98 civic brake drag issue
08-27-2007, 12:26 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
98 civic brake drag issue
Good evening,
As indicated in another post the other day, the fuel mileage in my 98 civic
is lacking. I've had it since new, it now has 282000kms on it. It has been
somewhat neglected over the past year or so, as we've had a kid and my spare
time is now dedicated to that. I know I know, I need to keep the jalopy safe
enough to drive. Explain that to my wife.
Decided to check the brakes today, (front side). Sure enough, the front
driverside is dragging. I put the car up on jacks, started it and put it in
second. Until I hit the gas, only the passenger side wheel would turn.
Other symptoms, which may or may not be related, are that I am getting
abnormal tire wear on the passenger side. That tire is cupped beyond what I
have ever seen, and is now through the wear bars. The tire on the driver
side is fine with about 2-3mm before the wear bars.
Also noticed a hum coming from the front of the vehicle which becomes
apparent upon moving.
Note that I have replaced the caliper with a rebuilt to solve almost the same
problem a year or so ago. However, the rebuild was not from Honda, and the
hardware provided with it did not fit. I had to use my old hardware to
complete. All seemed fine since recently noticing the fuel economy drop.
To remedy these problems, I am thinking about the following:
1. New brake pad shims and hardware for the caliper in question (probably
both, just to be thorough).
2. Complete brake fluid flush.
3. Check slide pins for wear.
4. Replace wheel bearings? (not sure on this, there is some end play, could
a dragging caliper cause the bearing to fail?)
Any other suggestions?
Thanks for your help.
Terry in Winnipeg.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1
As indicated in another post the other day, the fuel mileage in my 98 civic
is lacking. I've had it since new, it now has 282000kms on it. It has been
somewhat neglected over the past year or so, as we've had a kid and my spare
time is now dedicated to that. I know I know, I need to keep the jalopy safe
enough to drive. Explain that to my wife.
Decided to check the brakes today, (front side). Sure enough, the front
driverside is dragging. I put the car up on jacks, started it and put it in
second. Until I hit the gas, only the passenger side wheel would turn.
Other symptoms, which may or may not be related, are that I am getting
abnormal tire wear on the passenger side. That tire is cupped beyond what I
have ever seen, and is now through the wear bars. The tire on the driver
side is fine with about 2-3mm before the wear bars.
Also noticed a hum coming from the front of the vehicle which becomes
apparent upon moving.
Note that I have replaced the caliper with a rebuilt to solve almost the same
problem a year or so ago. However, the rebuild was not from Honda, and the
hardware provided with it did not fit. I had to use my old hardware to
complete. All seemed fine since recently noticing the fuel economy drop.
To remedy these problems, I am thinking about the following:
1. New brake pad shims and hardware for the caliper in question (probably
both, just to be thorough).
2. Complete brake fluid flush.
3. Check slide pins for wear.
4. Replace wheel bearings? (not sure on this, there is some end play, could
a dragging caliper cause the bearing to fail?)
Any other suggestions?
Thanks for your help.
Terry in Winnipeg.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1
08-27-2007, 07:21 AM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 98 civic brake drag issue
"loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote in news:774dcb47621eb@uwe:
> Good evening,
>
> As indicated in another post the other day, the fuel mileage in my 98
> civic is lacking. I've had it since new, it now has 282000kms on it.
> It has been somewhat neglected over the past year or so, as we've had
> a kid and my spare time is now dedicated to that. I know I know, I
> need to keep the jalopy safe enough to drive. Explain that to my
> wife.
>
> Decided to check the brakes today, (front side). Sure enough, the
> front driverside is dragging. I put the car up on jacks, started it
> and put it in second. Until I hit the gas, only the passenger side
> wheel would turn.
Check -- according to the instructions on my Web site -- in order:
1) Pads seized on mount bracket,
2) Slide pins seized in bores,
3) Caliper piston seized in bore.
You need to pull the brakes apart completely and do a thorough
investigation. The usual suspect in the case of a disc brake not
releasing is a seized caliper piston (the big one that presses on the
pads), but often the rest of the caliper system is in need of care as
well.
>
> Other symptoms, which may or may not be related, are that I am getting
> abnormal tire wear on the passenger side. That tire is cupped beyond
> what I have ever seen, and is now through the wear bars. The tire on
> the driver side is fine with about 2-3mm before the wear bars.
Wear like this CAN be due to worn suspension components, but is usually
badly mounted tire or suspension misalignment, with poor tire mounting
covering about 90% of the occurrences.
>
> Also noticed a hum coming from the front of the vehicle which becomes
> apparent upon moving.
That's the cupping you hear.
>
> Note that I have replaced the caliper with a rebuilt to solve almost
> the same problem a year or so ago. However, the rebuild was not from
> Honda, and the hardware provided with it did not fit. I had to use my
> old hardware to complete. All seemed fine since recently noticing the
> fuel economy drop.
You can rebuild your own front calipers. The dealership sells the seals,
and some Sil-Glyde silicone-based grease can be used as an assembly
lube. (DON'T use brake fluid to lube the hydraulic seal).
>
> To remedy these problems, I am thinking about the following:
>
> 1. New brake pad shims and hardware for the caliper in question
> (probably both, just to be thorough).
See above.
>
> 2. Complete brake fluid flush.
BLEED and FILL only! Do not use flushig compounds!
And if you've not been in the habit of changing the fluid every few
years, do not use the "pedal press" method of bleeding. Beware of seized
bleed nipples. Crack one of those off and you need a complete rebuild.
>
> 3. Check slide pins for wear.
>
> 4. Replace wheel bearings? (not sure on this, there is some end
> play, could a dragging caliper cause the bearing to fail?)
Unlikely unless the hub is getting red ot on you.
>
> Any other suggestions?
Spend some time here:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/brakes1.html
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
> Good evening,
>
> As indicated in another post the other day, the fuel mileage in my 98
> civic is lacking. I've had it since new, it now has 282000kms on it.
> It has been somewhat neglected over the past year or so, as we've had
> a kid and my spare time is now dedicated to that. I know I know, I
> need to keep the jalopy safe enough to drive. Explain that to my
> wife.
>
> Decided to check the brakes today, (front side). Sure enough, the
> front driverside is dragging. I put the car up on jacks, started it
> and put it in second. Until I hit the gas, only the passenger side
> wheel would turn.
Check -- according to the instructions on my Web site -- in order:
1) Pads seized on mount bracket,
2) Slide pins seized in bores,
3) Caliper piston seized in bore.
You need to pull the brakes apart completely and do a thorough
investigation. The usual suspect in the case of a disc brake not
releasing is a seized caliper piston (the big one that presses on the
pads), but often the rest of the caliper system is in need of care as
well.
>
> Other symptoms, which may or may not be related, are that I am getting
> abnormal tire wear on the passenger side. That tire is cupped beyond
> what I have ever seen, and is now through the wear bars. The tire on
> the driver side is fine with about 2-3mm before the wear bars.
Wear like this CAN be due to worn suspension components, but is usually
badly mounted tire or suspension misalignment, with poor tire mounting
covering about 90% of the occurrences.
>
> Also noticed a hum coming from the front of the vehicle which becomes
> apparent upon moving.
That's the cupping you hear.
>
> Note that I have replaced the caliper with a rebuilt to solve almost
> the same problem a year or so ago. However, the rebuild was not from
> Honda, and the hardware provided with it did not fit. I had to use my
> old hardware to complete. All seemed fine since recently noticing the
> fuel economy drop.
You can rebuild your own front calipers. The dealership sells the seals,
and some Sil-Glyde silicone-based grease can be used as an assembly
lube. (DON'T use brake fluid to lube the hydraulic seal).
>
> To remedy these problems, I am thinking about the following:
>
> 1. New brake pad shims and hardware for the caliper in question
> (probably both, just to be thorough).
See above.
>
> 2. Complete brake fluid flush.
BLEED and FILL only! Do not use flushig compounds!
And if you've not been in the habit of changing the fluid every few
years, do not use the "pedal press" method of bleeding. Beware of seized
bleed nipples. Crack one of those off and you need a complete rebuild.
>
> 3. Check slide pins for wear.
>
> 4. Replace wheel bearings? (not sure on this, there is some end
> play, could a dragging caliper cause the bearing to fail?)
Unlikely unless the hub is getting red ot on you.
>
> Any other suggestions?
Spend some time here:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/brakes1.html
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
08-27-2007, 07:21 AM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 98 civic brake drag issue
"loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote in news:774dcb47621eb@uwe:
> Good evening,
>
> As indicated in another post the other day, the fuel mileage in my 98
> civic is lacking. I've had it since new, it now has 282000kms on it.
> It has been somewhat neglected over the past year or so, as we've had
> a kid and my spare time is now dedicated to that. I know I know, I
> need to keep the jalopy safe enough to drive. Explain that to my
> wife.
>
> Decided to check the brakes today, (front side). Sure enough, the
> front driverside is dragging. I put the car up on jacks, started it
> and put it in second. Until I hit the gas, only the passenger side
> wheel would turn.
Check -- according to the instructions on my Web site -- in order:
1) Pads seized on mount bracket,
2) Slide pins seized in bores,
3) Caliper piston seized in bore.
You need to pull the brakes apart completely and do a thorough
investigation. The usual suspect in the case of a disc brake not
releasing is a seized caliper piston (the big one that presses on the
pads), but often the rest of the caliper system is in need of care as
well.
>
> Other symptoms, which may or may not be related, are that I am getting
> abnormal tire wear on the passenger side. That tire is cupped beyond
> what I have ever seen, and is now through the wear bars. The tire on
> the driver side is fine with about 2-3mm before the wear bars.
Wear like this CAN be due to worn suspension components, but is usually
badly mounted tire or suspension misalignment, with poor tire mounting
covering about 90% of the occurrences.
>
> Also noticed a hum coming from the front of the vehicle which becomes
> apparent upon moving.
That's the cupping you hear.
>
> Note that I have replaced the caliper with a rebuilt to solve almost
> the same problem a year or so ago. However, the rebuild was not from
> Honda, and the hardware provided with it did not fit. I had to use my
> old hardware to complete. All seemed fine since recently noticing the
> fuel economy drop.
You can rebuild your own front calipers. The dealership sells the seals,
and some Sil-Glyde silicone-based grease can be used as an assembly
lube. (DON'T use brake fluid to lube the hydraulic seal).
>
> To remedy these problems, I am thinking about the following:
>
> 1. New brake pad shims and hardware for the caliper in question
> (probably both, just to be thorough).
See above.
>
> 2. Complete brake fluid flush.
BLEED and FILL only! Do not use flushig compounds!
And if you've not been in the habit of changing the fluid every few
years, do not use the "pedal press" method of bleeding. Beware of seized
bleed nipples. Crack one of those off and you need a complete rebuild.
>
> 3. Check slide pins for wear.
>
> 4. Replace wheel bearings? (not sure on this, there is some end
> play, could a dragging caliper cause the bearing to fail?)
Unlikely unless the hub is getting red ot on you.
>
> Any other suggestions?
Spend some time here:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/brakes1.html
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
> Good evening,
>
> As indicated in another post the other day, the fuel mileage in my 98
> civic is lacking. I've had it since new, it now has 282000kms on it.
> It has been somewhat neglected over the past year or so, as we've had
> a kid and my spare time is now dedicated to that. I know I know, I
> need to keep the jalopy safe enough to drive. Explain that to my
> wife.
>
> Decided to check the brakes today, (front side). Sure enough, the
> front driverside is dragging. I put the car up on jacks, started it
> and put it in second. Until I hit the gas, only the passenger side
> wheel would turn.
Check -- according to the instructions on my Web site -- in order:
1) Pads seized on mount bracket,
2) Slide pins seized in bores,
3) Caliper piston seized in bore.
You need to pull the brakes apart completely and do a thorough
investigation. The usual suspect in the case of a disc brake not
releasing is a seized caliper piston (the big one that presses on the
pads), but often the rest of the caliper system is in need of care as
well.
>
> Other symptoms, which may or may not be related, are that I am getting
> abnormal tire wear on the passenger side. That tire is cupped beyond
> what I have ever seen, and is now through the wear bars. The tire on
> the driver side is fine with about 2-3mm before the wear bars.
