|
'95 Accord CV shafts
A friend has a '95 Accord wagon and has found both front CV shafts in
need of replacement. I told him he can use my shop to replace them and that I'll help; however I'm not experienced with Hondas at all and I just wanted to pop in here to ask if there are any special tools needed, or perhaps procedures to make it easier or to avoid problems, certain things to 'look for', etc. Or is it (like I'd expect) a pretty straightforward job? |
Re: '95 Accord CV shafts
"James Goforth" <jamiegoforth@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:22344-467E80EE-414@storefull-3276.bay.webtv.net... > A friend has a '95 Accord wagon and has found both front CV shafts in > need of replacement. > I told him he can use my shop to replace them and that I'll help; > however I'm not experienced with Hondas at all and I just wanted to pop > in here to ask if there are any special tools needed, or perhaps > procedures to make it easier or to avoid problems, certain things to > 'look for', etc. > Or is it (like I'd expect) a pretty straightforward job? > > It takes a couple of semi-special tools to do two parts of the job. First, the axle nut is not only staked on (meaning it will need a hammer and punch at least to unstake it) but it is supremely tight. It can be broken loose with a several foot breaker bar on a socket (the socket will also will not be in any normal socket set; it is more than 30 mm - sizes vary) and lots of inventive language, or with an impact driver and impact socket. I recommend renting an electric impact driver with socket unless money is *really* tight. It makes a hard job easy. Measure the axle nut; it will be an even number of mm. I've seen 34 and 36 mm. The other hard part is separating the ball joint to allow the hub to swing far enough out to get the axle loose. DO NOT use a "pickle fork" as it will almost certainly destroy the grease boot - those are only useful if the ball joint is not going to be reused. See TeGGeR's page at http://tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html for options. You may even be able to "borrow" a ball joint separator from Auto Zone - if they are around you - under their loan program. IIRC Checker Auto advertised the same program recently but I haven't checked it out. One last tip: when the old one is out and before putting the new one in, put them side by side and verify they are the same length in each section and overall and that the new one has or doesn't have a toothed ring for ABS pickup just inside the hub area, just like the old one. The two are not interchangeable... something you will find as you try to get the suspension back together. Mike |
Re: '95 Accord CV shafts
"James Goforth" <jamiegoforth@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:22344-467E80EE-414@storefull-3276.bay.webtv.net... > A friend has a '95 Accord wagon and has found both front CV shafts in > need of replacement. > I told him he can use my shop to replace them and that I'll help; > however I'm not experienced with Hondas at all and I just wanted to pop > in here to ask if there are any special tools needed, or perhaps > procedures to make it easier or to avoid problems, certain things to > 'look for', etc. > Or is it (like I'd expect) a pretty straightforward job? > > It takes a couple of semi-special tools to do two parts of the job. First, the axle nut is not only staked on (meaning it will need a hammer and punch at least to unstake it) but it is supremely tight. It can be broken loose with a several foot breaker bar on a socket (the socket will also will not be in any normal socket set; it is more than 30 mm - sizes vary) and lots of inventive language, or with an impact driver and impact socket. I recommend renting an electric impact driver with socket unless money is *really* tight. It makes a hard job easy. Measure the axle nut; it will be an even number of mm. I've seen 34 and 36 mm. The other hard part is separating the ball joint to allow the hub to swing far enough out to get the axle loose. DO NOT use a "pickle fork" as it will almost certainly destroy the grease boot - those are only useful if the ball joint is not going to be reused. See TeGGeR's page at http://tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html for options. You may even be able to "borrow" a ball joint separator from Auto Zone - if they are around you - under their loan program. IIRC Checker Auto advertised the same program recently but I haven't checked it out. One last tip: when the old one is out and before putting the new one in, put them side by side and verify they are the same length in each section and overall and that the new one has or doesn't have a toothed ring for ABS pickup just inside the hub area, just like the old one. The two are not interchangeable... something you will find as you try to get the suspension back together. Mike |
