I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

This past weekend I replaced my two broken CV Joints.
I have a 1993 Accord w/ Manual Tranny and ABS.

The car was sitting for about a month while I was away on business. I
tackled the repair job (didn't drive the car until after joints were
replaced) and now have a problem with suspension. The car bounces up
and down about 4 or 5 times over small bumps, and over large bumps
there is a painful THUD! I don't know if my car is bottoming-out here
or not.

I heard that one should tighten the ball joints while the wheels are
on the ground and I intend to try that, but generally I don't know what
could cause this problem.
I don't know to suspect my shocks, bushings, or ball joints.
The bushing on my steering arm looked bad (what does bad look like
anyway?) but I don't have a problem with steering. If my bushings
are suspect, how can I tell if they look bad?

Thanks for any advice!!

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

"scube" <sowell_s@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1142362872.280925.259160@i40g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
> This past weekend I replaced my two broken CV Joints.
> I have a 1993 Accord w/ Manual Tranny and ABS.
>
> The car was sitting for about a month while I was away on business. I
> tackled the repair job (didn't drive the car until after joints were
> replaced) and now have a problem with suspension. The car bounces up
> and down about 4 or 5 times over small bumps, and over large bumps
> there is a painful THUD! I don't know if my car is bottoming-out here
> or not.

Think back when you replaced - what items had you disconnected to remove the
CV joints - Perhaps loosened the struts!!!!

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

Backbone wrote:
>
> Think back when you replaced - what items had you disconnected to remove the
> CV joints - Perhaps loosened the struts!!!!

Dissasembly:
1) I loosened the lugs and the large 36mm nut (spindle?) and jacked the
tire off the ground.
2) I removed the tire, the caliper+brake pads and the caliper mount.
3) I loosened the bolt for the wishbone (I actually removed the bolt,
but put it back in to get the LCA ball joint off)
4) I removed the castle nut of the Lower Cotrol Arm off and popped off
the ball joint associated with the LCA.
5) I pulled out the loosened bolt for the wishbone.

This allowed me to move the hub out of the way and pull the CV Axle
from it.

Reassembly:( After I got the old shaft out and put the new shaft in)
1) Put weight on the LCA and lifted up on the wheel hub to get the ball
joint bolt back into the hole it came from.
2) Applied pressure to the wheel hub (now loosely attached to the LCA
ball joint) and re-inserted the bolt for the wishbone.
3) tightened down both wishbone bolt/nut and LCA castle nut and
re-inserted cotter pin.
4) put tire back on, finger tightened the lugs
5) lowered car and torqued down the 36mm nut and lug nuts.

Maybe I did loosen the struts (those spring/shock things?), but how
could I tighten them back?

Thanks!

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

"scube" wrote

> This past weekend I replaced my two broken CV Joints.
> I have a 1993 Accord w/ Manual Tranny and ABS.
>
> The car was sitting for about a month while I was away on business. I
> tackled the repair job (didn't drive the car until after joints were
> replaced) and now have a problem with suspension. The car bounces up
> and down about 4 or 5 times over small bumps, and over large bumps
> there is a painful THUD! I don't know if my car is bottoming-out here
> or not.

Springs hold the car up, and allow it to "bounce" over bumps.
Struts (just big shock absorbers), control and dampen the bounces.
Worn out struts/shocks = bouncebouncebouncebouncebouncebounce.

Probably just a coincidence that they went bad at the same time you were
working on the joints. Maybe they were marginal to start with, and being fully
extended while off the ground finally killed them?

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

In article <1142362872.280925.259160@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups .com>,
sowell_s@yahoo.com says...
>This past weekend I replaced my two broken CV Joints.
> I have a 1993 Accord w/ Manual Tranny and ABS.
>The car was sitting for about a month while I was away on business. I
>tackled the repair job (didn't drive the car until after joints were
>replaced) and now have a problem with suspension. The car bounces up
>and down about 4 or 5 times over small bumps, and over large bumps
>there is a painful THUD! I don't know if my car is bottoming-out here
>or not.
> I heard that one should tighten the ball joints while the wheels are
>on the ground and I intend to try that, but generally I don't know what
>could cause this problem.
> I don't know to suspect my shocks, bushings, or ball joints.
> The bushing on my steering arm looked bad (what does bad look like
>anyway?) but I don't have a problem with steering. If my bushings
>are suspect, how can I tell if they look bad?
>Thanks for any advice!!

From your description it sounds like your shocks are shot. Did you notice
either one of them leaking fluid?
--------------
Alex

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

Well,
I removed the tire on the passenger side first and did a visual
inspection of the CV Boots. None were torn, so I proceeded to change
out the driverside CV Joint.
Both boots were ripped to hell and completly off the axle
exposing the bearings. Axle was EVERYWHERE, so it's hard to tell if
there is a leak in my strut/shock. I drove the car after this axle
change to see how it sounded/handled and that is when I noticed the
'bounce'.
I have some questions for anyone who can help which could clear up
some misconceptions/misunderstandings I have.

