98 Civic Ignition Timing
Hello,
I have posted a similar message last week regarding my 98 Civic LX ignition timing. I have originally replaced the distributor, but my ignition timing was retarded by aprox 14 degrees. Thanks to the usefull comments on this group, I have checked my timing belt alignment. Because I wasn't sure if it was the original timing belt, I changed it as well as the water pump. Less $100 for the next 90000 peace of mind. When I put everything together, I've made sure that the camshaft and everything else was properly alligned. After everything was put together, I have checked my timing, while the service connector on the passager side was jumpered, and it seemed to be perfect. The engine pointer was alligned with the middle marker of the three when I first started. I was happy, and I left the car running for about 10 minutes because Haynes recomends to adjust the timing after the engine is warm and the cooling fan starts. I walked away for 10 minutes with the car running, but when I came back the timing was retarded again. It seemed very weird especially that I've jumpered the service connector. I thought that the timing belt jumped a tooth again. I checked the timing belt alignment again and it seemed fine. The camshaft markers were aligned with the cylinder head block and the crankshaft pulley was poiting to the TDC mark (the white one). The car runs fine, without any noticeable loss of power, but I'm a little worried about why my timing is off. Right now the timing is. V ||| | Maybe I'm not jumpering the right service connector, but it is the one that shows me emission control codes (flashing engine light). I don't have any engine light codes though. I'm puzzled why the timing retarded while I walked away from the car. I can't advance the distributor any further. Is there another special disconnect for the ignition timing? Thank you for your advice. |
Re: 98 Civic Ignition Timing
<acioaca@lycos.com> wrote
> I was happy, and I left the car running for about 10 minutes > because Haynes recomends to adjust the timing after the engine is warm > and the cooling fan starts. Little aside that could be a bit important: Does your cooling fan really start after only ten minutes? Even in summer-y weather, my 1991 Civic's radiator fan takes at least 35 minutes of idling before it comes on. |
Re: 98 Civic Ignition Timing
acioaca@lycos.com wrote in
news:1128184561.622447.285890@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com: <snip> > I'm a little worried about why my timing > is off. Right now the timing is. > V >||| | > Maybe I'm not jumpering the right service connector, but it is the one > that shows me emission control codes (flashing engine light). It's a 2-pin connector with brown and black wires. It's under the dash on the passenger side. > I don't > have any engine light codes though. I'm puzzled why the timing retarded > while I walked away from the car. I can't advance the distributor any > further. Is there another special disconnect for the ignition timing? > > Thank you for your advice. > > Are you sure you're connecting the timing light to the #1 plug wire? If the light is inductive, make sure it's clipped to the plug wire as far as possible from any other wire. If you've been jumping the correct wire, you may be probably picking up the signal from a different plug. (#3?) If the above is true, your plug wires are electrically leaky and in need of replacement (with OEM!). -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: 98 Civic Ignition Timing
"TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in
news:Xns96E284B50D25Ctegger@207.14.113.17: > > If you've been jumping the correct wire, Typo: I meant to say jumping the correct under-dash CONNECTOR. The timing connector and the Service Check connector appear to be the same thing. > you may be probably picking > up the signal from a different plug. (#3?) > > If the above is true, your plug wires are electrically leaky and in > need of replacement (with OEM!). > > -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: 98 Civic Ignition Timing
After further investigating, I have found the following. Immediately as
the car starts the timing is ok. Then, the timing retards after 10-20 seconds. The service connector is jumpered because the engine light stays on when the car starts. I've made sure not to be around any other wires when testing. Right now, I'm connecting to the #1 wire close to the spark plug end. The wires and spark plugs were replaced with new ones while I was debugging the bad distributor problem. I've bought the wires from Autozone, are they OEM? I will try to change with the old ones. By the way I found a good link for replacing the timing belt: http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/0406ht_timing/ Tegger, please add it the website so others can use it. Thanks. |
Re: 98 Civic Ignition Timing
acioaca@lycos.com wrote:
