Idling speed
01-16-2005, 03:16 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Idling speed
I finally made the move from the expensive Honda dealer service to an
independent chain specializing in Japanese cars. I have mixed feelings
about it because it did not cost me less than a typical dealer service,
but about half the cost was due to a replacement of the distributor
assembly that cost me $400 even though it was a rebuilt Delco model .
Is this reasonable? I was told a new original from Honda could cost me
$500-600. From what I figure a rebuilt one that's not even from Honda,
should not cost more than about half of the cost of a new Honda brand,
but what do I know? The reason for replacement was that the oil was
seeping through it, so it was probably just a bad oil seal.
A smaller problem was in the distributor cap where the center carbon rod
was burned out and there was not even a solid contact between the top
and the bottom center. Interestingly though I never noticed any problem
with ignition before. Now I wonder if I was shown my own original
distributor cap when I wanted to see it.
The car seems to run better now, especially because they also replaced
the thermostat that was stuck open before which I believe because the
temp gage used to show no warming for quite a long time. Now it looks
normal.
The only thing that is worse now than before is the idling speed (aound
700) that seems too low and I stall often during starting. If I recall
the idle speed used to be around 1,000 RPM before. Is it easy to adjust
or I'm going to have to make another appointment with that shop?
The car is a '94 Accord LX.
Rudy
independent chain specializing in Japanese cars. I have mixed feelings
about it because it did not cost me less than a typical dealer service,
but about half the cost was due to a replacement of the distributor
assembly that cost me $400 even though it was a rebuilt Delco model .
Is this reasonable? I was told a new original from Honda could cost me
$500-600. From what I figure a rebuilt one that's not even from Honda,
should not cost more than about half of the cost of a new Honda brand,
but what do I know? The reason for replacement was that the oil was
seeping through it, so it was probably just a bad oil seal.
A smaller problem was in the distributor cap where the center carbon rod
was burned out and there was not even a solid contact between the top
and the bottom center. Interestingly though I never noticed any problem
with ignition before. Now I wonder if I was shown my own original
distributor cap when I wanted to see it.
The car seems to run better now, especially because they also replaced
the thermostat that was stuck open before which I believe because the
temp gage used to show no warming for quite a long time. Now it looks
normal.
The only thing that is worse now than before is the idling speed (aound
700) that seems too low and I stall often during starting. If I recall
the idle speed used to be around 1,000 RPM before. Is it easy to adjust
or I'm going to have to make another appointment with that shop?
The car is a '94 Accord LX.
Rudy
01-16-2005, 07:23 AM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Idling speed
"R. P." <r_pol12gar@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Z_WdnS-jj_xwv3fcRVn-ow@comcast.com...
>
> The only thing that is worse now than before is the idling speed (aound
> 700) that seems too low and I stall often during starting. If I recall
> the idle speed used to be around 1,000 RPM before. Is it easy to adjust
> or I'm going to have to make another appointment with that shop?
> The car is a '94 Accord LX.
That's the same speed that my Accords' engines idle. No problems here.
01-16-2005, 07:23 AM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Idling speed
"R. P." <r_pol12gar@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Z_WdnS-jj_xwv3fcRVn-ow@comcast.com...
>
> The only thing that is worse now than before is the idling speed (aound
> 700) that seems too low and I stall often during starting. If I recall
> the idle speed used to be around 1,000 RPM before. Is it easy to adjust
> or I'm going to have to make another appointment with that shop?
> The car is a '94 Accord LX.
That's the same speed that my Accords' engines idle. No problems here.
01-16-2005, 08:37 AM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Idling speed
Brian Smith wrote:
> "R. P." <r_pol12gar@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:Z_WdnS-jj_xwv3fcRVn-ow@comcast.com...
>
>>The only thing that is worse now than before is the idling speed (aound
>>700) that seems too low and I stall often during starting. If I recall
>>the idle speed used to be around 1,000 RPM before. Is it easy to adjust
>>or I'm going to have to make another appointment with that shop?
>>The car is a '94 Accord LX.
>
>
> That's the same speed that my Accords' engines idle. No problems here.