Re: '95 Accord CV shafts
"James Goforth" <jamiegoforth@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:22344-467E80EE-414@storefull-3276.bay.webtv.net... > A friend has a '95 Accord wagon and has found both front CV shafts in > need of replacement. > I told him he can use my shop to replace them and that I'll help; > however I'm not experienced with Hondas at all and I just wanted to pop > in here to ask if there are any special tools needed, or perhaps > procedures to make it easier or to avoid problems, certain things to > 'look for', etc. > Or is it (like I'd expect) a pretty straightforward job? > > It takes a couple of semi-special tools to do two parts of the job. First, the axle nut is not only staked on (meaning it will need a hammer and punch at least to unstake it) but it is supremely tight. It can be broken loose with a several foot breaker bar on a socket (the socket will also will not be in any normal socket set; it is more than 30 mm - sizes vary) and lots of inventive language, or with an impact driver and impact socket. I recommend renting an electric impact driver with socket unless money is *really* tight. It makes a hard job easy. Measure the axle nut; it will be an even number of mm. I've seen 34 and 36 mm. The other hard part is separating the ball joint to allow the hub to swing far enough out to get the axle loose. DO NOT use a "pickle fork" as it will almost certainly destroy the grease boot - those are only useful if the ball joint is not going to be reused. See TeGGeR's page at http://tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html for options. You may even be able to "borrow" a ball joint separator from Auto Zone - if they are around you - under their loan program. IIRC Checker Auto advertised the same program recently but I haven't checked it out. One last tip: when the old one is out and before putting the new one in, put them side by side and verify they are the same length in each section and overall and that the new one has or doesn't have a toothed ring for ABS pickup just inside the hub area, just like the old one. The two are not interchangeable... something you will find as you try to get the suspension back together. Mike |
Re: '95 Accord CV shafts
Michael Pardee wrote:
> "James Goforth" <jamiegoforth@webtv.net> wrote in message > news:22344-467E80EE-414@storefull-3276.bay.webtv.net... >> A friend has a '95 Accord wagon and has found both front CV shafts in >> need of replacement. >> I told him he can use my shop to replace them and that I'll help; >> however I'm not experienced with Hondas at all and I just wanted to pop >> in here to ask if there are any special tools needed, or perhaps >> procedures to make it easier or to avoid problems, certain things to >> 'look for', etc. >> Or is it (like I'd expect) a pretty straightforward job? >> >> > It takes a couple of semi-special tools to do two parts of the job. First, > the axle nut is not only staked on (meaning it will need a hammer and punch > at least to unstake it) but it is supremely tight. It can be broken loose > with a several foot breaker bar on a socket (the socket will also will not > be in any normal socket set; it is more than 30 mm - sizes vary) i think it's 32mm like most honda fwd's. > and lots of > inventive language, or with an impact driver and impact socket. I recommend > renting an electric impact driver with socket unless money is *really* > tight. It makes a hard job easy. Measure the axle nut; it will be an even > number of mm. I've seen 34 and 36 mm. or use a 3/4" drive breaker bar. just keep the wheel on the ground. > > The other hard part is separating the ball joint to allow the hub to swing > far enough out to get the axle loose. DO NOT use a "pickle fork" as it will > almost certainly destroy the grease boot - those are only useful if the ball > joint is not going to be reused. See TeGGeR's page at > http://tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html for options. You may even be able > to "borrow" a ball joint separator from Auto Zone - if they are around you - > under their loan program. IIRC Checker Auto advertised the same program > recently but I haven't checked it out. indeed. > > One last tip: when the old one is out and before putting the new one in, put > them side by side and verify they are the same length in each section and > overall and that the new one has or doesn't have a toothed ring for ABS > pickup just inside the hub area, just like the old one. The two are not > interchangeable... something you will find as you try to get the suspension > back together. well, you can't use untoothed on a vehicle that has an abs sensor, naturally, but you /can/ use toothed on a vehicle without sensor - if the other features are the same. the real deal is that there's a spline count change on the drive some time, but i think it's around '90. basically, as long as that's ok, you're set. |