1) When replacing the LCA ball joint I needed to tug up and down on the
knuckle and the LCA, could I have dislodged the strut assembly somehow?
2) where would I want to look to see if I can see oil leaking from the
shock? Top or bottom?
3) I've read that one should tighten the LCA joint while the vehicle
is on the ground, which I did not. Could I have seated the ball joint
improperly when I put the hub assembly back together which would cause
these problems? How would I tell if my shocks were just 'loose'?
4) It is my understanding that the shock and strut is a combo deal,
meaning they are replaced together as a single part that's purchased,
correct?
5) After I replaced the driver side CV Joint I noticed the passenger
side was popping, so I replaced that as well. I did not notice any
difference w/ the shock-absorption after I disassembled the passenger
side hub assembly. Could only my driver side shock be bad? Should I
replace both?


Thank you all for your comments!!

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

On 14 Mar 2006 11:01:12 -0800, scube <sowell_s@yahoo.com> wrote:


>This past weekend I replaced my two broken CV Joints.
> I have a 1993 Accord w/ Manual Tranny and ABS.

>The car was sitting for about a month while I was away on business. I
>tackled the repair job (didn't drive the car until after joints were
>replaced) and now have a problem with suspension. The car bounces up
>and down about 4 or 5 times over small bumps, and over large bumps
>there is a painful THUD! I don't know if my car is bottoming-out here
>or not.

If you know so little about the working of a car's suspension, you
really shouldn't be working on it yourself.

Hint: shocks. Nothing else does vertical dampening. How the you came
to the conclusion that bushings have anything to do with vertical
dampening is a mystery to me.

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

touche'..
though my reasoning is that if the LCA didn't join correctly to the
knuckle, the fork attached to it maybe lower than normal which could
mean an extended shock (now this may be complete nonsense, I am no
mechanic...). I know quite well what suspensions do, but from a
mechanical point of view there are quite a few variations. I am far
from an expert (obviously), but as long as you can get to a part, why
fear replacing it? Plus, the terms shock and strut seem to be so
interchangeable it is causing confusion in my mind. Thanks for the
reply...

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

On 15 Mar 2006 09:32:43 -0800, "scube" <sowell_s@yahoo.com> wrote:

>touche'..
> though my reasoning is that if the LCA didn't join correctly to the
>knuckle, the fork attached to it maybe lower than normal which could
>mean an extended shock (now this may be complete nonsense, I am no
>mechanic...). I know quite well what suspensions do, but from a
>mechanical point of view there are quite a few variations. I am far
>from an expert (obviously), but as long as you can get to a part, why
>fear replacing it? Plus, the terms shock and strut seem to be so
>interchangeable it is causing confusion in my mind. Thanks for the
>reply...

from my decades of working on machinery...I used to have a saying: If
you don't know what you're doing, then don't do it.

Mostly my customers would attempt a repair before they would call me
to tell me their machines were broken. So I would have to undo their
damage before I could even begin to work on the original problem.

In this way, I learned about the machines in a hurry. There was no
going home until they were repaired correctly. I would ask them, what
did you do? Some would say the guy on the other shift did something
and they didn't know. Anyhow, you see the point: unintended
consequences.

Keep in mind, there is little that can't be fixed if you have enough
money to throw at it. Then again, there comes a time to wipe the
slate clean and start over, with a different machine. What is this
going to cost to get repaired by a pro, vs. how much for a *new/used
vehicle.

Were I in your situation, I would have only done one side of the car,
and waited a while to be sure it was done correctly, using the other
side of the car as a mirror reflection of the way things should be. I
could go back and forth between what I was doing and the *good side*
to make sure I was doing things right.

You've got 2 options now:
bring it in to have a pro fix it.
buy another car.
I think if you're still asking questions at this point, confused
between a strut and a shock ( a strut is the combo spring/shock in one
unit ), then having another go at it is a waste of time and money.

Everyone can't do everything. Bring it in and let someone with the
proper tools and experience give you an estimate on the repair price.

Lg

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

scube wrote:

> 3) I've read that one should tighten the LCA joint while the vehicle
> is on the ground, which I did not. Could I have seated the ball joint
> improperly when I put the hub assembly back together which would cause
> these problems?

The ball joint is usually tightened after using a floor jack underneath the
lower control arm to compress the suspension to its normal ride height.

Eric

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

AZ Nomad wrote:
> On 14 Mar 2006 11:01:12 -0800, scube <sowell_s@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>> This past weekend I replaced my two broken CV Joints.
>> I have a 1993 Accord w/ Manual Tranny and ABS.
>
>> The car was sitting for about a month while I was away on business. I
>> tackled the repair job (didn't drive the car until after joints were
>> replaced) and now have a problem with suspension. The car bounces up
>> and down about 4 or 5 times over small bumps, and over large bumps
>> there is a painful THUD! I don't know if my car is bottoming-out here
>> or not.
>
> If you know so little about the working of a car's suspension, you
> really shouldn't be working on it yourself.
>
> Hint: shocks. Nothing else does vertical dampening. How the you came
> to the conclusion that bushings have anything to do with vertical
> dampening is a mystery to me.
>
Well, bad bushings can certainly cause the "thud"

