CR-V Fuel pump labor
My 2000 Honda CR-V died on the interstate yesterday. When I tried to
restart it, it would crank fine but not catch. I figure this means it's the fuel or ignition. The mechanic's guess is that the fuel pump failed. His guess was based on not smelling any gas when he cranked the engine. Is that a valid test? He said that if it turns out to be the fuel pump, he'd have to remove the fuel tank to get to the pump. However, looking at my repair manual, there's an access panel under the rear left seat that leads to the fuel pump. No need to remove the fuel tank. The mechanic said it would cost about $500 (parts+labor) to replace the fuel pump with an aftermarket one. I see that aftermarket replacement pumps cost anywhere from $35 to $220 online. Does the $500 estimate sound reasonable? How many hours work is it to replace the fuel pump? Thanks |
Re: CR-V Fuel pump labor
ciggy wrote:
> My 2000 Honda CR-V died on the interstate yesterday. When I tried to > restart it, it would crank fine but not catch. I figure this means > it's the fuel or ignition. The mechanic's guess is that the fuel pump > failed. His guess was based on not smelling any gas when he cranked > the engine. Is that a valid test? > > He said that if it turns out to be the fuel pump, he'd have to remove > the fuel tank to get to the pump. However, looking at my repair > manual, there's an access panel under the rear left seat that leads to > the fuel pump. No need to remove the fuel tank. The mechanic said it > would cost about $500 (parts+labor) to replace the fuel pump with an > aftermarket one. I see that aftermarket replacement pumps cost > anywhere from $35 to $220 online. > > Does the $500 estimate sound reasonable? How many hours work is it to > replace the fuel pump? > > Thanks When the car died, did any warning lights come on? If not, the cause may likely be the ignition switch. Chances are your car was part of that massive ignition switch recall from a few years back. Another possibility: I'm not completely sure, but I think the engine in this version of CR-V uses a timing belt. If the timing belt has never been replaced (and it would have been overdue by now), it may have broken and possibly damaged the valves, resulting in big bucks to fix. But have the issue properly troubleshot and diagnosed first before attempting to replace parts at random. |
Re: CR-V Fuel pump labor
On Jan 14, 11:11 am, ciggy <ci...@mytrashmail.com> wrote:
> My 2000 Honda CR-V died on the interstate yesterday. When I tried to > restart it, it would crank fine but not catch. I figure this means > it's the fuel or ignition. The mechanic's guess is that the fuel pump > failed. His guess was based on not smelling any gas when he cranked > the engine. Is that a valid test? > > He said that if it turns out to be the fuel pump, he'd have to remove > the fuel tank to get to the pump. However, looking at my repair > manual, there's an access panel under the rear left seat that leads to > the fuel pump. No need to remove the fuel tank. The mechanic said it > would cost about $500 (parts+labor) to replace the fuel pump with an > aftermarket one. I see that aftermarket replacement pumps cost > anywhere from $35 to $220 online. > > Does the $500 estimate sound reasonable? How many hours work is it to > replace the fuel pump? > > Thanks In answer to your questions. 1. That is a valid way to test for the presence of gas. If you are cranking the engine to start it, and the engine doesn't start, then it should flood if there is gas coming up front. You usually can smell a flooded engine. There are more reliable tests. Take off that access port and have someone crank the engine while you listen to the top of the fuel pump with a stethoscope. You should hear a whirring if the pump is working. Usually it is audible without the stethoscope. 2. Ive replaced the fuel pump in a few cars. They used to have cars where the pump wasn't even in the tank. Imagine that? BUT, for cars like yours with an access pump it shouldn't take long to replace. I recently replaced the fuel pump in a Honda. It took about 40 minutes. If you are savvy at all, you can do it yourself. It is not a mystery or a dead language, it can be done. 3. The price of the fuel pump will depend upon the brand and the supplier. Usually OEM parts tend to be more expensive, but using the proper replacement part will come with certain guarantees. You know that the OEM part was made specifically to fit in this car. No part of it will have to be bent, clipped off or otherwise reshaped to fit into place. Peace! Jack |
Re: CR-V Fuel pump labor
