Re: Changing head gasket 89 Accord
Forrest wrote:
> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message > news:wOGdnXaHv7S_FCPVnZ2dnUVZ_tvinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t... >> Forrest wrote: >>> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message >>> news:EcmdnYk9c7TOpyDVnZ2dnUVZ_tLinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t... >>>> Forrest wrote: >>>>> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message >>>>> news:H_KdnZxgEdi5JCHVnZ2dnUVZ_jidnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t... >>>>>> Forrest wrote: >>>>>>> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message >>>>>>> news:itydncBYzOSLniHVnZ2dnUVZ_gmdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t... >>>>>>>> Forrest wrote: >>>>>>>>> "Dan C" <youmustbejoking@lan.invalid> wrote in message >>>>>>>>> news:pan.2008.08.31.23.22.18.270781@moria2.lan... >>>>>>>>>> On Sun, 31 Aug 2008 16:01:10 -0700, Forrest wrote: >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> I have an 89 Accord SEI that appears to have a blown head gasket. >>>>>>>>>>> One of the >>>>>>>>>>> symptoms is a constant stream of bubbles in the radiator overflow >>>>>>>>>>> tank. I >>>>>>>>>>> also noticed that the cooling system(cold) had pressure after >>>>>>>>>>> cranking it >>>>>>>>>>> with the coil wire disconnected. After filling and bleeding >>>>>>>>>>> cooling system >>>>>>>>>>> and letting idle, the gage will eventually go to hot, even though >>>>>>>>>>> the fan is >>>>>>>>>>> kicking in. I would then reloosen the bleed bolt in the >>>>>>>>>>> thermostat housing >>>>>>>>>>> and steam would come out. Do it all over again with the same >>>>>>>>>>> result. Idle is >>>>>>>>>>> smooth sometimes and rough others. New dist. cap, rotor, plugs, >>>>>>>>>>> wires, >>>>>>>>>>> timing belt, injectors, thermostat, radiator and cap. I also just >>>>>>>>>>> replaced >>>>>>>>>>> the struts and CV axles. Anywhooo .... I'm going to tear it down >>>>>>>>>>> myself and >>>>>>>>>>> replace it. I was just wondering if anybody had any tips, tricks >>>>>>>>>>> or advice >>>>>>>>>>> for me to help make the job easier. Also, if the head looks OK, >>>>>>>>>>> level across >>>>>>>>>>> the surface etc, should I go through the expense and hassle of >>>>>>>>>>> having a shop >>>>>>>>>>> go over it? What is a good brand of gasket kit? The car is a >>>>>>>>>>> beater with a >>>>>>>>>>> lot of new parts. It has 220,000 miles on it. I know that the >>>>>>>>>>> rings aren't >>>>>>>>>>> that great and really don't want to get into that job. I did a >>>>>>>>>>> compression >>>>>>>>>>> test last year and the "wet test" raised the compression quite a >>>>>>>>>>> bit. I plan >>>>>>>>>>> on keeping it about another couple of years and maybe putting >>>>>>>>>>> about another >>>>>>>>>>> 30,000 miles on it. Thanks in advance for any replies. >>>>>>>>>> Save yourself some aggravation, and get rid of that piece of >>>>>>>>>> now. >>>>>>>>>> Why around with a 20 year old car, just to get another 30k >>>>>>>>>> out of it. >>>>>>>>>> Go buy something else. Sheesh. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Yeah, you're probably right. It's just that I have done so much to >>>>>>>>> it that I hate to call it quits now. My son has two more years of >>>>>>>>> school left. He has an 85 mile round trip drive 4 or 5 days a week. >>>>>>>>> We eventually want to get him a decent car but hate to "Use it up" >>>>>>>>> right away. I think I can keep this tin can going with some bailing >>>>>>>>> wire, duct tape and a few more parts here and there. If I had to >>>>>>>>> pay for labor, it would definitely be out of the question. >>>>>>>> that's dan's response to everything here - ignore him. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> re fixing the gasket, the parts are cheap, but it takes a while. >>>>>>>> use gasket remover rather than abrasives to clean the head and >>>>>>>> block. if it's flat, do not machine it. google this group for my >>>>>>>> highly biased opinions on this subject. >>>>>>> Thanks for the reply, Jim. I Googled your posts and found them very >>>>>>> informative. I tore the front end of the engine apart last night. I'm >>>>>>> now trying to figure out how to get the intake side off. >>>>>> forgot to say: >>>>>> >>>>>> there's a bolt you need to do from underneath.... piece of cake if >>>>>> you go under the car and look straight up. >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>>> Lots of fun. I snapped a bunch of pictures with the digital camera, >>>>>>> just in case my memory fails me. I have a photographic memory ... it >>>>>>> just runs out of film now and then. >>>>>>> Question about coolant in oil : Will it always turn milky or can the >>>>>>> coolant or water dilute it without showing a change, other than being >>>>>>> thinner? This car has always been an oil leaker and my son adds some >>>>>>> every day. He told me last night that he thinks that the level has >>>>>>> actually risen on its own a few times. Now he tells me .. oh well. >>>>>>> I wonder if he may have added too much or at least more than he >>>>>>> thought he was, by checking the dipstick before the oil had a chance >>>>>>> to get down to the pan. I'm wondering if the lower part of the engine >>>>>>> has suffered damage from diluted oil. No milkiness. I'll post about >>>>>>> the head condition when I get it off. Guess I'll put in a few more >>>>>>> hours this evening. >>>>> >>>>> Well, got most of the "brush" cleared off of the engine and am down to >>>>> the head with the intake manifold still attached. I removed the two >>>>> bolts under the manifold mount. I also removed all of the crap >>>>> associated with a timing belt change. I debated about removing the >>>>> rocker arm assembly or not. I removed all of the bolts and tapped on it >>>>> ..... not moving .... am I gonna screw something up with this, probably >>>>> needless move? >>>> pointless - leave the cam and rockers where they are. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>> I put the bolts back in and torqued them. Almost 10 PM ... better >>>>> shut things down or risk attack by estrogen monster. I don't see any >>>>> way to remove the intake manifold without removing the head. Is that >>>>> possible? >>>> should remove the manifold /before/ the head. technically, i guess you >>>> could leave it on, but it makes for bigger hunks of metal to be lifting >>>> out of the bay in one piece... >>>> >>>> >>>>> The lower manifold nuts are tucked way under there and underneath >>>>> tubular parts of the manifold. No way they can be easily removed, and >>>>> forget torqueing. >>>> not true. lie on your back under the car and use a long extension on >>>> your ratchet. easy access, easy removal. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>> Soooo ... are you supposed to remove the head with intake manifold >>>>> attached? Are you supposed to remove the head with the rocker arm >>>>> assembly intact? >>>>> >>>>> Tomorrow's job is to open Pandora's box. >>>> use a spirit level [in good condition!] and some feeler gauges to check >>>> the head for flatness. yet again, do NOT use abrasives for cleanup, no >>>> matter how tempting. that includes scotchbrite [that green pad used in >>>> the kitchen] - it's one of the worst engine-killers out there. >>>> >>>> if you don't have the honda manual, [not haynes which is CRAP], you may >>>> be able to download parts online. check tegger.com for info too. you'll >>>> need it to get the timing belt adjustment correct on reassembly - >>>> there's a trick to it to make sure tension is correct. >>>> >>>> also, check the condition of the head bolts. they're re-usable, but >>>> some positions are "wet" and can get rusty threads. if that is the >>>> case, visit a junk yard and get yourself some new ones from the "oily" >>>> positions, and chase the block threads with a tap. this will allow you >>>> to torque the head properly on replacement. use a bending beam torque >>>> wrench, not clicker. >>> Okily, Dokily, Neighbors, >>> I finally got to open up the box of chocolates. I never could figure out >>> how to get the intake manifold off, so just pulled them off together. I >>> might possibly have gotten the manifold off but would have had a hell of >>> a time bolting it back on after the head reinstallation. The only part >>> that would come off was the top of the rear part and did no good for >>> removing the rest of it. No biggie, it's apart and the head gasket looked >>> as