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

MasterBlaster wrote:
> "scube" wrote
>
>
>>This past weekend I replaced my two broken CV Joints.
>> I have a 1993 Accord w/ Manual Tranny and ABS.
>>
>>The car was sitting for about a month while I was away on business. I
>>tackled the repair job (didn't drive the car until after joints were
>>replaced) and now have a problem with suspension. The car bounces up
>>and down about 4 or 5 times over small bumps, and over large bumps
>>there is a painful THUD! I don't know if my car is bottoming-out here
>>or not.
>
>
> Springs hold the car up, and allow it to "bounce" over bumps.
> Struts (just big shock absorbers), control and dampen the bounces.
> Worn out struts/shocks = bouncebouncebouncebouncebouncebounce.
>
> Probably just a coincidence that they went bad at the same time you were
> working on the joints. Maybe they were marginal to start with, and being fully
> extended while off the ground finally killed them?
>
Having old struts fail after the wheel assembly was left hanging free
does not sound implausible to me. Possibly the piston traveled to a
portion of the cylinder that was dirty, rough & corroded that damaged
the old rubber seals. I suspect a similar event happened to my 1993
Accords master cylinder last year. I was having work done on it & asked
that the brake fluid be changed per the owner's manual. It had been
years since I had it done. The next day I get into the car & the brake
pedal goes to the floor. I limped back to the mechanic who said the
master cylinder went bad. He hypothesized that the new moisture-free
fluid had leeched the moisture out of the swelled seals effectively
drying them out & shrinking them. He replaced the master cylinder for
the price of the part only. I suspect that his helper let the pedal fall
to the floor when bleeding the brakes causing the piston seals to be
damaged in the unused portion of the cylinder.
Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic.

Rich

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

On 15 Mar 2006 09:32:43 -0800, "scube" <sowell_s@yahoo.com> wrote:

>touche'..
> though my reasoning is that if the LCA didn't join correctly to the
>knuckle, the fork attached to it maybe lower than normal which could
>mean an extended shock (now this may be complete nonsense, I am no
>mechanic...). I know quite well what suspensions do, but from a
>mechanical point of view there are quite a few variations. I am far
>from an expert (obviously), but as long as you can get to a part, why
>fear replacing it? Plus, the terms shock and strut seem to be so
>interchangeable it is causing confusion in my mind. Thanks for the
>reply...

My experience is that it pays to spend $20 on a repair manual. A
mechanic charges up to $100 an hour....do the math.

I looked in my Hilton's and '93 Accords have struts, that means that
the shock absorbers are an integral part of the sustention.
The half shafts and CV joints are in DRIVE TRAIN section 7 and the
SUSPENSION AND STEERING is in Section 8. There is a Cookbook
directions on how to remove and repair the CV joints on page 7-7.
I see nothing that should have effected the Struts.

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

On Wed, 15 Mar 2006 23:29:35 -0800, Charlie S <chasa@rcn.com> wrote:


>On 15 Mar 2006 09:32:43 -0800, "scube" <sowell_s@yahoo.com> wrote:

>>touche'..
>> though my reasoning is that if the LCA didn't join correctly to the
>>knuckle, the fork attached to it maybe lower than normal which could
>>mean an extended shock (now this may be complete nonsense, I am no
>>mechanic...). I know quite well what suspensions do, but from a
>>mechanical point of view there are quite a few variations. I am far
>>from an expert (obviously), but as long as you can get to a part, why
>>fear replacing it? Plus, the terms shock and strut seem to be so
>>interchangeable it is causing confusion in my mind. Thanks for the
>>reply...

>My experience is that it pays to spend $20 on a repair manual. A
>mechanic charges up to $100 an hour....do the math.

More like $100 for the shop manual. That $20 chilton's is generally a
complete waste of money.

How much is your own time worth? Have you ever replaced bushings? It
takes about 4 hours for an experienced home mechanic. Add $120 for the bushing
kit and if your time is worth ten bucks an hour, you just pissed away $160
for no real benefit.

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

Yeah,
a good shop manual is a bit pricey. This would be a weekend
venture, so my time in a sense is "free". I've got 18 hours or so to
spend on this, and worse case my car is still not driveable. I have
not replaced bushings before (not these bushings), though as I said, if
I can get to it why fear replacing it? It's just a car...a machine
for transportation from point A to point B, and it drives on the
ground=It doesn't fly in the air! If anything, I figure I should be
able to tow it to a shop and it would be less in labor costs since they
won't have to remove it ;-) (okay, no comments are necessary on this
statement...)

Thanks for the suggestion Eric. I took your info and raised up on
the LCA and then tightened the castle nut for the ball joint. When I
lowered the control arm(s) the shocks made an interesting hiss. This
helped out generally and I have determined that the front driver side
is bad. The shock(s) has been making noise for a while though.
Usually when it was cold out they would make a slight creaking noise
when going over slight bumps.

I will look into a manual and further inspection of the strut and
bushings this weekend. I can borrow a spring compressor if I get that
far, we'll see. I'll keep this thread posted on my trials and
tribulations, as well as look for more advice :-)

Thanks all for the suggestions, comments and understanding that not
everyone can be a mechanics apprentice. Somewhere, sometime, someone
has to learn it w/out a master by their side.