jack42038 <jacklarwa@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:05c28a44-bd3a-449b-8a43-f4ef2d7f98f0@v42g2000yqv.googlegroups.com: > On Jan 14, 11:11 am, ciggy <ci...@mytrashmail.com> wrote: >> My 2000 Honda CR-V died on the interstate yesterday. When I tried to >> restart it, it would crank fine but not catch. I figure this means >> it's the fuel or ignition. The mechanic's guess is that the fuel >> pump failed. His guess was based on not smelling any gas when he >> cranked the engine. Is that a valid test? >> >> He said that if it turns out to be the fuel pump, he'd have to remove >> the fuel tank to get to the pump. However, looking at my repair >> manual, there's an access panel under the rear left seat that leads >> to the fuel pump. No need to remove the fuel tank. The mechanic said >> it would cost about $500 (parts+labor) to replace the fuel pump with >> an aftermarket one. I see that aftermarket replacement pumps cost >> anywhere from $35 to $220 online. >> >> Does the $500 estimate sound reasonable? How many hours work is it to >> replace the fuel pump? >> >> Thanks > > In answer to your questions. > > 1. That is a valid way to test for the presence of gas. If you are > cranking the engine to start it, and the engine doesn't start, then it > should flood if there is gas coming up front. That depends. If there is no ignition event, the ECU/ECM/PCM will refuse to fire the injectors, so no gas and no start and no flood. > You usually can smell a > flooded engine. Plus you can fix it. Simply hold the pedal right to the floor and crank. Provided you've not got thick floor mats bulking things up and holding the pedal off the floor, the ECU/ECM/PCM will interpret the resulting WOT combined with starter operation as a signal to shut off the injectors so as to clear a flooded condition. > There are more reliable tests. Take off that access > port and have someone crank the engine while you listen to the top of > the fuel pump with a stethoscope. You should hear a whirring if the > pump is working. Usually it is audible without the stethoscope. It's a lot easier to simply pull the gas filler cap and listen with your ears. The pump will run for two seconds when the key is first turned to "II". You will hear a whine/buzz. If you wear a hearing aid, as I do, it's even easier. Just switch the aid to the "T" setting and listen as you turn the key to "II". <snip> > > 3. The price of the fuel pump will depend upon the brand and the > supplier. Usually OEM parts tend to be more expensive, but using the > proper replacement part will come with certain guarantees. You know > that the OEM part was made specifically to fit in this car. No part > of it will have to be bent, clipped off or otherwise reshaped to fit > into place. > OEM is far better /build quality/, never mind physical fit. Materials are higher quality, bearings are bigger, seals are better, fit is better, all sorts of things. If I had the time and inclination, I'd regale you for hours with horror stories of all the aftermarket junk I've seen and heard of over the years. Do yourself a favor and buy OEM. For the average driver who just needs his car to get from work to home without fail, OEM is well worth the extra cost. -- Tegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: CR-V Fuel pump labor
Thus spake Tegger <invalid@invalid.inv> :
>jack42038 <jacklarwa@yahoo.com> wrote in >news:05c28a44-bd3a-449b-8a43-f4ef2d7f98f0@v42g2000yqv.googlegroups.com: > >> On Jan 14, 11:11 am, ciggy <ci...@mytrashmail.com> wrote: >>> My 2000 Honda CR-V died on the interstate yesterday. When I tried to >>> restart it, it would crank fine but not catch. I figure this means >>> it's the fuel or ignition. The mechanic's guess is that the fuel >>> pump failed. His guess was based on not smelling any gas when he >>> cranked the engine. Is that a valid test? >>> >>> He said that if it turns out to be the fuel pump, he'd have to remove >>> the fuel tank to get to the pump. However, looking at my repair >>> manual, there's an access panel under the rear left seat that leads >>> to the fuel pump. No need to remove the fuel tank. The mechanic said >>> it would cost about $500 (parts+labor) to replace the fuel pump with >>> an aftermarket one. I see that aftermarket replacement pumps cost >>> anywhere from $35 to $220 online. >>> >>> Does the $500 estimate sound reasonable? How many hours work is it to >>> replace the fuel pump? >>> >>> Thanks >> >> In answer to your questions. >> >> 1. That is a valid way to test for the presence of gas. If you are >> cranking the engine to start it, and the engine doesn't start, then it >> should flood if there is gas coming up front. > > > > >That depends. > >If there is no ignition