Wear like this CAN be due to worn suspension components, but is usually
badly mounted tire or suspension misalignment, with poor tire mounting
covering about 90% of the occurrences.
>
> Also noticed a hum coming from the front of the vehicle which becomes
> apparent upon moving.
That's the cupping you hear.
>
> Note that I have replaced the caliper with a rebuilt to solve almost
> the same problem a year or so ago. However, the rebuild was not from
> Honda, and the hardware provided with it did not fit. I had to use my
> old hardware to complete. All seemed fine since recently noticing the
> fuel economy drop.
You can rebuild your own front calipers. The dealership sells the seals,
and some Sil-Glyde silicone-based grease can be used as an assembly
lube. (DON'T use brake fluid to lube the hydraulic seal).
>
> To remedy these problems, I am thinking about the following:
>
> 1. New brake pad shims and hardware for the caliper in question
> (probably both, just to be thorough).
See above.
>
> 2. Complete brake fluid flush.
BLEED and FILL only! Do not use flushig compounds!
And if you've not been in the habit of changing the fluid every few
years, do not use the "pedal press" method of bleeding. Beware of seized
bleed nipples. Crack one of those off and you need a complete rebuild.
>
> 3. Check slide pins for wear.
>
> 4. Replace wheel bearings? (not sure on this, there is some end
> play, could a dragging caliper cause the bearing to fail?)
Unlikely unless the hub is getting red ot on you.
>
> Any other suggestions?
Spend some time here:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/brakes1.html
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
08-28-2007, 12:02 AM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 98 civic brake drag issue
Thanks Tegger for your hard work on that website and input.
So I replaced the Brake Caliper again. Got it from Partsource. I know this
is not a preferred source, but thats where the original replacement came from,
and they asked me to try this before they would refund my money.
This time, the clips and hardware that came with the caliper actually worked.
As I mentioned earlier, I figured that would be one of the biggest reasons
why the brake was hanging in the first place. Sure enough, upon disassembly
of the caliper bracket, the old clips were in very sorry shape.
Got it all installed, lubed her up as you indicated (careful not to get any
on the rotor surface or surrounding areas).
On another topic, as I indicated earlier, I have now confirmed that the front
wheel bearing is bad on the same side the caliper was dragging. Since the
caliper was defective, do you think Partsource will help me out on the
bearing? Pretty sure the reason it failed was due to heat buildup from the
bad caliper. I guess there is a margin for installation error, but is it
worth a shot?
So then I bled out the new caliper. Took it for a short spin to try some low
speed braking to check for pulling left or right, performance, all seemed
fine. Tried a couple higher speed stops, no problem.
On the highway at 80 km/h I hit the brakes pretty hard. The car suddenly
went all squirrelly on me, got away from me, and I ended up in the ditch.
So now I have other issues. I am OK by the way. The car is mostly undamaged.
It definitely needs an alignment now, along with a few suspension components.
I noticed my rear upper suspension mounts are now both loose. Will replace
those tomorrow. Here's what I checked over:
1. Both lower ball joints are under a year old. They seem fine using the
'reef on the tire while on the ground' method.
2. Both Upper ball joints - no extra play. Tried moving the steering
knuckle back and forth to test this.
3. Tie rods - no extra play. Just grabbed one and tried moving back and
forth. There is a small amount of play due to a worn steering u-joint, but
the tie rods and rack seem OK.
4. Springs all around. - no problems apparent. Visual inspection in the
areas Tegger indicated.
5. Rear upper control arms - both are shot. Once again, the 'reef on the
tire' method. LOTS of play here. They are definitely shot. The Rear Upper
arm does come with both bushings (inner and outer) so I am hoping this will
fix that.
6. Rear Lower control arms - no noticeable play. Wasn't quite sure how to
test these, but everything appeared tight.
Did I miss anything?
The car doesn't feel safe at highway speeds right now, though the steering
seems fine. I'm thinking its the play from the rear upper arms that is
causing the problem here.
So, to anybody reading this, when doing your own brake work, BE CAREFUL when
you road test your vehicle. I was EXTREMELY lucky. and probably stupid. OK
definitely stupid.
Any input on the suspension inspection is appreciated. Once the car is road
worthy, she goes in for a final inspection and alignment at the dealer.
Glad I can smile about it now.
Terry in Winnipeg.
Tegger wrote:
>> Good evening,
>>
>[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>> and put it in second. Until I hit the gas, only the passenger side
>> wheel would turn.
>
>Check -- according to the instructions on my Web site -- in order:
>1) Pads seized on mount bracket,
>2) Slide pins seized in bores,
>3) Caliper piston seized in bore.
>
>You need to pull the brakes apart completely and do a thorough
>investigation. The usual suspect in the case of a disc brake not
>releasing is a seized caliper piston (the big one that presses on the
>pads), but often the rest of the caliper system is in need of care as
>well.
>
>> Other symptoms, which may or may not be related, are that I am getting
>> abnormal tire wear on the passenger side. That tire is cupped beyond
>> what I have ever seen, and is now through the wear bars. The tire on
>> the driver side is fine with about 2-3mm before the wear bars.
>
>Wear like this CAN be due to worn suspension components, but is usually
>badly mounted tire or suspension misalignment, with poor tire mounting
>covering about 90% of the occurrences.
>
>> Also noticed a hum coming from the front of the vehicle which becomes
>> apparent upon moving.
>
>That's the cupping you hear.
>
>> Note that I have replaced the caliper with a rebuilt to solve almost
>> the same problem a year or so ago. However, the rebuild was not from
>> Honda, and the hardware provided with it did not fit. I had to use my
>> old hardware to complete. All seemed fine since recently noticing the
>> fuel economy drop.
>
>You can rebuild your own front calipers. The dealership sells the seals,
>and some Sil-Glyde silicone-based grease can be used as an assembly
>lube. (DON'T use brake fluid to lube the hydraulic seal).
>
>
>
>> To remedy these problems, I am thinking about the following:
>>
>> 1. New brake pad shims and hardware for the caliper in question
>> (probably both, just to be thorough).
>
>See above.
>
>> 2. Complete brake fluid flush.
>
>BLEED and FILL only! Do not use flushig compounds!
>
>And if you've not been in the habit of changing the fluid every few
>years, do not use the "pedal press" method of bleeding. Beware of seized
>bleed nipples. Crack one of those off and you need a complete rebuild.
>
>> 3. Check slide pins for wear.
>>
>> 4. Replace wheel bearings? (not sure on this, there is some end
>> play, could a dragging caliper cause the bearing to fail?)
>
>Unlikely unless the hub is getting red ot on you.
>
>> Any other suggestions?
>
>Spend some time here:
>http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/brakes1.html
>
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1
So I replaced the Brake Caliper again. Got it from Partsource. I know this
is not a preferred source, but thats where the original replacement came from,
and they asked me to try this before they would refund my money.
This time, the clips and hardware that came with the caliper actually worked.
As I mentioned earlier, I figured that would be one of the biggest reasons
why the brake was hanging in the first place. Sure enough, upon disassembly
of the caliper bracket, the old clips were in very sorry shape.
Got it all installed, lubed her up as you indicated (careful not to get any
on the rotor surface or surrounding areas).
On another topic, as I indicated earlier, I have now confirmed that the front
wheel bearing is bad on the same side the caliper was dragging. Since the
caliper was defective, do you think Partsource will help me out on the
bearing? Pretty sure the reason it failed was due to heat buildup from the
bad caliper. I guess there is a margin for installation error, but is it
worth a shot?
So then I bled out the new caliper. Took it for a short spin to try some low
speed braking to check for pulling left or right, performance, all seemed
fine. Tried a couple higher speed stops, no problem.
On the highway at 80 km/h I hit the brakes pretty hard. The car suddenly
went all squirrelly on me, got away from me, and I ended up in the ditch.
So now I have other issues. I am OK by the way. The car is mostly undamaged.
It definitely needs an alignment now, along with a few suspension components.
I noticed my rear upper suspension mounts are now both loose. Will replace
those tomorrow. Here's what I checked over:
1. Both lower ball joints are under a year old. They seem fine using the
'reef on the tire while on the ground' method.
2. Both Upper ball joints - no extra play. Tried moving the steering
knuckle back and forth to test this.
3. Tie rods - no extra play. Just grabbed one and tried moving back and
forth. There is a small amount of play due to a worn steering u-joint, but
the tie rods and rack seem OK.
4. Springs all around. - no problems apparent. Visual inspection in the
areas Tegger indicated.
5. Rear upper control arms - both are shot. Once again, the 'reef on the
tire' method. LOTS of play here. They are definitely shot. The Rear Upper
arm does come with both bushings (inner and outer) so I am hoping this will
fix that.
6. Rear Lower control arms - no noticeable play. Wasn't quite sure how to
test these, but everything appeared tight.
Did I miss anything?
The car doesn't feel safe at highway speeds right now, though the steering
seems fine. I'm thinking its the play from the rear upper arms that is
causing the problem here.
So, to anybody reading this, when doing your own brake work, BE CAREFUL when
you road test your vehicle. I was EXTREMELY lucky. and probably stupid. OK
definitely stupid.
Any input on the suspension inspection is appreciated. Once the car is road
worthy, she goes in for a final inspection and alignment at the dealer.
Glad I can smile about it now.
Terry in Winnipeg.
Tegger wrote:
>> Good evening,
>>
>[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>> and put it in second. Until I hit the gas, only the passenger side
>> wheel would turn.
>
>Check -- according to the instructions on my Web site -- in order:
>1) Pads seized on mount bracket,
>2) Slide pins seized in bores,
>3) Caliper piston seized in bore.
>
>You need to pull the brakes apart completely and do a thorough
>investigation. The usual suspect in the case of a disc brake not
>releasing is a seized caliper piston (the big one that presses on the
>pads), but often the rest of the caliper system is in need of care as
>well.
>
>> Other symptoms, which may or may not be related, are that I am getting
>> abnormal tire wear on the passenger side. That tire is cupped beyond
>> what I have ever seen, and is now through the wear bars. The tire on
>> the driver side is fine with about 2-3mm before the wear bars.
>
>Wear like this CAN be due to worn suspension components, but is usually
>badly mounted tire or suspension misalignment, with poor tire mounting
>covering about 90% of the occurrences.
>
>> Also noticed a hum coming from the front of the vehicle which becomes
>> apparent upon moving.
>
>That's the cupping you hear.
>
>> Note that I have replaced the caliper with a rebuilt to solve almost
>> the same problem a year or so ago. However, the rebuild was not from
>> Honda, and the hardware provided with it did not fit. I had to use my
>> old hardware to complete. All seemed fine since recently noticing the
>> fuel economy drop.
>
>You can rebuild your own front calipers. The dealership sells the seals,
>and some Sil-Glyde silicone-based grease can be used as an assembly
>lube. (DON'T use brake fluid to lube the hydraulic seal).
>
>
>
>> To remedy these problems, I am thinking about the following:
>>
>> 1. New brake pad shims and hardware for the caliper in question
>> (probably both, just to be thorough).
>
>See above.
>
>> 2. Complete brake fluid flush.
>
>BLEED and FILL only! Do not use flushig compounds!
>
>And if you've not been in the habit of changing the fluid every few
>years, do not use the "pedal press" method of bleeding. Beware of seized
>bleed nipples. Crack one of those off and you need a complete rebuild.
>
>> 3. Check slide pins for wear.
>>
>> 4. Replace wheel bearings? (not sure on this, there is some end
>> play, could a dragging caliper cause the bearing to fail?)
>
>Unlikely unless the hub is getting red ot on you.
>
>> Any other suggestions?
>
>Spend some time here:
>http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/brakes1.html
>
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1
08-28-2007, 12:02 AM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 98 civic brake drag issue
Thanks Tegger for your hard work on that website and input.
So I replaced the Brake Caliper again. Got it from Partsource. I know this
is not a preferred source, but thats where the original replacement came from,
and they asked me to try this before they would refund my money.
This time, the clips and hardware that came with the caliper actually worked.
As I mentioned earlier, I figured that would be one of the biggest reasons
why the brake was hanging in the first place. Sure enough, upon disassembly
of the caliper bracket, the old clips were in very sorry shape.