Re: '95 Accord CV shafts
Michael Pardee wrote:
> "James Goforth" <jamiegoforth@webtv.net> wrote in message > news:22344-467E80EE-414@storefull-3276.bay.webtv.net... >> A friend has a '95 Accord wagon and has found both front CV shafts in >> need of replacement. >> I told him he can use my shop to replace them and that I'll help; >> however I'm not experienced with Hondas at all and I just wanted to pop >> in here to ask if there are any special tools needed, or perhaps >> procedures to make it easier or to avoid problems, certain things to >> 'look for', etc. >> Or is it (like I'd expect) a pretty straightforward job? >> >> > It takes a couple of semi-special tools to do two parts of the job. First, > the axle nut is not only staked on (meaning it will need a hammer and punch > at least to unstake it) but it is supremely tight. It can be broken loose > with a several foot breaker bar on a socket (the socket will also will not > be in any normal socket set; it is more than 30 mm - sizes vary) i think it's 32mm like most honda fwd's. > and lots of > inventive language, or with an impact driver and impact socket. I recommend > renting an electric impact driver with socket unless money is *really* > tight. It makes a hard job easy. Measure the axle nut; it will be an even > number of mm. I've seen 34 and 36 mm. or use a 3/4" drive breaker bar. just keep the wheel on the ground. > > The other hard part is separating the ball joint to allow the hub to swing > far enough out to get the axle loose. DO NOT use a "pickle fork" as it will > almost certainly destroy the grease boot - those are only useful if the ball > joint is not going to be reused. See TeGGeR's page at > http://tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html for options. You may even be able > to "borrow" a ball joint separator from Auto Zone - if they are around you - > under their loan program. IIRC Checker Auto advertised the same program > recently but I haven't checked it out. indeed. > > One last tip: when the old one is out and before putting the new one in, put > them side by side and verify they are the same length in each section and > overall and that the new one has or doesn't have a toothed ring for ABS > pickup just inside the hub area, just like the old one. The two are not > interchangeable... something you will find as you try to get the suspension > back together. well, you can't use untoothed on a vehicle that has an abs sensor, naturally, but you /can/ use toothed on a vehicle without sensor - if the other features are the same. the real deal is that there's a spline count change on the drive some time, but i think it's around '90. basically, as long as that's ok, you're set. |
Re: '95 Accord CV shafts
Michael Pardee wrote:
> "James Goforth" <jamiegoforth@webtv.net> wrote in message > news:22344-467E80EE-414@storefull-3276.bay.webtv.net... >> A friend has a '95 Accord wagon and has found both front CV shafts in >> need of replacement. >> I told him he can use my shop to replace them and that I'll help; >> however I'm not experienced with Hondas at all and I just wanted to pop >> in here to ask if there are any special tools needed, or perhaps >> procedures to make it easier or to avoid problems, certain things to >> 'look for', etc. >> Or is it (like I'd expect) a pretty straightforward job? >> >> > It takes a couple of semi-special tools to do two parts of the job. First, > the axle nut is not only staked on (meaning it will need a hammer and punch > at least to unstake it) but it is supremely tight. It can be broken loose > with a several foot breaker bar on a socket (the socket will also will not > be in any normal socket set; it is more than 30 mm - sizes vary) i think it's 32mm like most honda fwd's. > and lots of > inventive language, or with an impact driver and impact socket. I recommend > renting an electric impact driver with socket unless money is *really* > tight. It