event, the ECU/ECM/PCM will refuse to fire the >injectors, so no gas and no start and no flood. Question. Does the inertial kill switch kill the whole thing, or just the pump? Or do Hondas even have one? (I know my CRX did). > > > > > >> You usually can smell a >> flooded engine. > > >Plus you can fix it. > >Simply hold the pedal right to the floor and crank. Provided you've not >got thick floor mats bulking things up and holding the pedal off the >floor, the ECU/ECM/PCM will interpret the resulting WOT combined with >starter operation as a signal to shut off the injectors so as to clear a >flooded condition. > > > > >> There are more reliable tests. Take off that access >> port and have someone crank the engine while you listen to the top of >> the fuel pump with a stethoscope. You should hear a whirring if the >> pump is working. Usually it is audible without the stethoscope. > > > >It's a lot easier to simply pull the gas filler cap and listen with your >ears. The pump will run for two seconds when the key is first turned to >"II". You will hear a whine/buzz. On both my CRX and 96 Civic (and my wife's 96 Accord) you could hear the pump spin up. Of course, these were manuals, so I waited a second or so before pushing the clutch in. > >If you wear a hearing aid, as I do, it's even easier. Just switch the >aid to the "T" setting and listen as you turn the key to "II". > I'll bet you're fun to be around when the battery starts to go. At least my m-i-l is. :-) ><snip> > > > >> >> 3. The price of the fuel pump will depend upon the brand and the >> supplier. Usually OEM parts tend to be more expensive, but using the >> proper replacement part will come with certain guarantees. You know >> that the OEM part was made specifically to fit in this car. No part >> of it will have to be bent, clipped off or otherwise reshaped to fit >> into place. >> > > >OEM is far better /build quality/, never mind physical fit. Materials >are higher quality, bearings are bigger, seals are better, fit is >better, all sorts of things. > >If I had the time and inclination, I'd regale you for hours with horror >stories of all the aftermarket junk I've seen and heard of over the >years. > >Do yourself a favor and buy OEM. For the average driver who just needs >his car to get from work to home without fail, OEM is well worth the >extra cost. -- - dillon I am not invalid When you wish upon a falling star, your dreams come true. Unless it's really a meteorite hurtling to the Earth which will destroy all life. Then you're pretty much hosed no matter what you wish for. Unless it's death by meteor. |
Re: CR-V Fuel pump labor
I didnt get into the whole OEM vs Aftermarket debate but it should be
understood, and I stand by my point, the OEM part was made specifically for the vehicle. It was what they had in mind when they were testing the car and it is was they intended to be on the vehicle on the road. There may be parts out there that are considered upgrades or mods or what have you, and they may well be of better quality (if so they are probably more expensive), BUT you had better be aware of any other changes they may bring to the table. I am always suspect of any part that claims to be universal. Car shapes, sizes, engines, electrical systems and designs are surely not universal, how could the parts be? Perhaps light bulbs are universal in some cars, but then even that is sometimes not true. So far, it has been my experience when dealing with engines, especially temperamental ones, that you should use the parts intended for the vehicle. I've tried to get by on parts that were "close" only to replace them and reinvest time and more money into a situation that would have been cheaper just to put the OEM part in to begin with. I don't have any scary stories along those lines, just stories that involve money being dumped down the drain. Ask Tegger for the scary stories. Just because something comes from NAPA doesn't necessarily mean it is the Original Equipment for your vehicle. Ask them. Places like AutoZone and Advance will usually give you the option of OEM and Aftermarket. Listening at the fuel door is just as well. I thought you were already down as far as the access hatch to your fuel pump was the reason I suggested what I did. If they are now suggesting that something is wrong in your ignition system and are requesting that you replace it all, you may want to check it further yourself, OR take it and get a second opinion. If the consensus is to replace the ignition system then let it be so. Good luck. Peace! Jack |
Re: CR-V Fuel pump labor