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

scube wrote:
> Yeah,
> a good shop manual is a bit pricey. This would be a weekend
> venture, so my time in a sense is "free". I've got 18 hours or so to
> spend on this, and worse case my car is still not driveable. I have
> not replaced bushings before (not these bushings), though as I said, if
> I can get to it why fear replacing it? It's just a car...a machine
> for transportation from point A to point B, and it drives on the
> ground=It doesn't fly in the air! If anything, I figure I should be
> able to tow it to a shop and it would be less in labor costs since they
> won't have to remove it ;-) (okay, no comments are necessary on this
> statement...)
>
> Thanks for the suggestion Eric. I took your info and raised up on
> the LCA and then tightened the castle nut for the ball joint. When I
> lowered the control arm(s) the shocks made an interesting hiss. This
> helped out generally and I have determined that the front driver side
> is bad. The shock(s) has been making noise for a while though.
> Usually when it was cold out they would make a slight creaking noise
> when going over slight bumps.
>
> I will look into a manual and further inspection of the strut and
> bushings this weekend. I can borrow a spring compressor if I get that
> far, we'll see. I'll keep this thread posted on my trials and
> tribulations, as well as look for more advice :-)
>
> Thanks all for the suggestions, comments and understanding that not
> everyone can be a mechanics apprentice. Somewhere, sometime, someone
> has to learn it w/out a master by their side.
>
My 93 Accord has been making that creaking noise in the cold for years.
I always wondered what it was. However, I was able to do something that
considerably improved it. I moved to Arizona so now I might hear it once
or twice a year instead of every morning for 4 or 5 months when I was in NJ.

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

well all,

it took me just about 5 hours to complete a driver-side front strut.
In about an hour I had the strut off and purchased a new one/rented a
spring compressor. In another hour I removed the old strut assembly
from the coil spring and ate dinner. Next 2+ hours I wrestled with
getting the shock/spring back together and putting it back on the car.
I could have dramatically reduced the time it took if I had a vise
Compressing that spring took forever having to hold it for support and
screw the bolts down on the compressor. I just moved to another state
and all my tools/crap is still in storage, so I needed to buy some
tools as well.

I found some great links for manuals. Here's where I went,
http://honda.icelord.net/

Total cost came to:
Strut: $52, metric hex keys: $8, set of open-end wrenches: $17,
spring compressor: free upon return, taxes and about 4 hours of my
time.

Rides great now! Thank you all that gave me good advice. Poo-poo on
you nay sayers... It was easier than the CV Joints by far, IMO.

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

"scube" <sowell_s@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1142569504.229173.38270@v46g2000cwv.googlegro ups.com...
> Rides great now! Thank you all that gave me good advice. Poo-poo on
> you nay sayers... It was easier than the CV Joints by far, IMO.
>
I really didn't want to get into the minor fray while you still had the
challenge ahead of you, but I feel the only way we make progress is to reach
a little farther each time. Before you had not changed a strut; now you
have. For everybody there is a first time for everything. There are some
things that are outside our abilities (I stay out of auto trannies and
differentials and shy away from exhaust systems), but posting in fora like
these is enough to find out if there are any "heavens, no!" warnings. Yes -
poo-poo on the nay sayers.

Mike

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

AZ Nomad wrote:
> On Wed, 15 Mar 2006 23:29:35 -0800, Charlie S <chasa@rcn.com> wrote:
>
>
>> On 15 Mar 2006 09:32:43 -0800, "scube" <sowell_s@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>> touche'..
>>> though my reasoning is that if the LCA didn't join correctly to the
>>> knuckle, the fork attached to it maybe lower than normal which could
>>> mean an extended shock (now this may be complete nonsense, I am no
>>> mechanic...). I know quite well what suspensions do, but from a
>>> mechanical point of view there are quite a few variations. I am far
>> >from an expert (obviously), but as long as you can get to a part, why
>>> fear replacing it? Plus, the terms shock and strut seem to be so
>>> interchangeable it is causing confusion in my mind. Thanks for the
>>> reply...
>
>> My experience is that it pays to spend $20 on a repair manual. A
>> mechanic charges up to $100 an hour....do the math.
>
> More like $100 for the shop manual. That $20 chilton's is generally a
> complete waste of money.
>
> How much is your own time worth? Have you ever replaced bushings? It
> takes about 4 hours for an experienced home mechanic. Add $120 for the bushing
> kit and if your time is worth ten bucks an hour, you just pissed away $160
> for no real benefit.

4 hours for an experienced mechanic to replace bushings?

Damn... it took me about 4 hours to replace mine, and that's including
the trip to my buddy's house to use his press.

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 14:11:08 GMT, Jon C <news@jonnythan.com> wrote:


>AZ Nomad wrote:
>> On Wed, 15 Mar 2006 23:29:35 -0800, Charlie S <chasa@rcn.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> On 15 Mar 2006 09:32:43 -0800, "scube" <sowell_s@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>>> touche'..
>>>> though my reasoning is that if the LCA didn't join correctly to the
>>>> knuckle, the fork attached to it maybe lower than normal which could
>>>> mean an extended shock (now this may be complete nonsense, I am no
>>>> mechanic...). I know quite well what suspensions do, but from a
>>>> mechanical point of view there are quite a few variations. I am far
>>> >from an expert (obviously), but as long as you can get to a part, why
>>>> fear replacing it? Plus, the terms shock and strut seem to be so
>>>> interchangeable it is causing confusion in my mind. Thanks for the
>>>> reply...
>>
>>> My experience is that it pays to spend $20 on a repair manual. A
>>> mechanic charges up to $100 an hour....do the math.
>>
>> More like $100 for the shop manual. That $20 chilton's is generally a
>> complete waste of money.
>>
>> How much is your own time worth? Have you ever replaced bushings? It
>> takes about 4 hours for an experienced home mechanic. Add $120 for the bushing
>> kit and if your time is worth ten bucks an hour, you just pissed away $160
>> for no real benefit.

>4 hours for an experienced mechanic to replace bushings?
experienced HOME mechanic.



