Dealing with screws, bolts etc
 

I am trying to perform several tasks that all seem to end up the same --
stymied by a rusted, stripped, immobile screw, bolt, or connector. (My car
is a 99, driven eight winters on salt-laden streets.)

The latest is the retaining screw that holds the air tube on the throttle
body which won't budge no matter what I've tried. If I could get it off,
I'd like to remove and clean the throttle body but I have no idea what
obstacles that will present. I'm also trying to get to the IACV which is
way behind the throttle. The one screw I can see looks rusty to me, and I'm
put off by attacking the ones I can't see. I also need to remove the
distributor and expect to find similar obstacles in that job.

Any advice, tricks, tips etc. for dealing with these energy-sapping
obstacles would be appreciated. Thanks.

Re: Dealing with screws, bolts etc
 

John Smith wrote:
> I am trying to perform several tasks that all seem to end up the same --
> stymied by a rusted, stripped, immobile screw, bolt, or connector. (My car
> is a 99, driven eight winters on salt-laden streets.)
>
> The latest is the retaining screw that holds the air tube on the throttle
> body which won't budge no matter what I've tried. If I could get it off,
> I'd like to remove and clean the throttle body but I have no idea what
> obstacles that will present. I'm also trying to get to the IACV which is
> way behind the throttle. The one screw I can see looks rusty to me, and I'm
> put off by attacking the ones I can't see. I also need to remove the
> distributor and expect to find similar obstacles in that job.
>
> Any advice, tricks, tips etc. for dealing with these energy-sapping
> obstacles would be appreciated. Thanks.

--------------------------

Your diagrams are at www.slhondaparts.com and PB Blaster seems to be
good stuff for pre-soaking sticky nuts. Beware it might dissolve some
HOSES. As for cleaning the throttle body you can do a basic job by
reaching in and cleaning the throttle plate and inside with a dampened
cloth, after removing the rubber intake tube.

'Curly'

Re: Dealing with screws, bolts etc
 

John Smith wrote:
> I am trying to perform several tasks that all seem to end up the same --
> stymied by a rusted, stripped, immobile screw, bolt, or connector. (My car
> is a 99, driven eight winters on salt-laden streets.)
>
> The latest is the retaining screw that holds the air tube on the throttle
> body which won't budge no matter what I've tried. If I could get it off,
> I'd like to remove and clean the throttle body but I have no idea what
> obstacles that will present. I'm also trying to get to the IACV which is
> way behind the throttle. The one screw I can see looks rusty to me, and I'm
> put off by attacking the ones I can't see. I also need to remove the
> distributor and expect to find similar obstacles in that job.
>
> Any advice, tricks, tips etc. for dealing with these energy-sapping
> obstacles would be appreciated. Thanks.

--------------------------

Your diagrams are at www.slhondaparts.com and PB Blaster seems to be
good stuff for pre-soaking sticky nuts. Beware it might dissolve some
HOSES. As for cleaning the throttle body you can do a basic job by
reaching in and cleaning the throttle plate and inside with a dampened
cloth, after removing the rubber intake tube.

'Curly'

Re: Dealing with screws, bolts etc
 

John Smith wrote:
> I am trying to perform several tasks that all seem to end up the same --
> stymied by a rusted, stripped, immobile screw, bolt, or connector. (My car
> is a 99, driven eight winters on salt-laden streets.)
>
> The latest is the retaining screw that holds the air tube on the throttle
> body which won't budge no matter what I've tried. If I could get it off,
> I'd like to remove and clean the throttle body but I have no idea what
> obstacles that will present. I'm also trying to get to the IACV which is
> way behind the throttle. The one screw I can see looks rusty to me, and I'm
> put off by attacking the ones I can't see. I also need to remove the
> distributor and expect to find similar obstacles in that job.
>
> Any advice, tricks, tips etc. for dealing with these energy-sapping
> obstacles would be appreciated. Thanks.

--------------------------

Your diagrams are at www.slhondaparts.com and PB Blaster seems to be
good stuff for pre-soaking sticky nuts. Beware it might dissolve some
HOSES. As for cleaning the throttle body you can do a basic job by
reaching in and cleaning the throttle plate and inside with a dampened
cloth, after removing the rubber intake tube.

'Curly'

Re: Dealing with screws, bolts etc
 

Like Curly wrote, PB Blaster is the best stuff around for
freeing rusty bolts and screws. It's available for a few
dollars a can at Autozone, Wal-Mart, etc. Tapping on the
bolt or screw can help shake some rust off, too. Soak with
the PB Blaster, tap, soak again, try to unfasten.

Post specific instances here, and people can give more
advice, depending on the scenario. And there are a lot of
them!

"John Smith" <jsmith@yahoo.com> wrote
>I am trying to perform several tasks that all seem to end
>up the same -- stymied by a rusted, stripped, immobile
>screw, bolt, or connector. (My car is a 99, driven eight
>winters on salt-laden streets.)
>
> The latest is the retaining screw that holds the air tube
> on the throttle body which won't budge no matter what I've
> tried. If I could get it off, I'd like to remove and
> clean the throttle body but I have no idea what obstacles
> that will present. I'm also trying to get to the IACV
> which is way behind the throttle. The one screw I can see
> looks rusty to me, and I'm put off by attacking the ones I
> can't see. I also need to remove the distributor and
> expect to find similar obstacles in that job.
>
> Any advice, tricks, tips etc. for dealing with these
> energy-sapping obstacles would be appreciated. Thanks.
>
>
>

Re: Dealing with screws, bolts etc
 

Like Curly wrote, PB Blaster is the best stuff around for
freeing rusty bolts and screws. It's available for a few
dollars a can at Autozone, Wal-Mart, etc. Tapping on the
bolt or screw can help shake some rust off, too. Soak with
the PB Blaster, tap, soak again, try to unfasten.

Post specific instances here, and people can give more
advice, depending on the scenario. And there are a lot of
them!

"John Smith" <jsmith@yahoo.com> wrote
>I am trying to perform several tasks that all seem to end
>up the same -- stymied by a rusted, stripped, immobile
>screw, bolt, or connector. (My car is a 99, driven eight
>winters on salt-laden streets.)
>
> The latest is the retaining screw that holds the air tube
> on the throttle body which won't budge no matter what I've
> tried. If I could get it off, I'd like to remove and
> clean the throttle body but I have no idea what obstacles
> that will present. I'm also trying to get to the IACV
> which is way behind the throttle. The one screw I can see
> looks rusty to me, and I'm put off by attacking the ones I
> can't see. I also need to remove the distributor and
> expect to find similar obstacles in that job.
>
> Any advice, tricks, tips etc. for dealing with these
> energy-sapping obstacles would be appreciated. Thanks.
>
>
>

Re: Dealing with screws, bolts etc
 

Like Curly wrote, PB Blaster is the best stuff around for
freeing rusty bolts and screws. It's available for a few
dollars a can at Autozone, Wal-Mart, etc. Tapping on the
bolt or screw can help shake some rust off, too. Soak with
the PB Blaster, tap, soak again, try to unfasten.

Post specific instances here, and people can give more
advice, depending on the scenario. And there are a lot of
them!

"John Smith" <jsmith@yahoo.com> wrote
>I am trying to perform several tasks that all seem to end
>up the same -- stymied by a rusted, stripped, immobile
>screw, bolt, or connector. (My car is a 99, driven eight
>winters on salt-laden streets.)
>
> The latest is the retaining screw that holds the air tube
> on the throttle body which won't budge no matter what I've
> tried. If I could get it off, I'd like to remove and
> clean the throttle body but I have no idea what obstacles
> that will present. I'm also trying to get to the IACV
> which is way behind the throttle. The one screw I can see
> looks rusty to me, and I'm put off by attacking the ones I
> can't see. I also need to remove the distributor and
> expect to find similar obstacles in that job.
>
> Any advice, tricks, tips etc. for dealing with these
> energy-sapping obstacles would be appreciated. Thanks.
>
>
>

Re: Dealing with screws, bolts etc
 

PB Blaster is the stuff to use! the only thing I have ever found that
I liked as much as PB was Valvoline Synthetic lube but I can't find
the stuff any more. You will want to use six point sockets rather than
a twelve point socket, you will have a lot smaller chance of stripping
the head off of the bolt. If you have any rusted bolts that give you a
lot of trouble or look rough I would replace the bolt.

Re: Dealing with screws, bolts etc
 

PB Blaster is the stuff to use! the only thing I have ever found that
I liked as much as PB was Valvoline Synthetic lube but I can't find
the stuff any more. You will want to use six point sockets rather than
a twelve point socket, you will have a lot smaller chance of stripping
the head off of the bolt. If you have any rusted bolts that give you a
lot of trouble or look rough I would replace the bolt.

Re: Dealing with screws, bolts etc
 

PB Blaster is the stuff to use! the only thing I have ever found that
I liked as much as PB was Valvoline Synthetic lube but I can't find
the stuff any more. You will want to use six point sockets rather than
a twelve point socket, you will have a lot smaller chance of stripping
the head off of the bolt. If you have any rusted bolts that give you a
lot of trouble or look rough I would replace the bolt.

Re: Dealing with screws, bolts etc
 

"John Smith" <jsmith@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:pWtgi.1$at7.0@newsfe12.lga:

> I am trying to perform several tasks that all seem to end up the same
> -- stymied by a rusted, stripped, immobile screw, bolt, or connector.
> (My car is a 99, driven eight winters on salt-laden streets.)
>
> The latest is the retaining screw that holds the air tube on the
> throttle body which won't budge no matter what I've tried.



Use a set of angled needle-nose pliers and turn the shaft of the screw.
Failing that, use a Dremel to cut the screw in half. Replace the
assembly with a regular worm-type hose clamp, which, oddly enough, fits
perfectly.

A new correct clamp assembly is about $10 at the dealer.

You can also lever the air hose off the throttle body, but be careful
not to damage it or the aluminum casting.


> If I could
> get it off, I'd like to remove and clean the throttle body but I have
> no idea what obstacles that will present. I'm also trying to get to
> the IACV which is way behind the throttle. The one screw I can see
> looks rusty to me, and I'm put off by attacking the ones I can't see.
> I also need to remove the distributor and expect to find similar
> obstacles in that job.
>
> Any advice, tricks, tips etc. for dealing with these energy-sapping
> obstacles would be appreciated. Thanks.
>



Six-point sockets and air tools.



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Re: Dealing with screws, bolts etc
 

"John Smith" <jsmith@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:pWtgi.1$at7.0@newsfe12.lga:

> I am trying to perform several tasks that all seem to end up the same
> -- stymied by a rusted, stripped, immobile screw, bolt, or connector.
> (My car is a 99, driven eight winters on salt-laden streets.)
>
> The latest is the retaining screw that holds the air tube on the
> throttle body which won't budge no matter what I've tried.



Use a set of angled needle-nose pliers and turn the shaft of the screw.
Failing that, use a Dremel to cut the screw in half. Replace the
assembly with a regular worm-type hose clamp, which, oddly enough, fits
perfectly.

A new correct clamp assembly is about $10 at the dealer.

You can also lever the air hose off the throttle body, but be careful
not to damage it or the aluminum casting.


> If I could
> get it off, I'd like to remove and clean the throttle body but I have
> no idea what obstacles that will present. I'm also trying to get to
> the IACV which is way behind the throttle. The one screw I can see
> looks rusty to me, and I'm put off by attacking the ones I can't see.
> I also need to remove the distributor and expect to find similar
> obstacles in that job.
>
> Any advice, tricks, tips etc. for dealing with these energy-sapping
> obstacles would be appreciated. Thanks.
>



Six-point sockets and air tools.



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Re: Dealing with screws, bolts etc
 

"John Smith" <jsmith@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:pWtgi.1$at7.0@newsfe12.lga:

> I am trying to perform several tasks that all seem to end up the same
> -- stymied by a rusted, stripped, immobile screw, bolt, or connector.
> (My car is a 99, driven eight winters on salt-laden streets.)
>
> The latest is the retaining screw that holds the air tube on the
> throttle body which won't budge no matter what I've tried.



Use a set of angled needle-nose pliers and turn the shaft of the screw.
Failing that, use a Dremel to cut the screw in half. Replace the
assembly with a regular worm-type hose clamp, which, oddly enough, fits
perfectly.

A new correct clamp assembly is about $10 at the dealer.

You can also lever the air hose off the throttle body, but be careful
not to damage it or the aluminum casting.


> If I could
> get it off, I'd like to remove and clean the throttle body but I have
> no idea what obstacles that will present. I'm also trying to get to
> the IACV which is way behind the throttle. The one screw I can see
> looks rusty to me, and I'm put off by attacking the ones I can't see.
> I also need to remove the distributor and expect to find similar
> obstacles in that job.
>
> Any advice, tricks, tips etc. for dealing with these energy-sapping
> obstacles would be appreciated. Thanks.
>



Six-point sockets and air tools.



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Re: Dealing with screws, bolts etc
 

On Wed, 27 Jun 2007 09:50:21 -0400, John Smith wrote:

> I am trying to perform several tasks that all seem to end up the same --
> stymied by a rusted, stripped, immobile screw, bolt, or connector. (My car
> is a 99, driven eight winters on salt-laden streets.)
>
> The latest is the retaining screw that holds the air tube on the throttle
> body which won't budge no matter what I've tried. If I could get it off,
> I'd like to remove and clean the throttle body but I have no idea what
> obstacles that will present. I'm also trying to get to the IACV which is
> way behind the throttle. The one screw I can see looks rusty to me, and
> I'm put off by attacking the ones I can't see. I also need to remove the
> distributor and expect to find similar obstacles in that job.
>
> Any advice, tricks, tips etc. for dealing with these energy-sapping
> obstacles would be appreciated. Thanks.


GM Penatrant/Lubricant. Get it at a GM parts counter (yes, GM *DOES*
actually make something worthwhile! ;)

Runs $8~12 depending how much of a discount the parts guy gives you...

Spray anything you want to work on a day in advance. Spray everything
else, too.

I had a Toyota Tercel that had the usual rust/corrosion, and sprayed them
with this stuff. Teo days later they looked NEW! Periodic sprays kept them
looking new, and made them easy to remove.

Re: Dealing with screws, bolts etc
 

On Wed, 27 Jun 2007 09:50:21 -0400, John Smith wrote:

> I am trying to perform several tasks that all seem to end up the same --
> stymied by a rusted, stripped, immobile screw, bolt, or connector. (My car
> is a 99, driven eight winters on salt-laden streets.)
>
> The latest is the retaining screw that holds the air tube on the throttle
> body which won't budge no matter what I've tried. If I could get it off,
> I'd like to remove and clean the throttle body but I have no idea what
> obstacles that will present. I'm also trying to get to the IACV which is
> way behind the throttle. The one screw I can see looks rusty to me, and
> I'm put off by attacking the ones I can't see. I also need to remove the
> distributor and expect to find similar obstacles in that job.
>
> Any advice, tricks, tips etc. for dealing with these energy-sapping
> obstacles would be appreciated. Thanks.


GM Penatrant/Lubricant. Get it at a GM parts counter (yes, GM *DOES*
actually make something worthwhile! ;)

Runs $8~12 depending how much of a discount the parts guy gives you...

Spray anything you want to work on a day in advance. Spray everything
else, too.

I had a Toyota Tercel that had the usual rust/corrosion, and sprayed them
with this stuff. Teo days later they looked NEW! Periodic sprays kept them
looking new, and made them easy to remove.