Re: Honda MC question
 

loewent via CarKB.com wrote:
> Also, with regards to the pen tool, good idea! I will try to make one.
> perhaps more questions to come!
>
> PS Do the jets get screwed down all the way?

depends on the jet. if it's simply a fixed orifice, yes. if it's a
needle jet, with a fine thread on the adjuster screw, no. usually, they
get screwed in GENTLY to the stop, then backed out a number of turns.
but what that correct turn number is is anyone's guess. before
disassembly, see how many turns it takes to the stop for each jet. if
they're both roughly the same, that's probably what you want to use
again [and balance from there]. if they're way different, you're back
to guess work.

> or is there another setting
> there to help atomization of fuel? Or does that occur only at the needle?

jets and floats are the big things. some floats puncture and stop
floating :P or their float level has been "helped" into the wrong
position.

one trick for cleaning jets is to use copper wire to clean them out.
copper is softer than the brass of the jet, so won't abrade and enlarge
the hole, but is sufficiently strong to bust out most grime that may
have accumulated. if you have a magnifier, check the jets for signs of
previous damage. if these carbs have been stripped and "helped" before,
there's a danger someone's damaged them.

sorry, can't help on the settings - no idea for this machine. the book
is the way to go. it may be expensive, but it sure is cheaper than
paying for a shop to do this stuff. and it has resale value.

>
> t
>
> loewent wrote:
>> I guess I am reserved to buying the book, every resource I have looked at so
>> far requires that you measure the baseline before disassembly. IE Float tab
>> angle, air screw and fuel screw settings. I am pretty sure that they are all
>> wrong, probably been taken apart already and messed with.
>>
>> Without a vacuum gauge, I guess syncing these carbs will be difficult.
>>
>> I have pulled the jets and all removeable gummed up parts and let them soak
>> in carb cleaner for a couple hours. That includes the float needle, which
>> seems to be working much better now that its clean. However, I hope I didn't
>> wreck it by letting it soak in solvent, there are probably rubber seals
>> inside it. I gave it a shot of some high quality assembly prelube to help
>> lubricate any gaskets inside.
>>
>> The carb has 2 jets, #76 and #112. Which one would be have a bigger jet?
>> Also, can I assume that the one with the bigger hole is the main jet?
>>
>> Thanks for the response!
>> t
>>
>>>> Hi there,
>>>>
>> [quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>>> perfectly and costs almost nothing to make. or you can buy the tool
>>> that does the same job!
>

Re: Honda MC question
 

loewent via CarKB.com wrote:
> Also, with regards to the pen tool, good idea! I will try to make one.
> perhaps more questions to come!
>
> PS Do the jets get screwed down all the way?

depends on the jet. if it's simply a fixed orifice, yes. if it's a
needle jet, with a fine thread on the adjuster screw, no. usually, they
get screwed in GENTLY to the stop, then backed out a number of turns.
but what that correct turn number is is anyone's guess. before
disassembly, see how many turns it takes to the stop for each jet. if
they're both roughly the same, that's probably what you want to use
again [and balance from there]. if they're way different, you're back
to guess work.

> or is there another setting
> there to help atomization of fuel? Or does that occur only at the needle?

jets and floats are the big things. some floats puncture and stop
floating :P or their float level has been "helped" into the wrong
position.

one trick for cleaning jets is to use copper wire to clean them out.
copper is softer than the brass of the jet, so won't abrade and enlarge
the hole, but is sufficiently strong to bust out most grime that may
have accumulated. if you have a magnifier, check the jets for signs of
previous damage. if these carbs have been stripped and "helped" before,
there's a danger someone's damaged them.

sorry, can't help on the settings - no idea for this machine. the book
is the way to go. it may be expensive, but it sure is cheaper than
paying for a shop to do this stuff. and it has resale value.

>
> t
>
> loewent wrote:
>> I guess I am reserved to buying the book, every resource I have looked at so
>> far requires that you measure the baseline before disassembly. IE Float tab
>> angle, air screw and fuel screw settings. I am pretty sure that they are all
>> wrong, probably been taken apart already and messed with.
>>
>> Without a vacuum gauge, I guess syncing these carbs will be difficult.
>>
>> I have pulled the jets and all removeable gummed up parts and let them soak
>> in carb cleaner for a couple hours. That includes the float needle, which
>> seems to be working much better now that its clean. However, I hope I didn't
>> wreck it by letting it soak in solvent, there are probably rubber seals
>> inside it. I gave it a shot of some high quality assembly prelube to help
>> lubricate any gaskets inside.
>>
>> The carb has 2 jets, #76 and #112. Which one would be have a bigger jet?
>> Also, can I assume that the one with the bigger hole is the main jet?
>>
>> Thanks for the response!
>> t
>>
>>>> Hi there,
>>>>
>> [quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>>> perfectly and costs almost nothing to make. or you can buy the tool
>>> that does the same job!
>

Re: Honda MC question
 

loewent via CarKB.com wrote:
> Also, with regards to the pen tool, good idea! I will try to make one.
> perhaps more questions to come!
>
> PS Do the jets get screwed down all the way?

depends on the jet. if it's simply a fixed orifice, yes. if it's a
needle jet, with a fine thread on the adjuster screw, no. usually, they
get screwed in GENTLY to the stop, then backed out a number of turns.
but what that correct turn number is is anyone's guess. before
disassembly, see how many turns it takes to the stop for each jet. if
they're both roughly the same, that's probably what you want to use
again [and balance from there]. if they're way different, you're back
to guess work.

> or is there another setting
> there to help atomization of fuel? Or does that occur only at the needle?

jets and floats are the big things. some floats puncture and stop
floating :P or their float level has been "helped" into the wrong
position.

one trick for cleaning jets is to use copper wire to clean them out.
copper is softer than the brass of the jet, so won't abrade and enlarge
the hole, but is sufficiently strong to bust out most grime that may
have accumulated. if you have a magnifier, check the jets for signs of
previous damage. if these carbs have been stripped and "helped" before,
there's a danger someone's damaged them.

sorry, can't help on the settings - no idea for this machine. the book
is the way to go. it may be expensive, but it sure is cheaper than
paying for a shop to do this stuff. and it has resale value.

>
> t
>
> loewent wrote:
>> I guess I am reserved to buying the book, every resource I have looked at so
>> far requires that you measure the baseline before disassembly. IE Float tab
>> angle, air screw and fuel screw settings. I am pretty sure that they are all
>> wrong, probably been taken apart already and messed with.
>>
>> Without a vacuum gauge, I guess syncing these carbs will be difficult.
>>
>> I have pulled the jets and all removeable gummed up parts and let them soak
>> in carb cleaner for a couple hours. That includes the float needle, which
>> seems to be working much better now that its clean. However, I hope I didn't
>> wreck it by letting it soak in solvent, there are probably rubber seals
>> inside it. I gave it a shot of some high quality assembly prelube to help
>> lubricate any gaskets inside.
>>
>> The carb has 2 jets, #76 and #112. Which one would be have a bigger jet?
>> Also, can I assume that the one with the bigger hole is the main jet?
>>
>> Thanks for the response!
>> t
>>
>>>> Hi there,
>>>>
>> [quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>>> perfectly and costs almost nothing to make. or you can buy the tool
>>> that does the same job!
>