I am driving a 1998's Honda Accord LX. In December 2007, the engine
malfunction indicator was on so I took it to a local Honda dealer where
they replaced a catalytic converter. However, after few weeks, the light
was on again. I thought that I might have a defect fuel cap so I bought a
new one by Stanley from Wal-Mart. The light went off after 3 trips.
However, the light was on and off for few times. In May, 2008, I took the
car to Meineke and was given a code P1456. The Meineke reset the light
(the light was turned off) and told me to go to the Honda dealer for
help. I did and the dealer did the emission test and other tests with no
problems at all. However, because the light was turned off by Meineke,
the Honda dealer told me to bring it back to them when the right was on.
I was not charged but I bought a genuine Honda fuel cap from the dealer
just to make sure the fuel cap does not cause the problem.
Today, June 9, 2008, the light was on again and I took my car back to the
Honda dealer. I was issued the same code P1456 and received the same
tests. Once again, the dealer did not find any problems. I was charged
$98.67 this time. The deal told me to bring it back when the light is on.
Here are my questions. When the light is on, it should indicate some
problems. When tests do not show any problems, the light should be off. I
am wondering whether the dealer has the ability to detect the problems at
all. I am also wondering that I may be charged again and again whenever
the light is on and I take it to the dealer.
I know it is a 10 year-old car. I do not have any plan to replace it
because of my financial situation. I would appreciate if you can give
suggestions.
Thanks.

Lee

 

<@ .net (Lee)> wrote
>I am driving a 1998's Honda Accord LX.
snip
> Today, June 9, 2008, the light was on again and I took my
> car back to the
> Honda dealer. I was issued the same code P1456 and
> received the same
> tests. Once again, the dealer did not find any problems. I
> was charged
> $98.67 this time. The deal told me to bring it back when
> the light is on.
> Here are my questions. When the light is on, it should
> indicate some
> problems. When tests do not show any problems, the light
> should be off.

Start using Autozone to read the codes. They charge nothing.
Buy a jar of Goop or something to keep them in business.

The system keeps the light on once a problem starts, even if
it then goes away. It's designed with the philosophy that
changing operating conditions yada can cause a problem to go
away until the next time the operating condition that
triggered the MIL recurs. So one is supposed to investigate
the cause.

P1456 comes up most often from an improperly installed gas
cap, as it sounds like you are learning.

Do you have an owner's manual? Read your owner's manual for
the exact instructions on installing the gas cap. Note that
the manual says to tighten the cap until it clicks. The
manual also says it takes "three trips" to turn the MIL off
once it has lit and the fuel cap is properly tightened.

For an owner's manual, see
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/logon.asp. On the left,
click on "Owner's Manuals." Follow the pointers. Once you
arrive at the pdf file, it may appear that only one page has
come up. In fact, page numbers that are highlighted within
the pdf file are links on which you can click to take you to
the page. Also, in the upper right hand corner of any white
page look for an arrow. Click the right arrow to get to the
next page. Lastly, pressing "Ctrl-A" will permit easier
reading of some of the pages at this site.

Here is the key for the codes for your car:
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troub.../bl_obd_14.htm

 

"Elle" <honda.lioness@spamnocox.net> wrote in
news:UFc3k.5098$yi.4181@newsfe13.lga:

>
>
><@ .net (Lee)> wrote
>>I am driving a 1998's Honda Accord LX.
> snip
>> Today, June 9, 2008, the light was on again and I took my
>> car back to the
>> Honda dealer. I was issued the same code P1456 and
>> received the same
>> tests. Once again, the dealer did not find any problems. I
>> was charged
>> $98.67 this time. The deal told me to bring it back when
>> the light is on.
>> Here are my questions. When the light is on, it should
>> indicate some
>> problems. When tests do not show any problems, the light
>> should be off.
>
> Start using Autozone to read the codes. They charge nothing.
> Buy a jar of Goop or something to keep them in business.
>
> The system keeps the light on once a problem starts, even if
> it then goes away. It's designed with the philosophy that
> changing operating conditions yada can cause a problem to go
> away until the next time the operating condition that
> triggered the MIL recurs. So one is supposed to investigate
> the cause.
>
> P1456 comes up most often from an improperly installed gas
> cap, as it sounds like you are learning.
>
> Do you have an owner's manual? Read your owner's manual for
> the exact instructions on installing the gas cap. Note that
> the manual says to tighten the cap until it clicks. The
> manual also says it takes "three trips" to turn the MIL off
> once it has lit and the fuel cap is properly tightened.
>
> For an owner's manual, see
> https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/logon.asp. On the left,
> click on "Owner's Manuals." Follow the pointers. Once you
> arrive at the pdf file, it may appear that only one page has
> come up. In fact, page numbers that are highlighted within
> the pdf file are links on which you can click to take you to
> the page. Also, in the upper right hand corner of any white
> page look for an arrow. Click the right arrow to get to the
> next page. Lastly, pressing "Ctrl-A" will permit easier
> reading of some of the pages at this site.
>
> Here is the key for the codes for your car:
> http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troub.../bl_obd_14.htm
>
>
>