>Damn... it took me about 4 hours to replace mine, and that's including
>the trip to my buddy's house to use his press.

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

AZ Nomad wrote:

> experienced HOME mechanic.

Jon C just proved your point, and right on the nose, too!

I always get a kick out of work speed comparisons, especially on
something as wildly variant as "replacing a bushing". What make?
Model? Which suspension component? What tools are at your disposal?
How much corrosion? etc...

Toyota MDT in MO

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

Good job, I was going to say, to get an idea of your shocks condion
push down on your car it should bounce up-down-and-stop if the shocks
are good. If not, boing boing boing boing. LOL Did you use one of
those screw down spring compressors to disassemble your strut? I did
once, good grief, next time I will pull the strut and pay a shop a
couple bucks, or buy my buddy at the tire place dinner, and have them
throw it on their hydraulic spring compressor.

Those springs are DANGEROUS when compressed, a vice is not the tool to
use for compression, but for holding things while you use the
compressor they work well.

If you havent done something before, take your time. For me a Haynes
manual (15$) is essential as a general reference. . . when i did my
timing belt, they told me to take off my cruise control. . . . which
is on the other side of the engine bay from the timing belt. . . . . .
.. . . . . . . .

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

<andrewmcnown@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1142660699.252983.234720@u72g2000cwu.googlegr oups.com...
> Good job, I was going to say, to get an idea of your shocks condion
> push down on your car it should bounce up-down-and-stop if the shocks
> are good. If not, boing boing boing boing. LOL Did you use one of
> those screw down spring compressors to disassemble your strut? I did
> once, good grief, next time I will pull the strut and pay a shop a
> couple bucks, or buy my buddy at the tire place dinner, and have them
> throw it on their hydraulic spring compressor.
>
> Those springs are DANGEROUS when compressed, a vice is not the tool to
> use for compression, but for holding things while you use the
> compressor they work well.
>
The first time I did a strut I was really strapped for cash, had a paucity
of tools and the stores hadn't started the loan-a-tool program. A strut
compressor was out of my budget, so I got a bunch of muffler clamps (the
U-shaped things) and carefully fastened them in strategic places before I
loosened the big nut. Well, the big *hardware* nut, to clarify which nut we
are talking about. I got the strut apart without incident and got the spring
off before... "ZING!" all the clamps slipped around to one side of the
spring. I succeeded in getting it all straightened out using a big pair of
channel locks and a pair of vise grips, but my hands hurt when I was done. I
actually got the other side done without incident.

Mike

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

Michael Pardee wrote:
> <andrewmcnown@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1142660699.252983.234720@u72g2000cwu.googlegr oups.com...
>
>>Good job, I was going to say, to get an idea of your shocks condion
>>push down on your car it should bounce up-down-and-stop if the shocks
>>are good. If not, boing boing boing boing. LOL Did you use one of
>>those screw down spring compressors to disassemble your strut? I did
>>once, good grief, next time I will pull the strut and pay a shop a
>>couple bucks, or buy my buddy at the tire place dinner, and have them
>>throw it on their hydraulic spring compressor.
>>
>>Those springs are DANGEROUS when compressed, a vice is not the tool to
>>use for compression, but for holding things while you use the
>>compressor they work well.
>>
>
> The first time I did a strut I was really strapped for cash, had a paucity
> of tools and the stores hadn't started the loan-a-tool program. A strut
> compressor was out of my budget, so I got a bunch of muffler clamps (the
> U-shaped things) and carefully fastened them in strategic places before I
> loosened the big nut. Well, the big *hardware* nut, to clarify which nut we
> are talking about. I got the strut apart without incident and got the spring
> off before... "ZING!" all the clamps slipped around to one side of the
> spring. I succeeded in getting it all straightened out using a big pair of
> channel locks and a pair of vise grips, but my hands hurt when I was done. I
> actually got the other side done without incident.
>
> Mike
>
>

Along the same lines, the Harbor Freight spring compressors are
perfectly adequate for a small FWD car and dirt cheap. Mine have
probably done 5 or 6 different cars. They are a PITA with hand tools
however; oiling the screws helps some but not a lot.

I wouldn't try them on a really stiff suspension or a heavy car
though... fortunately my larger cars don't have struts and therefore
don't require a spring compressor.

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

Okay, well I replaced my driver's side strut and now my car bounces
again. It is no where near as bad as it was with the bad strut, but
it is still unsafe. I changed the driver's side and when I compare it
w/ the passenger side it is much more springy.
The passenger side (original strut) is hard to push down on. If I
push down on the hood above the wheel it barely moves and there is not
much bounce at all (it's quite hard -could a strut be bad and be too
hard?).
When I do the same to the driver's side (non-OEM strut) it goes down
relatively easy (not much though) and then up, but then returns to the
original level with only a single up and down. ... it's just easier to
'wobble' the car from that side.
I was wondering if I could have messed the spring up when I had the
compressor on there, maybe have left them on for too long. I doubt
it..

I wonder if the damper brand I got is just crappy and doesn't
"dampen" very well or if it was a fluke and I got a weak one. It
was the cheapest Autozone had, a GABRIEL ULTRA SHOCK/STRUT, which came
with a lifetime warranty. The other one they had, the GABRIEL GUARDIAN
SHOCK/STRUT, was only a dollar more with a one year warranty though..

