured on several web sites. Bought a new one
>> for $40 (too timid to try fixing solder myself). Problem is solved.
>
> Until the new relay gets the same problem.
>
> I believe that people who have resoldered their original relay have had no
> failures since,but a new relay may develop the same fractures.

i think that's just a matter of time. i doubt anyone that's re-soldered
has had that relay in operation for an additional 10+ years.

>
> (makes me wonder if the relay maker used the right solder alloy for the
> job???)

no, parts are subject to physical stress. a big no-no for solder
joints. bad design - depending on manufacturer objective!


>
>
> Now if you still have the old relay,you could find a friend who knows how
> to solder and has the tools to re-do the old relay and keep it as a spare.

indeed - need a higher wattage iron for that relay - some big copper
parts in there that will suck the heat out of a lesser iron and make
crappy joints.

jim beam

Jim Yanik wrote:
> Gene Wagenbreth <genewxxx@isi-OS4> wrote in news:f8d8a2$q0l@venera.isi.edu:
>
>> My thanks to this news group and several websites that decribe the
>> main relay problem. I had an intermittent problem with flashing
>> sports light and check engine light for 5 years. It was getting bad
>> enough that I was going to donate the car. Dealer wanted to
>> put in a new transmission. A mechanic said he replaced the main
>> rely.
>
> Did he charge you for it?
>
>> I finally took out the main relay myself and found bad solder
>> joints exactly as pictured on several web sites. Bought a new one
>> for $40 (too timid to try fixing solder myself). Problem is solved.
>
> Until the new relay gets the same problem.
>
> I believe that people who have resoldered their original relay have had no
> failures since,but a new relay may develop the same fractures.

i think that's just a matter of time. i doubt anyone that's re-soldered
has had that relay in operation for an additional 10+ years.

>
> (makes me wonder if the relay maker used the right solder alloy for the
> job???)

no, parts are subject to physical stress. a big no-no for solder
joints. bad design - depending on manufacturer objective!


>
>
> Now if you still have the old relay,you could find a friend who knows how
> to solder and has the tools to re-do the old relay and keep it as a spare.

indeed - need a higher wattage iron for that relay - some big copper
parts in there that will suck the heat out of a lesser iron and make
crappy joints.

jim beam

Jim Yanik wrote:
> Gene Wagenbreth <genewxxx@isi-OS4> wrote in news:f8d8a2$q0l@venera.isi.edu:
>
>> My thanks to this news group and several websites that decribe the
>> main relay problem. I had an intermittent problem with flashing
>> sports light and check engine light for 5 years. It was getting bad
>> enough that I was going to donate the car. Dealer wanted to
>> put in a new transmission. A mechanic said he replaced the main
>> rely.
>
> Did he charge you for it?
>
>> I finally took out the main relay myself and found bad solder
>> joints exactly as pictured on several web sites. Bought a new one
>> for $40 (too timid to try fixing solder myself). Problem is solved.
>
> Until the new relay gets the same problem.
>
> I believe that people who have resoldered their original relay have had no
> failures since,but a new relay may develop the same fractures.

i think that's just a matter of time. i doubt anyone that's re-soldered
has had that relay in operation for an additional 10+ years.

>
> (makes me wonder if the relay maker used the right solder alloy for the
> job???)

no, parts are subject to physical stress. a big no-no for solder
joints. bad design - depending on manufacturer objective!


>
>
> Now if you still have the old relay,you could find a friend who knows how
> to solder and has the tools to re-do the old relay and keep it as a spare.

indeed - need a higher wattage iron for that relay - some big copper
parts in there that will suck the heat out of a lesser iron and make
crappy joints.

jim beam

Gene Wagenbreth wrote:
> My thanks to this news group and several websites that decribe the
> main relay problem. I had an intermittent problem with flashing
> sports light and check engine light for 5 years. It was getting bad
> enough that I was going to donate the car. Dealer wanted to
> put in a new transmission. A mechanic said he replaced the main
> rely. I finally took out the main relay myself and found bad solder
> joints exactly as pictured on several web sites. Bought a new one
> for $40 (too timid to try fixing solder myself). Problem is solved.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> G

i second that. personally, i prefer to replace, but soldering
/definitely/ revives a sick honda most admirably.