"jack42038" <jacklarwa@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:e081fd17-a9bc-4711-a89d-3d75ff657382@r34g2000vbp.googlegroups.com... >I didnt get into the whole OEM vs Aftermarket debate but it should be > understood, and I stand by my point, the OEM part was made > specifically for the vehicle. It was what they had in mind when they > were testing the car and it is was they intended to be on the vehicle > on the road. There may be parts out there that are considered > upgrades or mods or what have you, and they may well be of better > quality (if so they are probably more expensive), BUT you had better > be aware of any other changes they may bring to the table. I am > always suspect of any part that claims to be universal. Car shapes, > sizes, engines, electrical systems and designs are surely not > universal, how could the parts be? Perhaps light bulbs are universal > in some cars, but then even that is sometimes not true. > > So far, it has been my experience when dealing with engines, > especially temperamental ones, that you should use the parts intended > for the vehicle. I've tried to get by on parts that were "close" only > to replace them and reinvest time and more money into a situation that > would have been cheaper just to put the OEM part in to begin with. I > don't have any scary stories along those lines, just stories that > involve money being dumped down the drain. Ask Tegger for the scary > stories. > > Just because something comes from NAPA doesn't necessarily mean it is > the Original Equipment for your vehicle. Ask them. Places like > AutoZone and Advance will usually give you the option of OEM and > Aftermarket. > That's been my experience, too. I am stubborn so I had to do a lot more rework than I might have but the message got through. Aftermarket is okay for consumables - batteries, tires, wiper blades - but should be carefully considered otherwise. Spark plugs and belts often come in quality aftermarket varieties, and I'm sure there are quality aftermarket brake components out there. As you say, expect to pay more than OEM. But buying aftermarket water pumps, starters and alternators gets old real quickly. "Lifetime warranty" doesn't put a smile on my face when I am changing some inaccessible component for the fourth time. Most recent scary story: my son put NAPA ignition parts in his Acura. A few months later the rotor broke - the plastic broke away from the metal collar that held it. He had to have it towed (it was on the freeway at night) and then we had to address the problem of the dust shield the broken rotor tore up. The OEM version was much more solid. Mike |
Re: CR-V Fuel pump labor
jack42038 <jacklarwa@yahoo.com> wrote in news:e081fd17-a9bc-4711-a89d-
3d75ff657382@r34g2000vbp.googlegroups.com: > > Just because something comes from NAPA doesn't necessarily mean it is > the Original Equipment for your vehicle. Ask them. Places like > AutoZone and Advance will usually give you the option of OEM and > Aftermarket. NAPA/AZ/Advance/whoever _cannot_ give you OEM. They can only give you "OEM- spec", or "OEM quality". Both are most definitely aftermarket and of aftermarket quality. OEM _only_ comes from a Honda dealer. -- Tegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: CR-V Fuel pump labor
Dillon Pyron <invaliddmpyron@austin.rr.com> wrote in
news:fso2n4t0b9o0v2me489qc8am7rnudhsanv@4ax.com: > Thus spake Tegger <invalid@invalid.inv> : > >>jack42038 <jacklarwa@yahoo.com> wrote in >>news:05c28a44-bd3a-449b-8a43-f4ef2d7f98f0 @v42g2000yqv.googlegroups.com: >> >>> On Jan 14, 11:11 am, ciggy <ci...@mytrashmail.com> wrote: >>>> My 2000 Honda CR-V died on the interstate yesterday. When I tried >>>> to restart it, it would crank fine but not catch. I figure this >>>> means it's the fuel or ignition. The mechanic's guess is that the >>>> fuel pump failed. His guess was based on not smelling any gas when >>>> he cranked the engine. Is that a valid test? >>>> >>>> He said that if it turns out to be the fuel pump, he'd have to >>>> remove the fuel tank to get to the pump. However, looking at my >>>> repair manual, there's an access panel under the rear left seat >>>> that leads to the fuel pump. No need to remove the fuel tank. The >>>> mechanic said it would cost about $500 (parts+labor) to replace the >>>> fuel pump with an aftermarket one. I see that aftermarket >>>> replacement pumps cost anywhere from $35 to $220 online. >>>> >>>> Does the $500 estimate sound reasonable? How many hours work is it >>>> to replace the fuel pump? >>>> >>>> Thanks >>> >>> In answer to your questions. >>> >>> 1. That is a valid way to test for the presence of gas. If you are >>> cranking the engine to start it, and the engine doesn't start, then >>> it should