makes a hard job easy. Measure the axle nut; it will be an even > number of mm. I've seen 34 and 36 mm. or use a 3/4" drive breaker bar. just keep the wheel on the ground. > > The other hard part is separating the ball joint to allow the hub to swing > far enough out to get the axle loose. DO NOT use a "pickle fork" as it will > almost certainly destroy the grease boot - those are only useful if the ball > joint is not going to be reused. See TeGGeR's page at > http://tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html for options. You may even be able > to "borrow" a ball joint separator from Auto Zone - if they are around you - > under their loan program. IIRC Checker Auto advertised the same program > recently but I haven't checked it out. indeed. > > One last tip: when the old one is out and before putting the new one in, put > them side by side and verify they are the same length in each section and > overall and that the new one has or doesn't have a toothed ring for ABS > pickup just inside the hub area, just like the old one. The two are not > interchangeable... something you will find as you try to get the suspension > back together. well, you can't use untoothed on a vehicle that has an abs sensor, naturally, but you /can/ use toothed on a vehicle without sensor - if the other features are the same. the real deal is that there's a spline count change on the drive some time, but i think it's around '90. basically, as long as that's ok, you're set. |
Re: '95 Accord CV shafts
"jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
news:XYydnVAljsB1COPbnZ2dnUVZ_qOpnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t... > > i think it's 32mm like most honda fwd's. > I have a 32 and a 36 impact socket (I was mistaken about the 34). One fits a '93 Accord and the other fits a '94 Integra. I don't recall which is which. Mike |
Re: '95 Accord CV shafts
"jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
news:XYydnVAljsB1COPbnZ2dnUVZ_qOpnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t... > > i think it's 32mm like most honda fwd's. > I have a 32 and a 36 impact socket (I was mistaken about the 34). One fits a '93 Accord and the other fits a '94 Integra. I don't recall which is which. Mike |
Re: '95 Accord CV shafts
"jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
news:XYydnVAljsB1COPbnZ2dnUVZ_qOpnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t... > > i think it's 32mm like most honda fwd's. > I have a 32 and a 36 impact socket (I was mistaken about the 34). One fits a '93 Accord and the other fits a '94 Integra. I don't recall which is which. Mike |
Re: '95 Accord CV shafts
Michael Pardee wrote:
> "James Goforth" <jamiegoforth@webtv.net> wrote in message > >> A friend has a '95 Accord wagon and has found both front CV shafts in >>need of replacement. >> I told him he can use my shop to replace them and that I'll help; >>however I'm not experienced with Hondas at all and I just wanted to pop >>in here to ask if there are any special tools needed, or perhaps >>procedures to make it easier or to avoid problems, certain things to >>'look for', etc. >> Or is it (like I'd expect) a pretty straightforward job? > It takes a couple of semi-special tools to do two parts of the job. First, > the axle nut is not only staked on (meaning it will need a hammer and punch > at least to unstake it) but it is supremely tight. It can be broken loose > with a several foot breaker bar on a socket (the socket will also will not > be in any normal socket set; it is more than 30 mm - sizes vary) and lots of > inventive language, or with an impact driver and impact socket. I recommend > renting an electric impact driver with socket unless money is *really* > tight. It makes a hard job easy. Measure the axle nut; it will be an even > number of mm. I've seen 34 and 36 mm. If you go the breaker bar route, take the trouble to find a 3/4 inch specimen. Having changed two 92 accord axles recently, I can say with some authority that a 1/2 breaker bar will likely....break. After killing one bar, I drown the nut in penetrating lubricant - it didn't seem to do a dang thing, and I broke the next, more heavily built, bar (admittedly, it was a $10 Harbor Freight lump.) Looking around, I could't find a 36mm (your size may vary) socket in 3/4, so I eventually bought a cheap air compresser and impact wrench at the local Big Box. (they had a sale on a nice Ingersol gun + 3/8 wrench kit.) 5 seconds of full reverse and that #%^$@ nut was off. I've heard stories of the less robust electric guns not getting it