Got it all installed, lubed her up as you indicated (careful not to get any
on the rotor surface or surrounding areas).
On another topic, as I indicated earlier, I have now confirmed that the front
wheel bearing is bad on the same side the caliper was dragging. Since the
caliper was defective, do you think Partsource will help me out on the
bearing? Pretty sure the reason it failed was due to heat buildup from the
bad caliper. I guess there is a margin for installation error, but is it
worth a shot?
So then I bled out the new caliper. Took it for a short spin to try some low
speed braking to check for pulling left or right, performance, all seemed
fine. Tried a couple higher speed stops, no problem.
On the highway at 80 km/h I hit the brakes pretty hard. The car suddenly
went all squirrelly on me, got away from me, and I ended up in the ditch.
So now I have other issues. I am OK by the way. The car is mostly undamaged.
It definitely needs an alignment now, along with a few suspension components.
I noticed my rear upper suspension mounts are now both loose. Will replace
those tomorrow. Here's what I checked over:
1. Both lower ball joints are under a year old. They seem fine using the
'reef on the tire while on the ground' method.
2. Both Upper ball joints - no extra play. Tried moving the steering
knuckle back and forth to test this.
3. Tie rods - no extra play. Just grabbed one and tried moving back and
forth. There is a small amount of play due to a worn steering u-joint, but
the tie rods and rack seem OK.
4. Springs all around. - no problems apparent. Visual inspection in the
areas Tegger indicated.
5. Rear upper control arms - both are shot. Once again, the 'reef on the
tire' method. LOTS of play here. They are definitely shot. The Rear Upper
arm does come with both bushings (inner and outer) so I am hoping this will
fix that.
6. Rear Lower control arms - no noticeable play. Wasn't quite sure how to
test these, but everything appeared tight.
Did I miss anything?
The car doesn't feel safe at highway speeds right now, though the steering
seems fine. I'm thinking its the play from the rear upper arms that is
causing the problem here.
So, to anybody reading this, when doing your own brake work, BE CAREFUL when
you road test your vehicle. I was EXTREMELY lucky. and probably stupid. OK
definitely stupid.
Any input on the suspension inspection is appreciated. Once the car is road
worthy, she goes in for a final inspection and alignment at the dealer.
Glad I can smile about it now.
Terry in Winnipeg.
Tegger wrote:
>> Good evening,
>>
>[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>> and put it in second. Until I hit the gas, only the passenger side
>> wheel would turn.
>
>Check -- according to the instructions on my Web site -- in order:
>1) Pads seized on mount bracket,
>2) Slide pins seized in bores,
>3) Caliper piston seized in bore.
>
>You need to pull the brakes apart completely and do a thorough
>investigation. The usual suspect in the case of a disc brake not
>releasing is a seized caliper piston (the big one that presses on the
>pads), but often the rest of the caliper system is in need of care as
>well.
>
>> Other symptoms, which may or may not be related, are that I am getting
>> abnormal tire wear on the passenger side. That tire is cupped beyond
>> what I have ever seen, and is now through the wear bars. The tire on
>> the driver side is fine with about 2-3mm before the wear bars.
>
>Wear like this CAN be due to worn suspension components, but is usually
>badly mounted tire or suspension misalignment, with poor tire mounting
>covering about 90% of the occurrences.
>
>> Also noticed a hum coming from the front of the vehicle which becomes
>> apparent upon moving.
>
>That's the cupping you hear.
>
>> Note that I have replaced the caliper with a rebuilt to solve almost
>> the same problem a year or so ago. However, the rebuild was not from
>> Honda, and the hardware provided with it did not fit. I had to use my
>> old hardware to complete. All seemed fine since recently noticing the
>> fuel economy drop.
>
>You can rebuild your own front calipers. The dealership sells the seals,
>and some Sil-Glyde silicone-based grease can be used as an assembly
>lube. (DON'T use brake fluid to lube the hydraulic seal).
>
>
>
>> To remedy these problems, I am thinking about the following:
>>
>> 1. New brake pad shims and hardware for the caliper in question
>> (probably both, just to be thorough).
>
>See above.
>
>> 2. Complete brake fluid flush.
>
>BLEED and FILL only! Do not use flushig compounds!
>
>And if you've not been in the habit of changing the fluid every few
>years, do not use the "pedal press" method of bleeding. Beware of seized
>bleed nipples. Crack one of those off and you need a complete rebuild.
>
>> 3. Check slide pins for wear.
>>
>> 4. Replace wheel bearings? (not sure on this, there is some end
>> play, could a dragging caliper cause the bearing to fail?)
>
>Unlikely unless the hub is getting red ot on you.
>
>> Any other suggestions?
>
>Spend some time here:
>http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/brakes1.html
>
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1
So I replaced the Brake Caliper again. Got it from Partsource. I know this
is not a preferred source, but thats where the original replacement came from,
and they asked me to try this before they would refund my money.
This time, the clips and hardware that came with the caliper actually worked.
As I mentioned earlier, I figured that would be one of the biggest reasons
why the brake was hanging in the first place. Sure enough, upon disassembly
of the caliper bracket, the old clips were in very sorry shape.
Got it all installed, lubed her up as you indicated (careful not to get any
on the rotor surface or surrounding areas).
On another topic, as I indicated earlier, I have now confirmed that the front
wheel bearing is bad on the same side the caliper was dragging. Since the
caliper was defective, do you think Partsource will help me out on the
bearing? Pretty sure the reason it failed was due to heat buildup from the
bad caliper. I guess there is a margin for installation error, but is it
worth a shot?
So then I bled out the new caliper. Took it for a short spin to try some low
speed braking to check for pulling left or right, performance, all seemed
fine. Tried a couple higher speed stops, no problem.
On the highway at 80 km/h I hit the brakes pretty hard. The car suddenly
went all squirrelly on me, got away from me, and I ended up in the ditch.
So now I have other issues. I am OK by the way. The car is mostly undamaged.
It definitely needs an alignment now, along with a few suspension components.
I noticed my rear upper suspension mounts are now both loose. Will replace
those tomorrow. Here's what I checked over:
1. Both lower ball joints are under a year old. They seem fine using the
'reef on the tire while on the ground' method.
2. Both Upper ball joints - no extra play. Tried moving the steering
knuckle back and forth to test this.
3. Tie rods - no extra play. Just grabbed one and tried moving back and
forth. There is a small amount of play due to a worn steering u-joint, but
the tie rods and rack seem OK.
4. Springs all around. - no problems apparent. Visual inspection in the
areas Tegger indicated.
5. Rear upper control arms - both are shot. Once again, the 'reef on the
tire' method. LOTS of play here. They are definitely shot. The Rear Upper
arm does come with both bushings (inner and outer) so I am hoping this will
fix that.
6. Rear Lower control arms - no noticeable play. Wasn't quite sure how to
test these, but everything appeared tight.
Did I miss anything?
The car doesn't feel safe at highway speeds right now, though the steering
seems fine. I'm thinking its the play from the rear upper arms that is
causing the problem here.
So, to anybody reading this, when doing your own brake work, BE CAREFUL when
you road test your vehicle. I was EXTREMELY lucky. and probably stupid. OK
definitely stupid.
Any input on the suspension inspection is appreciated. Once the car is road
worthy, she goes in for a final inspection and alignment at the dealer.
Glad I can smile about it now.
Terry in Winnipeg.
Tegger wrote:
>> Good evening,
>>
>[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>> and put it in second. Until I hit the gas, only the passenger side
>> wheel would turn.
>
>Check -- according to the instructions on my Web site -- in order:
>1) Pads seized on mount bracket,
>2) Slide pins seized in bores,
>3) Caliper piston seized in bore.
>
>You need to pull the brakes apart completely and do a thorough
>investigation. The usual suspect in the case of a disc brake not
>releasing is a seized caliper piston (the big one that presses on the
>pads), but often the rest of the caliper system is in need of care as
>well.
>
>> Other symptoms, which may or may not be related, are that I am getting
>> abnormal tire wear on the passenger side. That tire is cupped beyond
>> what I have ever seen, and is now through the wear bars. The tire on
>> the driver side is fine with about 2-3mm before the wear bars.
>
>Wear like this CAN be due to worn suspension components, but is usually
>badly mounted tire or suspension misalignment, with poor tire mounting
>covering about 90% of the occurrences.
>
>> Also noticed a hum coming from the front of the vehicle which becomes
>> apparent upon moving.
>
>That's the cupping you hear.
>
>> Note that I have replaced the caliper with a rebuilt to solve almost
>> the same problem a year or so ago. However, the rebuild was not from
>> Honda, and the hardware provided with it did not fit. I had to use my
>> old hardware to complete. All seemed fine since recently noticing the
>> fuel economy drop.
>
>You can rebuild your own front calipers. The dealership sells the seals,
>and some Sil-Glyde silicone-based grease can be used as an assembly
>lube. (DON'T use brake fluid to lube the hydraulic seal).
>
>
>
>> To remedy these problems, I am thinking about the following:
>>
>> 1. New brake pad shims and hardware for the caliper in question
>> (probably both, just to be thorough).
>
>See above.
>
>> 2. Complete brake fluid flush.
>
>BLEED and FILL only! Do not use flushig compounds!
>
>And if you've not been in the habit of changing the fluid every few
>years, do not use the "pedal press" method of bleeding. Beware of seized
>bleed nipples. Crack one of those off and you need a complete rebuild.
>
>> 3. Check slide pins for wear.
>>
>> 4. Replace wheel bearings? (not sure on this, there is some end
>> play, could a dragging caliper cause the bearing to fail?)
>
>Unlikely unless the hub is getting red ot on you.
>
>> Any other suggestions?
>
>Spend some time here:
>http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/brakes1.html
>
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1
08-28-2007, 12:38 AM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 98 civic brake drag issue
loewent via CarKB.com wrote:
> Thanks Tegger for your hard work on that website and input.
>
> So I replaced the Brake Caliper again. Got it from Partsource. I know this
> is not a preferred source, but thats where the original replacement came from,
> and they asked me to try this before they would refund my money.
>
> This time, the clips and hardware that came with the caliper actually worked.
> As I mentioned earlier, I figured that would be one of the biggest reasons
> why the brake was hanging in the first place. Sure enough, upon disassembly
> of the caliper bracket, the old clips were in very sorry shape.
>
> Got it all installed, lubed her up as you indicated (careful not to get any
> on the rotor surface or surrounding areas).
>
> On another topic, as I indicated earlier, I have now confirmed that the front
> wheel bearing is bad on the same side the caliper was dragging. Since the
> caliper was defective, do you think Partsource will help me out on the
> bearing? Pretty sure the reason it failed was due to heat buildup from the
> bad caliper. I guess there is a margin for installation error, but is it
> worth a shot?
>
> So then I bled out the new caliper. Took it for a short spin to try some low
> speed braking to check for pulling left or right, performance, all seemed
> fine. Tried a couple higher speed stops, no problem.
>
> On the highway at 80 km/h I hit the brakes pretty hard. The car suddenly
> went all squirrelly on me, got away from me, and I ended up in the ditch.
>
> So now I have other issues. I am OK by the way. The car is mostly undamaged.
> It definitely needs an alignment now, along with a few suspension components.
> I noticed my rear upper suspension mounts are now both loose. Will replace
> those tomorrow. Here's what I checked over:
>
> 1. Both lower ball joints are under a year old. They seem fine using the
> 'reef on the tire while on the ground' method.
>
> 2. Both Upper ball joints - no extra play. Tried moving the steering
> knuckle back and forth to test this.
>
> 3. Tie rods - no extra play. Just grabbed one and tried moving back and
> forth. There is a small amount of play due to a worn steering u-joint, but
> the tie rods and rack seem OK.
>
> 4. Springs all around. - no problems apparent. Visual inspection in the
> areas Tegger indicated.
>
> 5. Rear upper control arms - both are shot. Once again, the 'reef on the
> tire' method. LOTS of play here. They are definitely shot. The Rear Upper
> arm does come with both bushings (inner and outer) so I am hoping this will
> fix that.
>
> 6. Rear Lower control arms - no noticeable play. Wasn't quite sure how to
> test these, but everything appeared tight.
>
> Did I miss anything?