The spring still 'springs', but the damper doesn't 'dampen'. I'm
guessing it to be the damper, but would a spring do anything like this?
Maybe while I had the compressor on it it lost some length (got
shorter) compared to the passenger side spring? Not entirely likely,
but I read you should replace both springs at the same time. Maybe I
should replace both struts at the same time. Anyways...


any suggestions? Thanks all!!

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

Okay, well I replaced my driver's side strut and now my car bounces
again. It is no where near as bad as it was with the bad strut, but
it is still unsafe. I changed the driver's side and when I compare it
w/ the passenger side it is much more springy.
The passenger side (original strut) is hard to push down on. If I
push down on the hood above the wheel it barely moves and there is not
much bounce at all (it's quite hard -could a strut be bad and be too
hard?).
When I do the same to the driver's side (non-OEM strut) it goes down
relatively easy (not much though) and then up, but then returns to the
original level with only a single up and down. ... it's just easier to
'wobble' the car from that side.
I was wondering if I could have messed the spring up when I had the
compressor on there, maybe have left them on for too long. I doubt
it..

I wonder if the damper brand I got is just crappy and doesn't
"dampen" very well or if it was a fluke and I got a weak one. It
was the cheapest Autozone had, a GABRIEL ULTRA SHOCK/STRUT, which came
with a lifetime warranty. The other one they had, the GABRIEL GUARDIAN
SHOCK/STRUT, was only a dollar more with a one year warranty though..

The spring still 'springs', but the damper doesn't 'dampen'. I'm
guessing it to be the damper, but would a spring do anything like this?
Maybe while I had the compressor on it it lost some length (got
shorter) compared to the passenger side spring? Not entirely likely,
but I read you should replace both springs at the same time. Maybe I
should replace both struts at the same time. Anyways...


any suggestions? Thanks all!!

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

"scube" <boxfreedom@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:1143854852.951903.126900@j33g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:

> Okay, well I replaced my driver's side strut



You're not really supposed to replace just one. You should replace them in
axle sets.

And what year and model Honda is this? Most older Hondas do not have
"struts", but dampers instead (yes it matters). It is critical in those
cases that you snug down the bushing bolts with the suspension at its
normal resting attitude.

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

"scube" <boxfreedom@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:1143854852.951903.126900@j33g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:

> Okay, well I replaced my driver's side strut



You're not really supposed to replace just one. You should replace them in
axle sets.

And what year and model Honda is this? Most older Hondas do not have
"struts", but dampers instead (yes it matters). It is critical in those
cases that you snug down the bushing bolts with the suspension at its
normal resting attitude.

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

"scube" <boxfreedom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1143854852.951903.126900@j33g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Okay, well I replaced my driver's side strut and now my car bounces
> again. It is no where near as bad as it was with the bad strut, but
> it is still unsafe. I changed the driver's side and when I compare it
> w/ the passenger side it is much more springy.
> The passenger side (original strut) is hard to push down on. If I
> push down on the hood above the wheel it barely moves and there is not
> much bounce at all (it's quite hard -could a strut be bad and be too
> hard?).

The strut is bad, replace it.

> When I do the same to the driver's side (non-OEM strut) it goes down
> relatively easy (not much though) and then up, but then returns to the
> original level with only a single up and down. ... it's just easier to
> 'wobble' the car from that side.

That test you did indicates the strut is ok.

> I was wondering if I could have messed the spring up when I had the
> compressor on there, maybe have left them on for too long. I doubt
> it..

Nope

>
> I wonder if the damper brand I got is just crappy and doesn't
> "dampen" very well or if it was a fluke and I got a weak one. It
> was the cheapest Autozone had, a GABRIEL ULTRA SHOCK/STRUT, which came
> with a lifetime warranty. The other one they had, the GABRIEL GUARDIAN
> SHOCK/STRUT, was only a dollar more with a one year warranty though..

Should be fine.

>
> The spring still 'springs', but the damper doesn't 'dampen'. I'm
> guessing it to be the damper, but would a spring do anything like this?
> Maybe while I had the compressor on it it lost some length (got
> shorter) compared to the passenger side spring? Not entirely likely,
> but I read you should replace both springs at the same time. Maybe I
> should replace both struts at the same time. Anyways...
>
>
> any suggestions? Thanks all!!

Replace the bad strut on the passenger side now. This is why it is
recommended to replace struts/shocks in pairs. I would also recommend the
rear shocks. You can check them the same way you did the struts.
>

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

"scube" <boxfreedom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1143854852.951903.126900@j33g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Okay, well I replaced my driver's side strut and now my car bounces
> again. It is no where near as bad as it was with the bad strut, but
> it is still unsafe. I changed the driver's side and when I compare it
> w/ the passenger side it is much more springy.
> The passenger side (original strut) is hard to push down on. If I
> push down on the hood above the wheel it barely moves and there is not
> much bounce at all (it's quite hard -could a strut be bad and be too
> hard?).

The strut is bad, replace it.

> When I do the same to the driver's side (non-OEM strut) it goes down
> relatively easy (not much though) and then up, but then returns to the
> original level with only a single up and down. ... it's just easier to
> 'wobble' the car from that side.

That test you did indicates the strut is ok.

> I was wondering if I could have messed the spring up when I had the
> compressor on there, maybe have left them on for too long. I doubt
> it..

