external powered sub, timing belt, starting ?'s
I have 2 ?'s if anyone can help me on my newly purchsed 90' predluse
s. 1. I was trying to hook up a powered sparkomatic sub. I don't have a manual for the car. I was looking at the fuse box for the power connectors at the bottom but did not know which one I should use. There are 2 power connectors from the sub and 2 inputs for power wires under the fuses. WHen I connected both power wires to both the power inputs under the fuses the radio came on without the key in the ignition so I figrued I better get help. Any suggestions? 2. Miles are heading to 90,000 and I was looking to get the timing belt, water pump and the clutch replaced (I read these are good to do before anything happens). ANy idea what these replacements should cost all together from a certified honda mechanic. Also my prelude will have trouble starting (I have to press the clutch as far as it will go), but once it does it will run fine. Any ideas on what this could be? thanks |
Re: external powered sub, timing belt, starting ?'s
ghostdog69@lycos.com (ghostdog69) decided to join the conversation on 12
Aug 2004 with message news:2480a1fd.0408121525.3f36b1a@posting.google.co m: > I have 2 ?'s if anyone can help me on my newly purchsed 90' predluse > s. > > 1. I was trying to hook up a powered sparkomatic sub. I don't have a > manual for the car. I was looking at the fuse box for the power > connectors at the bottom but did not know which one I should use. > There are 2 power connectors from the sub and 2 inputs for power wires > under the fuses. WHen I connected both power wires to both the power > inputs under the fuses the radio came on without the key in the > ignition so I figrued I better get help. Any suggestions? > The spade connecters on your fuse box are all positive (+) leads. One is probably constant power, another is probably "accessory" power.. The reason your radio came is is probably because you created a circuit between the constant and accessory power by connecting both wires.. To wire your amp to the car, I'd recommend going directly to the battery for power.. Don't forget to put an inline fuse(*1) as close to the battery end of the positive wire as possible.. The ground (-) wire can be hooked up anywhere there's metal in the trunk.. What i've done in my cars is unscrewed one of the nuts that holds the tail light housing, scratch off the paint under the nut (to expose the bare metal).. Crimped on a ring connector(*2) to the end of the ground wire, stuck the ring on the bolt, and tightened the nut back down on it.. BTW, I've never heard of Sparkomatic... Sounds like an off-brand.. any good? Also, if you haven't run them already: Unless you've got some really high quality (shielded) audio cables going from your deck to the amp.. Run your power wires down one side (usually passenger side is best, since that's the side with the battery on it), and your audio down the other.. It'll cut down on interference. I think.. Anyone wanna verify that? (Here's what the *'s are for) *1 - In-line fuse holder: http://tinyurl.com/3ztf7 .. You'll probably have to get one that's the same gauge as your power wires.. I have a 200w amp and 12 gauge does fine.. 20amp fuse should do fine in there, also. I think mine's a 20.. *2 - Ring connector: http://tinyurl.com/6b2f6 ... Get two of them, one for your ground, one for your positive wire.. Best way to hook it to the battery is to loosen the terminal, take it off, and completely undo the nut off there, stick the ring on, and put the nut back on.. > Also my prelude will have trouble starting (I have to press the clutch > as far as it will go), but once it does it will run fine. Any ideas > on what this could be? Possibly the switch that tells the car that the clutch is pressed down isn't getting pushed until you push as far as it will go.. I had the same issue on my '90 prelude. It's better than not having that switch (my 87 accord didn't), forgetting to push the clutch in while in gear and trying to start the car... :-D -- -Chris http://www.ChrisGarcia.com - My Homepage http://www.Evangar.com - Affordable Web Hosting, and much more! |
Re: external powered sub, timing belt, starting ?'s
ghostdog69@lycos.com (ghostdog69) decided to join the conversation on 12
Aug 2004 with message news:2480a1fd.0408121525.3f36b1a@posting.google.co m: > I have 2 ?'s if anyone can help me on my newly purchsed 90' predluse > s. > > 1. I was trying to hook up a powered sparkomatic sub. I don't have a > manual for the car. I was looking at the fuse box for the power > connectors at the bottom but did not know which one I should use. > There are 2 power connectors from the sub and 2 inputs for power wires > under the fuses. WHen I connected both power wires to both the power > inputs under the fuses the radio came on without the key in the > ignition so I figrued I better get help. Any suggestions? > The spade connecters on your fuse box are all positive (+) leads. One is probably constant power, another is probably "accessory" power.. The reason your radio came is is probably because you created a circuit between the constant and accessory power by connecting both wires.. To wire your amp to the car, I'd recommend going directly to the battery for power.. Don't forget to put an inline fuse(*1) as close to the battery end of the positive wire as possible.. The ground (-) wire can be hooked up anywhere there's metal in the trunk.. What i've done in my cars is unscrewed one of the nuts that holds the tail light housing, scratch off the paint under the nut (to expose the bare metal).. Crimped on a ring connector(*2) to the end of the ground wire, stuck the ring on the bolt, and tightened the nut back down on it.. BTW, I've never heard of Sparkomatic... Sounds like an off-brand.. any good? Also, if you haven't run them already: Unless you've got some really high quality (shielded) audio cables going from your deck to the amp.. Run your power wires down one side (usually passenger side is best, since that's the side with the battery on it), and your audio down the other.. It'll cut down on interference. I think.. Anyone wanna verify that? (Here's what the *'s are for) *1 - In-line fuse holder: http://tinyurl.com/3ztf7 .. You'll probably have to get one that's the same gauge as your power wires.. I have a 200w amp and 12 gauge does fine.. 20amp fuse should do fine in there, also. I think mine's a 20.. *2 - Ring connector: http://tinyurl.com/6b2f6 ... Get two of them, one for your ground, one for your positive wire.. Best way to hook it to the battery is to loosen the terminal, take it off, and completely undo the nut off there, stick the ring on, and put the nut back on.. > Also my prelude will have trouble starting (I have to press the clutch > as far as it will go), but once it does it will run fine. Any ideas > on what this could be? Possibly the switch that tells the car that the clutch is pressed down isn't getting pushed until you push as far as it will go.. I had the same issue on my '90 prelude. It's better than not having that switch (my 87 accord didn't), forgetting to push the clutch in while in gear and trying to start the car... :-D -- -Chris http://www.ChrisGarcia.com - My Homepage http://www.Evangar.com - Affordable Web Hosting, and much more! |
Re: external powered sub, timing belt, starting ?'s
sparkomatic is very low end
|
Re: external powered sub, timing belt, starting ?'s
sparkomatic is very low end
|
Re: external powered sub, timing belt, starting ?'s
ghostdog69 wrote:
> > 2. Miles are heading to 90,000 and I was looking to get the timing > belt, water pump and the clutch replaced (I read these are good to do > before anything happens). ANy idea what these replacements should > cost all together from a certified honda mechanic. Yes, it's time to do the timing belt and water pump. It would also be a good idea to replace the cam and crank seals and valve cover gaskets as well. It makes the job a little more expensive, but it provides a good insurance policy against premature timing belt failure due to oil leaks which can degrade the integrity of the rubber timing belt. Why replace the clutch? Is it slipping? Eric |
Re: external powered sub, timing belt, starting ?'s
ghostdog69 wrote:
> > 2. Miles are heading to 90,000 and I was looking to get the timing > belt, water pump and the clutch replaced (I read these are good to do > before anything happens). ANy idea what these replacements should > cost all together from a certified honda mechanic. Yes, it's time to do the timing belt and water pump. It would also be a good idea to replace the cam and crank seals and valve cover gaskets as well. It makes the job a little more expensive, but it provides a good insurance policy against premature timing belt failure due to oil leaks which can degrade the integrity of the rubber timing belt. Why replace the clutch? Is it slipping? Eric |
Re: external powered sub, timing belt, starting ?'s
"_chris_" <chris_farr@sympatico.ca> decided to join the conversation on 12
Aug 2004 with message news:_LTSc.26422$Mq1.1598126@news20.bellglobal.com : > sparkomatic is very low end The name alone sounds cheap X-D -- -Chris http://www.ChrisGarcia.com - My Homepage http://www.Evangar.com - Affordable Web Hosting, and much more! |
Re: external powered sub, timing belt, starting ?'s
"_chris_" <chris_farr@sympatico.ca> decided to join the conversation on 12
Aug 2004 with message news:_LTSc.26422$Mq1.1598126@news20.bellglobal.com : > sparkomatic is very low end The name alone sounds cheap X-D -- -Chris http://www.ChrisGarcia.com - My Homepage http://www.Evangar.com - Affordable Web Hosting, and much more! |
Re: external powered sub, timing belt, starting ?'s
ghostdog69 wrote:
The clutch pedal switch is adjustable. When closed, it switches ground to a relay that energizes and passes the 12V from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. > Also my prelude will have trouble starting (I have to press the clutch > as far as it will go), but once it does it will run fine. Any ideas > on what this could be? > > > thanks -- Give me Linux or give me ...uh..not Windoze. |
Re: external powered sub, timing belt, starting ?'s
ghostdog69 wrote:
The clutch pedal switch is adjustable. When closed, it switches ground to a relay that energizes and passes the 12V from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. > Also my prelude will have trouble starting (I have to press the clutch > as far as it will go), but once it does it will run fine. Any ideas > on what this could be? > > > thanks -- Give me Linux or give me ...uh..not Windoze. |
Re: external powered sub, timing belt, starting ?'s
Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:<411C326F.B81A1967@spam.now>...