>
> The car doesn't feel safe at highway speeds right now, though the steering
> seems fine. I'm thinking its the play from the rear upper arms that is
> causing the problem here.
the wishbone civics are very sensitive to the rear being good. top
joints will definitely cause a problem, as will the main trailing arm
pivot. at nearly 10 years old, there's a good chance they need
attention. jack the rear off the ground and inspect for cracking. when
all's good, make sure you get a good rear alignment done.
>
> So, to anybody reading this, when doing your own brake work, BE CAREFUL when
> you road test your vehicle. I was EXTREMELY lucky. and probably stupid. OK
> definitely stupid.
>
> Any input on the suspension inspection is appreciated. Once the car is road
> worthy, she goes in for a final inspection and alignment at the dealer.
>
> Glad I can smile about it now.
> Terry in Winnipeg.
>
>
> Tegger wrote:
>>> Good evening,
>>>
>> [quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>>> and put it in second. Until I hit the gas, only the passenger side
>>> wheel would turn.
>> Check -- according to the instructions on my Web site -- in order:
>> 1) Pads seized on mount bracket,
>> 2) Slide pins seized in bores,
>> 3) Caliper piston seized in bore.
>>
>> You need to pull the brakes apart completely and do a thorough
>> investigation. The usual suspect in the case of a disc brake not
>> releasing is a seized caliper piston (the big one that presses on the
>> pads), but often the rest of the caliper system is in need of care as
>> well.
>>
>>> Other symptoms, which may or may not be related, are that I am getting
>>> abnormal tire wear on the passenger side. That tire is cupped beyond
>>> what I have ever seen, and is now through the wear bars. The tire on
>>> the driver side is fine with about 2-3mm before the wear bars.
>> Wear like this CAN be due to worn suspension components, but is usually
>> badly mounted tire or suspension misalignment, with poor tire mounting
>> covering about 90% of the occurrences.
>>
>>> Also noticed a hum coming from the front of the vehicle which becomes
>>> apparent upon moving.
>> That's the cupping you hear.
>>
>>> Note that I have replaced the caliper with a rebuilt to solve almost
>>> the same problem a year or so ago. However, the rebuild was not from
>>> Honda, and the hardware provided with it did not fit. I had to use my
>>> old hardware to complete. All seemed fine since recently noticing the
>>> fuel economy drop.
>> You can rebuild your own front calipers. The dealership sells the seals,
>> and some Sil-Glyde silicone-based grease can be used as an assembly
>> lube. (DON'T use brake fluid to lube the hydraulic seal).
>>
>>
>>
>>> To remedy these problems, I am thinking about the following:
>>>
>>> 1. New brake pad shims and hardware for the caliper in question
>>> (probably both, just to be thorough).
>> See above.
>>
>>> 2. Complete brake fluid flush.
>> BLEED and FILL only! Do not use flushig compounds!
>>
>> And if you've not been in the habit of changing the fluid every few
>> years, do not use the "pedal press" method of bleeding. Beware of seized
>> bleed nipples. Crack one of those off and you need a complete rebuild.
>>
>>> 3. Check slide pins for wear.
>>>
>>> 4. Replace wheel bearings? (not sure on this, there is some end
>>> play, could a dragging caliper cause the bearing to fail?)
>> Unlikely unless the hub is getting red ot on you.
>>
>>> Any other suggestions?
>> Spend some time here:
>> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/brakes1.html
>>
>
> Thanks Tegger for your hard work on that website and input.
>
> So I replaced the Brake Caliper again. Got it from Partsource. I know this
> is not a preferred source, but thats where the original replacement came from,
> and they asked me to try this before they would refund my money.
>
> This time, the clips and hardware that came with the caliper actually worked.
> As I mentioned earlier, I figured that would be one of the biggest reasons
> why the brake was hanging in the first place. Sure enough, upon disassembly
> of the caliper bracket, the old clips were in very sorry shape.
>
> Got it all installed, lubed her up as you indicated (careful not to get any
> on the rotor surface or surrounding areas).
>
> On another topic, as I indicated earlier, I have now confirmed that the front
> wheel bearing is bad on the same side the caliper was dragging. Since the
> caliper was defective, do you think Partsource will help me out on the
> bearing? Pretty sure the reason it failed was due to heat buildup from the
> bad caliper. I guess there is a margin for installation error, but is it
> worth a shot?
>
> So then I bled out the new caliper. Took it for a short spin to try some low
> speed braking to check for pulling left or right, performance, all seemed
> fine. Tried a couple higher speed stops, no problem.
>
> On the highway at 80 km/h I hit the brakes pretty hard. The car suddenly
> went all squirrelly on me, got away from me, and I ended up in the ditch.
>
> So now I have other issues. I am OK by the way. The car is mostly undamaged.
> It definitely needs an alignment now, along with a few suspension components.
> I noticed my rear upper suspension mounts are now both loose. Will replace
> those tomorrow. Here's what I checked over:
>
> 1. Both lower ball joints are under a year old. They seem fine using the
> 'reef on the tire while on the ground' method.
>
> 2. Both Upper ball joints - no extra play. Tried moving the steering
> knuckle back and forth to test this.
>
> 3. Tie rods - no extra play. Just grabbed one and tried moving back and
> forth. There is a small amount of play due to a worn steering u-joint, but
> the tie rods and rack seem OK.
>
> 4. Springs all around. - no problems apparent. Visual inspection in the
> areas Tegger indicated.
>
> 5. Rear upper control arms - both are shot. Once again, the 'reef on the
> tire' method. LOTS of play here. They are definitely shot. The Rear Upper
> arm does come with both bushings (inner and outer) so I am hoping this will
> fix that.
>
> 6. Rear Lower control arms - no noticeable play. Wasn't quite sure how to
> test these, but everything appeared tight.
>
> Did I miss anything?
>
> The car doesn't feel safe at highway speeds right now, though the steering
> seems fine. I'm thinking its the play from the rear upper arms that is
> causing the problem here.
the wishbone civics are very sensitive to the rear being good. top
joints will definitely cause a problem, as will the main trailing arm
pivot. at nearly 10 years old, there's a good chance they need
attention. jack the rear off the ground and inspect for cracking. when
all's good, make sure you get a good rear alignment done.
>
> So, to anybody reading this, when doing your own brake work, BE CAREFUL when
> you road test your vehicle. I was EXTREMELY lucky. and probably stupid. OK
> definitely stupid.
>
> Any input on the suspension inspection is appreciated. Once the car is road
> worthy, she goes in for a final inspection and alignment at the dealer.
>
> Glad I can smile about it now.
> Terry in Winnipeg.
>
>
> Tegger wrote:
>>> Good evening,
>>>
>> [quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>>> and put it in second. Until I hit the gas, only the passenger side
>>> wheel would turn.
>> Check -- according to the instructions on my Web site -- in order:
>> 1) Pads seized on mount bracket,
>> 2) Slide pins seized in bores,
>> 3) Caliper piston seized in bore.
>>
>> You need to pull the brakes apart completely and do a thorough
>> investigation. The usual suspect in the case of a disc brake not
>> releasing is a seized caliper piston (the big one that presses on the
>> pads), but often the rest of the caliper system is in need of care as
>> well.
>>
>>> Other symptoms, which may or may not be related, are that I am getting
>>> abnormal tire wear on the passenger side. That tire is cupped beyond
>>> what I have ever seen, and is now through the wear bars. The tire on
>>> the driver side is fine with about 2-3mm before the wear bars.
>> Wear like this CAN be due to worn suspension components, but is usually
>> badly mounted tire or suspension misalignment, with poor tire mounting
>> covering about 90% of the occurrences.
>>
>>> Also noticed a hum coming from the front of the vehicle which becomes
>>> apparent upon moving.
>> That's the cupping you hear.
>>
>>> Note that I have replaced the caliper with a rebuilt to solve almost
>>> the same problem a year or so ago. However, the rebuild was not from
>>> Honda, and the hardware provided with it did not fit. I had to use my
>>> old hardware to complete. All seemed fine since recently noticing the
>>> fuel economy drop.
>> You can rebuild your own front calipers. The dealership sells the seals,
>> and some Sil-Glyde silicone-based grease can be used as an assembly
>> lube. (DON'T use brake fluid to lube the hydraulic seal).
>>
>>
>>
>>> To remedy these problems, I am thinking about the following:
>>>
>>> 1. New brake pad shims and hardware for the caliper in question
>>> (probably both, just to be thorough).
>> See above.
>>
>>> 2. Complete brake fluid flush.
>> BLEED and FILL only! Do not use flushig compounds!
>>
>> And if you've not been in the habit of changing the fluid every few
>> years, do not use the "pedal press" method of bleeding. Beware of seized
>> bleed nipples. Crack one of those off and you need a complete rebuild.
>>
>>> 3. Check slide pins for wear.
>>>
>>> 4. Replace wheel bearings? (not sure on this, there is some end
>>> play, could a dragging caliper cause the bearing to fail?)
>> Unlikely unless the hub is getting red ot on you.
>>
>>> Any other suggestions?
>> Spend some time here:
>> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/brakes1.html
>>
>
08-28-2007, 12:38 AM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 98 civic brake drag issue
loewent via CarKB.com wrote:
> Thanks Tegger for your hard work on that website and input.
>
> So I replaced the Brake Caliper again. Got it from Partsource. I know this
> is not a preferred source, but thats where the original replacement came from,
> and they asked me to try this before they would refund my money.
>
> This time, the clips and hardware that came with the caliper actually worked.
> As I mentioned earlier, I figured that would be one of the biggest reasons
> why the brake was hanging in the first place. Sure enough, upon disassembly
> of the caliper bracket, the old clips were in very sorry shape.
>
> Got it all installed, lubed her up as you indicated (careful not to get any
> on the rotor surface or surrounding areas).
>
> On another topic, as I indicated earlier, I have now confirmed that the front
> wheel bearing is bad on the same side the caliper was dragging. Since the
> caliper was defective, do you think Partsource will help me out on the
> bearing? Pretty sure the reason it failed was due to heat buildup from the
> bad caliper. I guess there is a margin for installation error, but is it
> worth a shot?
>
> So then I bled out the new caliper. Took it for a short spin to try some low
> speed braking to check for pulling left or right, performance, all seemed
> fine. Tried a couple higher speed stops, no problem.
>
> On the highway at 80 km/h I hit the brakes pretty hard. The car suddenly
> went all squirrelly on me, got away from me, and I ended up in the ditch.
>
> So now I have other issues. I am OK by the way. The car is mostly undamaged.
> It definitely needs an alignment now, along with a few suspension components.
> I noticed my rear upper suspension mounts are now both loose. Will replace
> those tomorrow. Here's what I checked over:
>
> 1. Both lower ball joints are under a year old. They seem fine using the
> 'reef on the tire while on the ground' method.
>
> 2. Both Upper ball joints - no extra play. Tried moving the steering
> knuckle back and forth to test this.
>
> 3. Tie rods - no extra play. Just grabbed one and tried moving back and
> forth. There is a small amount of play due to a worn steering u-joint, but
> the tie rods and rack seem OK.
>
> 4. Springs all around. - no problems apparent. Visual inspection in the
> areas Tegger indicated.
>
> 5. Rear upper control arms - both are shot. Once again, the 'reef on the
> tire' method. LOTS of play here. They are definitely shot. The Rear Upper
> arm does come with both bushings (inner and outer) so I am hoping this will
> fix that.
>
> 6. Rear Lower control arms - no noticeable play. Wasn't quite sure how to
> test these, but everything appeared tight.
>
> Did I miss anything?
>
> The car doesn't feel safe at highway speeds right now, though the steering
> seems fine. I'm thinking its the play from the rear upper arms that is
> causing the problem here.
the wishbone civics are very sensitive to the rear being good. top
joints will definitely cause a problem, as will the main trailing arm
pivot. at nearly 10 years old, there's a good chance they need
attention. jack the rear off the ground and inspect for cracking. when
all's good, make sure you get a good rear alignment done.
>
> So, to anybody reading this, when doing your own brake work, BE CAREFUL when
> you road test your vehicle. I was EXTREMELY lucky. and probably stupid. OK
> definitely stupid.
>
> Any input on the suspension inspection is appreciated. Once the car is road
> worthy, she goes in for a final inspection and alignment at the dealer.
