Re: advice on installing timing belt and wate rpump
Jeff wrote:
> > hold on, on all the super careful advice because i'm buying another car > anyway and i am just getting the parts installed but want it done right > and test the car out. if it acts up and a valve is bent it will run > terrible but i'm confident that's not the case. a lack of empirical experience tends to breed false confidence. your original post mentioned that you were driving on the freeway when the belt broke, this is a worst case scenario. the engine died with the transmission in gear thus it will keep spinning for a few rotations and the pistons will kiss the valves since theyre no longer in time. |
Re: advice on installing timing belt and wate rpump
"Jeff" <jeffscomp@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
news:sJoDg.11393$gY6.5185@newssvr11.news.prodigy.c om: > hold on, on all the super careful advice because i'm buying another > car anyway and i am just getting the parts installed but want it done > right and test the car out. if it acts up and a valve is bent it will > run terrible but i'm confident that's not the case. i just need to > know about the TDC question and what to look for. Once you get the crank pulley off, the timing belt cog has a TDC mark on it. The cam pulley also has an alignment mark on it. You line the two up properly (and I mean PROPERLY) and Bob's your uncle. You do need to make sure TDC is compression, which means both crank and cam marks have to line up at the same time. > i'm not replacing > any pulleys No, but you do have to take them off when replacing the timing belt, hence the other posters' admonishments. > and i don't think the water pump requires any sealant but > it might help. Do not put sealant on the water pump flange. Just scrape smooth and use a new gasket. > i'm not replacing the tensioner either for the timing > belt. You have to if it's worn. If you skimp on stuff like that just to keep your sale costs down, remind me never to buy a used car from you. > it was leaking antifreeze onto the timing belt and that caused > the slipping. What? If it was leaking bad enough to make the belt jump, either the belt was too loose, it was too old, or you were using silicated coolant. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: advice on installing timing belt and wate rpump
"Jeff" <jeffscomp@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
news:sJoDg.11393$gY6.5185@newssvr11.news.prodigy.c om: > hold on, on all the super careful advice because i'm buying another > car anyway and i am just getting the parts installed but want it done > right and test the car out. if it acts up and a valve is bent it will > run terrible but i'm confident that's not the case. i just need to > know about the TDC question and what to look for. Once you get the crank pulley off, the timing belt cog has a TDC mark on it. The cam pulley also has an alignment mark on it. You line the two up properly (and I mean PROPERLY) and Bob's your uncle. You do need to make sure TDC is compression, which means both crank and cam marks have to line up at the same time. > i'm not replacing > any pulleys No, but you do have to take them off when replacing the timing belt, hence the other posters' admonishments. > and i don't think the water pump requires any sealant but > it might help. Do not put sealant on the water pump flange. Just scrape smooth and use a new gasket. > i'm not replacing the tensioner either for the timing > belt. You have to if it's worn. If you skimp on stuff like that just to keep your sale costs down, remind me never to buy a used car from you. > it was leaking antifreeze onto the timing belt and that caused > the slipping. What? If it was leaking bad enough to make the belt jump, either the belt was too loose, it was too old, or you were using silicated coolant. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: advice on installing timing belt and wate rpump
"Jeff" <jeffscomp@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
news:sJoDg.11393$gY6.5185@newssvr11.news.prodigy.c om: > hold on, on all the super careful advice because i'm buying another > car anyway and i am just getting the parts installed but want it done > right and test the car out. if it acts up and a valve is bent it will > run terrible but i'm confident that's not the case. i just need to > know about the TDC question and what to look for. Once you get the crank pulley off, the timing belt cog has a TDC mark on it. The cam pulley also has an alignment mark on it. You line the two up properly (and I mean PROPERLY) and Bob's your uncle. You do need to make sure TDC is compression, which means both crank and cam marks have to line up at the same time. > i'm not replacing > any pulleys No, but you do have to take them off when replacing the timing belt, hence the other posters' admonishments. > and i don't think the water pump requires any sealant but > it might help. Do not put sealant on the water pump flange. Just scrape smooth and use a new gasket. > i'm not replacing the tensioner either for the timing > belt. You have to if it's worn. If you skimp on stuff like that just to keep your sale costs down, remind me never to buy a used car from you. > it was leaking antifreeze onto the timing belt and that caused > the slipping. What? If it was leaking bad enough to make the belt jump, either the belt was too loose, it was too old, or you were using silicated coolant. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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