done. Rent the bigest one you can find. Depending on the rental shop, you might even sweet talk them into a "5 minute rental" for cheap. Buz the nut loose, then you can then tighten it with the bar, drive home, and easily remove it to do the work. Along the same lines, if you have a regular mechanic, he will probably buz the thing loose for a few bucks. I had a hell of a time convincing the local shops that a loose nut wouldn't wreck the bearings or fall off within 5 seconds. YMMV. > The other hard part is separating the ball joint to allow the hub to swing > far enough out to get the axle loose. DO NOT use a "pickle fork" as it will > almost certainly destroy the grease boot - those are only useful if the ball > joint is not going to be reused. See TeGGeR's page at > http://tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html for options. You may even be able > to "borrow" a ball joint separator from Auto Zone - if they are around you - > under their loan program. IIRC Checker Auto advertised the same program > recently but I haven't checked it out. There is one more tool to look into. Buy a short, wide, pry bar to pop the axle out of the transmission. The retaining circlip can put up a bit of a fight. Another tip: Jack both sides off the ground OR remove the sway bar linkage. Otherwise the bar will fight you as you try to move the lower control arm down and off the ball joint. -Greg |
Re: '95 Accord CV shafts
Michael Pardee wrote:
> "James Goforth" <jamiegoforth@webtv.net> wrote in message > >> A friend has a '95 Accord wagon and has found both front CV shafts in >>need of replacement. >> I told him he can use my shop to replace them and that I'll help; >>however I'm not experienced with Hondas at all and I just wanted to pop >>in here to ask if there are any special tools needed, or perhaps >>procedures to make it easier or to avoid problems, certain things to >>'look for', etc. >> Or is it (like I'd expect) a pretty straightforward job? > It takes a couple of semi-special tools to do two parts of the job. First, > the axle nut is not only staked on (meaning it will need a hammer and punch > at least to unstake it) but it is supremely tight. It can be broken loose > with a several foot breaker bar on a socket (the socket will also will not > be in any normal socket set; it is more than 30 mm - sizes vary) and lots of > inventive language, or with an impact driver and impact socket. I recommend > renting an electric impact driver with socket unless money is *really* > tight. It makes a hard job easy. Measure the axle nut; it will be an even > number of mm. I've seen 34 and 36 mm. If you go the breaker bar route, take the trouble to find a 3/4 inch specimen. Having changed two 92 accord axles recently, I can say with some authority that a 1/2 breaker bar will likely....break. After killing one bar, I drown the nut in penetrating lubricant - it didn't seem to do a dang thing, and I broke the next, more heavily built, bar (admittedly, it was a $10 Harbor Freight lump.) Looking around, I could't find a 36mm (your size may vary) socket in 3/4, so I eventually bought a cheap air compresser and impact wrench at the local Big Box. (they had a sale on a nice Ingersol gun + 3/8 wrench kit.) 5 seconds of full reverse and that #%^$@ nut was off. I've heard stories of the less robust electric guns not getting it done. Rent the bigest one you can find. Depending on the rental shop, you might even sweet talk them into a "5 minute rental" for cheap. Buz the nut loose, then you can then tighten it with the bar, drive home, and easily remove it to do the work. Along the same lines, if you have a regular mechanic, he will probably buz the thing loose for a few bucks. I had a hell of a time convincing the local shops that a loose nut wouldn't wreck the bearings or fall off within 5 seconds. YMMV. > The other hard part is separating the ball joint to allow the hub to swing > far enough out to get the axle loose. DO NOT use a "pickle fork" as it will > almost certainly destroy the grease boot - those are only useful if the ball > joint is not going to be reused. See TeGGeR's page at > http://tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html for options. You may even be able > to "borrow" a ball joint separator from Auto Zone - if they are around you - > under their loan program. IIRC Checker Auto advertised the same program > recently but I haven't checked it out. There is one more tool to look into. Buy a short, wide, pry bar to pop the axle out of the transmission. The retaining circlip can put up a bit of a fight. Another tip: Jack both sides off the ground OR remove the sway bar linkage. Otherwise the bar will fight you as you try to move the lower control arm down and off the ball joint. -Greg |