though it had coolant leaks into a couple of cylinders (the end ones). >>> The inner two both have some carbon on the tops of the pistons, not much, >>> but some. The end pistons are clean on top. The gasket tore upon removal >>> and is hard to tell exactly what was leaking where. It looks to me as >>> though the end cylinders were both getting coolant into them. I've had >>> white, snow like , coating on the plugs and O2 sensors for some time and >>> attributed it to a possible vacuum leak or lean condition. Is that more >>> probably just coolant residue? >> yes. >> >> >> >>> I got started removing some of the old gasket material with a one inch >>> putty knife, being careful not to scratch. >> use a solvent gasket remover to get rid of the last residues. aluminum >> heads need a very fine surface finish and scratching is /bad/. >> >> >>> I noticed that a lot of the coolant passageways were very restricted by >>> the size of the hole in the gasket. Does that mean that it's not the >>> original Honda gasket? >> no, it means the flow is carefully controlled to achieve even temperature >> distribution given that the coolant flows "sideways". >> >> >> ? And, while on that topic, I think Jim and others mentioned >>> that one should forget Felpro and any other aftermarket and just use the >>> Honda one ... for that reason. >> stick with honda. >> >> >>> How and where do you get a reliable straight edge? I have a couple of >>> aluminum straight edges but wouldn't trust them when it comes to >>> thousandths of an inch for looking for warp. >> use a new spirit level - it's close enough. you're looking for warp, not >> machining tolerance. >> >> >> >>> The only other engine that I have rebuilt was the 289, in my 66 Mustang. >>> I don't think it had more than 80K, when I got it, but it did have to be >>> ridge reamed. This puppy is smooth all the way up and down ... or at >>> least from what I've seen so far. Haven't turned it over at all, after >>> pulling the head. >> don't even consider it. and to ensure you don't need to in the future, >> that's why you're being so careful to avoid abrasives. >> >> >>> I'll clean up both surfaces tomorrow and check for warped. Where to buy a >>> good straight edge for the job? >> building supply store - see above. >> >> >>> >>> UP.SO. Jim, the bolts all came out oily, or at least not rusty. >> good! it's still prudent to chase the bolt holes though - if dirty, the >> head bolts can stick on tightening and that makes correct torque a total >> crap shoot. >> >> >>> My back still hurts. >> should do the job more often then! > > I got a couple of more hours in tonight. I worked on cleaning up the head's > gasket surface. Jim, you mentioned using : > > "solvent gasket remover" to get rid of the last residues. aluminum > heads need a very fine surface finish and scratching is /bad/." .... > > Do they sell a product that you like for it, or are you just referring to > using solvents? I gave acetone a try and didn't get much out of it. I found > a half can of lacquer thinner and used that on a rag over a wooden paint > stirring stick. Worked pretty well but have a lot of crap to get off of the > block still. > > As far as I can tell, I don't think that the head is warped. The only > anomalies that I can see are, what appeared to be a couple of spots that > look a bit corroded next to the outer coolant ports. They might be just a > tad depressed there. Not much and not toward the cylinders. but outward. > I figure it's a go as is, after clean-up. > > What about the white crap on the bottom of some valves? I was thinking of > rotating the camshaft for each cylinder to have a closed valve position, to > keep crud from getting under valve seats, and then using a drill brush to > clean them up a bit. Is that Kosher? > > for solvent, use that gel paint stripper stuff you get from the hardware store. paint it on, leave, then wipe. repeat until cleaned. it takes a while. you'll find it does a great job of cleaning carbon from the combustion chambers too. the white deposit stuff, i don't think that's much of a problem. if you want to use a wire brush, that'll be fine - just don't brush the sealing surface of the head. |
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