Nope

>
> I wonder if the damper brand I got is just crappy and doesn't
> "dampen" very well or if it was a fluke and I got a weak one. It
> was the cheapest Autozone had, a GABRIEL ULTRA SHOCK/STRUT, which came
> with a lifetime warranty. The other one they had, the GABRIEL GUARDIAN
> SHOCK/STRUT, was only a dollar more with a one year warranty though..

Should be fine.

>
> The spring still 'springs', but the damper doesn't 'dampen'. I'm
> guessing it to be the damper, but would a spring do anything like this?
> Maybe while I had the compressor on it it lost some length (got
> shorter) compared to the passenger side spring? Not entirely likely,
> but I read you should replace both springs at the same time. Maybe I
> should replace both struts at the same time. Anyways...
>
>
> any suggestions? Thanks all!!

Replace the bad strut on the passenger side now. This is why it is
recommended to replace struts/shocks in pairs. I would also recommend the
rear shocks. You can check them the same way you did the struts.
>

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

"scube" <boxfreedom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1143854852.951903.126900@j33g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Okay, well I replaced my driver's side strut and now my car bounces
> again. It is no where near as bad as it was with the bad strut, but
> it is still unsafe. I changed the driver's side and when I compare it
> w/ the passenger side it is much more springy.
> The passenger side (original strut) is hard to push down on. If I
> push down on the hood above the wheel it barely moves and there is not
> much bounce at all (it's quite hard -could a strut be bad and be too
> hard?).
> When I do the same to the driver's side (non-OEM strut) it goes down
> relatively easy (not much though) and then up, but then returns to the
> original level with only a single up and down. ... it's just easier to
> 'wobble' the car from that side.
> I was wondering if I could have messed the spring up when I had the
> compressor on there, maybe have left them on for too long. I doubt
> it..
>
> I wonder if the damper brand I got is just crappy and doesn't
> "dampen" very well or if it was a fluke and I got a weak one. It
> was the cheapest Autozone had, a GABRIEL ULTRA SHOCK/STRUT, which came
> with a lifetime warranty. The other one they had, the GABRIEL GUARDIAN
> SHOCK/STRUT, was only a dollar more with a one year warranty though..
>
> The spring still 'springs', but the damper doesn't 'dampen'. I'm
> guessing it to be the damper, but would a spring do anything like this?
> Maybe while I had the compressor on it it lost some length (got
> shorter) compared to the passenger side spring? Not entirely likely,
> but I read you should replace both springs at the same time. Maybe I
> should replace both struts at the same time. Anyways...
>
>
> any suggestions? Thanks all!!
>
Have a hefty friend or two bounce the front end while you are watching the
various parts, especially the struts. The struts should expand and contract
exactly as the front end moves - if the front end is bouncing 2 inches, you
should see the strut move two inches on one end relative to the other.

Here's the thing. A good strut will compress (mainly it's the springs around
the cartridge that hold the car up) but will resist the expansion, so the
front end won't overshoot measurably when it comes back up. If the strut is
going boing (technical term) it is clearly bad or just too wimpy - new or
not. Heavy duty shocks really do have a lot more damping.

However, if the front end is bouncing two inches and the shock is moving one
inch, keep looking until you see where all that play is coming from. Just
keep your fingers away from the pinchy parts 8^O

Mike

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

"scube" <boxfreedom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1143854852.951903.126900@j33g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Okay, well I replaced my driver's side strut and now my car bounces
> again. It is no where near as bad as it was with the bad strut, but
> it is still unsafe. I changed the driver's side and when I compare it
> w/ the passenger side it is much more springy.
> The passenger side (original strut) is hard to push down on. If I
> push down on the hood above the wheel it barely moves and there is not
> much bounce at all (it's quite hard -could a strut be bad and be too
> hard?).
> When I do the same to the driver's side (non-OEM strut) it goes down
> relatively easy (not much though) and then up, but then returns to the
> original level with only a single up and down. ... it's just easier to
> 'wobble' the car from that side.
> I was wondering if I could have messed the spring up when I had the
> compressor on there, maybe have left them on for too long. I doubt
> it..
>
> I wonder if the damper brand I got is just crappy and doesn't
> "dampen" very well or if it was a fluke and I got a weak one. It
> was the cheapest Autozone had, a GABRIEL ULTRA SHOCK/STRUT, which came
> with a lifetime warranty. The other one they had, the GABRIEL GUARDIAN
> SHOCK/STRUT, was only a dollar more with a one year warranty though..
>
> The spring still 'springs', but the damper doesn't 'dampen'. I'm
> guessing it to be the damper, but would a spring do anything like this?
> Maybe while I had the compressor on it it lost some length (got
> shorter) compared to the passenger side spring? Not entirely likely,
> but I read you should replace both springs at the same time. Maybe I
> should replace both struts at the same time. Anyways...
>
>
> any suggestions? Thanks all!!
>
Have a hefty friend or two bounce the front end while you are watching the
various parts, especially the struts. The struts should expand and contract
exactly as the front end moves - if the front end is bouncing 2 inches, you
should see the strut move two inches on one end relative to the other.

Here's the thing. A good strut will compress (mainly it's the springs around
the cartridge that hold the car up) but will resist the expansion, so the
front end won't overshoot measurably when it comes back up. If the strut is
going boing (technical term) it is clearly bad or just too wimpy - new or
not. Heavy duty shocks really do have a lot more damping.

