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BIG Problem - HELP
Hello everyone,
As most of you probably know by now, I have a 1990 Honda Civic LX; 1.5L DPFI 5-speed. I'm having a HUGE problem with it now and need help from the experts. ;-) Here's the problem in a nutshell: After running at a 2,000RPM idle for about 15 seconds: (high RPM idle mentioned below) Check-Engine light comes on, throws code 16 (fuel injector circuit) Engine will not rev higher than 3500RPMs, if you try to, when the tach reaches that level, the engine will "stumble" at that point, just as if you have let off the gas. So, if you hold the gas pedal steady, the tach will jump back and forth between 3,000 and 3,500 RPMs. (Based on the sound of the engine RPMs speeding up and slowing down during this fluctuation, I'm sure the tach reading is correct) Engine falters and backfires severly during acceleration. Prior to this problem, for the last couple of days I noticed a scratchy-sounding noise coming from under the hood. This morning, my engine stumbled hard, almost to the point of shutting off, the noise stopped, and the problem started. :-( I talked to 2 mechanics and they said to replace the throttle body because it sounded like the throttle angle sensor was bad. Well, I took their advice, and did so. (Luckily, I did it myself..wasn't too hard to do either) ;-) Now, I still have the same problem, along with the idle fluctuating between 1,800 and 2,000RPMs. I checked the idle adjusting screw, and it is all the way out, so that's not causing the high idle speed. I know I could have another bad throttle body, as the one I got is a used one, but this does seem to be an electrical problem, and not a mechanical one. Does anyone have any ideas? Nobody around here seems to know. :-( Thanks in advance! Jonathan |
Re: BIG Problem - HELP
I've never personally seen this on a Honda, but the wild fluctuations in RPM
could happen when something is wrong with the cooling system. Make sure you don't have air bubbles in the system (maybe bleed it). Since the thermosensor feeds into the computer, it can cause weird things to happen when it doesn't see the right things. I wonder if the weird noise you heard could be the coolant pump. Maybe the injector code got thrown because the mixture is way off base but that is pure conjecture. This is just one possibility -- I am sure others here will have other things you'll want to look at. Remco |
Re: BIG Problem - HELP
I've never personally seen this on a Honda, but the wild fluctuations in RPM
could happen when something is wrong with the cooling system. Make sure you don't have air bubbles in the system (maybe bleed it). Since the thermosensor feeds into the computer, it can cause weird things to happen when it doesn't see the right things. I wonder if the weird noise you heard could be the coolant pump. Maybe the injector code got thrown because the mixture is way off base but that is pure conjecture. This is just one possibility -- I am sure others here will have other things you'll want to look at. Remco |
Re: BIG Problem - HELP
> I've never personally seen this on a Honda, but the wild fluctuations in
RPM > could happen when something is wrong with the cooling system. > Make sure you don't have air bubbles in the system (maybe bleed it). Since > the thermosensor feeds into the computer, it can cause weird things to > happen when it doesn't see the right things. > I wonder if the weird noise you heard could be the coolant pump. Maybe the > injector code got thrown because the mixture is way off base but that is > pure conjecture. > > This is just one possibility -- I am sure others here will have other things > you'll want to look at. Come to think of it, that termosensor (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor or ECT) actually sounds like another possible thing to check. You should be able to read the resistance with the sensor on the car, so it is an easy check. I don't know what it should read, but a repair manual should have that information. |
Re: BIG Problem - HELP
> I've never personally seen this on a Honda, but the wild fluctuations in
RPM > could happen when something is wrong with the cooling system. > Make sure you don't have air bubbles in the system (maybe bleed it). Since > the thermosensor feeds into the computer, it can cause weird things to > happen when it doesn't see the right things. > I wonder if the weird noise you heard could be the coolant pump. Maybe the > injector code got thrown because the mixture is way off base but that is > pure conjecture. > > This is just one possibility -- I am sure others here will have other things > you'll want to look at. Come to think of it, that termosensor (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor or ECT) actually sounds like another possible thing to check. You should be able to read the resistance with the sensor on the car, so it is an easy check. I don't know what it should read, but a repair manual should have that information. |