Re: '95 Accord CV shafts
Michael Pardee wrote:
> "James Goforth" <jamiegoforth@webtv.net> wrote in message > >> A friend has a '95 Accord wagon and has found both front CV shafts in >>need of replacement. >> I told him he can use my shop to replace them and that I'll help; >>however I'm not experienced with Hondas at all and I just wanted to pop >>in here to ask if there are any special tools needed, or perhaps >>procedures to make it easier or to avoid problems, certain things to >>'look for', etc. >> Or is it (like I'd expect) a pretty straightforward job? > It takes a couple of semi-special tools to do two parts of the job. First, > the axle nut is not only staked on (meaning it will need a hammer and punch > at least to unstake it) but it is supremely tight. It can be broken loose > with a several foot breaker bar on a socket (the socket will also will not > be in any normal socket set; it is more than 30 mm - sizes vary) and lots of > inventive language, or with an impact driver and impact socket. I recommend > renting an electric impact driver with socket unless money is *really* > tight. It makes a hard job easy. Measure the axle nut; it will be an even > number of mm. I've seen 34 and 36 mm. If you go the breaker bar route, take the trouble to find a 3/4 inch specimen. Having changed two 92 accord axles recently, I can say with some authority that a 1/2 breaker bar will likely....break. After killing one bar, I drown the nut in penetrating lubricant - it didn't seem to do a dang thing, and I broke the next, more heavily built, bar (admittedly, it was a $10 Harbor Freight lump.) Looking around, I could't find a 36mm (your size may vary) socket in 3/4, so I eventually bought a cheap air compresser and impact wrench at the local Big Box. (they had a sale on a nice Ingersol gun + 3/8 wrench kit.) 5 seconds of full reverse and that #%^$@ nut was off. I've heard stories of the less robust electric guns not getting it done. Rent the bigest one you can find. Depending on the rental shop, you might even sweet talk them into a "5 minute rental" for cheap. Buz the nut loose, then you can then tighten it with the bar, drive home, and easily remove it to do the work. Along the same lines, if you have a regular mechanic, he will probably buz the thing loose for a few bucks. I had a hell of a time convincing the local shops that a loose nut wouldn't wreck the bearings or fall off within 5 seconds. YMMV. > The other hard part is separating the ball joint to allow the hub to swing > far enough out to get the axle loose. DO NOT use a "pickle fork" as it will > almost certainly destroy the grease boot - those are only useful if the ball > joint is not going to be reused. See TeGGeR's page at > http://tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html for options. You may even be able > to "borrow" a ball joint separator from Auto Zone - if they are around you - > under their loan program. IIRC Checker Auto advertised the same program > recently but I haven't checked it out. There is one more tool to look into. Buy a short, wide, pry bar to pop the axle out of the transmission. The retaining circlip can put up a bit of a fight. Another tip: Jack both sides off the ground OR remove the sway bar linkage. Otherwise the bar will fight you as you try to move the lower control arm down and off the ball joint. -Greg |
Re: '95 Accord CV shafts
James Goforth wrote:
> A friend has a '95 Accord wagon and has found both front CV shafts in > need of replacement. One more word of advice. Avoid the $80 rebuilt shafts. Look for remanufactured HONDA shafts (from the $tealership), visit raxles.com, or, at the very least, get new aftermarket. (The 'Cardone Select' line supposedly uses brand new joints.) The cheap remanufactured units invariably shred themselve within 50~100K miles, often sooner. -Greg |
Re: '95 Accord CV shafts
James Goforth wrote:
> A friend has a '95 Accord wagon and has found both front CV shafts in > need of replacement. One more word of advice. Avoid the $80 rebuilt shafts. Look for remanufactured HONDA shafts (from the $tealership), visit raxles.com, or, at the very least, get new aftermarket. (The 'Cardone Select' line supposedly uses brand new joints.) The cheap remanufactured units invariably shred themselve within 50~100K miles, often sooner. -Greg |
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