flood if there is gas coming up front. >> >> >> >> >>That depends. >> >>If there is no ignition event, the ECU/ECM/PCM will refuse to fire the >>injectors, so no gas and no start and no flood. > > Question. Does the inertial kill switch kill the whole thing, or just > the pump? Or do Hondas even have one? (I know my CRX did). I don't know. <snip> > >> >>If you wear a hearing aid, as I do, it's even easier. Just switch the >>aid to the "T" setting and listen as you turn the key to "II". >> > > I'll bet you're fun to be around when the battery starts to go. At > least my m-i-l is. :-) What's a pain these days is how the batteries now last a couple of weeks, so you forget when you put the last one in, and I keep forgetting to carry a spare with me. Modern digital aids stay at full volume for a while even with a failing battery, but they give you a series of tones (that only you hear) when the voltage begins falling. This gives you an hour or so to round a up a replacement before it fails outright. The old analog aids would simply go dead on you with little warning. -- Tegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: CR-V Fuel pump labor
On Fri, 16 Jan 2009 22:53:13 -0600, Dillon Pyron wrote:
> Thus spake Tegger <invalid@invalid.inv> : > >>jack42038 <jacklarwa@yahoo.com> wrote in >>news:05c28a44-bd3a-449b-8a43-f4ef2d7f98f0@v42g2000yqv.googlegroups.com: >> >>> On Jan 14, 11:11 am, ciggy <ci...@mytrashmail.com> wrote: >>>> My 2000 Honda CR-V died on the interstate yesterday. When I tried to >>>> restart it, it would crank fine but not catch. I figure this means >>>> it's the fuel or ignition. The mechanic's guess is that the fuel >>>> pump failed. His guess was based on not smelling any gas when he >>>> cranked the engine. Is that a valid test? >>>> >>>> He said that if it turns out to be the fuel pump, he'd have to remove >>>> the fuel tank to get to the pump. However, looking at my repair >>>> manual, there's an access panel under the rear left seat that leads >>>> to the fuel pump. No need to remove the fuel tank. The mechanic said >>>> it would cost about $500 (parts+labor) to replace the fuel pump with >>>> an aftermarket one. I see that aftermarket replacement pumps cost >>>> anywhere from $35 to $220 online. >>>> >>>> Does the $500 estimate sound reasonable? How many hours work is it to >>>> replace the fuel pump? >>>> >>>> Thanks >>> >>> In answer to your questions. >>> >>> 1. That is a valid way to test for the presence of gas. If you are >>> cranking the engine to start it, and the engine doesn't start, then it >>> should flood if there is gas coming up front. >> >> >> >> >>That depends. >> >>If there is no ignition event, the ECU/ECM/PCM will refuse to fire the >>injectors, so no gas and no start and no flood. > > Question. Does the inertial kill switch kill the whole thing, or just > the pump? Or do Hondas even have one? (I know my CRX did). not necessary - the ecu switches the pump off after two seconds of ignition on but no engine run. if the crash is severe enough to kill the electrics, the problem is still solved. > > >> >> >> >> >>> You usually can smell a >>> flooded engine. >> >> >>Plus you can fix it. >> >>Simply hold the pedal right to the floor and crank. Provided you've not >>got thick floor mats bulking things up and holding the pedal off the >>floor, the ECU/ECM/PCM will interpret the resulting WOT combined with >>starter operation as a signal to shut off the injectors so as to clear a >>flooded condition. >> >> >> >> >>> There are more reliable tests. Take off that access port and have >>> someone crank the engine while you listen to the top of the fuel pump >>> with a stethoscope. You should hear a whirring if the pump is >>> working. Usually it is audible without the stethoscope. >> >> >> >>It's a lot easier to simply pull the gas filler cap and listen with your >>ears. The pump will run for two seconds when the key is first turned to >>"II". You will hear a whine/buzz. > > On both my CRX and 96 Civic (and my wife's 96 Accord) you could hear the > pump spin up. Of course, these were manuals, so I waited a second or so > before pushing the clutch in. > > >>If you wear a hearing aid, as I do, it's even easier. Just switch the >>aid to the "T" setting and listen as you turn the key to "II". >> >> > I'll bet you're fun to be around when the battery starts to go. At > least my m-i-l is. :-) > >><snip> >> >> >> >> >>> 3. The price of the fuel pump will depend upon the brand and the >>> supplier. Usually OEM parts tend to be more expensive, but using the >>> proper replacement part will come with certain guarantees. You know >>> that the OEM part was made specifically to fit in this car. No part >>> of it will have to be bent, clipped off or otherwise reshaped to fit >>> into place. >>> >>> >> >>OEM is far better /build quality/, never mind physical fit. Materials >>are higher quality, bearings are bigger, seals are better, fit is >>better, all sorts of things. >> >>If I had the time and inclination, I'd regale you for hours with horror >>stories of all the aftermarket junk I've seen and heard of over the >>years. >> >>Do yourself a favor and buy OEM. For the average driver who just needs >>his car to get from work to home without fail, OEM is well worth the >>extra cost. |