Re: BIG Problem - HELP
"Jonathan Upright" <qaesar1@carolina.rr.com> wrote in message
news:JttRd.5746$Go4.466609@twister.southeast.rr.co m... > Hello everyone, > > As most of you probably know by now, I have a 1990 Honda Civic LX; 1.5L > DPFI 5-speed. I'm having a HUGE problem with it now and need help from > the experts. ;-) Here's the problem in a nutshell: > > After running at a 2,000RPM idle for about 15 seconds: (high RPM idle > mentioned below) > > Check-Engine light comes on, throws code 16 (fuel injector circuit) > Engine will not rev higher than 3500RPMs, if you try to, when the tach > reaches that level, the engine will "stumble" at that point, just as if > you have let off the gas. So, if you hold the gas pedal steady, the tach > will jump back and forth between 3,000 and 3,500 RPMs. (Based on the > sound of the engine RPMs speeding up and slowing down during this > fluctuation, I'm sure the tach reading is correct) > > Engine falters and backfires severly during acceleration. > > Prior to this problem, for the last couple of days I noticed a > scratchy-sounding noise coming from under the hood. This morning, my > engine stumbled hard, almost to the point of shutting off, the noise > stopped, and the problem started. :-( > > I talked to 2 mechanics and they said to replace the throttle body because > it sounded like the throttle angle sensor was bad. Well, I took their > advice, and did so. (Luckily, I did it myself..wasn't too hard to do > either) ;-) Now, I still have the same problem, along with the idle > fluctuating between 1,800 and 2,000RPMs. I checked the idle adjusting > screw, and it is all the way out, so that's not causing the high idle > speed. I know I could have another bad throttle body, as the one I got is > a used one, but this does seem to be an electrical problem, and not a > mechanical one. > > Does anyone have any ideas? Nobody around here seems to know. :-( > > Thanks in advance! > > Jonathan Not an expert on this system, but the symptoms make me think of a vacuum leak - a big one - into the intake manifold. That would account for the high idle (the throttle can't control the air the engine sucks in) and the fuel injector code (the ECU thinks it knows how much to inject for the throttle opening it has ordered, but the extra air is throwing a wrench in the works.) It doesn't explain the noise or the problem as the throttle is opened farther, though. A less attractive thought (that really doesn't explain the high idle) is that the timing belt jumped a tooth. That also doesn't explain the noise, but the stumble suggests it as a possibility. I don't feel comfortable with either of these explanations, but it's food for thought. Mike |
Re: BIG Problem - HELP
"Jonathan Upright" <qaesar1@carolina.rr.com> wrote in message
news:JttRd.5746$Go4.466609@twister.southeast.rr.co m... > Hello everyone, > > As most of you probably know by now, I have a 1990 Honda Civic LX; 1.5L > DPFI 5-speed. I'm having a HUGE problem with it now and need help from > the experts. ;-) Here's the problem in a nutshell: > > After running at a 2,000RPM idle for about 15 seconds: (high RPM idle > mentioned below) > > Check-Engine light comes on, throws code 16 (fuel injector circuit) > Engine will not rev higher than 3500RPMs, if you try to, when the tach > reaches that level, the engine will "stumble" at that point, just as if > you have let off the gas. So, if you hold the gas pedal steady, the tach > will jump back and forth between 3,000 and 3,500 RPMs. (Based on the > sound of the engine RPMs speeding up and slowing down during this > fluctuation, I'm sure the tach reading is correct) > > Engine falters and backfires severly during acceleration. > > Prior to this problem, for the last couple of days I noticed a > scratchy-sounding noise coming from under the hood. This morning, my > engine stumbled hard, almost to the point of shutting off, the noise > stopped, and the problem started. :-( > > I talked to 2 mechanics and they said to replace the throttle body because > it sounded like the throttle angle sensor was bad. Well, I took their > advice, and did so. (Luckily, I did it myself..wasn't too hard to do > either) ;-) Now, I still have the same problem, along with the idle > fluctuating between 1,800 and 2,000RPMs. I checked the idle adjusting > screw, and it is all the way out, so that's not causing the high idle > speed. I know I could have another bad throttle body, as the one I got is > a used one, but this does seem to be an electrical problem, and not a > mechanical one. > > Does anyone have any ideas? Nobody around here seems to know. :-( > > Thanks in advance! > > Jonathan Not an expert on this system, but the symptoms make me think of a vacuum leak - a big one - into the intake manifold. That would account for the high idle (the throttle can't control the air the engine sucks in) and the fuel injector code (the ECU thinks it knows how much to inject for the throttle opening it has ordered, but the extra air is throwing a wrench in the works.) It doesn't explain the noise or the problem as the throttle is opened farther, though. A less attractive thought (that really doesn't explain the high idle) is that the timing belt jumped a tooth. That also doesn't explain the noise, but the stumble suggests it as a possibility. I don't feel comfortable with either of these explanations, but it's food for thought. Mike |