>
> Glad I can smile about it now.
> Terry in Winnipeg.
>
>
> Tegger wrote:
>>> Good evening,
>>>
>> [quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>>> and put it in second. Until I hit the gas, only the passenger side
>>> wheel would turn.
>> Check -- according to the instructions on my Web site -- in order:
>> 1) Pads seized on mount bracket,
>> 2) Slide pins seized in bores,
>> 3) Caliper piston seized in bore.
>>
>> You need to pull the brakes apart completely and do a thorough
>> investigation. The usual suspect in the case of a disc brake not
>> releasing is a seized caliper piston (the big one that presses on the
>> pads), but often the rest of the caliper system is in need of care as
>> well.
>>
>>> Other symptoms, which may or may not be related, are that I am getting
>>> abnormal tire wear on the passenger side. That tire is cupped beyond
>>> what I have ever seen, and is now through the wear bars. The tire on
>>> the driver side is fine with about 2-3mm before the wear bars.
>> Wear like this CAN be due to worn suspension components, but is usually
>> badly mounted tire or suspension misalignment, with poor tire mounting
>> covering about 90% of the occurrences.
>>
>>> Also noticed a hum coming from the front of the vehicle which becomes
>>> apparent upon moving.
>> That's the cupping you hear.
>>
>>> Note that I have replaced the caliper with a rebuilt to solve almost
>>> the same problem a year or so ago. However, the rebuild was not from
>>> Honda, and the hardware provided with it did not fit. I had to use my
>>> old hardware to complete. All seemed fine since recently noticing the
>>> fuel economy drop.
>> You can rebuild your own front calipers. The dealership sells the seals,
>> and some Sil-Glyde silicone-based grease can be used as an assembly
>> lube. (DON'T use brake fluid to lube the hydraulic seal).
>>
>>
>>
>>> To remedy these problems, I am thinking about the following:
>>>
>>> 1. New brake pad shims and hardware for the caliper in question
>>> (probably both, just to be thorough).
>> See above.
>>
>>> 2. Complete brake fluid flush.
>> BLEED and FILL only! Do not use flushig compounds!
>>
>> And if you've not been in the habit of changing the fluid every few
>> years, do not use the "pedal press" method of bleeding. Beware of seized
>> bleed nipples. Crack one of those off and you need a complete rebuild.
>>
>>> 3. Check slide pins for wear.
>>>
>>> 4. Replace wheel bearings? (not sure on this, there is some end
>>> play, could a dragging caliper cause the bearing to fail?)
>> Unlikely unless the hub is getting red ot on you.
>>
>>> Any other suggestions?
>> Spend some time here:
>> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/brakes1.html
>>
>
> Thanks Tegger for your hard work on that website and input.
>
> So I replaced the Brake Caliper again. Got it from Partsource. I know this
> is not a preferred source, but thats where the original replacement came from,
> and they asked me to try this before they would refund my money.
>
> This time, the clips and hardware that came with the caliper actually worked.
> As I mentioned earlier, I figured that would be one of the biggest reasons
> why the brake was hanging in the first place. Sure enough, upon disassembly
> of the caliper bracket, the old clips were in very sorry shape.
>
> Got it all installed, lubed her up as you indicated (careful not to get any
> on the rotor surface or surrounding areas).
>
> On another topic, as I indicated earlier, I have now confirmed that the front
> wheel bearing is bad on the same side the caliper was dragging. Since the
> caliper was defective, do you think Partsource will help me out on the
> bearing? Pretty sure the reason it failed was due to heat buildup from the
> bad caliper. I guess there is a margin for installation error, but is it
> worth a shot?
>
> So then I bled out the new caliper. Took it for a short spin to try some low
> speed braking to check for pulling left or right, performance, all seemed
> fine. Tried a couple higher speed stops, no problem.
>
> On the highway at 80 km/h I hit the brakes pretty hard. The car suddenly
> went all squirrelly on me, got away from me, and I ended up in the ditch.
>
> So now I have other issues. I am OK by the way. The car is mostly undamaged.
> It definitely needs an alignment now, along with a few suspension components.
> I noticed my rear upper suspension mounts are now both loose. Will replace
> those tomorrow. Here's what I checked over:
>
> 1. Both lower ball joints are under a year old. They seem fine using the
> 'reef on the tire while on the ground' method.
>
> 2. Both Upper ball joints - no extra play. Tried moving the steering
> knuckle back and forth to test this.
>
> 3. Tie rods - no extra play. Just grabbed one and tried moving back and
> forth. There is a small amount of play due to a worn steering u-joint, but
> the tie rods and rack seem OK.
>
> 4. Springs all around. - no problems apparent. Visual inspection in the
> areas Tegger indicated.
>
> 5. Rear upper control arms - both are shot. Once again, the 'reef on the
> tire' method. LOTS of play here. They are definitely shot. The Rear Upper
> arm does come with both bushings (inner and outer) so I am hoping this will
> fix that.
>
> 6. Rear Lower control arms - no noticeable play. Wasn't quite sure how to
> test these, but everything appeared tight.
>
> Did I miss anything?
>
> The car doesn't feel safe at highway speeds right now, though the steering
> seems fine. I'm thinking its the play from the rear upper arms that is
> causing the problem here.
the wishbone civics are very sensitive to the rear being good. top
joints will definitely cause a problem, as will the main trailing arm
pivot. at nearly 10 years old, there's a good chance they need
attention. jack the rear off the ground and inspect for cracking. when
all's good, make sure you get a good rear alignment done.
>
> So, to anybody reading this, when doing your own brake work, BE CAREFUL when
> you road test your vehicle. I was EXTREMELY lucky. and probably stupid. OK
> definitely stupid.
>
> Any input on the suspension inspection is appreciated. Once the car is road
> worthy, she goes in for a final inspection and alignment at the dealer.
>
> Glad I can smile about it now.
> Terry in Winnipeg.
>
>
> Tegger wrote:
>>> Good evening,
>>>
>> [quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>>> and put it in second. Until I hit the gas, only the passenger side
>>> wheel would turn.
>> Check -- according to the instructions on my Web site -- in order:
>> 1) Pads seized on mount bracket,
>> 2) Slide pins seized in bores,
>> 3) Caliper piston seized in bore.
>>
>> You need to pull the brakes apart completely and do a thorough
>> investigation. The usual suspect in the case of a disc brake not
>> releasing is a seized caliper piston (the big one that presses on the
>> pads), but often the rest of the caliper system is in need of care as
>> well.
>>
>>> Other symptoms, which may or may not be related, are that I am getting
>>> abnormal tire wear on the passenger side. That tire is cupped beyond
>>> what I have ever seen, and is now through the wear bars. The tire on
>>> the driver side is fine with about 2-3mm before the wear bars.
>> Wear like this CAN be due to worn suspension components, but is usually
>> badly mounted tire or suspension misalignment, with poor tire mounting
>> covering about 90% of the occurrences.
>>
>>> Also noticed a hum coming from the front of the vehicle which becomes
>>> apparent upon moving.
>> That's the cupping you hear.
>>
>>> Note that I have replaced the caliper with a rebuilt to solve almost
>>> the same problem a year or so ago. However, the rebuild was not from
>>> Honda, and the hardware provided with it did not fit. I had to use my
>>> old hardware to complete. All seemed fine since recently noticing the
>>> fuel economy drop.
>> You can rebuild your own front calipers. The dealership sells the seals,
>> and some Sil-Glyde silicone-based grease can be used as an assembly
>> lube. (DON'T use brake fluid to lube the hydraulic seal).
>>
>>
>>
>>> To remedy these problems, I am thinking about the following:
>>>
>>> 1. New brake pad shims and hardware for the caliper in question
>>> (probably both, just to be thorough).
>> See above.
>>
>>> 2. Complete brake fluid flush.
>> BLEED and FILL only! Do not use flushig compounds!
>>
>> And if you've not been in the habit of changing the fluid every few
>> years, do not use the "pedal press" method of bleeding. Beware of seized
>> bleed nipples. Crack one of those off and you need a complete rebuild.
>>
>>> 3. Check slide pins for wear.
>>>
>>> 4. Replace wheel bearings? (not sure on this, there is some end
>>> play, could a dragging caliper cause the bearing to fail?)
>> Unlikely unless the hub is getting red ot on you.
>>
>>> Any other suggestions?
>> Spend some time here:
>> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/brakes1.html
>>
>
08-28-2007, 08:16 AM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 98 civic brake drag issue
"loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote in news:775a284bde61b@uwe:
> Thanks Tegger for your hard work on that website and input.
>
> So I replaced the Brake Caliper again. Got it from Partsource. I
> know this is not a preferred source, but thats where the original
> replacement came from, and they asked me to try this before they would
> refund my money.
You should apply a bit of Sil-Glyde to the hydraulic piston so it will
slide more easily on the seal. The Sil-Glyde helps prevent gum buildup
that causes piston seizure. Aftermarket remans often are assembled with
brake fluid, to save on costs.
>
> This time, the clips and hardware that came with the caliper actually
> worked. As I mentioned earlier, I figured that would be one of the
> biggest reasons why the brake was hanging in the first place. Sure
> enough, upon disassembly of the caliper bracket, the old clips were in
> very sorry shape.
>
> Got it all installed, lubed her up as you indicated (careful not to
> get any on the rotor surface or surrounding areas).
And making sure to put just a tiny dab (1/8" dia on rears, 1/4" on
fronts) on the squeal shims. The grease will like crazy once the
piston clamps everything together.
>
> On another topic, as I indicated earlier, I have now confirmed that
> the front wheel bearing is bad on the same side the caliper was
> dragging. Since the caliper was defective, do you think Partsource
> will help me out on the bearing? Pretty sure the reason it failed was
> due to heat buildup from the bad caliper. I guess there is a margin
> for installation error, but is it worth a shot?
I suppose so, but I don't think you'll get very far. They can simply
point out that wheel bearings go bad all the time through simple
corrosion. You can't know for sure unless you remove it and take it
apart.
>
> So then I bled out the new caliper. Took it for a short spin to try
> some low speed braking to check for pulling left or right,
> performance, all seemed fine. Tried a couple higher speed stops, no
> problem.
>
> On the highway at 80 km/h I hit the brakes pretty hard. The car
> suddenly went all squirrelly on me, got away from me, and I ended up
> in the ditch.
Sorry to hear that.
What may have happened here is that the replacement of just one caliper
caused an imbalance in braking effort. It is always best to rebuild or
replace in axle sets, just like shocks. This way you're assured of equal
effort from either caliper.
>
> So now I have other issues. I am OK by the way. The car is mostly
> undamaged. It definitely needs an alignment now, along with a few
> suspension components. I noticed my rear upper suspension mounts are
> now both loose. Will replace those tomorrow. Here's what I checked
> over:
>
> 1. Both lower ball joints are under a year old. They seem fine using
> the 'reef on the tire while on the ground' method.
>
Not reliable. Pop the taper, lever the lower arm out of the way, then
wiggle by hand. That's the only sure way to tell.
> 2. Both Upper ball joints - no extra play. Tried moving the steering
> knuckle back and forth to test this.
Again, not necessarily a good test. Test as lower ***** above.
>
> 3. Tie rods - no extra play. Just grabbed one and tried moving back
> and forth. There is a small amount of play due to a worn steering
> u-joint, but the tie rods and rack seem OK.
Were the tires jacked up so they were at their usual attitude relative
to the body, or were they hanging down? Wear will be masked if the
steering linkage is not at its usual riding attitude.
>
> 4. Springs all around. - no problems apparent. Visual inspection in
> the areas Tegger indicated.
Broken springs tend to be experientially invisible; you won't know the
spring is broken unless you look.
>
> 5. Rear upper control arms - both are shot. Once again, the 'reef on
> the tire' method. LOTS of play here. They are definitely shot. The
> Rear Upper arm does come with both bushings (inner and outer) so I am
> hoping this will fix that.
Replacing the upper arm is very easy, but it's best to use an impact
wrench.
>
> 6. Rear Lower control arms - no noticeable play. Wasn't quite sure
> how to test these, but everything appeared tight.
Check for cracks in the big bushing. Let the tire hang so as to distort
the bushing, then have a look with a strong light. Cracks will be
obvious. Anything but a complete breakup means the bushing is OK for
now.
