EGR valve...
 

Out of curiosity today I disconnected the EGR valve on my '86 Prelude 1.8
dual carb w/ 5 speed. My good ness what a difference it made. Drivability
when the engine is cold is great, I don't have to rev it out the wazoo to
keep it from shuddering and bucking anymore. Also, I immediately noticed a
huge increase in power. The thing loves to rev now, I step on the gas and it
really winds up, and throttle response is so crisp and quick. Before it
would accelerate and rev nicely (though not as good as it does now) until a
certain point of throttle opening when presumably the EGR valve would really
start to open up. The car would then fall flat on it's face and bog down, if
I backed off the throttle it would perk back up. Now I can slam the throttle
down and the thing winds up and keep going.

I guess what I'm getting at is that it feels like a whole new car. I would
prefer to have the EGR valve connected to reduce emissions, but not unless
the car will run right with it connected. I think I'm going to try taking it
off and cleaning it out to see if that helps at all. If not then I'll leave
it as it is now. So does it sound like the EGR is working properly? It
definitely is 'working' as I can tell a huge difference when it's connected.
The car will now push you back into the seat if you get on it, I love the
performance. Also I expect mileage to increase, as I've heard others say
that when their EGR valve broke or they disabled it their mileage increased
a good bit. I would think the increase in mileage from a better running
engine would help offset the increased pollution. Anyway, let me know what
you guys think about keeping the EGR disabled, and if there is any way to
get the engine running well with it connected.

Cory

Re: EGR valve...
 

In article <1GXrb.21128$y95.14191@nwrdny01.gnilink.net>, "Cory Dunkle"
<cadnews@verizon.net> wrote:

> Out of curiosity today I disconnected the EGR valve on my '86 Prelude 1.8
> dual carb w/ 5 speed. My good ness what a difference it made. Drivability
> when the engine is cold is great, I don't have to rev it out the wazoo to
> keep it from shuddering and bucking anymore. Also, I immediately noticed a
> huge increase in power. The thing loves to rev now, I step on the gas and it
> really winds up, and throttle response is so crisp and quick. Before it
> would accelerate and rev nicely (though not as good as it does now) until a
> certain point of throttle opening when presumably the EGR valve would really
> start to open up. The car would then fall flat on it's face and bog down, if
> I backed off the throttle it would perk back up. Now I can slam the throttle
> down and the thing winds up and keep going.
>
> I guess what I'm getting at is that it feels like a whole new car. I would
> prefer to have the EGR valve connected to reduce emissions, but not unless
> the car will run right with it connected. I think I'm going to try taking it
> off and cleaning it out to see if that helps at all. If not then I'll leave
> it as it is now. So does it sound like the EGR is working properly? It
> definitely is 'working' as I can tell a huge difference when it's connected.
> The car will now push you back into the seat if you get on it, I love the
> performance. Also I expect mileage to increase, as I've heard others say
> that when their EGR valve broke or they disabled it their mileage increased
> a good bit. I would think the increase in mileage from a better running
> engine would help offset the increased pollution. Anyway, let me know what
> you guys think about keeping the EGR disabled, and if there is any way to
> get the engine running well with it connected.
>
> Cory

Cory,
I suggest that you buy a NEW EGR valve and try it for a week. It's
possible that your old EGR valve was clogged up. If you have a state
inspection of any type--make sure you reinstall the EGR valve prior to the
inspection. I once had a 1969 Chevy Nova. It ran much better after I
removed all of the anti pollution equipment. I would never do it on my
1999 Honda Accord since it runs just great even with all of the
anti-pollution equipment. We all should care about our environment.

Re: EGR valve...
 

In article <1GXrb.21128$y95.14191@nwrdny01.gnilink.net>, "Cory Dunkle"
<cadnews@verizon.net> wrote:

> Out of curiosity today I disconnected the EGR valve on my '86 Prelude 1.8
> dual carb w/ 5 speed. My good ness what a difference it made. Drivability
> when the engine is cold is great, I don't have to rev it out the wazoo to
> keep it from shuddering and bucking anymore. Also, I immediately noticed a
> huge increase in power. The thing loves to rev now, I step on the gas and it
> really winds up, and throttle response is so crisp and quick. Before it
> would accelerate and rev nicely (though not as good as it does now) until a
> certain point of throttle opening when presumably the EGR valve would really
> start to open up. The car would then fall flat on it's face and bog down, if
> I backed off the throttle it would perk back up. Now I can slam the throttle
> down and the thing winds up and keep going.
>
> I guess what I'm getting at is that it feels like a whole new car. I would
> prefer to have the EGR valve connected to reduce emissions, but not unless
> the car will run right with it connected. I think I'm going to try taking it
> off and cleaning it out to see if that helps at all. If not then I'll leave
> it as it is now. So does it sound like the EGR is working properly? It
> definitely is 'working' as I can tell a huge difference when it's connected.
> The car will now push you back into the seat if you get on it, I love the
> performance. Also I expect mileage to increase, as I've heard others say
> that when their EGR valve broke or they disabled it their mileage increased
> a good bit. I would think the increase in mileage from a better running
> engine would help offset the increased pollution. Anyway, let me know what
> you guys think about keeping the EGR disabled, and if there is any way to
> get the engine running well with it connected.
>
> Cory

Cory,
I suggest that you buy a NEW EGR valve and try it for a week. It's
possible that your old EGR valve was clogged up. If you have a state
inspection of any type--make sure you reinstall the EGR valve prior to the
inspection. I once had a 1969 Chevy Nova. It ran much better after I
removed all of the anti pollution equipment. I would never do it on my
1999 Honda Accord since it runs just great even with all of the
anti-pollution equipment. We all should care about our environment.

Re: EGR valve...
 

In article <1GXrb.21128$y95.14191@nwrdny01.gnilink.net>, "Cory Dunkle"
<cadnews@verizon.net> wrote:

> Out of curiosity today I disconnected the EGR valve on my '86 Prelude 1.8
> dual carb w/ 5 speed. My good ness what a difference it made. Drivability
> when the engine is cold is great, I don't have to rev it out the wazoo to
> keep it from shuddering and bucking anymore. Also, I immediately noticed a
> huge increase in power. The thing loves to rev now, I step on the gas and it
> really winds up, and throttle response is so crisp and quick. Before it
> would accelerate and rev nicely (though not as good as it does now) until a
> certain point of throttle opening when presumably the EGR valve would really
> start to open up. The car would then fall flat on it's face and bog down, if
> I backed off the throttle it would perk back up. Now I can slam the throttle
> down and the thing winds up and keep going.
>
> I guess what I'm getting at is that it feels like a whole new car. I would
> prefer to have the EGR valve connected to reduce emissions, but not unless
> the car will run right with it connected. I think I'm going to try taking it
> off and cleaning it out to see if that helps at all. If not then I'll leave
> it as it is now. So does it sound like the EGR is working properly? It
> definitely is 'working' as I can tell a huge difference when it's connected.
> The car will now push you back into the seat if you get on it, I love the
> performance. Also I expect mileage to increase, as I've heard others say
> that when their EGR valve broke or they disabled it their mileage increased
> a good bit. I would think the increase in mileage from a better running
> engine would help offset the increased pollution. Anyway, let me know what
> you guys think about keeping the EGR disabled, and if there is any way to
> get the engine running well with it connected.
>
> Cory

Cory,
I suggest that you buy a NEW EGR valve and try it for a week. It's
possible that your old EGR valve was clogged up. If you have a state
inspection of any type--make sure you reinstall the EGR valve prior to the
inspection. I once had a 1969 Chevy Nova. It ran much better after I
removed all of the anti pollution equipment. I would never do it on my
1999 Honda Accord since it runs just great even with all of the
anti-pollution equipment. We all should care about our environment.

Re: EGR valve...
 

In article <1GXrb.21128$y95.14191@nwrdny01.gnilink.net>, "Cory Dunkle"
<cadnews@verizon.net> wrote:

> Out of curiosity today I disconnected the EGR valve on my '86 Prelude 1.8
> dual carb w/ 5 speed. My good ness what a difference it made. Drivability
> when the engine is cold is great, I don't have to rev it out the wazoo to
> keep it from shuddering and bucking anymore. Also, I immediately noticed a
> huge increase in power. The thing loves to rev now, I step on the gas and it
> really winds up, and throttle response is so crisp and quick. Before it
> would accelerate and rev nicely (though not as good as it does now) until a
> certain point of throttle opening when presumably the EGR valve would really
> start to open up. The car would then fall flat on it's face and bog down, if
> I backed off the throttle it would perk back up. Now I can slam the throttle
> down and the thing winds up and keep going.
>
> I guess what I'm getting at is that it feels like a whole new car. I would
> prefer to have the EGR valve connected to reduce emissions, but not unless
> the car will run right with it connected. I think I'm going to try taking it
> off and cleaning it out to see if that helps at all. If not then I'll leave
> it as it is now. So does it sound like the EGR is working properly? It
> definitely is 'working' as I can tell a huge difference when it's connected.
> The car will now push you back into the seat if you get on it, I love the
> performance. Also I expect mileage to increase, as I've heard others say
> that when their EGR valve broke or they disabled it their mileage increased
> a good bit. I would think the increase in mileage from a better running
> engine would help offset the increased pollution. Anyway, let me know what
> you guys think about keeping the EGR disabled, and if there is any way to
> get the engine running well with it connected.
>
> Cory

Cory,
I suggest that you buy a NEW EGR valve and try it for a week. It's
possible that your old EGR valve was clogged up. If you have a state
inspection of any type--make sure you reinstall the EGR valve prior to the
inspection. I once had a 1969 Chevy Nova. It ran much better after I
removed all of the anti pollution equipment. I would never do it on my
1999 Honda Accord since it runs just great even with all of the
anti-pollution equipment. We all should care about our environment.

Re: EGR valve...
 

EGR valve is closed when doing the things such as idle. If
disconnecting EGR valve changes engine (such as accelerate
from idle), then EGR valve remains closed always - which can,
worst case, result in burned cylinder valves.

Dual carb Honda would be a CVCC engine. Many previous
owners or mechanics thought they were smarter than the shop
manual and changed some screw settings on that CVCC carb (its
more than just a two barrel carburetor). Those settings
required factory adjustment. IOW those who first did not read
then made a mess of things. EGR valve would not fix their
messups.

EGR valve might be opening prematurely or might not be
leaking down to permit valve to close - causing your symptoms.
Best and simple is to buy a plastic tee, some rubber hose, and
a vacuum gauge. Very little money and very educational. Run
the car with that hose 'teed' to EGR vacuum line. Watch how
vacuum changes as car does various actions. No vacuum means
EGR valve is closed. What EGR valve does under various
conditions is nicely explained in 1980's Honda shop manuals -
that also shows how those vacuum lines are controlled.

A problem with those older Hondas was grease used inside
distributor. It would get sticky with age. Then the vacuum
advance and vacuum retard would not always adjust engine
timing properly. With extreme care and shop manual, removed,
disassembled, and greased those points with a special high
temperature wheel bearing grease (not oil or WD-40). Made
that Honda into a brand new engine. Worst problem was when
timing should have relaxed back to idle position, but remained
advanced as if in high speed operation due to sticky grease.
Then the engine would knock and buck.

Just some ideas on how to find the problem rather than
curing the symptoms - ie. disconnecting EGR valve to burn
cylinder valves.

EGR valve should not even be opening when engine is cold.
Furthermore, all those hoses, even on the Chevy Nova, were not
really anti-pollution equipment. Go back to the 60s before
pollution control was required. All those same hoses, etc
were on the 1960 engines that were sold as higher mileage
engines. Those hoses were required so that engine adapted
better to changing loads. But since MBAs were now top
management, they wants to call more expensive engines evil -
and called it anti-pollution equipment.

Get the vacuum gauge, monitor what those vacuum lines are
doing when cold, when accelerating, etc. They replace the
part that would be causing erratic operation. Easy to do with
a shop manual.

"Bill B. Johnson" wrote:
> In article <1GXrb.21128$y95.14191@nwrdny01.gnilink.net>, "Cory Dunkle"
> <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote:
>> Out of curiosity today I disconnected the EGR valve on my '86
>> Prelude 1.8 dual carb w/ 5 speed. My good ness what a difference
>> it made. Drivability when the engine is cold is great, I don't
>> have to rev it out the wazoo to keep it from shuddering and
>> bucking anymore. Also, I immediately noticed a huge increase in
>> power. The thing loves to rev now, I step on the gas and it
>> really winds up, and throttle response is so crisp and quick.
>> Before it would accelerate and rev nicely (though not as good
>> as it does now) until a certain point of throttle opening when
>> presumably the EGR valve would really start to open up. The car
>> would then fall flat on it's face and bog down, if I backed off
>> the throttle it would perk back up. Now I can slam the throttle
>> down and the thing winds up and keep going.
>>
> Cory,
> I suggest that you buy a NEW EGR valve and try it for a week. It's
> possible that your old EGR valve was clogged up. If you have a state
> inspection of any type--make sure you reinstall the EGR valve prior
> to the inspection. I once had a 1969 Chevy Nova. It ran much better
> after I removed all of the anti pollution equipment. I would never
> do it on my 1999 Honda Accord since it runs just great even with all
> of the anti-pollution equipment. We all should care about our
> environment.

Re: EGR valve...
 

EGR valve is closed when doing the things such as idle. If
disconnecting EGR valve changes engine (such as accelerate
from idle), then EGR valve remains closed always - which can,
worst case, result in burned cylinder valves.

Dual carb Honda would be a CVCC engine. Many previous
owners or mechanics thought they were smarter than the shop
manual and changed some screw settings on that CVCC carb (its
more than just a two barrel carburetor). Those settings
required factory adjustment. IOW those who first did not read
then made a mess of things. EGR valve would not fix their
messups.

EGR valve might be opening prematurely or might not be
leaking down to permit valve to close - causing your symptoms.
Best and simple is to buy a plastic tee, some rubber hose, and
a vacuum gauge. Very little money and very educational. Run
the car with that hose 'teed' to EGR vacuum line. Watch how
vacuum changes as car does various actions. No vacuum means
EGR valve is closed. What EGR valve does under various
conditions is nicely explained in 1980's Honda shop manuals -
that also shows how those vacuum lines are controlled.

A problem with those older Hondas was grease used inside
distributor. It would get sticky with age. Then the vacuum
advance and vacuum retard would not always adjust engine
timing properly. With extreme care and shop manual, removed,
disassembled, and greased those points with a special high
temperature wheel bearing grease (not oil or WD-40). Made
that Honda into a brand new engine. Worst problem was when
timing should have relaxed back to idle position, but remained
advanced as if in high speed operation due to sticky grease.
Then the engine would knock and buck.

Just some ideas on how to find the problem rather than
curing the symptoms - ie. disconnecting EGR valve to burn
cylinder valves.

EGR valve should not even be opening when engine is cold.
Furthermore, all those hoses, even on the Chevy Nova, were not
really anti-pollution equipment. Go back to the 60s before
pollution control was required. All those same hoses, etc
were on the 1960 engines that were sold as higher mileage
engines. Those hoses were required so that engine adapted
better to changing loads. But since MBAs were now top
management, they wants to call more expensive engines evil -
and called it anti-pollution equipment.

Get the vacuum gauge, monitor what those vacuum lines are
doing when cold, when accelerating, etc. They replace the
part that would be causing erratic operation. Easy to do with
a shop manual.

"Bill B. Johnson" wrote:
> In article <1GXrb.21128$y95.14191@nwrdny01.gnilink.net>, "Cory Dunkle"
> <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote:
>> Out of curiosity today I disconnected the EGR valve on my '86
>> Prelude 1.8 dual carb w/ 5 speed. My good ness what a difference
>> it made. Drivability when the engine is cold is great, I don't
>> have to rev it out the wazoo to keep it from shuddering and
>> bucking anymore. Also, I immediately noticed a huge increase in
>> power. The thing loves to rev now, I step on the gas and it
>> really winds up, and throttle response is so crisp and quick.
>> Before it would accelerate and rev nicely (though not as good
>> as it does now) until a certain point of throttle opening when
>> presumably the EGR valve would really start to open up. The car
>> would then fall flat on it's face and bog down, if I backed off
>> the throttle it would perk back up. Now I can slam the throttle
>> down and the thing winds up and keep going.
>>
> Cory,
> I suggest that you buy a NEW EGR valve and try it for a week. It's
> possible that your old EGR valve was clogged up. If you have a state
> inspection of any type--make sure you reinstall the EGR valve prior
> to the inspection. I once had a 1969 Chevy Nova. It ran much better
> after I removed all of the anti pollution equipment. I would never
> do it on my 1999 Honda Accord since it runs just great even with all
> of the anti-pollution equipment. We all should care about our
> environment.

Re: EGR valve...
 

EGR valve is closed when doing the things such as idle. If
disconnecting EGR valve changes engine (such as accelerate
from idle), then EGR valve remains closed always - which can,
worst case, result in burned cylinder valves.

Dual carb Honda would be a CVCC engine. Many previous
owners or mechanics thought they were smarter than the shop
manual and changed some screw settings on that CVCC carb (its
more than just a two barrel carburetor). Those settings
required factory adjustment. IOW those who first did not read
then made a mess of things. EGR valve would not fix their
messups.

EGR valve might be opening prematurely or might not be
leaking down to permit valve to close - causing your symptoms.
Best and simple is to buy a plastic tee, some rubber hose, and
a vacuum gauge. Very little money and very educational. Run
the car with that hose 'teed' to EGR vacuum line. Watch how
vacuum changes as car does various actions. No vacuum means
EGR valve is closed. What EGR valve does under various
conditions is nicely explained in 1980's Honda shop manuals -
that also shows how those vacuum lines are controlled.

A problem with those older Hondas was grease used inside
distributor. It would get sticky with age. Then the vacuum
advance and vacuum retard would not always adjust engine
timing properly. With extreme care and shop manual, removed,
disassembled, and greased those points with a special high
temperature wheel bearing grease (not oil or WD-40). Made
that Honda into a brand new engine. Worst problem was when
timing should have relaxed back to idle position, but remained
advanced as if in high speed operation due to sticky grease.
Then the engine would knock and buck.

Just some ideas on how to find the problem rather than
curing the symptoms - ie. disconnecting EGR valve to burn
cylinder valves.

EGR valve should not even be opening when engine is cold.
Furthermore, all those hoses, even on the Chevy Nova, were not
really anti-pollution equipment. Go back to the 60s before
pollution control was required. All those same hoses, etc
were on the 1960 engines that were sold as higher mileage
engines. Those hoses were required so that engine adapted
better to changing loads. But since MBAs were now top
management, they wants to call more expensive engines evil -
and called it anti-pollution equipment.

Get the vacuum gauge, monitor what those vacuum lines are
doing when cold, when accelerating, etc. They replace the
part that would be causing erratic operation. Easy to do with
a shop manual.

"Bill B. Johnson" wrote:
> In article <1GXrb.21128$y95.14191@nwrdny01.gnilink.net>, "Cory Dunkle"
> <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote:
>> Out of curiosity today I disconnected the EGR valve on my '86
>> Prelude 1.8 dual carb w/ 5 speed. My good ness what a difference
>> it made. Drivability when the engine is cold is great, I don't
>> have to rev it out the wazoo to keep it from shuddering and
>> bucking anymore. Also, I immediately noticed a huge increase in
>> power. The thing loves to rev now, I step on the gas and it
>> really winds up, and throttle response is so crisp and quick.
>> Before it would accelerate and rev nicely (though not as good
>> as it does now) until a certain point of throttle opening when
>> presumably the EGR valve would really start to open up. The car
>> would then fall flat on it's face and bog down, if I backed off
>> the throttle it would perk back up. Now I can slam the throttle
>> down and the thing winds up and keep going.
>>
> Cory,
> I suggest that you buy a NEW EGR valve and try it for a week. It's
> possible that your old EGR valve was clogged up. If you have a state
> inspection of any type--make sure you reinstall the EGR valve prior
> to the inspection. I once had a 1969 Chevy Nova. It ran much better
> after I removed all of the anti pollution equipment. I would never
> do it on my 1999 Honda Accord since it runs just great even with all
> of the anti-pollution equipment. We all should care about our
> environment.

Re: EGR valve...
 

EGR valve is closed when doing the things such as idle. If
disconnecting EGR valve changes engine (such as accelerate
from idle), then EGR valve remains closed always - which can,
worst case, result in burned cylinder valves.

Dual carb Honda would be a CVCC engine. Many previous
owners or mechanics thought they were smarter than the shop
manual and changed some screw settings on that CVCC carb (its
more than just a two barrel carburetor). Those settings
required factory adjustment. IOW those who first did not read
then made a mess of things. EGR valve would not fix their
messups.

EGR valve might be opening prematurely or might not be
leaking down to permit valve to close - causing your symptoms.
Best and simple is to buy a plastic tee, some rubber hose, and
a vacuum gauge. Very little money and very educational. Run
the car with that hose 'teed' to EGR vacuum line. Watch how
vacuum changes as car does various actions. No vacuum means
EGR valve is closed. What EGR valve does under various
conditions is nicely explained in 1980's Honda shop manuals -
that also shows how those vacuum lines are controlled.

A problem with those older Hondas was grease used inside
distributor. It would get sticky with age. Then the vacuum
advance and vacuum retard would not always adjust engine
timing properly. With extreme care and shop manual, removed,
disassembled, and greased those points with a special high
temperature wheel bearing grease (not oil or WD-40). Made
that Honda into a brand new engine. Worst problem was when
timing should have relaxed back to idle position, but remained
advanced as if in high speed operation due to sticky grease.
Then the engine would knock and buck.

Just some ideas on how to find the problem rather than
curing the symptoms - ie. disconnecting EGR valve to burn
cylinder valves.

EGR valve should not even be opening when engine is cold.
Furthermore, all those hoses, even on the Chevy Nova, were not
really anti-pollution equipment. Go back to the 60s before
pollution control was required. All those same hoses, etc
were on the 1960 engines that were sold as higher mileage
engines. Those hoses were required so that engine adapted
better to changing loads. But since MBAs were now top
management, they wants to call more expensive engines evil -
and called it anti-pollution equipment.

Get the vacuum gauge, monitor what those vacuum lines are
doing when cold, when accelerating, etc. They replace the
part that would be causing erratic operation. Easy to do with
a shop manual.

"Bill B. Johnson" wrote:
> In article <1GXrb.21128$y95.14191@nwrdny01.gnilink.net>, "Cory Dunkle"
> <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote:
>> Out of curiosity today I disconnected the EGR valve on my '86
>> Prelude 1.8 dual carb w/ 5 speed. My good ness what a difference
>> it made. Drivability when the engine is cold is great, I don't
>> have to rev it out the wazoo to keep it from shuddering and
>> bucking anymore. Also, I immediately noticed a huge increase in
>> power. The thing loves to rev now, I step on the gas and it
>> really winds up, and throttle response is so crisp and quick.
>> Before it would accelerate and rev nicely (though not as good
>> as it does now) until a certain point of throttle opening when
>> presumably the EGR valve would really start to open up. The car
>> would then fall flat on it's face and bog down, if I backed off
>> the throttle it would perk back up. Now I can slam the throttle
>> down and the thing winds up and keep going.
>>
> Cory,
> I suggest that you buy a NEW EGR valve and try it for a week. It's
> possible that your old EGR valve was clogged up. If you have a state
> inspection of any type--make sure you reinstall the EGR valve prior
> to the inspection. I once had a 1969 Chevy Nova. It ran much better
> after I removed all of the anti pollution equipment. I would never
> do it on my 1999 Honda Accord since it runs just great even with all
> of the anti-pollution equipment. We all should care about our
> environment.

Re: EGR valve...
 

"w_tom" <w_tom1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3FB13D47.AAE3F84C@hotmail.com...
> EGR valve is closed when doing the things such as idle. If
> disconnecting EGR valve changes engine (such as accelerate
> from idle), then EGR valve remains closed always - which can,
> worst case, result in burned cylinder valves.

Perhaps larger jets would be the cure then.

> Dual carb Honda would be a CVCC engine. Many previous
> owners or mechanics thought they were smarter than the shop
> manual and changed some screw settings on that CVCC carb (its
> more than just a two barrel carburetor). Those settings
> required factory adjustment. IOW those who first did not read
> then made a mess of things. EGR valve would not fix their
> messups.

What is CVCC? Factory settings are not always optimal for max performance or
even necessarily mileage... In fact more often than not you can get better
performance and mileage with some tweaks... The cost is a little more
pollution. I haven't touched the carbs other than to spray them with some
good carb cleaner, which seemed to help the idle a bit.

> EGR valve might be opening prematurely or might not be
> leaking down to permit valve to close - causing your symptoms.
> Best and simple is to buy a plastic tee, some rubber hose, and
> a vacuum gauge. Very little money and very educational. Run
> the car with that hose 'teed' to EGR vacuum line. Watch how
> vacuum changes as car does various actions. No vacuum means
> EGR valve is closed. What EGR valve does under various
> conditions is nicely explained in 1980's Honda shop manuals -
> that also shows how those vacuum lines are controlled.

It would be interesting to see when the EGR valve opens and how much at
under what loads. I'll probably end up getting a sho manual for the car as I
plan to keep it as long as it isn't prohibitively expensive to fix anything.
I would assume it's ported vacuum that goes to the EGR valve, as manifold
vacuum would open it at idle and close at higher throttle. Unless Honda made
some other screwy vacuum source that is waht it would ahve to be, which
gives me a good idea of when the EGR valve is open.

> A problem with those older Hondas was grease used inside
> distributor. It would get sticky with age. Then the vacuum
> advance and vacuum retard would not always adjust engine
> timing properly. With extreme care and shop manual, removed,
> disassembled, and greased those points with a special high
> temperature wheel bearing grease (not oil or WD-40). Made
> that Honda into a brand new engine. Worst problem was when
> timing should have relaxed back to idle position, but remained
> advanced as if in high speed operation due to sticky grease.
> Then the engine would knock and buck.

I'm planning on advancing the timing as much as it will take to increase
mileage and perforamnce. While I'm at it I will check that the mechanical
advance is working properly. I'm not sure that I remember there being a
vacuum advance on the distributor though. I will check, and ensure they are
working smoothly.

> Just some ideas on how to find the problem rather than
> curing the symptoms - ie. disconnecting EGR valve to burn
> cylinder valves.
>
> EGR valve should not even be opening when engine is cold.

Well it must have been as it made a difference.. Also, the car no longer
stalls at the first stop in the morning.

> Furthermore, all those hoses, even on the Chevy Nova, were not
> really anti-pollution equipment. Go back to the 60s before
> pollution control was required. All those same hoses, etc
> were on the 1960 engines that were sold as higher mileage
> engines. Those hoses were required so that engine adapted
> better to changing loads. But since MBAs were now top
> management, they wants to call more expensive engines evil -
> and called it anti-pollution equipment.

I don't believe a '69 Nova would have had anything involing a significant
amount of vacuum hoses. It would have had a PCV valve, with most likely a
closed crankcase ventilation system (fill cap vented to the air cleaner); a
vacuum _retard_ in addition to advance; and perhaps a smog pump if it was a
California car.

> Get the vacuum gauge, monitor what those vacuum lines are
> doing when cold, when accelerating, etc. They replace the
> part that would be causing erratic operation. Easy to do with
> a shop manual.

Where do I get a shop manual for an '86 Prelude 1.8? I'd rather get the real
thing than a Haynes or Chiltons.

Cory

> "Bill B. Johnson" wrote:
> > In article <1GXrb.21128$y95.14191@nwrdny01.gnilink.net>, "Cory Dunkle"
> > <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote:
> >> Out of curiosity today I disconnected the EGR valve on my '86
> >> Prelude 1.8 dual carb w/ 5 speed. My good ness what a difference
> >> it made. Drivability when the engine is cold is great, I don't
> >> have to rev it out the wazoo to keep it from shuddering and
> >> bucking anymore. Also, I immediately noticed a huge increase in
> >> power. The thing loves to rev now, I step on the gas and it
> >> really winds up, and throttle response is so crisp and quick.
> >> Before it would accelerate and rev nicely (though not as good
> >> as it does now) until a certain point of throttle opening when
> >> presumably the EGR valve would really start to open up. The car
> >> would then fall flat on it's face and bog down, if I backed off
> >> the throttle it would perk back up. Now I can slam the throttle
> >> down and the thing winds up and keep going.
> >>
> > Cory,
> > I suggest that you buy a NEW EGR valve and try it for a week. It's
> > possible that your old EGR valve was clogged up. If you have a state
> > inspection of any type--make sure you reinstall the EGR valve prior
> > to the inspection. I once had a 1969 Chevy Nova. It ran much better
> > after I removed all of the anti pollution equipment. I would never
> > do it on my 1999 Honda Accord since it runs just great even with all
> > of the anti-pollution equipment. We all should care about our
> > environment.

Re: EGR valve...
 

"w_tom" <w_tom1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3FB13D47.AAE3F84C@hotmail.com...
> EGR valve is closed when doing the things such as idle. If
> disconnecting EGR valve changes engine (such as accelerate
> from idle), then EGR valve remains closed always - which can,
> worst case, result in burned cylinder valves.

Perhaps larger jets would be the cure then.

> Dual carb Honda would be a CVCC engine. Many previous
> owners or mechanics thought they were smarter than the shop
> manual and changed some screw settings on that CVCC carb (its
> more than just a two barrel carburetor). Those settings
> required factory adjustment. IOW those who first did not read
> then made a mess of things. EGR valve would not fix their
> messups.

What is CVCC? Factory settings are not always optimal for max performance or
even necessarily mileage... In fact more often than not you can get better
performance and mileage with some tweaks... The cost is a little more
pollution. I haven't touched the carbs other than to spray them with some
good carb cleaner, which seemed to help the idle a bit.

> EGR valve might be opening prematurely or might not be
> leaking down to permit valve to close - causing your symptoms.
> Best and simple is to buy a plastic tee, some rubber hose, and
> a vacuum gauge. Very little money and very educational. Run
> the car with that hose 'teed' to EGR vacuum line. Watch how
> vacuum changes as car does various actions. No vacuum means
> EGR valve is closed. What EGR valve does under various
> conditions is nicely explained in 1980's Honda shop manuals -
> that also shows how those vacuum lines are controlled.

It would be interesting to see when the EGR valve opens and how much at
under what loads. I'll probably end up getting a sho manual for the car as I
plan to keep it as long as it isn't prohibitively expensive to fix anything.
I would assume it's ported vacuum that goes to the EGR valve, as manifold
vacuum would open it at idle and close at higher throttle. Unless Honda made
some other screwy vacuum source that is waht it would ahve to be, which
gives me a good idea of when the EGR valve is open.

> A problem with those older Hondas was grease used inside
> distributor. It would get sticky with age. Then the vacuum
> advance and vacuum retard would not always adjust engine
> timing properly. With extreme care and shop manual, removed,
> disassembled, and greased those points with a special high
> temperature wheel bearing grease (not oil or WD-40). Made
> that Honda into a brand new engine. Worst problem was when
> timing should have relaxed back to idle position, but remained
> advanced as if in high speed operation due to sticky grease.
> Then the engine would knock and buck.

I'm planning on advancing the timing as much as it will take to increase
mileage and perforamnce. While I'm at it I will check that the mechanical
advance is working properly. I'm not sure that I remember there being a
vacuum advance on the distributor though. I will check, and ensure they are
working smoothly.

> Just some ideas on how to find the problem rather than
> curing the symptoms - ie. disconnecting EGR valve to burn
> cylinder valves.
>
> EGR valve should not even be opening when engine is cold.

Well it must have been as it made a difference.. Also, the car no longer
stalls at the first stop in the morning.

> Furthermore, all those hoses, even on the Chevy Nova, were not
> really anti-pollution equipment. Go back to the 60s before
> pollution control was required. All those same hoses, etc
> were on the 1960 engines that were sold as higher mileage
> engines. Those hoses were required so that engine adapted
> better to changing loads. But since MBAs were now top
> management, they wants to call more expensive engines evil -
> and called it anti-pollution equipment.

I don't believe a '69 Nova would have had anything involing a significant
amount of vacuum hoses. It would have had a PCV valve, with most likely a
closed crankcase ventilation system (fill cap vented to the air cleaner); a
vacuum _retard_ in addition to advance; and perhaps a smog pump if it was a
California car.

> Get the vacuum gauge, monitor what those vacuum lines are
> doing when cold, when accelerating, etc. They replace the
> part that would be causing erratic operation. Easy to do with
> a shop manual.

Where do I get a shop manual for an '86 Prelude 1.8? I'd rather get the real
thing than a Haynes or Chiltons.

Cory

> "Bill B. Johnson" wrote:
> > In article <1GXrb.21128$y95.14191@nwrdny01.gnilink.net>, "Cory Dunkle"
> > <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote:
> >> Out of curiosity today I disconnected the EGR valve on my '86
> >> Prelude 1.8 dual carb w/ 5 speed. My good ness what a difference
> >> it made. Drivability when the engine is cold is great, I don't
> >> have to rev it out the wazoo to keep it from shuddering and
> >> bucking anymore. Also, I immediately noticed a huge increase in
> >> power. The thing loves to rev now, I step on the gas and it
> >> really winds up, and throttle response is so crisp and quick.
> >> Before it would accelerate and rev nicely (though not as good
> >> as it does now) until a certain point of throttle opening when
> >> presumably the EGR valve would really start to open up. The car
> >> would then fall flat on it's face and bog down, if I backed off
> >> the throttle it would perk back up. Now I can slam the throttle
> >> down and the thing winds up and keep going.
> >>
> > Cory,
> > I suggest that you buy a NEW EGR valve and try it for a week. It's
> > possible that your old EGR valve was clogged up. If you have a state
> > inspection of any type--make sure you reinstall the EGR valve prior
> > to the inspection. I once had a 1969 Chevy Nova. It ran much better
> > after I removed all of the anti pollution equipment. I would never
> > do it on my 1999 Honda Accord since it runs just great even with all
> > of the anti-pollution equipment. We all should care about our
> > environment.

Re: EGR valve...
 

"w_tom" <w_tom1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3FB13D47.AAE3F84C@hotmail.com...
> EGR valve is closed when doing the things such as idle. If
> disconnecting EGR valve changes engine (such as accelerate
> from idle), then EGR valve remains closed always - which can,
> worst case, result in burned cylinder valves.

Perhaps larger jets would be the cure then.

> Dual carb Honda would be a CVCC engine. Many previous
> owners or mechanics thought they were smarter than the shop
> manual and changed some screw settings on that CVCC carb (its
> more than just a two barrel carburetor). Those settings
> required factory adjustment. IOW those who first did not read
> then made a mess of things. EGR valve would not fix their
> messups.

What is CVCC? Factory settings are not always optimal for max performance or
even necessarily mileage... In fact more often than not you can get better
performance and mileage with some tweaks... The cost is a little more
pollution. I haven't touched the carbs other than to spray them with some
good carb cleaner, which seemed to help the idle a bit.

> EGR valve might be opening prematurely or might not be
> leaking down to permit valve to close - causing your symptoms.
> Best and simple is to buy a plastic tee, some rubber hose, and
> a vacuum gauge. Very little money and very educational. Run
> the car with that hose 'teed' to EGR vacuum line. Watch how
> vacuum changes as car does various actions. No vacuum means
> EGR valve is closed. What EGR valve does under various
> conditions is nicely explained in 1980's Honda shop manuals -
> that also shows how those vacuum lines are controlled.

It would be interesting to see when the EGR valve opens and how much at
under what loads. I'll probably end up getting a sho manual for the car as I
plan to keep it as long as it isn't prohibitively expensive to fix anything.
I would assume it's ported vacuum that goes to the EGR valve, as manifold
vacuum would open it at idle and close at higher throttle. Unless Honda made
some other screwy vacuum source that is waht it would ahve to be, which
gives me a good idea of when the EGR valve is open.

> A problem with those older Hondas was grease used inside
> distributor. It would get sticky with age. Then the vacuum
> advance and vacuum retard would not always adjust engine
> timing properly. With extreme care and shop manual, removed,
> disassembled, and greased those points with a special high
> temperature wheel bearing grease (not oil or WD-40). Made
> that Honda into a brand new engine. Worst problem was when
> timing should have relaxed back to idle position, but remained
> advanced as if in high speed operation due to sticky grease.
> Then the engine would knock and buck.

I'm planning on advancing the timing as much as it will take to increase
mileage and perforamnce. While I'm at it I will check that the mechanical
advance is working properly. I'm not sure that I remember there being a
vacuum advance on the distributor though. I will check, and ensure they are
working smoothly.

> Just some ideas on how to find the problem rather than
> curing the symptoms - ie. disconnecting EGR valve to burn
> cylinder valves.
>
> EGR valve should not even be opening when engine is cold.

Well it must have been as it made a difference.. Also, the car no longer
stalls at the first stop in the morning.

> Furthermore, all those hoses, even on the Chevy Nova, were not
> really anti-pollution equipment. Go back to the 60s before
> pollution control was required. All those same hoses, etc
> were on the 1960 engines that were sold as higher mileage
> engines. Those hoses were required so that engine adapted
> better to changing loads. But since MBAs were now top
> management, they wants to call more expensive engines evil -
> and called it anti-pollution equipment.

I don't believe a '69 Nova would have had anything involing a significant
amount of vacuum hoses. It would have had a PCV valve, with most likely a
closed crankcase ventilation system (fill cap vented to the air cleaner); a
vacuum _retard_ in addition to advance; and perhaps a smog pump if it was a
California car.

> Get the vacuum gauge, monitor what those vacuum lines are
> doing when cold, when accelerating, etc. They replace the
> part that would be causing erratic operation. Easy to do with
> a shop manual.

Where do I get a shop manual for an '86 Prelude 1.8? I'd rather get the real
thing than a Haynes or Chiltons.

Cory

> "Bill B. Johnson" wrote:
> > In article <1GXrb.21128$y95.14191@nwrdny01.gnilink.net>, "Cory Dunkle"
> > <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote:
> >> Out of curiosity today I disconnected the EGR valve on my '86
> >> Prelude 1.8 dual carb w/ 5 speed. My good ness what a difference
> >> it made. Drivability when the engine is cold is great, I don't
> >> have to rev it out the wazoo to keep it from shuddering and
> >> bucking anymore. Also, I immediately noticed a huge increase in
> >> power. The thing loves to rev now, I step on the gas and it
> >> really winds up, and throttle response is so crisp and quick.
> >> Before it would accelerate and rev nicely (though not as good
> >> as it does now) until a certain point of throttle opening when
> >> presumably the EGR valve would really start to open up. The car
> >> would then fall flat on it's face and bog down, if I backed off
> >> the throttle it would perk back up. Now I can slam the throttle
> >> down and the thing winds up and keep going.
> >>
> > Cory,
> > I suggest that you buy a NEW EGR valve and try it for a week. It's
> > possible that your old EGR valve was clogged up. If you have a state
> > inspection of any type--make sure you reinstall the EGR valve prior
> > to the inspection. I once had a 1969 Chevy Nova. It ran much better
> > after I removed all of the anti pollution equipment. I would never
> > do it on my 1999 Honda Accord since it runs just great even with all
> > of the anti-pollution equipment. We all should care about our
> > environment.

Re: EGR valve...
 

"w_tom" <w_tom1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3FB13D47.AAE3F84C@hotmail.com...
> EGR valve is closed when doing the things such as idle. If
> disconnecting EGR valve changes engine (such as accelerate
> from idle), then EGR valve remains closed always - which can,
> worst case, result in burned cylinder valves.

Perhaps larger jets would be the cure then.

> Dual carb Honda would be a CVCC engine. Many previous
> owners or mechanics thought they were smarter than the shop
> manual and changed some screw settings on that CVCC carb (its
> more than just a two barrel carburetor). Those settings
> required factory adjustment. IOW those who first did not read
> then made a mess of things. EGR valve would not fix their
> messups.

What is CVCC? Factory settings are not always optimal for max performance or
even necessarily mileage... In fact more often than not you can get better
performance and mileage with some tweaks... The cost is a little more
pollution. I haven't touched the carbs other than to spray them with some
good carb cleaner, which seemed to help the idle a bit.

> EGR valve might be opening prematurely or might not be
> leaking down to permit valve to close - causing your symptoms.
> Best and simple is to buy a plastic tee, some rubber hose, and
> a vacuum gauge. Very little money and very educational. Run
> the car with that hose 'teed' to EGR vacuum line. Watch how
> vacuum changes as car does various actions. No vacuum means
> EGR valve is closed. What EGR valve does under various
> conditions is nicely explained in 1980's Honda shop manuals -
> that also shows how those vacuum lines are controlled.

It would be interesting to see when the EGR valve opens and how much at
under what loads. I'll probably end up getting a sho manual for the car as I
plan to keep it as long as it isn't prohibitively expensive to fix anything.
I would assume it's ported vacuum that goes to the EGR valve, as manifold
vacuum would open it at idle and close at higher throttle. Unless Honda made
some other screwy vacuum source that is waht it would ahve to be, which
gives me a good idea of when the EGR valve is open.

> A problem with those older Hondas was grease used inside
> distributor. It would get sticky with age. Then the vacuum
> advance and vacuum retard would not always adjust engine
> timing properly. With extreme care and shop manual, removed,
> disassembled, and greased those points with a special high
> temperature wheel bearing grease (not oil or WD-40). Made
> that Honda into a brand new engine. Worst problem was when
> timing should have relaxed back to idle position, but remained
> advanced as if in high speed operation due to sticky grease.
> Then the engine would knock and buck.

I'm planning on advancing the timing as much as it will take to increase
mileage and perforamnce. While I'm at it I will check that the mechanical
advance is working properly. I'm not sure that I remember there being a
vacuum advance on the distributor though. I will check, and ensure they are
working smoothly.

> Just some ideas on how to find the problem rather than
> curing the symptoms - ie. disconnecting EGR valve to burn
> cylinder valves.
>
> EGR valve should not even be opening when engine is cold.

Well it must have been as it made a difference.. Also, the car no longer
stalls at the first stop in the morning.

> Furthermore, all those hoses, even on the Chevy Nova, were not
> really anti-pollution equipment. Go back to the 60s before
> pollution control was required. All those same hoses, etc
> were on the 1960 engines that were sold as higher mileage
> engines. Those hoses were required so that engine adapted
> better to changing loads. But since MBAs were now top
> management, they wants to call more expensive engines evil -
> and called it anti-pollution equipment.

I don't believe a '69 Nova would have had anything involing a significant
amount of vacuum hoses. It would have had a PCV valve, with most likely a
closed crankcase ventilation system (fill cap vented to the air cleaner); a
vacuum _retard_ in addition to advance; and perhaps a smog pump if it was a
California car.

> Get the vacuum gauge, monitor what those vacuum lines are
> doing when cold, when accelerating, etc. They replace the
> part that would be causing erratic operation. Easy to do with
> a shop manual.

Where do I get a shop manual for an '86 Prelude 1.8? I'd rather get the real
thing than a Haynes or Chiltons.

Cory

> "Bill B. Johnson" wrote:
> > In article <1GXrb.21128$y95.14191@nwrdny01.gnilink.net>, "Cory Dunkle"
> > <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote:
> >> Out of curiosity today I disconnected the EGR valve on my '86
> >> Prelude 1.8 dual carb w/ 5 speed. My good ness what a difference
> >> it made. Drivability when the engine is cold is great, I don't
> >> have to rev it out the wazoo to keep it from shuddering and
> >> bucking anymore. Also, I immediately noticed a huge increase in
> >> power. The thing loves to rev now, I step on the gas and it
> >> really winds up, and throttle response is so crisp and quick.
> >> Before it would accelerate and rev nicely (though not as good
> >> as it does now) until a certain point of throttle opening when
> >> presumably the EGR valve would really start to open up. The car
> >> would then fall flat on it's face and bog down, if I backed off
> >> the throttle it would perk back up. Now I can slam the throttle
> >> down and the thing winds up and keep going.
> >>
> > Cory,
> > I suggest that you buy a NEW EGR valve and try it for a week. It's
> > possible that your old EGR valve was clogged up. If you have a state
> > inspection of any type--make sure you reinstall the EGR valve prior
> > to the inspection. I once had a 1969 Chevy Nova. It ran much better
> > after I removed all of the anti pollution equipment. I would never
> > do it on my 1999 Honda Accord since it runs just great even with all
> > of the anti-pollution equipment. We all should care about our
> > environment.

Re: EGR valve...
 

"Bill B. Johnson" <billbjohnson555@nospamhotmail.com> wrote in message
news:billbjohnson555-1111030937280001@pm5-broad-123.snlo.dialup.fix.net...
> In article <1GXrb.21128$y95.14191@nwrdny01.gnilink.net>, "Cory Dunkle"
> <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> > Out of curiosity today I disconnected the EGR valve on my '86 Prelude
1.8
> > dual carb w/ 5 speed. My good ness what a difference it made.
Drivability
> > when the engine is cold is great, I don't have to rev it out the wazoo
to
> > keep it from shuddering and bucking anymore. Also, I immediately noticed
a
> > huge increase in power. The thing loves to rev now, I step on the gas
and it
> > really winds up, and throttle response is so crisp and quick. Before it
> > would accelerate and rev nicely (though not as good as it does now)
until a
> > certain point of throttle opening when presumably the EGR valve would
really
> > start to open up. The car would then fall flat on it's face and bog
down, if
> > I backed off the throttle it would perk back up. Now I can slam the
throttle
> > down and the thing winds up and keep going.
> >
> > I guess what I'm getting at is that it feels like a whole new car. I
would
> > prefer to have the EGR valve connected to reduce emissions, but not
unless
> > the car will run right with it connected. I think I'm going to try
taking it
> > off and cleaning it out to see if that helps at all. If not then I'll
leave
> > it as it is now. So does it sound like the EGR is working properly? It
> > definitely is 'working' as I can tell a huge difference when it's
connected.
> > The car will now push you back into the seat if you get on it, I love
the
> > performance. Also I expect mileage to increase, as I've heard others say
> > that when their EGR valve broke or they disabled it their mileage
increased
> > a good bit. I would think the increase in mileage from a better running
> > engine would help offset the increased pollution. Anyway, let me know
what
> > you guys think about keeping the EGR disabled, and if there is any way
to
> > get the engine running well with it connected.
> >
> > Cory
>
> Cory,
> I suggest that you buy a NEW EGR valve and try it for a week. It's
> possible that your old EGR valve was clogged up. If you have a state
> inspection of any type--make sure you reinstall the EGR valve prior to the
> inspection. I once had a 1969 Chevy Nova. It ran much better after I
> removed all of the anti pollution equipment. I would never do it on my
> 1999 Honda Accord since it runs just great even with all of the
> anti-pollution equipment. We all should care about our environment.

I care about the environment, but my wallet comes first. I'm already doing
the environment a huge favor by switching to a sub-subcompact Honda 4 banger
with overdrive from the '67 and '68 Galaxie 500s I used to drive every day
400 miles/week getting 14-17 MPG, ~15 MPG average. I want the car to run
optimally, get great mileage, and have enough power to be safe to drive. Now
that I removed the EGR valve it meets the first and third of those, and the
mileage is good enough at nearly 30 MPG. Maybe more since disabling the EGR
valve.

I got the car for $300... It is an sub-subcompact econo-box I bought purely
for utility getting from point A to point B safely with good mileage. The
plan is to put no more money into it than it needs to pass inspection and
keep running, unless perhaps it is something that will increase mileage. I
don't mind putting labor into it, but no money unless I absolutely have to.
I am planning on removing and cleaning the EGR valve. I want to see if I can
get it working properly, as I would like to be as 'green' as is practical.
As I said though, I'm leaps and bounds above my '67 and '68 Fords are as far
as pollution per mile. The Fords have over two and a half times the
displacement of the Honda, and virtually no pollutions controls (yeh, PCV.
LOL), not to mention weigh twice as much and have automatic transmissions
with no overdrive. I'm helping the environment plenty even if this Honda had
no pollution controls. Anyway, I would like to keep the pollution controls
enabled, but not at any cost to my wallet or to the car running properly and
safely. Hopefully cleaning it out will help.

Cory

Re: EGR valve...
 

"Bill B. Johnson" <billbjohnson555@nospamhotmail.com> wrote in message
news:billbjohnson555-1111030937280001@pm5-broad-123.snlo.dialup.fix.net...
> In article <1GXrb.21128$y95.14191@nwrdny01.gnilink.net>, "Cory Dunkle"
> <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> > Out of curiosity today I disconnected the EGR valve on my '86 Prelude
1.8
> > dual carb w/ 5 speed. My good ness what a difference it made.
Drivability
> > when the engine is cold is great, I don't have to rev it out the wazoo
to
> > keep it from shuddering and bucking anymore. Also, I immediately noticed
a
> > huge increase in power. The thing loves to rev now, I step on the gas
and it
> > really winds up, and throttle response is so crisp and quick. Before it
> > would accelerate and rev nicely (though not as good as it does now)
until a
> > certain point of throttle opening when presumably the EGR valve would
really
> > start to open up. The car would then fall flat on it's face and bog
down, if
> > I backed off the throttle it would perk back up. Now I can slam the
throttle
> > down and the thing winds up and keep going.
> >
> > I guess what I'm getting at is that it feels like a whole new car. I
would
> > prefer to have the EGR valve connected to reduce emissions, but not
unless
> > the car will run right with it connected. I think I'm going to try
taking it
> > off and cleaning it out to see if that helps at all. If not then I'll
leave
> > it as it is now. So does it sound like the EGR is working properly? It
> > definitely is 'working' as I can tell a huge difference when it's
connected.
> > The car will now push you back into the seat if you get on it, I love
the
> > performance. Also I expect mileage to increase, as I've heard others say
> > that when their EGR valve broke or they disabled it their mileage
increased
> > a good bit. I would think the increase in mileage from a better running
> > engine would help offset the increased pollution. Anyway, let me know
what
> > you guys think about keeping the EGR disabled, and if there is any way
to
> > get the engine running well with it connected.
> >
> > Cory
>
> Cory,
> I suggest that you buy a NEW EGR valve and try it for a week. It's
> possible that your old EGR valve was clogged up. If you have a state
> inspection of any type--make sure you reinstall the EGR valve prior to the
> inspection. I once had a 1969 Chevy Nova. It ran much better after I
> removed all of the anti pollution equipment. I would never do it on my
> 1999 Honda Accord since it runs just great even with all of the
> anti-pollution equipment. We all should care about our environment.

I care about the environment, but my wallet comes first. I'm already doing
the environment a huge favor by switching to a sub-subcompact Honda 4 banger
with overdrive from the '67 and '68 Galaxie 500s I used to drive every day
400 miles/week getting 14-17 MPG, ~15 MPG average. I want the car to run
optimally, get great mileage, and have enough power to be safe to drive. Now
that I removed the EGR valve it meets the first and third of those, and the
mileage is good enough at nearly 30 MPG. Maybe more since disabling the EGR
valve.

I got the car for $300... It is an sub-subcompact econo-box I bought purely
for utility getting from point A to point B safely with good mileage. The
plan is to put no more money into it than it needs to pass inspection and
keep running, unless perhaps it is something that will increase mileage. I
don't mind putting labor into it, but no money unless I absolutely have to.
I am planning on removing and cleaning the EGR valve. I want to see if I can
get it working properly, as I would like to be as 'green' as is practical.
As I said though, I'm leaps and bounds above my '67 and '68 Fords are as far
as pollution per mile. The Fords have over two and a half times the
displacement of the Honda, and virtually no pollutions controls (yeh, PCV.
LOL), not to mention weigh twice as much and have automatic transmissions
with no overdrive. I'm helping the environment plenty even if this Honda had
no pollution controls. Anyway, I would like to keep the pollution controls
enabled, but not at any cost to my wallet or to the car running properly and
safely. Hopefully cleaning it out will help.

Cory