Re: BIG Problem - HELP
"Jonathan Upright" <qaesar1@carolina.rr.com> wrote in message
news:JttRd.5746$Go4.466609@twister.southeast.rr.co m... > Hello everyone, > > As most of you probably know by now, I have a 1990 Honda Civic LX; 1.5L > DPFI 5-speed. I'm having a HUGE problem with it now and need help from > the experts. ;-) Here's the problem in a nutshell: > > After running at a 2,000RPM idle for about 15 seconds: (high RPM idle > mentioned below) > > Check-Engine light comes on, throws code 16 (fuel injector circuit) > Engine will not rev higher than 3500RPMs, if you try to, when the tach > reaches that level, the engine will "stumble" at that point, just as if > you have let off the gas. So, if you hold the gas pedal steady, the tach > will jump back and forth between 3,000 and 3,500 RPMs. (Based on the > sound of the engine RPMs speeding up and slowing down during this > fluctuation, I'm sure the tach reading is correct) > > Engine falters and backfires severly during acceleration. > > Prior to this problem, for the last couple of days I noticed a > scratchy-sounding noise coming from under the hood. This morning, my > engine stumbled hard, almost to the point of shutting off, the noise > stopped, and the problem started. :-( > > I talked to 2 mechanics and they said to replace the throttle body because > it sounded like the throttle angle sensor was bad. Well, I took their > advice, and did so. (Luckily, I did it myself..wasn't too hard to do > either) ;-) Now, I still have the same problem, along with the idle > fluctuating between 1,800 and 2,000RPMs. I checked the idle adjusting > screw, and it is all the way out, so that's not causing the high idle > speed. I know I could have another bad throttle body, as the one I got is > a used one, but this does seem to be an electrical problem, and not a > mechanical one. > > Does anyone have any ideas? Nobody around here seems to know. :-( > > Thanks in advance! > > Jonathan My son, Rob, has a suggestion. Possibly a defect that has caused the ignition timing to become very far advanced. That will explain the runaway idle and the 3500 RPM behavior (particularly the backfire out the intake), and in turn the code. Best of all it is easy to check - if you see more than about 30 degree BTDC when you try to rev it, you're on the trail. Mike |
Re: BIG Problem - HELP
"Jonathan Upright" <qaesar1@carolina.rr.com> wrote in message
news:JttRd.5746$Go4.466609@twister.southeast.rr.co m... > Hello everyone, > > As most of you probably know by now, I have a 1990 Honda Civic LX; 1.5L > DPFI 5-speed. I'm having a HUGE problem with it now and need help from > the experts. ;-) Here's the problem in a nutshell: > > After running at a 2,000RPM idle for about 15 seconds: (high RPM idle > mentioned below) > > Check-Engine light comes on, throws code 16 (fuel injector circuit) > Engine will not rev higher than 3500RPMs, if you try to, when the tach > reaches that level, the engine will "stumble" at that point, just as if > you have let off the gas. So, if you hold the gas pedal steady, the tach > will jump back and forth between 3,000 and 3,500 RPMs. (Based on the > sound of the engine RPMs speeding up and slowing down during this > fluctuation, I'm sure the tach reading is correct) > > Engine falters and backfires severly during acceleration. > > Prior to this problem, for the last couple of days I noticed a > scratchy-sounding noise coming from under the hood. This morning, my > engine stumbled hard, almost to the point of shutting off, the noise > stopped, and the problem started. :-( > > I talked to 2 mechanics and they said to replace the throttle body because > it sounded like the throttle angle sensor was bad. Well, I took their > advice, and did so. (Luckily, I did it myself..wasn't too hard to do > either) ;-) Now, I still have the same problem, along with the idle > fluctuating between 1,800 and 2,000RPMs. I checked the idle adjusting > screw, and it is all the way out, so that's not causing the high idle > speed. I know I could have another bad throttle body, as the one I got is > a used one, but this does seem to be an electrical problem, and not a > mechanical one. > > Does anyone have any ideas? Nobody around here seems to know. :-( > > Thanks in advance! > > Jonathan My son, Rob, has a suggestion. Possibly a defect that has caused the ignition timing to become very far advanced. That will explain the runaway idle and the 3500 RPM behavior (particularly the backfire out the intake), and in turn the code. Best of all it is easy to check - if you see more than about 30 degree BTDC when you try to rev it, you're on the trail. Mike |