>
> Did I miss anything?
>
> The car doesn't feel safe at highway speeds right now, though the
> steering seems fine. I'm thinking its the play from the rear upper
> arms that is causing the problem here.
It's possible. At this point I would take the car to a trusted shop and
have the entire suspension gone over by a pro.
>
> So, to anybody reading this, when doing your own brake work, BE
> CAREFUL when you road test your vehicle. I was EXTREMELY lucky. and
> probably stupid. OK definitely stupid.
I think the primary problem here was the repalcement of just one
caliper.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
> Thanks Tegger for your hard work on that website and input.
>
> So I replaced the Brake Caliper again. Got it from Partsource. I
> know this is not a preferred source, but thats where the original
> replacement came from, and they asked me to try this before they would
> refund my money.
You should apply a bit of Sil-Glyde to the hydraulic piston so it will
slide more easily on the seal. The Sil-Glyde helps prevent gum buildup
that causes piston seizure. Aftermarket remans often are assembled with
brake fluid, to save on costs.
>
> This time, the clips and hardware that came with the caliper actually
> worked. As I mentioned earlier, I figured that would be one of the
> biggest reasons why the brake was hanging in the first place. Sure
> enough, upon disassembly of the caliper bracket, the old clips were in
> very sorry shape.
>
> Got it all installed, lubed her up as you indicated (careful not to
> get any on the rotor surface or surrounding areas).
And making sure to put just a tiny dab (1/8" dia on rears, 1/4" on
fronts) on the squeal shims. The grease will like crazy once the
piston clamps everything together.
>
> On another topic, as I indicated earlier, I have now confirmed that
> the front wheel bearing is bad on the same side the caliper was
> dragging. Since the caliper was defective, do you think Partsource
> will help me out on the bearing? Pretty sure the reason it failed was
> due to heat buildup from the bad caliper. I guess there is a margin
> for installation error, but is it worth a shot?
I suppose so, but I don't think you'll get very far. They can simply
point out that wheel bearings go bad all the time through simple
corrosion. You can't know for sure unless you remove it and take it
apart.
>
> So then I bled out the new caliper. Took it for a short spin to try
> some low speed braking to check for pulling left or right,
> performance, all seemed fine. Tried a couple higher speed stops, no
> problem.
>
> On the highway at 80 km/h I hit the brakes pretty hard. The car
> suddenly went all squirrelly on me, got away from me, and I ended up
> in the ditch.
Sorry to hear that.
What may have happened here is that the replacement of just one caliper
caused an imbalance in braking effort. It is always best to rebuild or
replace in axle sets, just like shocks. This way you're assured of equal
effort from either caliper.
>
> So now I have other issues. I am OK by the way. The car is mostly
> undamaged. It definitely needs an alignment now, along with a few
> suspension components. I noticed my rear upper suspension mounts are
> now both loose. Will replace those tomorrow. Here's what I checked
> over:
>
> 1. Both lower ball joints are under a year old. They seem fine using
> the 'reef on the tire while on the ground' method.
>
Not reliable. Pop the taper, lever the lower arm out of the way, then
wiggle by hand. That's the only sure way to tell.
> 2. Both Upper ball joints - no extra play. Tried moving the steering
> knuckle back and forth to test this.
Again, not necessarily a good test. Test as lower ***** above.
>
> 3. Tie rods - no extra play. Just grabbed one and tried moving back
> and forth. There is a small amount of play due to a worn steering
> u-joint, but the tie rods and rack seem OK.
Were the tires jacked up so they were at their usual attitude relative
to the body, or were they hanging down? Wear will be masked if the
steering linkage is not at its usual riding attitude.
>
> 4. Springs all around. - no problems apparent. Visual inspection in
> the areas Tegger indicated.
Broken springs tend to be experientially invisible; you won't know the
spring is broken unless you look.
>
> 5. Rear upper control arms - both are shot. Once again, the 'reef on
> the tire' method. LOTS of play here. They are definitely shot. The
> Rear Upper arm does come with both bushings (inner and outer) so I am
> hoping this will fix that.
Replacing the upper arm is very easy, but it's best to use an impact
wrench.
>
> 6. Rear Lower control arms - no noticeable play. Wasn't quite sure
> how to test these, but everything appeared tight.
Check for cracks in the big bushing. Let the tire hang so as to distort
the bushing, then have a look with a strong light. Cracks will be
obvious. Anything but a complete breakup means the bushing is OK for
now.
>
> Did I miss anything?
>
> The car doesn't feel safe at highway speeds right now, though the
> steering seems fine. I'm thinking its the play from the rear upper
> arms that is causing the problem here.
It's possible. At this point I would take the car to a trusted shop and
have the entire suspension gone over by a pro.
>
> So, to anybody reading this, when doing your own brake work, BE
> CAREFUL when you road test your vehicle. I was EXTREMELY lucky. and
> probably stupid. OK definitely stupid.
I think the primary problem here was the repalcement of just one
caliper.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
08-28-2007, 08:16 AM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 98 civic brake drag issue
"loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote in news:775a284bde61b@uwe:
> Thanks Tegger for your hard work on that website and input.
>
> So I replaced the Brake Caliper again. Got it from Partsource. I
> know this is not a preferred source, but thats where the original
> replacement came from, and they asked me to try this before they would
> refund my money.
You should apply a bit of Sil-Glyde to the hydraulic piston so it will
slide more easily on the seal. The Sil-Glyde helps prevent gum buildup
that causes piston seizure. Aftermarket remans often are assembled with
brake fluid, to save on costs.
>
> This time, the clips and hardware that came with the caliper actually
> worked. As I mentioned earlier, I figured that would be one of the
> biggest reasons why the brake was hanging in the first place. Sure
> enough, upon disassembly of the caliper bracket, the old clips were in
> very sorry shape.
>
> Got it all installed, lubed her up as you indicated (careful not to
> get any on the rotor surface or surrounding areas).
And making sure to put just a tiny dab (1/8" dia on rears, 1/4" on
fronts) on the squeal shims. The grease will like crazy once the
piston clamps everything together.
>
> On another topic, as I indicated earlier, I have now confirmed that
> the front wheel bearing is bad on the same side the caliper was
> dragging. Since the caliper was defective, do you think Partsource
> will help me out on the bearing? Pretty sure the reason it failed was
> due to heat buildup from the bad caliper. I guess there is a margin
> for installation error, but is it worth a shot?
I suppose so, but I don't think you'll get very far. They can simply
point out that wheel bearings go bad all the time through simple
corrosion. You can't know for sure unless you remove it and take it
apart.
>
> So then I bled out the new caliper. Took it for a short spin to try
> some low speed braking to check for pulling left or right,
> performance, all seemed fine. Tried a couple higher speed stops, no
> problem.
>
> On the highway at 80 km/h I hit the brakes pretty hard. The car
> suddenly went all squirrelly on me, got away from me, and I ended up
> in the ditch.
Sorry to hear that.
What may have happened here is that the replacement of just one caliper
caused an imbalance in braking effort. It is always best to rebuild or
replace in axle sets, just like shocks. This way you're assured of equal
effort from either caliper.
>
> So now I have other issues. I am OK by the way. The car is mostly
> undamaged. It definitely needs an alignment now, along with a few
> suspension components. I noticed my rear upper suspension mounts are
> now both loose. Will replace those tomorrow. Here's what I checked
> over:
>
> 1. Both lower ball joints are under a year old. They seem fine using
> the 'reef on the tire while on the ground' method.
>
Not reliable. Pop the taper, lever the lower arm out of the way, then
wiggle by hand. That's the only sure way to tell.
> 2. Both Upper ball joints - no extra play. Tried moving the steering
> knuckle back and forth to test this.
Again, not necessarily a good test. Test as lower ***** above.
>
> 3. Tie rods - no extra play. Just grabbed one and tried moving back
> and forth. There is a small amount of play due to a worn steering
> u-joint, but the tie rods and rack seem OK.
Were the tires jacked up so they were at their usual attitude relative
to the body, or were they hanging down? Wear will be masked if the
steering linkage is not at its usual riding attitude.
>
> 4. Springs all around. - no problems apparent. Visual inspection in
> the areas Tegger indicated.
Broken springs tend to be experientially invisible; you won't know the
spring is broken unless you look.
>
> 5. Rear upper control arms - both are shot. Once again, the 'reef on
> the tire' method. LOTS of play here. They are definitely shot. The
> Rear Upper arm does come with both bushings (inner and outer) so I am
> hoping this will fix that.
Replacing the upper arm is very easy, but it's best to use an impact
wrench.
>
> 6. Rear Lower control arms - no noticeable play. Wasn't quite sure
> how to test these, but everything appeared tight.
Check for cracks in the big bushing. Let the tire hang so as to distort
the bushing, then have a look with a strong light. Cracks will be
obvious. Anything but a complete breakup means the bushing is OK for
now.
>
> Did I miss anything?
>
> The car doesn't feel safe at highway speeds right now, though the
> steering seems fine. I'm thinking its the play from the rear upper
> arms that is causing the problem here.
It's possible. At this point I would take the car to a trusted shop and
have the entire suspension gone over by a pro.
>
> So, to anybody reading this, when doing your own brake work, BE
> CAREFUL when you road test your vehicle. I was EXTREMELY lucky. and
> probably stupid. OK definitely stupid.
I think the primary problem here was the repalcement of just one
caliper.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
> Thanks Tegger for your hard work on that website and input.
>
> So I replaced the Brake Caliper again. Got it from Partsource. I
> know this is not a preferred source, but thats where the original
> replacement came from, and they asked me to try this before they would
> refund my money.
You should apply a bit of Sil-Glyde to the hydraulic piston so it will
slide more easily on the seal. The Sil-Glyde helps prevent gum buildup
that causes piston seizure. Aftermarket remans often are assembled with
brake fluid, to save on costs.
>
> This time, the clips and hardware that came with the caliper actually
> worked. As I mentioned earlier, I figured that would be one of the
> biggest reasons why the brake was hanging in the first place. Sure
> enough, upon disassembly of the caliper bracket, the old clips were in
> very sorry shape.
>
> Got it all installed, lubed her up as you indicated (careful not to
> get any on the rotor surface or surrounding areas).
And making sure to put just a tiny dab (1/8" dia on rears, 1/4" on
fronts) on the squeal shims. The grease will like crazy once the
piston clamps everything together.
>
> On another topic, as I indicated earlier, I have now confirmed that
> the front wheel bearing is bad on the same side the caliper was
> dragging. Since the caliper was defective, do you think Partsource
> will help me out on the bearing? Pretty sure the reason it failed was
> due to heat buildup from the bad caliper. I guess there is a margin
> for installation error, but is it worth a shot?
I suppose so, but I don't think you'll get very far. They can simply
point out that wheel bearings go bad all the time through simple
corrosion. You can't know for sure unless you remove it and take it
apart.
>
> So then I bled out the new caliper. Took it for a short spin to try
> some low speed braking to check for pulling left or right,
> performance, all seemed fine. Tried a couple higher speed stops, no
> problem.
>
> On the highway at 80 km/h I hit the brakes pretty hard. The car
> suddenly went all squirrelly on me, got away from me, and I ended up
> in the ditch.
Sorry to hear that.
What may have happened here is that the replacement of just one caliper
caused an imbalance in braking effort. It is always best to rebuild or
replace in axle sets, just like shocks. This way you're assured of equal
effort from either caliper.
>
> So now I have other issues. I am OK by the way. The car is mostly
> undamaged. It definitely needs an alignment now, along with a few
> suspension components. I noticed my rear upper suspension mounts are
> now both loose. Will replace those tomorrow. Here's what I checked
> over:
>
> 1. Both lower ball joints are under a year old. They seem fine using
> the 'reef on the tire while on the ground' method.
>
Not reliable. Pop the taper, lever the lower arm out of the way, then
wiggle by hand. That's the only sure way to tell.
> 2. Both Upper ball joints - no extra play. Tried moving the steering
> knuckle back and forth to test this.
Again, not necessarily a good test. Test as lower ***** above.
>
> 3. Tie rods - no extra play. Just grabbed one and tried moving back
> and forth. There is a small amount of play due to a worn steering
> u-joint, but the tie rods and rack seem OK.