maybe he has a bad hose in the fuel tank area? Or a crack in the filler
pipe.

how DO they detect a evap leak in "the fuel tank area"?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote
> maybe he has a bad hose in the fuel tank area? Or a crack
> in the filler
> pipe.

These are always possibilities. I was trying to emphasize
the most likely. Especially since he's been messing with the
fuel filler cap. We do not get many reports of problems like
those you name above, though again, they are possible.

> how DO they detect a evap leak in "the fuel tank area"?

I think I remember there is some sort of legit procedure for
it.

 

"Elle" <honda.lioness@spamnocox.net> wrote in
news:eyd3k.2721$Ll6.2377@newsfe20.lga:

> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote
>> maybe he has a bad hose in the fuel tank area? Or a crack
>> in the filler
>> pipe.
>
> These are always possibilities. I was trying to emphasize
> the most likely. Especially since he's been messing with the
> fuel filler cap. We do not get many reports of problems like
> those you name above, though again, they are possible.
>
>> how DO they detect a evap leak in "the fuel tank area"?
>
> I think I remember there is some sort of legit procedure for
> it.
>
>
>

I meant how does the ECU detect it? fuel tank pressure sensor?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote

> I meant how does the ECU detect it? fuel tank pressure
> sensor?

I'd be studying:
http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/m...pdf/11-110.pdf

http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/m...pdf/11-113.pdf

 

I agree if he wants to fix it himself he needs the manual. Also the tank
system needs to be pressure and vacuum tested. Any leak in the tank area can
cause the problem. Rusted tank. Cracked hose. The whole system needs a
thorough examination Whether the dealer service tech sees the code or not
has no bearing on the problem or fix.

"Elle" <honda.lioness@spamnocox.net> wrote in message
news:Vzf3k.5959$QI2.3310@newsfe23.lga...
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote
>
>> I meant how does the ECU detect it? fuel tank pressure sensor?
>
> I'd be studying:
> http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/m...pdf/11-110.pdf
>
> http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/m...pdf/11-113.pdf
>

 

@ .net (Lee) wrote in news:484d4bec$0$5705$4c368faf@roadrunner.com:

> I am driving a 1998's Honda Accord LX.


<snip>



> I was issued the
> same code P1456 and received the same tests. Once again, the dealer
> did not find any problems. I was charged $98.67 this time. The deal
> told me to bring it back when the light is on. Here are my questions.
> When the light is on, it should indicate some problems. When tests do
> not show any problems, the light should be off. I am wondering whether
> the dealer has the ability to detect the problems at all. I am also
> wondering that I may be charged again and again whenever the light is
> on and I take it to the dealer. I know it is a 10 year-old car. I do
> not have any plan to replace it because of my financial situation. I
> would appreciate if you can give suggestions.
> Thanks.
>


You need a more diligent dealer.

See here:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/evap-diag/
These are Honda's help documents for the OBD-II EVAP system. Honda issued
these as an aid to technicians. They do not, however, help anybody when the
binder they're in sits unopened on a dusty shelf in the service manager's
office.

Honda installed the EVAP canister and solenoids at the back underside of
the car, where salt and moisture corrode the components and cause leaks and
P1456/P1457 DTCs.

Find a garage with a smoke machine, and one with techs who are willing to
read what Honda has put out to help techs solve EVAP problems. This is NOT
rocket science.

And finally, as to your money situation: So long as the DTC is only ever
P1456/P1457, you can drive the car forever like that. This problem affects
nothing of any importance whatsoever -- until you need to pass smog next
time.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/