Re: BIG Problem - HELP
There are two ways to correct your problem. First replace every part that someone suggests is the problem, sooner or later you'll hit on the right one and fix your problem. And think about it, you didn't give in and let those ripoff mechanics get the diagnostic fee they wanted (probably some outrageous figure like $40 to $60), but you only spent $1200, but you got new, junkyard or different parts than before you had the problem. Or, you give in, pay that guy his diagnostic fee and find out it was only a $50 thermo sensor or something similar, or worse, it costs more than the car is worth and you don't get the chance to buy a bunch more parts for your car. Tough choice! "Jonathan Upright" <qaesar1@carolina.rr.com> wrote in message news:JttRd.5746$Go4.466609@twister.southeast.rr.co m... > Hello everyone, > > As most of you probably know by now, I have a 1990 Honda Civic LX; 1.5L > DPFI 5-speed. I'm having a HUGE problem with it now and need help from > the experts. ;-) Here's the problem in a nutshell: > > After running at a 2,000RPM idle for about 15 seconds: (high RPM idle > mentioned below) > > Check-Engine light comes on, throws code 16 (fuel injector circuit) > Engine will not rev higher than 3500RPMs, if you try to, when the tach > reaches that level, the engine will "stumble" at that point, just as if > you have let off the gas. So, if you hold the gas pedal steady, the > tach will jump back and forth between 3,000 and 3,500 RPMs. (Based on > the sound of the engine RPMs speeding up and slowing down during this > fluctuation, I'm sure the tach reading is correct) > > Engine falters and backfires severly during acceleration. > > Prior to this problem, for the last couple of days I noticed a > scratchy-sounding noise coming from under the hood. This morning, my > engine stumbled hard, almost to the point of shutting off, the noise > stopped, and the problem started. :-( > > I talked to 2 mechanics and they said to replace the throttle body > because it sounded like the throttle angle sensor was bad. Well, I took > their advice, and did so. (Luckily, I did it myself..wasn't too hard to > do either) ;-) Now, I still have the same problem, along with the idle > fluctuating between 1,800 and 2,000RPMs. I checked the idle adjusting > screw, and it is all the way out, so that's not causing the high idle > speed. I know I could have another bad throttle body, as the one I got > is a used one, but this does seem to be an electrical problem, and not a > mechanical one. > > Does anyone have any ideas? Nobody around here seems to know. :-( > > Thanks in advance! > > Jonathan |
Re: BIG Problem - HELP
There are two ways to correct your problem. First replace every part that someone suggests is the problem, sooner or later you'll hit on the right one and fix your problem. And think about it, you didn't give in and let those ripoff mechanics get the diagnostic fee they wanted (probably some outrageous figure like $40 to $60), but you only spent $1200, but you got new, junkyard or different parts than before you had the problem. Or, you give in, pay that guy his diagnostic fee and find out it was only a $50 thermo sensor or something similar, or worse, it costs more than the car is worth and you don't get the chance to buy a bunch more parts for your car. Tough choice! "Jonathan Upright" <qaesar1@carolina.rr.com> wrote in message news:JttRd.5746$Go4.466609@twister.southeast.rr.co m... > Hello everyone, > > As most of you probably know by now, I have a 1990 Honda Civic LX; 1.5L > DPFI 5-speed. I'm having a HUGE problem with it now and need help from > the experts. ;-) Here's the problem in a nutshell: > > After running at a 2,000RPM idle for about 15 seconds: (high RPM idle > mentioned below) > > Check-Engine light comes on, throws code 16 (fuel injector circuit) > Engine will not rev higher than 3500RPMs, if you try to, when the tach > reaches that level, the engine will "stumble" at that point, just as if > you have let off the gas. So, if you hold the gas pedal steady, the > tach will jump back and forth between 3,000 and 3,500 RPMs. (Based on > the sound of the engine RPMs speeding up and slowing down during this > fluctuation, I'm sure the tach reading is correct) > > Engine falters and backfires severly during acceleration. > > Prior to this problem, for the last couple