>
>
ditto, I have a 2000 accord and it idles around 700 or 750 when warm,
and my previous '91 accord sat at 700 when warm. I gather that's the
norm so if your's stalls then it could be something else.
01-16-2005, 08:37 AM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Idling speed
Brian Smith wrote:
> "R. P." <r_pol12gar@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:Z_WdnS-jj_xwv3fcRVn-ow@comcast.com...
>
>>The only thing that is worse now than before is the idling speed (aound
>>700) that seems too low and I stall often during starting. If I recall
>>the idle speed used to be around 1,000 RPM before. Is it easy to adjust
>>or I'm going to have to make another appointment with that shop?
>>The car is a '94 Accord LX.
>
>
> That's the same speed that my Accords' engines idle. No problems here.
>
>
ditto, I have a 2000 accord and it idles around 700 or 750 when warm,
and my previous '91 accord sat at 700 when warm. I gather that's the
norm so if your's stalls then it could be something else.
01-16-2005, 09:23 AM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Idling speed
"R. P." <r_pol12gar@hotmail.com> wrote in news:Z_WdnS-jj_xwv3fcRVn-
ow@comcast.com:
>
> A smaller problem was in the distributor cap where the center carbon rod
> was burned out and there was not even a solid contact between the top
> and the bottom center. Interestingly though I never noticed any problem
> with ignition before. Now I wonder if I was shown my own original
> distributor cap when I wanted to see it.
If the carbon contact was worn that much, then you've not had the cap
replaced when it should have been replaced.
The ignition system is strong enough to allow a spark to jump that gap,
which is why the car ran OK. Forcing the spark to jump that gap throws
extra load on other ignition components, perhaps one reason you had a
distributor failure.
>
> The car seems to run better now, especially because they also replaced
> the thermostat that was stuck open before which I believe because the
> temp gage used to show no warming for quite a long time. Now it looks
> normal.
Neglect again.
>
> The only thing that is worse now than before is the idling speed (aound
> 700) that seems too low and I stall often during starting.
Stalling during starting is a common Honda problem and is unrelated to idle
speed. Please describe exact symptoms.
> If I recall
> the idle speed used to be around 1,000 RPM before. Is it easy to adjust
> or I'm going to have to make another appointment with that shop?
> The car is a '94 Accord LX.
The full-warm idle speed in Drive is around 750rpm. In Neutral it'll be
around 1K. When cold it should idle about 1,500-1,700rpm.
If you're stalling at 700rpm, you've got a different problem.
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
ow@comcast.com:
>
> A smaller problem was in the distributor cap where the center carbon rod
> was burned out and there was not even a solid contact between the top
> and the bottom center. Interestingly though I never noticed any problem
> with ignition before. Now I wonder if I was shown my own original
> distributor cap when I wanted to see it.
If the carbon contact was worn that much, then you've not had the cap
replaced when it should have been replaced.
The ignition system is strong enough to allow a spark to jump that gap,
which is why the car ran OK. Forcing the spark to jump that gap throws
extra load on other ignition components, perhaps one reason you had a
distributor failure.
>
> The car seems to run better now, especially because they also replaced
> the thermostat that was stuck open before which I believe because the
> temp gage used to show no warming for quite a long time. Now it looks
> normal.
Neglect again.
>
> The only thing that is worse now than before is the idling speed (aound
> 700) that seems too low and I stall often during starting.
Stalling during starting is a common Honda problem and is unrelated to idle
speed. Please describe exact symptoms.
> If I recall
> the idle speed used to be around 1,000 RPM before. Is it easy to adjust
> or I'm going to have to make another appointment with that shop?
> The car is a '94 Accord LX.
The full-warm idle speed in Drive is around 750rpm. In Neutral it'll be
around 1K. When cold it should idle about 1,500-1,700rpm.
If you're stalling at 700rpm, you've got a different problem.
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
01-16-2005, 09:23 AM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Idling speed
"R. P." <r_pol12gar@hotmail.com> wrote in news:Z_WdnS-jj_xwv3fcRVn-
ow@comcast.com:
>
> A smaller problem was in the distributor cap where the center carbon rod
> was burned out and there was not even a solid contact between the top
> and the bottom center. Interestingly though I never noticed any problem
> with ignition before. Now I wonder if I was shown my own original
> distributor cap when I wanted to see it.