> ghostdog69 wrote: > > > > 2. Miles are heading to 90,000 and I was looking to get the timing > > belt, water pump and the clutch replaced (I read these are good to do > > before anything happens). ANy idea what these replacements should > > cost all together from a certified honda mechanic. > > Yes, it's time to do the timing belt and water pump. It would also be a > good idea to replace the cam and crank seals and valve cover gaskets as > well. It makes the job a little more expensive, but it provides a good > insurance policy against premature timing belt failure due to oil leaks > which can degrade the integrity of the rubber timing belt. > > Why replace the clutch? Is it slipping? > > Eric Any idea what this is going to cost? I was looking to put $500 into it. What's a good price for the stuff you mentioned so I have an idea of what's fair? |
Re: external powered sub, timing belt, starting ?'s
Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:<411C326F.B81A1967@spam.now>...
> ghostdog69 wrote: > > > > 2. Miles are heading to 90,000 and I was looking to get the timing > > belt, water pump and the clutch replaced (I read these are good to do > > before anything happens). ANy idea what these replacements should > > cost all together from a certified honda mechanic. > > Yes, it's time to do the timing belt and water pump. It would also be a > good idea to replace the cam and crank seals and valve cover gaskets as > well. It makes the job a little more expensive, but it provides a good > insurance policy against premature timing belt failure due to oil leaks > which can degrade the integrity of the rubber timing belt. > > Why replace the clutch? Is it slipping? > > Eric Any idea what this is going to cost? I was looking to put $500 into it. What's a good price for the stuff you mentioned so I have an idea of what's fair? |
Re: external powered sub, timing belt, starting ?'s
On 8/13/04 11:08 PM, in article
2480a1fd.0408132008.578fea60@posting.google.com, "ghostdog69" <ghostdog69@lycos.com> wrote: > Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:<411C326F.B81A1967@spam.now>... >> ghostdog69 wrote: >>> >>> 2. Miles are heading to 90,000 and I was looking to get the timing >>> belt, water pump and the clutch replaced (I read these are good to do >>> before anything happens). ANy idea what these replacements should >>> cost all together from a certified honda mechanic. >> >> Yes, it's time to do the timing belt and water pump. It would also be a >> good idea to replace the cam and crank seals and valve cover gaskets as >> well. It makes the job a little more expensive, but it provides a good >> insurance policy against premature timing belt failure due to oil leaks >> which can degrade the integrity of the rubber timing belt. >> >> Why replace the clutch? Is it slipping? >> >> Eric > > Any idea what this is going to cost? I was looking to put $500 into > it. What's a good price for the stuff you mentioned so I have an idea > of what's fair? For the timing belt/water pump deal, dealers charge anywhere from $400 to $1200 (US) depending on which engine it is and what they can get away with in their area. Independents should be closer to $400. If you do it yourself, genuine Honda parts will be under $200 from one of the on-line dealers. |
Re: external powered sub, timing belt, starting ?'s
On 8/13/04 11:08 PM, in article
2480a1fd.0408132008.578fea60@posting.google.com, "ghostdog69" <ghostdog69@lycos.com> wrote: > Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:<411C326F.B81A1967@spam.now>... >> ghostdog69 wrote: >>> >>> 2. Miles are heading to 90,000 and I was looking to get the timing >>> belt, water pump and the clutch replaced (I read these are good to do >>> before anything happens). ANy idea what these replacements should >>> cost all together from a certified honda mechanic. >> >> Yes, it's time to do the timing belt and water pump. It would also be a >> good idea to replace the cam and crank seals and valve cover gaskets as >> well. It makes the job a little more expensive, but it provides a good >> insurance policy against premature timing belt failure due to oil leaks >> which can degrade the integrity of the rubber timing belt. >> >> Why replace the clutch? Is it slipping? >> >> Eric > > Any idea what this is going to cost? I was looking to put $500 into > it. What's a good price for the stuff you mentioned so I have an idea > of what's fair? For the timing belt/water pump deal, dealers charge anywhere from $400 to $1200 (US) depending on which engine it is and what they can get away with in their area. Independents should be closer to $400. If you do it yourself, genuine Honda parts will be under $200 from one of the on-line dealers. |
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