Were the tires jacked up so they were at their usual attitude relative
to the body, or were they hanging down? Wear will be masked if the
steering linkage is not at its usual riding attitude.
>
> 4. Springs all around. - no problems apparent. Visual inspection in
> the areas Tegger indicated.
Broken springs tend to be experientially invisible; you won't know the
spring is broken unless you look.
>
> 5. Rear upper control arms - both are shot. Once again, the 'reef on
> the tire' method. LOTS of play here. They are definitely shot. The
> Rear Upper arm does come with both bushings (inner and outer) so I am
> hoping this will fix that.
Replacing the upper arm is very easy, but it's best to use an impact
wrench.
>
> 6. Rear Lower control arms - no noticeable play. Wasn't quite sure
> how to test these, but everything appeared tight.
Check for cracks in the big bushing. Let the tire hang so as to distort
the bushing, then have a look with a strong light. Cracks will be
obvious. Anything but a complete breakup means the bushing is OK for
now.
>
> Did I miss anything?
>
> The car doesn't feel safe at highway speeds right now, though the
> steering seems fine. I'm thinking its the play from the rear upper
> arms that is causing the problem here.
It's possible. At this point I would take the car to a trusted shop and
have the entire suspension gone over by a pro.
>
> So, to anybody reading this, when doing your own brake work, BE
> CAREFUL when you road test your vehicle. I was EXTREMELY lucky. and
> probably stupid. OK definitely stupid.
I think the primary problem here was the repalcement of just one
caliper.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
08-28-2007, 02:25 PM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 98 civic brake drag issue
Thanks for the replies.
Will do a more thorough suspension check tonight. On the way home from work,
I will be picking up:
Passenger side caliper
Both rear upper suspension arms
Wheel bearing
Hopefully doing the suspension arms will make the car roadworthy enough to
bring to a shop.
Anyone got anything against Kal Tire for alignments? I was thinking about
getting 2 new tires, thought I could kill 2 birds with 1 stone. The Honda
dealers in winnipeg aren't great for alignments.
Thanks
t
Tegger wrote:
>> Thanks Tegger for your hard work on that website and input.
>>
>> So I replaced the Brake Caliper again. Got it from Partsource. I
>> know this is not a preferred source, but thats where the original
>> replacement came from, and they asked me to try this before they would
>> refund my money.
>
>You should apply a bit of Sil-Glyde to the hydraulic piston so it will
>slide more easily on the seal. The Sil-Glyde helps prevent gum buildup
>that causes piston seizure. Aftermarket remans often are assembled with
>brake fluid, to save on costs.
>
>
>
>> This time, the clips and hardware that came with the caliper actually
>> worked. As I mentioned earlier, I figured that would be one of the
>[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>> Got it all installed, lubed her up as you indicated (careful not to
>> get any on the rotor surface or surrounding areas).
>
>And making sure to put just a tiny dab (1/8" dia on rears, 1/4" on
>fronts) on the squeal shims. The grease will like crazy once the
>piston clamps everything together.
>
>> On another topic, as I indicated earlier, I have now confirmed that
>> the front wheel bearing is bad on the same side the caliper was
>> dragging. Since the caliper was defective, do you think Partsource
>> will help me out on the bearing? Pretty sure the reason it failed was
>> due to heat buildup from the bad caliper. I guess there is a margin
>> for installation error, but is it worth a shot?
>
>I suppose so, but I don't think you'll get very far. They can simply
>point out that wheel bearings go bad all the time through simple
>corrosion. You can't know for sure unless you remove it and take it
>apart.
>
>> So then I bled out the new caliper. Took it for a short spin to try
>> some low speed braking to check for pulling left or right,
>[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>> suddenly went all squirrelly on me, got away from me, and I ended up
>> in the ditch.
>
>Sorry to hear that.
>
>What may have happened here is that the replacement of just one caliper
>caused an imbalance in braking effort. It is always best to rebuild or
>replace in axle sets, just like shocks. This way you're assured of equal
>effort from either caliper.
>
>> So now I have other issues. I am OK by the way. The car is mostly
>> undamaged. It definitely needs an alignment now, along with a few
>[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>> 1. Both lower ball joints are under a year old. They seem fine using
>> the 'reef on the tire while on the ground' method.
>
>Not reliable. Pop the taper, lever the lower arm out of the way, then
>wiggle by hand. That's the only sure way to tell.
>
>> 2. Both Upper ball joints - no extra play. Tried moving the steering
>> knuckle back and forth to test this.
>
>Again, not necessarily a good test. Test as lower ***** above.
>
>> 3. Tie rods - no extra play. Just grabbed one and tried moving back
>> and forth. There is a small amount of play due to a worn steering
>> u-joint, but the tie rods and rack seem OK.
>
>Were the tires jacked up so they were at their usual attitude relative
>to the body, or were they hanging down? Wear will be masked if the
>steering linkage is not at its usual riding attitude.
>
>> 4. Springs all around. - no problems apparent. Visual inspection in
>> the areas Tegger indicated.
>
>Broken springs tend to be experientially invisible; you won't know the
>spring is broken unless you look.
>
>> 5. Rear upper control arms - both are shot. Once again, the 'reef on
>> the tire' method. LOTS of play here. They are definitely shot. The
>> Rear Upper arm does come with both bushings (inner and outer) so I am
>> hoping this will fix that.
>
>Replacing the upper arm is very easy, but it's best to use an impact
>wrench.
>
>> 6. Rear Lower control arms - no noticeable play. Wasn't quite sure
>> how to test these, but everything appeared tight.
>
>Check for cracks in the big bushing. Let the tire hang so as to distort
>the bushing, then have a look with a strong light. Cracks will be
>obvious. Anything but a complete breakup means the bushing is OK for
>now.
>
>> Did I miss anything?
>>
>> The car doesn't feel safe at highway speeds right now, though the
>> steering seems fine. I'm thinking its the play from the rear upper
>> arms that is causing the problem here.
>
>It's possible. At this point I would take the car to a trusted shop and
>have the entire suspension gone over by a pro.
>
>> So, to anybody reading this, when doing your own brake work, BE
>> CAREFUL when you road test your vehicle. I was EXTREMELY lucky. and
>> probably stupid. OK definitely stupid.
>
>I think the primary problem here was the repalcement of just one
>caliper.
>
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1
Will do a more thorough suspension check tonight. On the way home from work,
I will be picking up:
Passenger side caliper
Both rear upper suspension arms
Wheel bearing
Hopefully doing the suspension arms will make the car roadworthy enough to
bring to a shop.
Anyone got anything against Kal Tire for alignments? I was thinking about
getting 2 new tires, thought I could kill 2 birds with 1 stone. The Honda
dealers in winnipeg aren't great for alignments.
Thanks
t
Tegger wrote:
>> Thanks Tegger for your hard work on that website and input.
>>
>> So I replaced the Brake Caliper again. Got it from Partsource. I
>> know this is not a preferred source, but thats where the original
>> replacement came from, and they asked me to try this before they would
>> refund my money.
>
>You should apply a bit of Sil-Glyde to the hydraulic piston so it will
>slide more easily on the seal. The Sil-Glyde helps prevent gum buildup
>that causes piston seizure. Aftermarket remans often are assembled with
>brake fluid, to save on costs.
>
>
>
>> This time, the clips and hardware that came with the caliper actually
>> worked. As I mentioned earlier, I figured that would be one of the
>[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>> Got it all installed, lubed her up as you indicated (careful not to
>> get any on the rotor surface or surrounding areas).
>
>And making sure to put just a tiny dab (1/8" dia on rears, 1/4" on
>fronts) on the squeal shims. The grease will like crazy once the
>piston clamps everything together.
>
>> On another topic, as I indicated earlier, I have now confirmed that
>> the front wheel bearing is bad on the same side the caliper was
>> dragging. Since the caliper was defective, do you think Partsource
>> will help me out on the bearing? Pretty sure the reason it failed was
>> due to heat buildup from the bad caliper. I guess there is a margin
>> for installation error, but is it worth a shot?
>
>I suppose so, but I don't think you'll get very far. They can simply
>point out that wheel bearings go bad all the time through simple
>corrosion. You can't know for sure unless you remove it and take it
>apart.
>
>> So then I bled out the new caliper. Took it for a short spin to try
>> some low speed braking to check for pulling left or right,
>[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>> suddenly went all squirrelly on me, got away from me, and I ended up
>> in the ditch.
>
>Sorry to hear that.
>
>What may have happened here is that the replacement of just one caliper
>caused an imbalance in braking effort. It is always best to rebuild or
>replace in axle sets, just like shocks. This way you're assured of equal
>effort from either caliper.
>
>> So now I have other issues. I am OK by the way. The car is mostly
>> undamaged. It definitely needs an alignment now, along with a few
>[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>> 1. Both lower ball joints are under a year old. They seem fine using
>> the 'reef on the tire while on the ground' method.
>
>Not reliable. Pop the taper, lever the lower arm out of the way, then
>wiggle by hand. That's the only sure way to tell.
>
>> 2. Both Upper ball joints - no extra play. Tried moving the steering
>> knuckle back and forth to test this.
>
>Again, not necessarily a good test. Test as lower ***** above.
>
>> 3. Tie rods - no extra play. Just grabbed one and tried moving back
>> and forth. There is a small amount of play due to a worn steering
>> u-joint, but the tie rods and rack seem OK.
>
>Were the tires jacked up so they were at their usual attitude relative
>to the body, or were they hanging down? Wear will be masked if the
>steering linkage is not at its usual riding attitude.
>
>> 4. Springs all around. - no problems apparent. Visual inspection in
>> the areas Tegger indicated.
>
>Broken springs tend to be experientially invisible; you won't know the
>spring is broken unless you look.
>
>> 5. Rear upper control arms - both are shot. Once again, the 'reef on
>> the tire' method. LOTS of play here. They are definitely shot. The
>> Rear Upper arm does come with both bushings (inner and outer) so I am
>> hoping this will fix that.
>
>Replacing the upper arm is very easy, but it's best to use an impact
>wrench.
>
>> 6. Rear Lower control arms - no noticeable play. Wasn't quite sure
>> how to test these, but everything appeared tight.
>
>Check for cracks in the big bushing. Let the tire hang so as to distort
>the bushing, then have a look with a strong light. Cracks will be
>obvious. Anything but a complete breakup means the bushing is OK for
>now.
>
>> Did I miss anything?
>>
>> The car doesn't feel safe at highway speeds right now, though the
>> steering seems fine. I'm thinking its the play from the rear upper
>> arms that is causing the problem here.
>
>It's possible. At this point I would take the car to a trusted shop and
>have the entire suspension gone over by a pro.
>
>> So, to anybody reading this, when doing your own brake work, BE
>> CAREFUL when you road test your vehicle. I was EXTREMELY lucky. and
>> probably stupid. OK definitely stupid.
>
>I think the primary problem here was the repalcement of just one
>caliper.
>
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1
08-28-2007, 02:25 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 98 civic brake drag issue
Thanks for the replies.
Will do a more thorough suspension check tonight. On the way home from work,
I will be picking up:
Passenger side caliper
Both rear upper suspension arms
Wheel bearing
Hopefully doing the suspension arms will make the car roadworthy enough to
bring to a shop.
Anyone got anything against Kal Tire for alignments? I was thinking about
getting 2 new tires, thought I could kill 2 birds with 1 stone. The Honda
dealers in winnipeg aren't great for alignments.
Thanks
t
Tegger wrote:
>> Thanks Tegger for your hard work on that website and input.
>>
>> So I replaced the Brake Caliper again. Got it from Partsource. I
>> know this is not a preferred source, but thats where the original
>> replacement came from, and they asked me to try this before they would
>> refund my money.
>
>You should apply a bit of Sil-Glyde to the hydraulic piston so it will
>slide more easily on the seal. The Sil-Glyde helps prevent gum buildup
>that causes piston seizure. Aftermarket remans often are assembled with
>brake fluid, to save on costs.
>
>
>
>> This time, the clips and hardware that came with the caliper actually
>> worked. As I mentioned earlier, I figured that would be one of the
>[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>> Got it all installed, lubed her up as you indicated (careful not to
>> get any on the rotor surface or surrounding areas).
>
>And making sure to put just a tiny dab (1/8" dia on rears, 1/4" on
>fronts) on the squeal shims. The grease will like crazy once the
>piston clamps everything together.
>
>> On another topic, as I indicated earlier, I have now confirmed that
>> the front wheel bearing is bad on the same side the caliper was
>> dragging. Since the caliper was defective, do you think Partsource
>> will help me out on the bearing? Pretty sure the reason it failed was
>> due to heat buildup from the bad caliper. I guess there is a margin
>> for installation error, but is it worth a shot?
>
>I suppose so, but I don't think you'll get very far. They can simply
>point out that wheel bearings go bad all the time through simple
>corrosion. You can't know for sure unless you remove it and take it
>apart.
>
>> So then I bled out the new caliper. Took it for a short spin to try
>> some low speed braking to check for pulling left or right,
>[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>> suddenly went all squirrelly on me, got away from me, and I ended up
>> in the ditch.
>
>Sorry to hear that.
>
>What may have happened here is that the replacement of just one caliper
>caused an imbalance in braking effort. It is always best to rebuild or
>replace in axle sets, just like shocks. This way you're assured of equal
>effort from either caliper.
>
>> So now I have other issues. I am OK by the way. The car is mostly
>> undamaged. It definitely needs an alignment now, along with a few
>[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>> 1. Both lower ball joints are under a year old. They seem fine using
>> the 'reef on the tire while on the ground' method.
>
>Not reliable. Pop the taper, lever the lower arm out of the way, then
>wiggle by hand. That's the only sure way to tell.
>
>> 2. Both Upper ball joints - no extra play. Tried moving the steering
>> knuckle back and forth to test this.
>
>Again, not necessarily a good test. Test as lower ***** above.
>
>> 3. Tie rods - no extra play. Just grabbed one and tried moving back
>> and forth. There is a small amount of play due to a worn steering
>> u-joint, but the tie rods and rack seem OK.
>
>Were the tires jacked up so they were at their usual attitude relative
>to the body, or were they hanging down? Wear will be masked if the
>steering linkage is not at its usual riding attitude.
>
>> 4. Springs all around. - no problems apparent. Visual inspection in
>> the areas Tegger indicated.
>
>Broken springs tend to be experientially invisible; you won't know the
>spring is broken unless you look.
>
>> 5. Rear upper control arms - both are shot. Once again, the 'reef on
>> the tire' method. LOTS of play here. They are definitely shot. The
>> Rear Upper arm does come with both bushings (inner and outer) so I am
>> hoping this will fix that.
>
>Replacing the upper arm is very easy, but it's best to use an impact
>wrench.
>
>> 6. Rear Lower control arms - no noticeable play. Wasn't quite sure
>> how to test these, but everything appeared tight.
>
>Check for cracks in the big bushing. Let the tire hang so as to distort
>the bushing, then have a look with a strong light. Cracks will be
>obvious. Anything but a complete breakup means the bushing is OK for
>now.
>
>> Did I miss anything?
>>
>> The car doesn't feel safe at highway speeds right now, though the
>> steering seems fine. I'm thinking its the play from the rear upper
>> arms that is causing the problem here.
>
>It's possible. At this point I would take the car to a trusted shop and
>have the entire suspension gone over by a pro.
>
>> So, to anybody reading this, when doing your own brake work, BE
>> CAREFUL when you road test your vehicle. I was EXTREMELY lucky. and
>> probably stupid. OK definitely stupid.
>
>I think the primary problem here was the repalcement of just one
>caliper.
>
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1
Will do a more thorough suspension check tonight. On the way home from work,
I will be picking up:
Passenger side caliper
Both rear upper suspension arms
Wheel bearing
Hopefully doing the suspension arms will make the car roadworthy enough to
bring to a shop.
Anyone got anything against Kal Tire for alignments? I was thinking about
getting 2 new tires, thought I could kill 2 birds with 1 stone. The Honda
dealers in winnipeg aren't great for alignments.
Thanks
t
Tegger wrote:
>> Thanks Tegger for your hard work on that website and input.
>>
>> So I replaced the Brake Caliper again. Got it from Partsource. I
>> know this is not a preferred source, but thats where the original
>> replacement came from, and they asked me to try this before they would
>> refund my money.
>
>You should apply a bit of Sil-Glyde to the hydraulic piston so it will
>slide more easily on the seal. The Sil-Glyde helps prevent gum buildup
>that causes piston seizure. Aftermarket remans often are assembled with
>brake fluid, to save on costs.
>
>
>
>> This time, the clips and hardware that came with the caliper actually
>> worked. As I mentioned earlier, I figured that would be one of the
>[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>> Got it all installed, lubed her up as you indicated (careful not to
>> get any on the rotor surface or surrounding areas).
>
>And making sure to put just a tiny dab (1/8" dia on rears, 1/4" on
>fronts) on the squeal shims. The grease will like crazy once the
>piston clamps everything together.
>
>> On another topic, as I indicated earlier, I have now confirmed that
>> the front wheel bearing is bad on the same side the caliper was
>> dragging. Since the caliper was defective, do you think Partsource
>> will help me out on the bearing? Pretty sure the reason it failed was
>> due to heat buildup from the bad caliper. I guess there is a margin
>> for installation error, but is it worth a shot?
>
>I suppose so, but I don't think you'll get very far. They can simply
>point out that wheel bearings go bad all the time through simple
>corrosion. You can't know for sure unless you remove it and take it
>apart.
>
>> So then I bled out the new caliper. Took it for a short spin to try
>> some low speed braking to check for pulling left or right,
>[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>> suddenly went all squirrelly on me, got away from me, and I ended up
>> in the ditch.
>
>Sorry to hear that.
>
>What may have happened here is that the replacement of just one caliper
>caused an imbalance in braking effort. It is always best to rebuild or
>replace in axle sets, just like shocks. This way you're assured of equal
>effort from either caliper.
>
>> So now I have other issues. I am OK by the way. The car is mostly
>> undamaged. It definitely needs an alignment now, along with a few
>[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>> 1. Both lower ball joints are under a year old. They seem fine using
>> the 'reef on the tire while on the ground' method.
>
>Not reliable. Pop the taper, lever the lower arm out of the way, then
>wiggle by hand. That's the only sure way to tell.
>
>> 2. Both Upper ball joints - no extra play. Tried moving the steering
>> knuckle back and forth to test this.
>
>Again, not necessarily a good test. Test as lower ***** above.
>
>> 3. Tie rods - no extra play. Just grabbed one and tried moving back
>> and forth. There is a small amount of play due to a worn steering
>> u-joint, but the tie rods and rack seem OK.
>
>Were the tires jacked up so they were at their usual attitude relative
>to the body, or were they hanging down? Wear will be masked if the
>steering linkage is not at its usual riding attitude.
>
>> 4. Springs all around. - no problems apparent. Visual inspection in
>> the areas Tegger indicated.
>
>Broken springs tend to be experientially invisible; you won't know the
>spring is broken unless you look.
>
>> 5. Rear upper control arms - both are shot. Once again, the 'reef on
>> the tire' method. LOTS of play here. They are definitely shot. The
>> Rear Upper arm does come with both bushings (inner and outer) so I am
>> hoping this will fix that.
>
>Replacing the upper arm is very easy, but it's best to use an impact
>wrench.
>
>> 6. Rear Lower control arms - no noticeable play. Wasn't quite sure
>> how to test these, but everything appeared tight.
>
>Check for cracks in the big bushing. Let the tire hang so as to distort
>the bushing, then have a look with a strong light. Cracks will be
>obvious. Anything but a complete breakup means the bushing is OK for
>now.
>
>> Did I miss anything?
>>
>> The car doesn't feel safe at highway speeds right now, though the
>> steering seems fine. I'm thinking its the play from the rear upper
>> arms that is causing the problem here.
>
>It's possible. At this point I would take the car to a trusted shop and
>have the entire suspension gone over by a pro.
>
>> So, to anybody reading this, when doing your own brake work, BE
>> CAREFUL when you road test your vehicle. I was EXTREMELY lucky. and
>> probably stupid. OK definitely stupid.
>
>I think the primary problem here was the repalcement of just one
>caliper.
>
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1
08-28-2007, 04:42 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 98 civic brake drag issue
Perhaps stupid question.... Should front wheel bearings be done in pairs?
t
loewent wrote:
>Thanks for the replies.
>
>Will do a more thorough suspension check tonight. On the way home from work,
>I will be picking up:
>
>Passenger side caliper
>Both rear upper suspension arms
>Wheel bearing
>
>Hopefully doing the suspension arms will make the car roadworthy enough to
>bring to a shop.
>
>Anyone got anything against Kal Tire for alignments? I was thinking about
>getting 2 new tires, thought I could kill 2 birds with 1 stone. The Honda
>dealers in winnipeg aren't great for alignments.
>
>Thanks
>t
>
>>> Thanks Tegger for your hard work on that website and input.
>>>
>[quoted text clipped - 102 lines]
>>I think the primary problem here was the repalcement of just one
>>caliper.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1
t
loewent wrote:
>Thanks for the replies.
>
>Will do a more thorough suspension check tonight. On the way home from work,
>I will be picking up:
>
>Passenger side caliper
>Both rear upper suspension arms
>Wheel bearing
>
>Hopefully doing the suspension arms will make the car roadworthy enough to
>bring to a shop.
>
>Anyone got anything against Kal Tire for alignments? I was thinking about
>getting 2 new tires, thought I could kill 2 birds with 1 stone. The Honda
>dealers in winnipeg aren't great for alignments.
>
>Thanks
>t
>
>>> Thanks Tegger for your hard work on that website and input.
>>>
>[quoted text clipped - 102 lines]
>>I think the primary problem here was the repalcement of just one
>>caliper.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1
08-28-2007, 04:42 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 98 civic brake drag issue
Perhaps stupid question.... Should front wheel bearings be done in pairs?
t
loewent wrote:
>Thanks for the replies.
>
>Will do a more thorough suspension check tonight. On the way home from work,
>I will be picking up:
>
>Passenger side caliper
>Both rear upper suspension arms
>Wheel bearing
>
>Hopefully doing the suspension arms will make the car roadworthy enough to
>bring to a shop.
>
>Anyone got anything against Kal Tire for alignments? I was thinking about
>getting 2 new tires, thought I could kill 2 birds with 1 stone. The Honda
>dealers in winnipeg aren't great for alignments.
>
>Thanks
>t
>
>>> Thanks Tegger for your hard work on that website and input.
>>>
>[quoted text clipped - 102 lines]
>>I think the primary problem here was the repalcement of just one
>>caliper.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1
t
loewent wrote:
>Thanks for the replies.
>
>Will do a more thorough suspension check tonight. On the way home from work,
>I will be picking up:
>
>Passenger side caliper
>Both rear upper suspension arms
>Wheel bearing
>
>Hopefully doing the suspension arms will make the car roadworthy enough to
>bring to a shop.
>
>Anyone got anything against Kal Tire for alignments? I was thinking about
>getting 2 new tires, thought I could kill 2 birds with 1 stone. The Honda
>dealers in winnipeg aren't great for alignments.
>
>Thanks
>t
>
>>> Thanks Tegger for your hard work on that website and input.
>>>
>[quoted text clipped - 102 lines]
>>I think the primary problem here was the repalcement of just one
>>caliper.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1
08-28-2007, 04:56 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 98 civic brake drag issue
"loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote in news:7762e20f4870b@uwe:
> Perhaps stupid question.... Should front wheel bearings be done in
> pairs?
Not necessary, no.
However, if one is going, the other will be a year or three behind.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
> Perhaps stupid question.... Should front wheel bearings be done in
> pairs?
Not necessary, no.
However, if one is going, the other will be a year or three behind.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
08-28-2007, 04:56 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 98 civic brake drag issue
"loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote in news:7762e20f4870b@uwe:
> Perhaps stupid question.... Should front wheel bearings be done in
> pairs?
Not necessary, no.
However, if one is going, the other will be a year or three behind.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
> Perhaps stupid question.... Should front wheel bearings be done in
> pairs?
Not necessary, no.
However, if one is going, the other will be a year or three behind.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/