> After further investigating, I have found the following. Immediately as > the car starts the timing is ok. Then, the timing retards after 10-20 > seconds. The service connector is jumpered because the engine light > stays on when the car starts. "because"??? what code are you getting? > I've made sure not to be around any other > wires when testing. Right now, I'm connecting to the #1 wire close to > the spark plug end. The wires and spark plugs were replaced with new > ones while I was debugging the bad distributor problem. I've bought the > wires from Autozone, are they OEM? I will try to change with the old > ones. By the way I found a good link for replacing the timing belt: > http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/0406ht_timing/ > Tegger, please add it the website so others can use it. > Thanks. > |
Re: 98 Civic Ignition Timing
I meant the engine light stays on when you have the service connector
jumpered. If there are errors it flashes. I don't have any codes and it only stays on. When I pull out the service connector jumper, it goes off. I think this is normal. |
Re: 98 Civic Ignition Timing
acioaca@lycos.com wrote in
news:1128211156.028337.322650@f14g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com: > After further investigating, I have found the following. Immediately as > the car starts the timing is ok. Then, the timing retards after 10-20 > seconds. You should have the engine *fully-warm* before you attempt to adjust the timing. Go take it for a fifteen-minute drive first, THEN adjust the timing. If the engine is fully-warm, and the timing light is hooked up, and you adjust the distributor so the timing marks are correctly lined up, and you wait 10-15 seconds, does the timing then suddenly jump to retarded? > The service connector is jumpered because the engine light > stays on when the car starts. I've made sure not to be around any other > wires when testing. Right now, I'm connecting to the #1 wire close to > the spark plug end. The wires and spark plugs were replaced with new > ones while I was debugging the bad distributor problem. I've bought the > wires from Autozone, are they OEM? NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They are aftermarket!!!!!!!!!!! Go to the dealer for OEM. Although in this case it will make no difference to what you're seeing with your timing. > I will try to change with the old > ones. By the way I found a good link for replacing the timing belt: > http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/0406ht_timing/ > Tegger, please add it the website so others can use it. Another thing to add to my list. Thanks for the link. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: 98 Civic Ignition Timing
acioaca@lycos.com wrote:
> I meant the engine light stays on when you have the service connector > jumpered. If there are errors it flashes. I don't have any codes and it > only stays on. When I pull out the service connector jumper, it goes > off. I think this is normal. > go to a store that will read the codes stored in your ecu for you, or go to sears & buy a $160 code reader for yourself. your onboard diagnostics will tell you if there are any other problems before you start messing about with the timing. and why did you change the distributor? what code was stored then? |
Re: 98 Civic Ignition Timing
jim beam wrote: > acioaca@lycos.com wrote: > > I meant the engine light stays on when you have the service connector > > jumpered. If there are errors it flashes. I don't have any codes and it > > only stays on. When I pull out the service connector jumper, it goes > > off. I think this is normal. > > > go to a store that will read the codes stored in your ecu for you, or go > to sears & buy a $160 code reader for yourself. your onboard > diagnostics will tell you if there are any other problems before you > start messing about with the timing. and why did you change the > distributor? what code was stored then? Jim There were never any engine codes. After a serious rain over a weekend the car stopped suddenly after 10 seconds after starting the following monday. I have replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, distributor rotor, ignition switch, map sensor, main relay and fuel filter without any success. I was getting sparks on each wire when I was cranking the car and the injectors were firing. Also I was hearing the fuel pump working when the ignition was on. I didn't no what to do so I took it to a shop for a diagnostic. They called me the next day saying that the Kv were not consistent and offered to replace the distributor. I refused, because it's cheaper to change it myself. When I came to pick up my car from them, I drove it home, but they've told me that they don't know how long it'll run. I've replaced the distributor and now it runs even after it rains. The only issue I have now is alligning the timing. Again, my engine light is not on unless I jumper the service connector. That should be normal because that's how you read the engine light flashes. |
Re: 98 Civic Ignition Timing
acioaca@lycos.com wrote:
> jim beam wrote: > >>acioaca@lycos.com wrote: >> >>>I meant the engine light stays on when you have the service connector >>>jumpered. If there are errors it flashes. I don't have any codes and it >>>only stays on. When I pull out the service connector jumper, it goes >>>off. I think this is normal. >>> >> >>go to a store that will read the codes stored in your ecu for you, or go >>to sears & buy a $160 code reader for yourself. your onboard >>diagnostics will tell you if there are any other problems before you >>start messing about with the timing. and why did you change the >>distributor? what code was stored then? > > > Jim > > There were never any engine codes. After a serious rain over a weekend > the car stopped suddenly after 10 seconds after starting the following > monday. I have replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, > distributor rotor, ignition switch, map sensor, main relay and fuel > filter without any success. I was getting sparks on each wire when I > was cranking the car and the injectors were firing. Also I was hearing > the fuel pump working when the ignition was on. I didn't no what to do > so I took it to a shop for a diagnostic. They called me the next day > saying that the Kv were not consistent and offered to replace the > distributor. I refused, because it's cheaper to change it myself. When > I came to pick up my car from them, I drove it home, but they've told > me that they don't know how long it'll run. I've replaced the > distributor and now it runs even after it rains. The only issue I have > now is alligning the timing. Again, my engine light is not on unless I > jumper the service connector. That should be normal because that's how > you read the engine light flashes. > regarding codes, afaik, obdcII cars don't flash codes through the check engine light - you need a diagnostic scanner that connects into the obdcII plug in the driver's foot well. if you did read for codes with the scanner and got nothing, great. but if you were having random misfire problems, this is unlikely. check that next time before replacing stuff! regarding the new distributor timing, i return to the timing belt. the ecu gets its firing signal from a sensor in the distributor, which is connected to the cam, which is connected to the crank. afaik, there is no way for the distributor to be just this little bit off without it being a timing belt issue. iirc, there's 40 teeth in the cam pulley. that's 9 degrees per tooth. one or two of those and you have your timing difference. especially as you replaced the timing belt at the same time as the problem appeared. sorry, but you have to take that cover off again and sets the belts right. make sure you /ONLY/ turn the crank anti-clockwise and set the belt tension correctly. per the honda manual, "rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 3 teeth on the camshaft to create tension on the timing belt" before tightening the tension pulley. if it's not tight enough, it'll jump. once that's resolved and the timing's fixed again, notch the distributor housing and cylinder head relative to each other. that way, if you ever take the distributor off again, you'll be able to replace it in the correct position. any variance subsequent to that will not be a distributor problem! for future reference, the "inconsistent kV" was almost certainly a failing coil. that's a $70 fix that does not require distributor removal. |
Re: 98 Civic Ignition Timing
jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in
news:6IednfOWmNS0D93eRVn-jA@speakeasy.net: > acioaca@lycos.com wrote: >> jim beam wrote: >> <snip> > > regarding codes, afaik, obdcII cars don't flash codes through the > check engine light - you need a diagnostic scanner that connects into > the obdcII plug in the driver's foot well. Honda retained the flashing-light method at least up to the 2000 model year. It's even in the factory manual. > if you did read for codes > with the scanner and got nothing, great. but if you were having > random misfire problems, this is unlikely. check that next time > before replacing stuff! > > regarding the new distributor timing, i return to the timing belt. > the ecu gets its firing signal from a sensor in the distributor, which > is connected to the cam, which is connected to the crank. afaik, > there is no way for the distributor to be just this little bit off > without it being a timing belt issue. iirc, there's 40 teeth in the > cam pulley. that's 9 degrees per tooth. one or two of those and you > have your timing difference. especially as you replaced the timing > belt at the same time as the problem appeared. sorry, but you have to > take that cover off again and sets the belts right. make sure you > /ONLY/ turn the crank anti-clockwise and set the belt tension > correctly. per the honda manual, "rotate the crankshaft > counterclockwise 3 teeth on the camshaft to create tension on the > timing belt" before tightening the tension pulley. if it's not tight > enough, it'll jump. Given the OP's report of a "sudden" change in timing, and given that he's made sure he's not picking up the signal from an adjacent HT wire, I'd agree it's got to be a timing belt tension issue. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: 98 Civic Ignition Timing
I have looked at the timing belt again. It is lined up on both the
camshaft and crankshaft. I noticed that it was a little loose between the camshaft and crankshaft. I took jim's advice and I have loosened the tensioner, spinned the crankshaft counterclockwise (about 3 teeth on the camshaft) and tightened the tensioner. It seemed tighter then. After I have put everything together, I'm having the same problem. Jim said to only turn the crankspaft counterclockwise, but that would throw off the alignment with the arrow on the engine block. If the belt is installed, when I turn the crankshaft the camshaft will also turn. I don't see how you'd only turn one without the other and still be on the marks specified (cylinder block alignment for the camshaft and arrow alignment for the crankshaft). It seems to me that the tensioner only tightens the section between the crankshaft and water pump. What I mean is that once it reaches a point, it can't tighten the region between the water pump and camshaft. It would need to jump a tooth to tighten it more. The region between water pump and camshaft seems a little loose, but not enough to get one tooth out and give it to the tensioner side. What are the specs for belt tensioning? Could I measure tension myself with common tools? Thanks for all your support. |