of days I noticed a > scratchy-sounding noise coming from under the hood. This morning, my > engine stumbled hard, almost to the point of shutting off, the noise > stopped, and the problem started. :-( > > I talked to 2 mechanics and they said to replace the throttle body > because it sounded like the throttle angle sensor was bad. Well, I took > their advice, and did so. (Luckily, I did it myself..wasn't too hard to > do either) ;-) Now, I still have the same problem, along with the idle > fluctuating between 1,800 and 2,000RPMs. I checked the idle adjusting > screw, and it is all the way out, so that's not causing the high idle > speed. I know I could have another bad throttle body, as the one I got > is a used one, but this does seem to be an electrical problem, and not a > mechanical one. > > Does anyone have any ideas? Nobody around here seems to know. :-( > > Thanks in advance! > > Jonathan |
Re: BIG Problem - HELP
Howard wrote:
> There are two ways to correct your problem. > First replace every part that someone suggests is the problem, sooner or > later you'll hit on the right one and fix your problem. And think about it, > you didn't give in and let those ripoff mechanics get the diagnostic fee > they wanted (probably some outrageous figure like $40 to $60), but you only > spent $1200, but you got new, junkyard or different parts than before you > had the problem. > Or, you give in, pay that guy his diagnostic fee and find out it was only a > $50 thermo sensor or something similar, or worse, it costs more than the car > is worth and you don't get the chance to buy a bunch more parts for your > car. > Tough choice! Thus far, I've only spent $65 + tax on the throttle body that I purchased. Unfortunately, junkyards don't allow returns, only exchanges for the same part, if the part I bought is defective. So I am still caught between a rock and a hard place. Jonathan > "Jonathan Upright" <qaesar1@carolina.rr.com> wrote in message > news:JttRd.5746$Go4.466609@twister.southeast.rr.co m... > >>Hello everyone, >> >>As most of you probably know by now, I have a 1990 Honda Civic LX; 1.5L >>DPFI 5-speed. I'm having a HUGE problem with it now and need help from >>the experts. ;-) Here's the problem in a nutshell: >> >>After running at a 2,000RPM idle for about 15 seconds: (high RPM idle >>mentioned below) >> >>Check-Engine light comes on, throws code 16 (fuel injector circuit) >>Engine will not rev higher than 3500RPMs, if you try to, when the tach >>reaches that level, the engine will "stumble" at that point, just as if >>you have let off the gas. So, if you hold the gas pedal steady, the >>tach will jump back and forth between 3,000 and 3,500 RPMs. (Based on >>the sound of the engine RPMs speeding up and slowing down during this >>fluctuation, I'm sure the tach reading is correct) >> >>Engine falters and backfires severly during acceleration. >> >>Prior to this problem, for the last couple of days I noticed a >>scratchy-sounding noise coming from under the hood. This morning, my >>engine stumbled hard, almost to the point of shutting off, the noise >>stopped, and the problem started. :-( >> >>I talked to 2 mechanics and they said to replace the throttle body >>because it sounded like the throttle angle sensor was bad. Well, I took >>their advice, and did so. (Luckily, I did it myself..wasn't too hard to >>do either) ;-) Now, I still have the same problem, along with the idle >>fluctuating between 1,800 and 2,000RPMs. I checked the idle adjusting >>screw, and it is all the way out, so that's not causing the high idle >>speed. I know I could have another bad throttle body, as the one I got >>is a used one, but this does seem to be an electrical problem, and not a >>mechanical one. >> >>Does anyone have any ideas? Nobody around here seems to know. :-( >> >>Thanks in advance! >> >>Jonathan > > > |
Re: BIG Problem - HELP
Howard wrote:
> There are two ways to correct your problem. > First replace every part that someone suggests is the problem, sooner or > later you'll hit on the right one and fix your problem. And think about it, > you didn't give in and let those ripoff mechanics get the diagnostic fee > they wanted (probably some outrageous figure like $40 to $60), but you only > spent $1200, but you got new, junkyard or different parts than before you > had the problem. > Or, you give in, pay that guy his diagnostic fee and find out it was only a > $50 thermo sensor or something similar, or worse, it costs more than the car > is worth and you don't get the chance to buy a bunch more parts for your > car. > Tough choice! Thus far, I've only spent $65 + tax on the throttle body that I purchased. Unfortunately, junkyards don't allow returns, only exchanges for the same part, if the part I bought is defective. So I am still caught between a rock and a hard place. Jonathan > "Jonathan