jim beam

Gene Wagenbreth wrote:
> My thanks to this news group and several websites that decribe the
> main relay problem. I had an intermittent problem with flashing
> sports light and check engine light for 5 years. It was getting bad
> enough that I was going to donate the car. Dealer wanted to
> put in a new transmission. A mechanic said he replaced the main
> rely. I finally took out the main relay myself and found bad solder
> joints exactly as pictured on several web sites. Bought a new one
> for $40 (too timid to try fixing solder myself). Problem is solved.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> G

i second that. personally, i prefer to replace, but soldering
/definitely/ revives a sick honda most admirably.

jim beam

Gene Wagenbreth wrote:
> My thanks to this news group and several websites that decribe the
> main relay problem. I had an intermittent problem with flashing
> sports light and check engine light for 5 years. It was getting bad
> enough that I was going to donate the car. Dealer wanted to
> put in a new transmission. A mechanic said he replaced the main
> rely. I finally took out the main relay myself and found bad solder
> joints exactly as pictured on several web sites. Bought a new one
> for $40 (too timid to try fixing solder myself). Problem is solved.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> G

i second that. personally, i prefer to replace, but soldering
/definitely/ revives a sick honda most admirably.

Jim Yanik

jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:AIadnS5H0cTONjfbnZ2dnUVZ_q2hnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:

> Jim Yanik wrote:
>> Gene Wagenbreth <genewxxx@isi-OS4> wrote in
>> news:f8d8a2$q0l@venera.isi.edu:
>>
>>> My thanks to this news group and several websites that decribe the
>>> main relay problem. I had an intermittent problem with flashing
>>> sports light and check engine light for 5 years. It was getting bad
>>> enough that I was going to donate the car. Dealer wanted to
>>> put in a new transmission. A mechanic said he replaced the main
>>> rely.
>>
>> Did he charge you for it?
>>
>>> I finally took out the main relay myself and found bad solder
>>> joints exactly as pictured on several web sites. Bought a new one
>>> for $40 (too timid to try fixing solder myself). Problem is solved.
>>
>> Until the new relay gets the same problem.
>>
>> I believe that people who have resoldered their original relay have
>> had no failures since,but a new relay may develop the same fractures.
>
> i think that's just a matter of time. i doubt anyone that's
> re-soldered has had that relay in operation for an additional 10+
> years.

IIRC,some people here have had MR failures 6-7 yrs after purchase.

The MR on my 94 Integra GSR lasted longer than before it was re-soldered.
(and failed about at 7 yrs)

Too bad that car got stolen,stripped and torched last month. :-(

Now I have a 2003 Sentra SE-R Spec V.

>
>>
>> (makes me wonder if the relay maker used the right solder alloy for
>> the job???)
>
> no, parts are subject to physical stress. a big no-no for solder
> joints. bad design - depending on manufacturer objective!
>

I've been reading over on sci.electronics.design about the many different
solder alloys manufacturers use on wave-soldering lines;some will fracture
more easily than others,some may crystalize sooner.(and then fracture)
The new lead-free solders are even worse;lots of NEW consumer products with
fractured solder joints. Some solder alloys are not as ductile as others.
>
>>
>>
>> Now if you still have the old relay,you could find a friend who knows
>> how to solder and has the tools to re-do the old relay and keep it as
>> a spare.
>
> indeed - need a higher wattage iron for that relay - some big copper
> parts in there that will suck the heat out of a lesser iron and make
> crappy joints.
>

Yeah,I used a 60 W iron on mine.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Jim Yanik

jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:AIadnS5H0cTONjfbnZ2dnUVZ_q2hnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:

> Jim Yanik wrote:
>> Gene Wagenbreth <genewxxx@isi-OS4> wrote in
>> news:f8d8a2$q0l@venera.isi.edu:
>>
>>> My thanks to this news group and several websites that decribe the
>>> main relay problem. I had an intermittent problem with flashing
>>> sports light and check engine light for 5 years. It was getting bad
>>> enough that I was going to donate the car. Dealer wanted to
>>> put in a new transmission. A mechanic said he replaced the main
>>> rely.
>>
>> Did he charge you for it?
>>
>>> I finally took out the main relay myself and found bad solder
>>> joints exactly as pictured on several web sites. Bought a new one
>>> for $40 (too timid to try fixing solder myself). Problem is solved.
>>
>> Until the new relay gets the same problem.
>>
>> I believe that people who have resoldered their original relay have
>> had no failures since,but a new relay may develop the same fractures.
>
> i think that's just a matter of time. i doubt anyone that's
> re-soldered has had that relay in operation for an additional 10+
> years.