If the carbon contact was worn that much, then you've not had the cap
replaced when it should have been replaced.
The ignition system is strong enough to allow a spark to jump that gap,
which is why the car ran OK. Forcing the spark to jump that gap throws
extra load on other ignition components, perhaps one reason you had a
distributor failure.
>
> The car seems to run better now, especially because they also replaced
> the thermostat that was stuck open before which I believe because the
> temp gage used to show no warming for quite a long time. Now it looks
> normal.
Neglect again.
>
> The only thing that is worse now than before is the idling speed (aound
> 700) that seems too low and I stall often during starting.
Stalling during starting is a common Honda problem and is unrelated to idle
speed. Please describe exact symptoms.
> If I recall
> the idle speed used to be around 1,000 RPM before. Is it easy to adjust
> or I'm going to have to make another appointment with that shop?
> The car is a '94 Accord LX.
The full-warm idle speed in Drive is around 750rpm. In Neutral it'll be
around 1K. When cold it should idle about 1,500-1,700rpm.
If you're stalling at 700rpm, you've got a different problem.
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
ow@comcast.com:
>
> A smaller problem was in the distributor cap where the center carbon rod
> was burned out and there was not even a solid contact between the top
> and the bottom center. Interestingly though I never noticed any problem
> with ignition before. Now I wonder if I was shown my own original
> distributor cap when I wanted to see it.
If the carbon contact was worn that much, then you've not had the cap
replaced when it should have been replaced.
The ignition system is strong enough to allow a spark to jump that gap,
which is why the car ran OK. Forcing the spark to jump that gap throws
extra load on other ignition components, perhaps one reason you had a
distributor failure.
>
> The car seems to run better now, especially because they also replaced
> the thermostat that was stuck open before which I believe because the
> temp gage used to show no warming for quite a long time. Now it looks
> normal.
Neglect again.
>
> The only thing that is worse now than before is the idling speed (aound
> 700) that seems too low and I stall often during starting.
Stalling during starting is a common Honda problem and is unrelated to idle
speed. Please describe exact symptoms.
> If I recall
> the idle speed used to be around 1,000 RPM before. Is it easy to adjust
> or I'm going to have to make another appointment with that shop?
> The car is a '94 Accord LX.
The full-warm idle speed in Drive is around 750rpm. In Neutral it'll be
around 1K. When cold it should idle about 1,500-1,700rpm.
If you're stalling at 700rpm, you've got a different problem.
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
01-16-2005, 09:42 AM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Idling speed
"TeGGer®" <tegger@istop.c0m> wrote in message
news:Xns95E05FE46C599teggeratistop@207.14.113.17.. .
>
> Stalling during starting is a common Honda problem and is unrelated to
idle
> speed.
Stalling can't be that common a Honda problem. I've had quite a few Honda
cars over the years and none of them have ever stalled for me, even once.
Brian
01-16-2005, 09:42 AM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Idling speed
"TeGGer®" <tegger@istop.c0m> wrote in message
news:Xns95E05FE46C599teggeratistop@207.14.113.17.. .
>
> Stalling during starting is a common Honda problem and is unrelated to
idle
> speed.
Stalling can't be that common a Honda problem. I've had quite a few Honda
cars over the years and none of them have ever stalled for me, even once.
Brian
01-16-2005, 09:54 AM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Idling speed
"Brian Smith" <Halifax@NovaScotia.Canada> wrote in message
news:R3vGd.86223$nN6.45336@edtnps84...
>
> "TeGGer®" <tegger@istop.c0m> wrote in message
> news:Xns95E05FE46C599teggeratistop@207.14.113.17.. .
>>
>> Stalling during starting is a common Honda problem and is unrelated to
> idle
>> speed.
>
> Stalling can't be that common a Honda problem. I've had quite a few Honda
> cars over the years and none of them have ever stalled for me, even once.