Upright" <qaesar1@carolina.rr.com> wrote in message > news:JttRd.5746$Go4.466609@twister.southeast.rr.co m... > >>Hello everyone, >> >>As most of you probably know by now, I have a 1990 Honda Civic LX; 1.5L >>DPFI 5-speed. I'm having a HUGE problem with it now and need help from >>the experts. ;-) Here's the problem in a nutshell: >> >>After running at a 2,000RPM idle for about 15 seconds: (high RPM idle >>mentioned below) >> >>Check-Engine light comes on, throws code 16 (fuel injector circuit) >>Engine will not rev higher than 3500RPMs, if you try to, when the tach >>reaches that level, the engine will "stumble" at that point, just as if >>you have let off the gas. So, if you hold the gas pedal steady, the >>tach will jump back and forth between 3,000 and 3,500 RPMs. (Based on >>the sound of the engine RPMs speeding up and slowing down during this >>fluctuation, I'm sure the tach reading is correct) >> >>Engine falters and backfires severly during acceleration. >> >>Prior to this problem, for the last couple of days I noticed a >>scratchy-sounding noise coming from under the hood. This morning, my >>engine stumbled hard, almost to the point of shutting off, the noise >>stopped, and the problem started. :-( >> >>I talked to 2 mechanics and they said to replace the throttle body >>because it sounded like the throttle angle sensor was bad. Well, I took >>their advice, and did so. (Luckily, I did it myself..wasn't too hard to >>do either) ;-) Now, I still have the same problem, along with the idle >>fluctuating between 1,800 and 2,000RPMs. I checked the idle adjusting >>screw, and it is all the way out, so that's not causing the high idle >>speed. I know I could have another bad throttle body, as the one I got >>is a used one, but this does seem to be an electrical problem, and not a >>mechanical one. >> >>Does anyone have any ideas? Nobody around here seems to know. :-( >> >>Thanks in advance! >> >>Jonathan > > > |
Re: BIG Problem - HELP
"Howard" <howardh@nospam-cybrstar.com> wrote in message
news:jUxRd.14120$Rl5.13506@bignews4.bellsouth.net. .. > > There are two ways to correct your problem. > First replace every part that someone suggests is the problem, sooner or > later you'll hit on the right one and fix your problem. And think about > it, > you didn't give in and let those ripoff mechanics get the diagnostic fee > they wanted (probably some outrageous figure like $40 to $60), but you > only > spent $1200, but you got new, junkyard or different parts than before you > had the problem. > Or, you give in, pay that guy his diagnostic fee and find out it was only > a > $50 thermo sensor or something similar, or worse, it costs more than the > car > is worth and you don't get the chance to buy a bunch more parts for your > car. > Tough choice! The best approach to problems like this is indeed two-pronged, but neither path you suggest has much of a future. On one hand follow the positive clues as far as they take us (high idle, backfiring out intake and exhaust when trying to rev, injector circuit code thrown, sudden onset while running, and the mystery noise before it all started). The other approach is to rule out common or possible problems - valve or ignition timing, vacuum leaks.... This is going to be a hassle but despair would be premature. Let's follow this until we fix it or have to take a different tack. Mike |
Re: BIG Problem - HELP
"Howard" <howardh@nospam-cybrstar.com> wrote in message
news:jUxRd.14120$Rl5.13506@bignews4.bellsouth.net. .. > > There are two ways to correct your problem. > First replace every part that someone suggests is the problem, sooner or > later you'll hit on the right one and fix your problem. And think about > it, > you didn't give in and let those ripoff mechanics get the diagnostic fee > they wanted (probably some outrageous figure like $40 to $60), but you > only > spent $1200, but you got new, junkyard or different parts than before you > had the problem. > Or, you give in, pay that guy his diagnostic fee and find out it was only > a > $50 thermo sensor or something similar, or worse, it costs more than the > car > is worth and you don't get the chance to buy a bunch more parts for your > car. > Tough choice! The best approach to problems like this is indeed two-pronged, but neither path you suggest has much of a future. On one hand follow the positive clues as far as they take us (high idle, backfiring out intake and exhaust when trying to rev, injector circuit code thrown, sudden onset while running, and the mystery noise before it all started). The other approach is to rule out common or possible problems - valve or ignition timing, vacuum leaks.... This is going to be a hassle but despair would be premature. Let's follow this until we fix it or have to take a different tack. Mike |
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