Re: 98 Civic Ignition Timing
acioaca@lycos.com wrote:
> I have looked at the timing belt again. It is lined up on both the > camshaft and crankshaft. I noticed that it was a little loose between > the camshaft and crankshaft. I took jim's advice and I have loosened > the tensioner, spinned the crankshaft counterclockwise (about 3 teeth > on the camshaft) and tightened the tensioner. It seemed tighter then. > After I have put everything together, I'm having the same problem. Jim > said to only turn the crankspaft counterclockwise, but that would throw > off the alignment with the arrow on the engine block. that's because the timing's not set right!!! when it is set correctly, the crank and cam are perfectly aligned with their timing marks when the belt is fully tensioned. > If the belt is > installed, when I turn the crankshaft the camshaft will also turn. ??? > I > don't see how you'd only turn one without the other and still be on the > marks specified (cylinder block alignment for the camshaft and arrow > alignment for the crankshaft). see first comment above!!! > It seems to me that the tensioner only > tightens the section between the crankshaft and water pump. What I mean > is that once it reaches a point, it can't tighten the region between > the water pump and camshaft. no. as far as a running engine is concerned, the cam is free to turn and the crank is free to turn. in this situation, tension in any one part of the belt is idential with any other part of the belt. > It would need to jump a tooth to tighten > it more. The region between water pump and camshaft seems a little > loose, but not enough to get one tooth out and give it to the tensioner > side. What are the specs for belt tensioning? Could I measure tension > myself with common tools? no. the tensioner pulley is spring loaded. if you follow the tensioning procedure correctly, the spring loads the belt with exactly the correct tension. > > Thanks for all your support. > |
Re: 98 Civic Ignition Timing
acioaca@lycos.com wrote in
news:1128391648.479204.113380@g49g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com: > I have looked at the timing belt again. It is lined up on both the > camshaft and crankshaft. I noticed that it was a little loose between > the camshaft and crankshaft. I took jim's advice and I have loosened > the tensioner, spinned the crankshaft counterclockwise (about 3 teeth > on the camshaft) and tightened the tensioner. It seemed tighter then. > After I have put everything together, I'm having the same problem. Jim > said to only turn the crankspaft counterclockwise, but that would throw > off the alignment with the arrow on the engine block. I think we may have a failure to convey a concept here. Let me try again: (Sorry for the capitals here; I'm not shouting, just highlighting certain keywords). To start off with, you MUST have the belt on with ALL the pulleys lining up with their respective zero marks. That is Step One, which out which NOTHING else will work. At this point, it doesn't matter if the belt is tight or slack. Slack is better, actually. Since the belt is cogged, the pulleys cannot slip out of time with each other unless the belt jumps a tooth, which is highly unlikely with it just sitting there. Now, the WHOLE POINT of the "three tooth" rotation is to place ALL THE SLACK on the TENSIONER/WATER PUMP side of the crankshaft pulley. You want it TIGHT between the CAM and CRANK, and LOOSE at the TENSIONER. The "three tooth" rotation does this for you. And you need the slack to STAY on the tensioner side, which you do by NOT LETTING GO OF THE WRENCH once you turn three teeth. Turning the crankshaft WILL move the cam too, but you ALREADY LINED THEM UP before you put the belt on. So long as you turn COUNTERclockwise only THREE TEETH, the risk of the belt jumping a tooth is non-existent, and the timing will REMAIN AS YOU SET IT. HOLDING the crank at the "three-tooth" rotation point, NOW you loosen the tensioner. You need to hold the crank from springing back in order to make sure ALL the slack STAYS on the TENSIONER side. If you turn it three teeth then LET GO again, the slack will redistribute itself and you will still have a loose belt. Use your foot or knee to hold the wrench if you need your hands somewhere else. If you've done this right, you will hear the tensioner give a little ZING noise as its spring pulls it up. Retighten tensioner, let go of crank wrench, check timing again. THE END. P.S.: There is another retensioning technique that involves pulling the tensioner back down again, but we won't get into that just now. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:11 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands