Electrical Problem w/ my 89 Honda Accord
Hi and thanks in advance for any help,
My problem is my battery is no longer being charged while I drive the car. I've had the battery tested and it's fine, the alternator has been tested and it's fine. Could the voltage regulator be bad? I would be able to at least start the car for a period of ~24 hours if I drove it for about an hour each day. Now, it won't start at all once I shut the car off which leads me to believe that the battery is no longer being charged at all while I'm driving. After I jump the car it runs great. Thanks for any help. -Jason |
Re: Electrical Problem w/ my 89 Honda Accord
jrquiz@yahoo.com wrote:
> Hi and thanks in advance for any help, > My problem is my battery is no longer being charged while I drive the > car. I've had the battery tested and it's fine, the alternator has > been tested and it's fine. Could the voltage regulator be bad? I > would be able to at least start the car for a period of ~24 hours if I > drove it for about an hour each day. Now, it won't start at all once I > shut the car off which leads me to believe that the battery is no > longer being charged at all while I'm driving. After I jump the car it > runs great. > Thanks for any help. > -Jason It may not be related to your battery if the car is not starting but who told you the car is charging ok? What sort of voltage do you measure across the battery with the car running? It should be 14.5 V. Turn the head lights on. The voltage should not appeciably drop. Turn the car off but leave the head lights on. The voltage may drop to about 12.5 volts or so but should not drop appreciably below that voltage. If it does drop and the car does not start, my first suspect would be the battery or the wires to the battery (including ground). If it does not drop yet the car does not start, it could be starter related. Perhaps you have a bad connection from the battery to the engine. See if hooking a booster cable (negative side only -- leave positive hanging) from the battery (-) to a large hunk of metal on the engine helps the starting process. If it now starts, you have a bad contact in your ground. Also check the wire from the battery (+) to the starter - it could be that it has corroded contacts. Remco |
Re: Electrical Problem w/ my 89 Honda Accord
"Remco" <whybcuz@yahoo.com> wrote
> jrquiz@yahoo.com wrote: > > Hi and thanks in advance for any help, > > My problem is my battery is no longer being charged while I drive the > > car. I've had the battery tested and it's fine, the alternator has > > been tested and it's fine. Could the voltage regulator be bad? I > > would be able to at least start the car for a period of ~24 hours if I > > drove it for about an hour each day. Now, it won't start at all once I > > shut the car off which leads me to believe that the battery is no > > longer being charged at all while I'm driving. After I jump the car it > > runs great. > > Thanks for any help. > > -Jason > > It may not be related to your battery if the car is not starting but > who told you the car is charging ok? > > What sort of voltage do you measure across the battery with the car > running? It should be 14.5 V. Turn the head lights on. The voltage > should not appeciably drop. > > Turn the car off but leave the head lights on. The voltage may drop to > about 12.5 volts or so but should not drop appreciably below that > voltage. > > If it does drop and the car does not start, my first suspect would be > the battery or the wires to the battery (including ground). The above is absolutely where I would start. Also, how old is the battery, in years and miles? How many times have you jumped it now? Jumping does reduce battery life. A bad battery will reduce the alternator life. www.autozone.com has a manual specific to your car free online. It should have directions similar to Remco's for checking the battery and charging system, which should be like the following, on page 10, for a 91 Accord. http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/m...ls/AccordManua l/400/16-52.pdf |
Re: Electrical Problem w/ my 89 Honda Accord
Thanks again for all the advice...
I measured the voltage across the battery with the car started and it measures about 15v. With the car turned off it measures about 10v and just slightly under that when the headlights are turned off. I did notice some corrosion around the positive terminal so cleaned all of that up. However, after driving the car around for a bit to get it good and charged it still won't start when I turn off the engine. I just get what amounts to a repeated "clicking" noise. Is this the sign of a bad starter? Also, I can't verify the age or milage of the battery. However, I have jump started the car many times (20+) over the last couple of months. |
Re: Electrical Problem w/ my 89 Honda Accord
<jrquiz@yahoo.com> wrote
> Thanks again for all the advice... > > I measured the voltage across the battery with the car started and it > measures about 15v. With the car turned off it measures about 10v That 'turned off' voltage sucks eggs. Replace this battery. > Also, I can't verify the age or milage of the battery. However, I have > jump started the car many times (20+) over the last couple of months. That sucks scrambled eggs. Replace the battery. Report back. Interstate is a fine brand and may be what Honda is currently using. My dealer's prices are /very/ competitive with places like Firestone for Interstate batteries. (I sense a trend in this direction for all Honda parts, as a matter of fact. Internet competition may be working!) IIRC, a few months ago my dealer wanted $65 for an interstate battery with a five or seven year guarantee. Very good price for what's said to be a very good battery. (My 91 Civic's latest is an Interstate, for which I paid 83 something *&^% dollars at Firestone 1.5 years ago.) |
Re: Electrical Problem w/ my 89 Honda Accord
Elle wrote:
> <jrquiz@yahoo.com> wrote > > Thanks again for all the advice... > > > > I measured the voltage across the battery with the car > started and it > > measures about 15v. With the car turned off it measures > about 10v > > That 'turned off' voltage sucks eggs. Replace this battery. > > > Also, I can't verify the age or milage of the battery. > However, I have > > jump started the car many times (20+) over the last couple > of months. > > That sucks scrambled eggs. Replace the battery. Report back. > > Interstate is a fine brand and may be what Honda is > currently using. My dealer's prices are /very/ competitive > with places like Firestone for Interstate batteries. (I > sense a trend in this direction for all Honda parts, as a > matter of fact. Internet competition may be working!) > > IIRC, a few months ago my dealer wanted $65 for an > interstate battery with a five or seven year guarantee. Very > good price for what's said to be a very good battery. (My 91 > Civic's latest is an Interstate, for which I paid 83 > something *&^% dollars at Firestone 1.5 years ago.) I agree that the battery looks bad but there is another remote possibility: You should have a lot more than 10V on the battery with the car off off unless something is drawing some major current. That would be almost hard to believe, but let's make sure: To alleviate that as a possibility, first put on some safety glasses - you don't want to get hurt. You won't get electrocuted or anything, but I am just afraid that if it indeed draws that much current, it will arc big time. Arcing can cause hot bits of metal to spark off the connector and you don't want that hitting your eyes. Again, this is an unlikely scenario but better safe than sorry. Tun the car a little while, just enough to slightly charge the battery. Then shut it off. Very quickly disconnect your battery and measure the voltage (quickly, because we want to see if that battery retained a charge). It should be 12V or so. Even a bad battery may show 12V without any load on it. Reconnect it. If you see a nice big arc (you'll know what this looks like), an appreciable amount of current is being drawn. That means something in your car is not turning off, drawing a lot of current. The battery is most likely not the primary problem. It may still need to be replaced after you fix your problem because they do not like to be totally discharged. If you don't see an arc, nothing is being drawn so your battery is most likely bad. Report back with your findings. Remco |
Re: Electrical Problem w/ my 89 Honda Accord
jrquiz@yahoo.com wrote:
> Thanks again for all the advice... > > I measured the voltage across the battery with the car started and it > measures about 15v. With the car turned off it measures about 10v and > just slightly under that when the headlights are turned off. I did > notice some corrosion around the positive terminal so cleaned all of > that up. However, after driving the car around for a bit to get it > good and charged it still won't start when I turn off the engine. I > just get what amounts to a repeated "clicking" noise. Is this the sign > of a bad starter? > > Also, I can't verify the age or milage of the battery. However, I have > jump started the car many times (20+) over the last couple of months. Btw, in your case that clicking is most likely due to the battery's voltage being too low. You turn the key, the relay clicks on, the starter draws current bringing the voltage even lower causing the relay to unclick. The current draw drops causing the voltage to rise, the relay clicks, etc, etc. Your starter is most likely just fine. |
Re: Electrical Problem w/ my 89 Honda Accord
Have you ever seen a battery blow up? I have and just in this situation.
With the lack of knowledge shown take it to a mechanic who knows what he is doing and have it repaired correctly. Battery acid in the face is not pleasant and pulling a cable while it drawing excessive current will do just that. Gas is generated and the spark will cause to explode. .... "Remco" <whybcuz@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:1136840565.635611.272090@o13g2000cwo.googlegr oups.com... > Elle wrote: >> <jrquiz@yahoo.com> wrote >> > Thanks again for all the advice... >> > >> > I measured the voltage across the battery with the car >> started and it >> > measures about 15v. With the car turned off it measures >> about 10v >> >> That 'turned off' voltage sucks eggs. Replace this battery. >> >> > Also, I can't verify the age or milage of the battery. >> However, I have >> > jump started the car many times (20+) over the last couple >> of months. >> >> That sucks scrambled eggs. Replace the battery. Report back. >> >> Interstate is a fine brand and may be what Honda is >> currently using. My dealer's prices are /very/ competitive >> with places like Firestone for Interstate batteries. (I >> sense a trend in this direction for all Honda parts, as a >> matter of fact. Internet competition may be working!) >> >> IIRC, a few months ago my dealer wanted $65 for an >> interstate battery with a five or seven year guarantee. Very >> good price for what's said to be a very good battery. (My 91 >> Civic's latest is an Interstate, for which I paid 83 >> something *&^% dollars at Firestone 1.5 years ago.) > > I agree that the battery looks bad but there is another remote > possibility: > > You should have a lot more than 10V on the battery with the car off off > unless something is drawing some major current. That would be almost > hard to believe, but let's make sure: > > To alleviate that as a possibility, first put on some safety glasses - > you don't want to get hurt. > You won't get electrocuted or anything, but I am just afraid that if it > indeed draws that much current, it will arc big time. Arcing can cause > hot bits of metal to spark off the connector and you don't want that > hitting your eyes. > Again, this is an unlikely scenario but better safe than sorry. > > Tun the car a little while, just enough to slightly charge the battery. > > Then shut it off. > > Very quickly disconnect your battery and measure the voltage (quickly, > because we want to see if that battery retained a charge). It should be > 12V or so. Even a bad battery may show 12V without any load on it. > > Reconnect it. > > If you see a nice big arc (you'll know what this looks like), an > appreciable amount of current is being drawn. That means something in > your car is not turning off, drawing a lot of current. The battery is > most likely not the primary problem. It may still need to be replaced > after you fix your problem because they do not like to be totally > discharged. > > If you don't see an arc, nothing is being drawn so your battery is most > likely bad. > > Report back with your findings. > > Remco > |
Re: Electrical Problem w/ my 89 Honda Accord
Thanks everyone for the help. I jumped the car and took it over to an
AutoZone. They ran a test and the battery did come up bad this go around. Previously, I had the battery tested at a Walmart and an O'Reilly and both times the battery came up fine. But after testing it myslef today based on advice from here it did seem that the voltage was low. At any rate, after I put in the new battery it started right up. However, I've replaced the battery before in this car <never with a new one> and evnetually it would fail me. So, this battery is brand new and I will keep an eye on the problem and let you all know if I have continued problems. Thanks again for everyone's help. Time now to head back up to college. -Jason |
Re: Electrical Problem w/ my 89 Honda Accord
"jrquiz@yahoo.com" <jrquiz@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:1136838659.579895.49210@g14g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com: > Thanks again for all the advice... > > I measured the voltage across the battery with the car started and it > measures about 15v. With the car turned off it measures about 10v and > just slightly under that when the headlights are turned off. I did > notice some corrosion around the positive terminal so cleaned all of > that up. However, after driving the car around for a bit to get it > good and charged it still won't start when I turn off the engine. I > just get what amounts to a repeated "clicking" noise. Is this the sign > of a bad starter? > > Also, I can't verify the age or milage of the battery. However, I have > jump started the car many times (20+) over the last couple of months. > > Your starter -could- have eroded contacts inside the solenoid. Some Honda starters solenoids can be replaced,others(Denso) require replacing the entire starter,or replacing the contacts. (www.nationsauto.com is where I got the contact parts kit I used on my Integra Denso starter) -- Jim Yanik jyanik at kua.net |
Re: Electrical Problem w/ my 89 Honda Accord
<jrquiz@yahoo.com> wrote
> Thanks everyone for the help. I jumped the car and took it over to an > AutoZone. They ran a test and the battery did come up bad this go > around. Previously, I had the battery tested at a Walmart and an > O'Reilly and both times the battery came up fine. But after testing it > myslef today based on advice from here it did seem that the voltage was > low. At any rate, after I put in the new battery it started right up. > However, I've replaced the battery before in this car <never with a new > one> and evnetually it would fail me. So, this battery is brand new > and I will keep an eye on the problem and let you all know if I have > continued problems. I presume the alternator warning light on the dash has never come on in all this, or you would have mentioned it. I don't know what you mean by "eventually," but I wouldn't dismiss the problem being simply your choice of used batteries and non-OEM ones. The new battery might do the trick, but I agree you are right to remain vigilant. You might want to check its voltage, running w/o headlights, running w/headlights, and off and monitor this a while. It's a simple enough check that, while not conclusive, might tell you something. Also, ISTM all that running the batteries down to low charge may have taken a toll on the alternator, so be prepared for that being a problem soon. You really do want to keep those battery terminals clean. They're worth checking at least once a month for the immediate future. I just use baking soda and water. Some here recommend a certain sealant, whose name or description I don't remember, too. Ask at Autozone, and they'll probably know. Good luck. |
Re: Electrical Problem w/ my 89 Honda Accord
Woody wrote: > Have you ever seen a battery blow up? I have and just in this situation. > With the lack of knowledge shown take it to a mechanic who knows what he is > doing and have it repaired correctly. Battery acid in the face is not > pleasant and pulling a cable while it drawing excessive current will do just > that. Gas is generated and the spark will cause to explode. .... > I am merely suggesting disconnecting/reconnecting it. I am not saying it definitely is a possibility, just that it is a _remote_ possibility. Disconnecting it is a good thing, just to see what state the battery is in. > > "Remco" <whybcuz@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:1136840565.635611.272090@o13g2000cwo.googlegr oups.com... > > Elle wrote: > >> <jrquiz@yahoo.com> wrote > >> > Thanks again for all the advice... > >> > > >> > I measured the voltage across the battery with the car > >> started and it > >> > measures about 15v. With the car turned off it measures > >> about 10v > >> > >> That 'turned off' voltage sucks eggs. Replace this battery. > >> > >> > Also, I can't verify the age or milage of the battery. > >> However, I have > >> > jump started the car many times (20+) over the last couple > >> of months. > >> > >> That sucks scrambled eggs. Replace the battery. Report back. > >> > >> Interstate is a fine brand and may be what Honda is > >> currently using. My dealer's prices are /very/ competitive > >> with places like Firestone for Interstate batteries. (I > >> sense a trend in this direction for all Honda parts, as a > >> matter of fact. Internet competition may be working!) > >> > >> IIRC, a few months ago my dealer wanted $65 for an > >> interstate battery with a five or seven year guarantee. Very > >> good price for what's said to be a very good battery. (My 91 > >> Civic's latest is an Interstate, for which I paid 83 > >> something *&^% dollars at Firestone 1.5 years ago.) > > > > I agree that the battery looks bad but there is another remote > > possibility: > > > > You should have a lot more than 10V on the battery with the car off off > > unless something is drawing some major current. That would be almost > > hard to believe, but let's make sure: > > > > To alleviate that as a possibility, first put on some safety glasses - > > you don't want to get hurt. > > You won't get electrocuted or anything, but I am just afraid that if it > > indeed draws that much current, it will arc big time. Arcing can cause > > hot bits of metal to spark off the connector and you don't want that > > hitting your eyes. > > Again, this is an unlikely scenario but better safe than sorry. > > > > Tun the car a little while, just enough to slightly charge the battery. > > > > Then shut it off. > > > > Very quickly disconnect your battery and measure the voltage (quickly, > > because we want to see if that battery retained a charge). It should be > > 12V or so. Even a bad battery may show 12V without any load on it. > > > > Reconnect it. > > > > If you see a nice big arc (you'll know what this looks like), an > > appreciable amount of current is being drawn. That means something in > > your car is not turning off, drawing a lot of current. The battery is > > most likely not the primary problem. It may still need to be replaced > > after you fix your problem because they do not like to be totally > > discharged. > > > > If you don't see an arc, nothing is being drawn so your battery is most > > likely bad. > > > > Report back with your findings. > > > > Remco > > |
Jumping does reduce [the jumpped car's] battery life.
> Date: Mon, Jan 9 2006 8:11 pm > From: "Elle" snip > Jumping does reduce [the jumpped car's] battery life. Very interesting. Any idea why this would be so? .. |
A bad battery will reduce the alternator life
> Date: Mon, Jan 9 2006 8:11 pm > From: "Elle" snip > A bad battery will reduce the alternator life. Can you be more specific? .. |
Re: Electrical Problem w/ my 89 Honda Accord
> Date: Mon, Jan 9 2006 12:30 pm
> From: "jrquiz@yahoo.com" > > Thanks again for all the advice... > > I measured the voltage across the battery with the > car started and it measures about 15v. With the car > turned off it measures about 10v and just slightly > under that when the headlights are turned off. I > did notice some corrosion around the positive > terminal so cleaned all of that up. However, after > driving the car around for a bit to get it good and > charged it still won't start when I turn off the > engine. I just get what amounts to a repeated > "clicking" noise. Elle replied: > Date: Mon, Jan 9 2006 8:42 pm > From: "Elle" > > > Date: Mon, Jan 9 2006 12:30 pm > > From: "jrquiz@yahoo.com" > > > > Thanks again for all the advice... > > > > I measured the voltage across the battery with the > > car started and it measures about 15v. With the car > > turned off it measures about 10v > > That 'turned off' voltage sucks eggs. Replace this > battery. Notice that Elle omits this very revealing information, > I did notice some corrosion around the positive > terminal so cleaned all of that up. However, after > driving the car around for a bit to get it good and > charged it still won't start when I turn off the > engine. I just get what amounts to a repeated > "clicking" noise. The "10 V" that cause sucking eggs are in disagreement with a battery test, so the important question is, "Where exactly was the voltage measured?" The inquirer, we can tell, is ignorant about matters electricity. He needs help. Add to this the the other information the inquirer had provided, like both the battery and the alternator tested fine, and the proper diagnosis is "weak connection." The probability is very high that cleaning the terminal and the clamp (this involves taking off the clamp and, if necessary, removing corrosion from the contact surfaces) would have solved the problem, and that a new battery was unneeded. It is disturbing that experts find it easier to suggest replacing parts instead of using their brains to find the causes of the problems. To make connection problems less likely, particularly at the battery terminals, apply vaseline liberally. And make sure that the clamp grips the terminal tightly - if it is too large thin wires from a multistrand cable can be inserted between terminal and clamp. .. |
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