Re: CR-V Fuel pump labor
On Sat, 17 Jan 2009 02:39:25 +0000, Tegger wrote:
> jack42038 <jacklarwa@yahoo.com> wrote in > news:05c28a44-bd3a-449b-8a43-f4ef2d7f98f0@v42g2000yqv.googlegroups.com: > >> On Jan 14, 11:11 am, ciggy <ci...@mytrashmail.com> wrote: >>> My 2000 Honda CR-V died on the interstate yesterday. When I tried to >>> restart it, it would crank fine but not catch. I figure this means >>> it's the fuel or ignition. The mechanic's guess is that the fuel pump >>> failed. His guess was based on not smelling any gas when he cranked >>> the engine. Is that a valid test? >>> >>> He said that if it turns out to be the fuel pump, he'd have to remove >>> the fuel tank to get to the pump. However, looking at my repair >>> manual, there's an access panel under the rear left seat that leads to >>> the fuel pump. No need to remove the fuel tank. The mechanic said it >>> would cost about $500 (parts+labor) to replace the fuel pump with an >>> aftermarket one. I see that aftermarket replacement pumps cost >>> anywhere from $35 to $220 online. >>> >>> Does the $500 estimate sound reasonable? How many hours work is it to >>> replace the fuel pump? >>> >>> Thanks >> >> In answer to your questions. >> >> 1. That is a valid way to test for the presence of gas. If you are >> cranking the engine to start it, and the engine doesn't start, then it >> should flood if there is gas coming up front. > > > > > That depends. > > If there is no ignition event, the ECU/ECM/PCM will refuse to fire the > injectors, so no gas and no start and no flood. > > > > > >> You usually can smell a >> flooded engine. > > > Plus you can fix it. > > Simply hold the pedal right to the floor and crank. Provided you've not > got thick floor mats bulking things up and holding the pedal off the > floor, the ECU/ECM/PCM will interpret the resulting WOT combined with > starter operation as a signal to shut off the injectors so as to clear a > flooded condition. > > > > >> There are more reliable tests. Take off that access port and have >> someone crank the engine while you listen to the top of the fuel pump >> with a stethoscope. You should hear a whirring if the pump is working. >> Usually it is audible without the stethoscope. > > > > It's a lot easier to simply pull the gas filler cap and listen with your > ears. The pump will run for two seconds when the key is first turned to > "II". You will hear a whine/buzz. > > If you wear a hearing aid, as I do, it's even easier. Just switch the > aid to the "T" setting and listen as you turn the key to "II". > > <snip> > > > > >> 3. The price of the fuel pump will depend upon the brand and the >> supplier. Usually OEM parts tend to be more expensive, but using the >> proper replacement part will come with certain guarantees. You know >> that the OEM part was made specifically to fit in this car. No part of >> it will have to be bent, clipped off or otherwise reshaped to fit into >> place. >> >> > > OEM is far better /build quality/, never mind physical fit. Materials > are higher quality, bearings are bigger, seals are better, fit is > better, all sorts of things. > > If I had the time and inclination, I'd regale you for hours with horror > stories of all the aftermarket junk I've seen and heard of over the > years. > > Do yourself a favor and buy OEM. For the average driver who just needs > his car to get from work to home without fail, OEM is well worth the > extra cost. the real question is why is he replacing the pump in the first place? do we have diagnostics supporting that? sounds like a typical rip-em-off mechanic guess to me. |
Re: CR-V Fuel pump labor
On Jan 18, 8:48 am, Tegger <inva...@invalid.inv> wrote:
> jack42038 <jackla...@yahoo.com> wrote in news:e081fd17-a9bc-4711-a89d- > 3d75ff657...@r34g2000vbp.googlegroups.com: > > > > > Just because something comes from NAPA doesn't necessarily mean it is > > the Original Equipment for your vehicle. Ask them. Places like > > AutoZone and Advance will usually give you the option of OEM and > > Aftermarket. > > NAPA/AZ/Advance/whoever _cannot_ give you OEM. They can only give you "OEM- > spec", or "OEM quality". Both are most definitely aftermarket and of > aftermarket quality. > > OEM _only_ comes from a Honda dealer. > > -- > Tegger > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/ OKAY, so what I am seeing here is that when the stores tell me that it is an OEM part they are really saying it is supposedly up to "OEM" specs but not really an OEM part? Well that sucks. I had no idea about that. On a high note I cleaned the EGR valve this weekend on my 97 Jaguar VDP (AJ16 X300 series) and gained about 8mpg. Wooo HOOO!!! That was an easy fix and I can't begin to tell you how delighted I am. Just thought I'd share. The good thing about that car is that nothing but OEM exists for it. You really have to modify anything else to make it fit, so OEM is always the best way to go and it pays to know where to get the best prices for actual OEM ie. Lucas or what have you parts. Thanks again Tegger for keeping us ontrack. My son's little Honda is doing great for a 3 cylinder. At this point it gets him where it needs to and in the event it dies I have free towing and can be wherever he is in less than an hour. I am still looking for a replacement BT to drop into his chassis that is in good working order. Would the Lx (Carbureted engine do okay in that car?) I also echo Jim's question. Did we ever figure out for sure if this guy's problem was his fuel pump? I wondered if it could be as simple as the EFI main relay, but does this car have that little doo-dad? Peace! Jack the Barbarian. |
Re: CR-V Fuel pump labor
Thus spake Tegger <invalid@invalid.inv> :
>Dillon Pyron <invaliddmpyron@austin.rr.com> wrote in >news:fso2n4t0b9o0v2me489qc8am7rnudhsanv@4ax.com : > <major snippage> >> >> I'll bet you're fun to be around when the battery starts to go. At >> least my m-i-l is. :-) > > > >What's a pain these days is how the batteries now last a couple of >weeks, so you forget when you put the last one in, and I keep forgetting >to carry a spare with me. That's my mother-in-law's problem. She has one of the ungodly expensive Siemens over the ear. She used to have two cheaper ones, but she complained about noise. > >Modern digital aids stay at full volume for a while even with a failing >battery, but they give you a series of tones (that only you hear) when >the voltage begins falling. This gives you an hour or so to round a up a >replacement before it fails outright. The old analog aids would simply >go dead on you with little warning. Thank goodness for 24 hour Walgreens. -- - dillon I am not invalid Men are like a carpet. Lay them well and you can walk on them for years. |
Re: CR-V Fuel pump labor
Thus spake jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> :
>On Fri, 16 Jan 2009 22:53:13 -0600, Dillon Pyron wrote: > >> Thus spake Tegger <invalid@invalid.inv> : >> >>>jack42038 <jacklarwa@yahoo.com> wrote in >>>news:05c28a44-bd3a-449b-8a43-f4ef2d7f98f0@v42g2000yqv.googlegroups.com: >>> >>>> On Jan 14, 11:11 am, ciggy <ci...@mytrashmail.com> wrote: >>>>> My 2000 Honda CR-V died on the interstate yesterday. When I tried to >>>>> restart it, it would crank fine but not catch. I figure this means >>>>> it's the fuel or ignition. The mechanic's guess is that the fuel >>>>> pump failed. His guess was based on not smelling any gas when he >>>>> cranked the engine. Is that a valid test? >>>>> >>>>> He said that if it turns out to be the fuel pump, he'd have to remove >>>>> the fuel tank to get to the pump. However, looking at my repair >>>>> manual, there's an access panel under the rear left seat that leads >>>>> to the fuel pump. No need to remove the fuel tank. The mechanic said >>>>> it would cost about $500 (parts+labor) to replace the fuel pump with >>>>> an aftermarket one. I see that aftermarket replacement pumps cost >>>>> anywhere from $35 to $220 online. >>>>> >>>>> Does the $500 estimate sound reasonable? How many hours work is it to >>>>> replace the fuel pump? >>>>> >>>>> Thanks >>>> >>>> In answer to your questions. >>>> >>>> 1. That is a valid way to test for the presence of gas. If you are >>>> cranking the engine to start it, and the engine doesn't start, then it >>>> should flood if there is gas coming up front. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>That depends. >>> >>>If there is no ignition event, the ECU/ECM/PCM will refuse to fire the >>>injectors, so no gas and no start and no flood. >> >> Question. Does the inertial kill switch kill the whole thing, or just >> the pump? Or do Hondas even have one? (I know my CRX did). > >not necessary - the ecu switches the pump off after two seconds of >ignition on but no engine run. if the crash is severe enough to kill the >electrics, the problem is still solved. My wife had a 84 Escort GT. She was rear ended one day, just a hard bump. She had the clutch in, but the car just died. And wouldn't crank. Tow truck driver went into the trunk, pulled and access panel and showed where where the reset switch was. Then charged us $45. But we got it back when the hit & run driver was arrested. If you're going to drive off, don't do it at the first on-ramp to have a camera installed! > > > >> >> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>> You usually can smell a >>>> flooded engine. >>> >>> >>>Plus you can fix it. >>> >>>Simply hold the pedal right to the floor and crank. Provided you've not >>>got thick floor mats bulking things up and holding the pedal off the >>>floor, the ECU/ECM/PCM will interpret the resulting WOT combined with >>>starter operation as a signal to shut off the injectors so as to clear a >>>flooded condition. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>> There are more reliable tests. Take off that access port and have >>>> someone crank the engine while you listen to the top of the fuel pump >>>> with a stethoscope. You should hear a whirring if the pump is >>>> working. Usually it is audible without the stethoscope. >>> >>> >>> >>>It's a lot easier to simply pull the gas filler cap and listen with your >>>ears. The pump will run for two seconds when the key is first turned to >>>"II". You will hear a whine/buzz. >> >> On both my CRX and 96 Civic (and my wife's 96 Accord) you could hear the >> pump spin up. Of course, these were manuals, so I waited a second or so >> before pushing the clutch in. >> >> >>>If you wear a hearing aid, as I do, it's even easier. Just switch the >>>aid to the "T" setting and listen as you turn the key to "II". >>> >>> >> I'll bet you're fun to be around when the battery starts to go. At >> least my m-i-l is. :-) >> >>><snip> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>> 3. The price of the fuel pump will depend upon the brand and the >>>> supplier. Usually OEM parts tend to be more expensive, but using the >>>> proper replacement part will come with certain guarantees. You know >>>> that the OEM part was made specifically to fit in this car. No part >>>> of it will have to be bent, clipped off or otherwise reshaped to fit >>>> into place. >>>> >>>> >>> >>>OEM is far better /build quality/, never mind physical fit. Materials >>>are higher quality, bearings are bigger, seals are better, fit is >>>better, all sorts of things. >>> >>>If I had the time and inclination, I'd regale you for hours with horror >>>stories of all the aftermarket junk I've seen and heard of over the >>>years. >>> >>>Do yourself a favor and buy OEM. For the average driver who just needs >>>his car to get from work to home without fail, OEM is well worth the >>>extra cost. -- - dillon I am not invalid Men are like a carpet. Lay them well and you can walk on them for years. |
Re: CR-V Fuel pump labor
"Dillon Pyron" <invaliddmpyron@austin.rr.com> wrote in message news:hfhan4t41gqdbb4u4v3g63npmltt40sf99@4ax.com... > Thus spake jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> : > >>On Fri, 16 Jan 2009 22:53:13 -0600, Dillon Pyron wrote: >> >>> Thus spake Tegger <invalid@invalid.inv> : >>> <I hope I got this snip right, but it doesn't look right> >>> >>> Question. Does the inertial kill switch kill the whole thing, or just >>> the pump? Or do Hondas even have one? (I know my CRX did). >> >>not necessary - the ecu switches the pump off after two seconds of >>ignition on but no engine run. if the crash is severe enough to kill the >>electrics, the problem is still solved. > > My wife had a 84 Escort GT. She was rear ended one day, just a hard > bump. She had the clutch in, but the car just died. And wouldn't > crank. Tow truck driver went into the trunk, pulled and access panel > and showed where where the reset switch was. Then charged us $45. But > we got it back when the hit & run driver was arrested. If you're > going to drive off, don't do it at the first on-ramp to have a camera > installed! > Ford was doing that even into the '90s, I think. I ran across it on an in-law's Escort. For all I know they are doing it still. Most cars use the "ignition firing" criterion. I had an '84 Nissan that had some sort of ECU problem in which the fuel pump control part didn't know the ignition was still going. It would die like clockwork while I was driving, requiring me to push in the clutch and use the starter to reset it. I eventually had to bypass the safety cutout. Mike |
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