IIRC,some people here have had MR failures 6-7 yrs after purchase.

The MR on my 94 Integra GSR lasted longer than before it was re-soldered.
(and failed about at 7 yrs)

Too bad that car got stolen,stripped and torched last month. :-(

Now I have a 2003 Sentra SE-R Spec V.

>
>>
>> (makes me wonder if the relay maker used the right solder alloy for
>> the job???)
>
> no, parts are subject to physical stress. a big no-no for solder
> joints. bad design - depending on manufacturer objective!
>

I've been reading over on sci.electronics.design about the many different
solder alloys manufacturers use on wave-soldering lines;some will fracture
more easily than others,some may crystalize sooner.(and then fracture)
The new lead-free solders are even worse;lots of NEW consumer products with
fractured solder joints. Some solder alloys are not as ductile as others.
>
>>
>>
>> Now if you still have the old relay,you could find a friend who knows
>> how to solder and has the tools to re-do the old relay and keep it as
>> a spare.
>
> indeed - need a higher wattage iron for that relay - some big copper
> parts in there that will suck the heat out of a lesser iron and make
> crappy joints.
>

Yeah,I used a 60 W iron on mine.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Jim Yanik

jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:AIadnS5H0cTONjfbnZ2dnUVZ_q2hnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:

> Jim Yanik wrote:
>> Gene Wagenbreth <genewxxx@isi-OS4> wrote in
>> news:f8d8a2$q0l@venera.isi.edu:
>>
>>> My thanks to this news group and several websites that decribe the
>>> main relay problem. I had an intermittent problem with flashing
>>> sports light and check engine light for 5 years. It was getting bad
>>> enough that I was going to donate the car. Dealer wanted to
>>> put in a new transmission. A mechanic said he replaced the main
>>> rely.
>>
>> Did he charge you for it?
>>
>>> I finally took out the main relay myself and found bad solder
>>> joints exactly as pictured on several web sites. Bought a new one
>>> for $40 (too timid to try fixing solder myself). Problem is solved.
>>
>> Until the new relay gets the same problem.
>>
>> I believe that people who have resoldered their original relay have
>> had no failures since,but a new relay may develop the same fractures.
>
> i think that's just a matter of time. i doubt anyone that's
> re-soldered has had that relay in operation for an additional 10+
> years.

IIRC,some people here have had MR failures 6-7 yrs after purchase.

The MR on my 94 Integra GSR lasted longer than before it was re-soldered.
(and failed about at 7 yrs)

Too bad that car got stolen,stripped and torched last month. :-(

Now I have a 2003 Sentra SE-R Spec V.

>
>>
>> (makes me wonder if the relay maker used the right solder alloy for
>> the job???)
>
> no, parts are subject to physical stress. a big no-no for solder
> joints. bad design - depending on manufacturer objective!
>

I've been reading over on sci.electronics.design about the many different
solder alloys manufacturers use on wave-soldering lines;some will fracture
more easily than others,some may crystalize sooner.(and then fracture)
The new lead-free solders are even worse;lots of NEW consumer products with
fractured solder joints. Some solder alloys are not as ductile as others.
>
>>
>>
>> Now if you still have the old relay,you could find a friend who knows
>> how to solder and has the tools to re-do the old relay and keep it as
>> a spare.
>
> indeed - need a higher wattage iron for that relay - some big copper
> parts in there that will suck the heat out of a lesser iron and make
> crappy joints.
>

Yeah,I used a 60 W iron on mine.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

jim beam

Jim Yanik wrote:
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:AIadnS5H0cTONjfbnZ2dnUVZ_q2hnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
>> Jim Yanik wrote:
>>> Gene Wagenbreth <genewxxx@isi-OS4> wrote in
>>> news:f8d8a2$q0l@venera.isi.edu:
>>>
>>>> My thanks to this news group and several websites that decribe the
>>>> main relay problem. I had an intermittent problem with flashing
>>>> sports light and check engine light for 5 years. It was getting bad
>>>> enough that I was going to donate the car. Dealer wanted to
>>>> put in a new transmission. A mechanic said he replaced the main
>>>> rely.
>>> Did he charge you for it?
>>>
>>>> I finally took out the main relay myself and found bad solder
>>>> joints exactly as pictured on several web sites. Bought a new one
>>>> for $40 (too timid to try fixing solder myself). Problem is solved.
>>> Until the new relay gets the same problem.
>>>
>>> I believe that people who have resoldered their original relay have
>>> had no failures since,but a new relay may develop the same fractures.
>> i think that's just a matter of time. i doubt anyone that's
>> re-soldered has had that relay in operation for an additional 10+
>> years.
>
> IIRC,some people here have had MR failures 6-7 yrs after purchase.
>
> The MR on my 94 Integra GSR lasted longer than before it was re-soldered.
> (and failed about at 7 yrs)
>
> Too bad that car got stolen,stripped and torched last month. :-(

sad news indeed.

>
> Now I have a 2003 Sentra SE-R Spec V.

how does that compare?


>
>>> (makes me wonder if the relay maker used the right solder alloy for
>>> the job???)
>> no, parts are subject to physical stress. a big no-no for solder
>> joints. bad design - depending on manufacturer objective!
>>
>
> I've been reading over on sci.electronics.design about the many different
> solder alloys manufacturers use on wave-soldering lines;some will fracture
> more easily than others,some may crystalize sooner.(and then fracture)
> The new lead-free solders are even worse;lots of NEW consumer products with
> fractured solder joints. Some solder alloys are not as ductile as others.

true enough. eutectic tin/lead for me.


>>>
>>> Now if you still have the old relay,you could find a friend who knows
>>> how to solder and has the tools to re-do the old relay and keep it as
>>> a spare.
>> indeed - need a higher wattage iron for that relay - some big copper
>> parts in there that will suck the heat out of a lesser iron and make
>> crappy joints.
>>
>
> Yeah,I used a 60 W iron on mine.
>

perfect!

jim beam

Jim Yanik wrote:
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:AIadnS5H0cTONjfbnZ2dnUVZ_q2hnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
>> Jim Yanik wrote:
>>> Gene Wagenbreth <genewxxx@isi-OS4> wrote in
>>> news:f8d8a2$q0l@venera.isi.edu:
>>>
>>>> My thanks to this news group and several websites that decribe the
>>>> main relay problem. I had an intermittent problem with flashing
>>>> sports light and check engine light for 5 years. It was getting bad
>>>> enough that I was going to donate the car. Dealer wanted to
>>>> put in a new transmission. A mechanic said he replaced the main
>>>> rely.
>>> Did he charge you for it?
>>>
>>>> I finally took out the main relay myself and found bad solder
>>>> joints exactly as pictured on several web sites. Bought a new one
>>>> for $40 (too timid to try fixing solder myself). Problem is solved.
>>> Until the new relay gets the same problem.
>>>
>>> I believe that people who have resoldered their original relay have
>>> had no failures since,but a new relay may develop the same fractures.
>> i think that's just a matter of time. i doubt anyone that's
>> re-soldered has had that relay in operation for an additional 10+
>> years.
>
> IIRC,some people here have had MR failures 6-7 yrs after purchase.
>
> The MR on my 94 Integra GSR lasted longer than before it was re-soldered.
> (and failed about at 7 yrs)
>
> Too bad that car got stolen,stripped and torched last month. :-(

sad news indeed.

>
> Now I have a 2003 Sentra SE-R Spec V.

how does that compare?


>
>>> (makes me wonder if the relay maker used the right solder alloy for
>>> the job???)
>> no, parts are subject to physical stress. a big no-no for solder
>> joints. bad design - depending on manufacturer objective!
>>
>
> I've been reading over on sci.electronics.design about the many different
> solder alloys manufacturers use on wave-soldering lines;some will fracture
> more easily than others,some may crystalize sooner.(and then fracture)
> The new lead-free solders are even worse;lots of NEW consumer products with
> fractured solder joints. Some solder alloys are not as ductile as others.

true enough. eutectic tin/lead for me.


>>>
>>> Now if you still have the old relay,you could find a friend who knows
>>> how to solder and has the tools to re-do the old relay and keep it as
>>> a spare.
>> indeed - need a higher wattage iron for that relay - some big copper
>> parts in there that will suck the heat out of a lesser iron and make
>> crappy joints.
>>
>
> Yeah,I used a 60 W iron on mine.
>

perfect!