However, if the front end is bouncing two inches and the shock is moving one
inch, keep looking until you see where all that play is coming from. Just
keep your fingers away from the pinchy parts 8^O

Mike

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

okay,
so this is starting to make more sense (squeeze a little bit of
knowledge out at a time..)

when my driver's side tire hits a bump and absorbs some shock, the
passenger side is supposed to counter-act that and help w/ the
absorption?
So, if the passenger side was 'stiff' then it wouldn't absorb as
much and cause the driver side to seem to bounce? That makes sense
then.
Also, tightening the bushings w/ normal load on the springs was a
good suggestion (or procedure). I noticed that I could torque down
the lock nut at the top of the damper rod a few more turns w/ the tires
on the ground. this may help out as well, perhaps.

Also, my car wants to go to the left now, which is the same side I
replaced the shock on. I've heard you wanna get an alignment after
suspension work, but this is a hard pull to the left. Is this typical
or could something be loose/not adjusted correctly?
Maybe if I tighten down the locknut on top of the damper rod some
more I will get less pull? I guess the length of the strut would
place the tire at different angles, no?

Thanks for the great data and help...

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

okay,
so this is starting to make more sense (squeeze a little bit of
knowledge out at a time..)

when my driver's side tire hits a bump and absorbs some shock, the
passenger side is supposed to counter-act that and help w/ the
absorption?
So, if the passenger side was 'stiff' then it wouldn't absorb as
much and cause the driver side to seem to bounce? That makes sense
then.
Also, tightening the bushings w/ normal load on the springs was a
good suggestion (or procedure). I noticed that I could torque down
the lock nut at the top of the damper rod a few more turns w/ the tires
on the ground. this may help out as well, perhaps.

Also, my car wants to go to the left now, which is the same side I
replaced the shock on. I've heard you wanna get an alignment after
suspension work, but this is a hard pull to the left. Is this typical
or could something be loose/not adjusted correctly?
Maybe if I tighten down the locknut on top of the damper rod some
more I will get less pull? I guess the length of the strut would
place the tire at different angles, no?

Thanks for the great data and help...

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

"scube" <boxfreedom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1143905292.459055.317750@v46g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com...
> Also, my car wants to go to the left now, which is the same side I
> replaced the shock on. I've heard you wanna get an alignment after
> suspension work, but this is a hard pull to the left. Is this typical
> or could something be loose/not adjusted correctly?
> Maybe if I tighten down the locknut on top of the damper rod some
> more I will get less pull? I guess the length of the strut would
> place the tire at different angles, no?
>
> Thanks for the great data and help...
>
That has me worried. If the toe-in were only affected the tires would wear
badly and the steering wheel wouldn't sit straight, but it wouldn't likely
pull to either side. It sounds like something isn't put together quite
right. When you replaced the axles, did they go in without a fight?

Alignment isn't normally affected by replacing drive axles, but that isn't a
bad occasion for checking alignment. I'm wondering if you would be money
ahead to take it for alignment, being sure to fess up about how it got the
way it is now.

Mike

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

"scube" <boxfreedom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1143905292.459055.317750@v46g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com...
> Also, my car wants to go to the left now, which is the same side I
> replaced the shock on. I've heard you wanna get an alignment after
> suspension work, but this is a hard pull to the left. Is this typical
> or could something be loose/not adjusted correctly?
> Maybe if I tighten down the locknut on top of the damper rod some
> more I will get less pull? I guess the length of the strut would
> place the tire at different angles, no?
>
> Thanks for the great data and help...
>
That has me worried. If the toe-in were only affected the tires would wear
badly and the steering wheel wouldn't sit straight, but it wouldn't likely
pull to either side. It sounds like something isn't put together quite
right. When you replaced the axles, did they go in without a fight?

Alignment isn't normally affected by replacing drive axles, but that isn't a
bad occasion for checking alignment. I'm wondering if you would be money
ahead to take it for alignment, being sure to fess up about how it got the
way it is now.

Mike

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

Well,
the axles went in moderately easy. The hub side was cake, and the
tranny side took a little coaxing, but after I got it past the ring
clip it was good to go.
The strut replacement was some few days after I replaced the axles
and there was no drift at all. I'll ride it a few short miles over
the next few days and probably replace the passenger side strut and see
where we sit then. I may get an alignment check and perhaps they can
recommend something or find an issue.

thanks Mike...

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

Well,
the axles went in moderately easy. The hub side was cake, and the
tranny side took a little coaxing, but after I got it past the ring
clip it was good to go.
The strut replacement was some few days after I replaced the axles
and there was no drift at all. I'll ride it a few short miles over
the next few days and probably replace the passenger side strut and see
where we sit then. I may get an alignment check and perhaps they can
recommend something or find an issue.

thanks Mike...

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

Yup,
the passenger side strut was bad. I replaced it and it rides like a
champ now. Still the problem w/ alignment. I rotated my tires after
I did the dirver side strut and that's when I noticed the drifting
problem. It was several thousand miles ago that I performed my last
tire rotation, so maybe one of them got an uneven wear spot. Could
that result in a car that pulls to one side?

Re: I replaced my CVjoints, now my car bounces
 

Yup,
the passenger side strut was bad. I replaced it and it rides like a
champ now. Still the problem w/ alignment. I rotated my tires after
I did the dirver side strut and that's when I noticed the drifting
problem. It was several thousand miles ago that I performed my last
tire rotation, so maybe one of them got an uneven wear spot. Could
that result in a car that pulls to one side?