>
> Brian
>
>
It isn't normal, only common. There is something specifically wrong, and
when it is fixed you won't have the symptom (stalling).
Mike
news:R3vGd.86223$nN6.45336@edtnps84...
>
> "TeGGer®" <tegger@istop.c0m> wrote in message
> news:Xns95E05FE46C599teggeratistop@207.14.113.17.. .
>>
>> Stalling during starting is a common Honda problem and is unrelated to
> idle
>> speed.
>
> Stalling can't be that common a Honda problem. I've had quite a few Honda
> cars over the years and none of them have ever stalled for me, even once.
>
> Brian
>
>
It isn't normal, only common. There is something specifically wrong, and
when it is fixed you won't have the symptom (stalling).
Mike
01-16-2005, 09:54 AM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Idling speed
"Brian Smith" <Halifax@NovaScotia.Canada> wrote in message
news:R3vGd.86223$nN6.45336@edtnps84...
>
> "TeGGer®" <tegger@istop.c0m> wrote in message
> news:Xns95E05FE46C599teggeratistop@207.14.113.17.. .
>>
>> Stalling during starting is a common Honda problem and is unrelated to
> idle
>> speed.
>
> Stalling can't be that common a Honda problem. I've had quite a few Honda
> cars over the years and none of them have ever stalled for me, even once.
>
> Brian
>
>
It isn't normal, only common. There is something specifically wrong, and
when it is fixed you won't have the symptom (stalling).
Mike
news:R3vGd.86223$nN6.45336@edtnps84...
>
> "TeGGer®" <tegger@istop.c0m> wrote in message
> news:Xns95E05FE46C599teggeratistop@207.14.113.17.. .
>>
>> Stalling during starting is a common Honda problem and is unrelated to
> idle
>> speed.
>
> Stalling can't be that common a Honda problem. I've had quite a few Honda
> cars over the years and none of them have ever stalled for me, even once.
>
> Brian
>
>
It isn't normal, only common. There is something specifically wrong, and
when it is fixed you won't have the symptom (stalling).
Mike
01-16-2005, 03:31 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Idling speed
>Stalling can't be that common a Honda problem. I've >had quite a few Honda
cars over the years and none of >them have ever stalled for me, even once.
Ditto! Never had any one of my 9 Honda's stall.
>abut about half the cost was due to a replacement of the >distributor
assembly that cost me $400 even though it >was a rebuilt Delco model . Is
this reasonable? I was >told a new original from Honda could cost me
$500->600. From what I figure a rebuilt one that's not even >from Honda,"
Had your "cheaper" independent known more about Honda than will admit, you
should have bought and installed a distributor sub-assembly from Honda.
Probably would have cost half as much. A sub-assembly is brand new and is
the distributor body, shaft and pickup with harness. You exchange your
igniter, cap, rotor and coil (if internal). This would have saved you a
bundle and probably not caused your idle/stalling problem.
So much for those "cheap" independents!
"R. P." <r_pol12gar@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Z_WdnS-jj_xwv3fcRVn-ow@comcast.com...
> I finally made the move from the expensive Honda dealer service to an
> independent chain specializing in Japanese cars. I have mixed feelings
> about it because it did not cost me less than a typical dealer service,
> but about half the cost was due to a replacement of the distributor
> assembly that cost me $400 even though it was a rebuilt Delco model .
> Is this reasonable? I was told a new original from Honda could cost me
> $500-600. From what I figure a rebuilt one that's not even from Honda,
> should not cost more than about half of the cost of a new Honda brand,
> but what do I know? The reason for replacement was that the oil was
> seeping through it, so it was probably just a bad oil seal.
>
> A smaller problem was in the distributor cap where the center carbon rod
> was burned out and there was not even a solid contact between the top
> and the bottom center. Interestingly though I never noticed any problem
> with ignition before. Now I wonder if I was shown my own original
> distributor cap when I wanted to see it.
>
> The car seems to run better now, especially because they also replaced
> the thermostat that was stuck open before which I believe because the
> temp gage used to show no warming for quite a long time. Now it looks
> normal.
>
> The only thing that is worse now than before is the idling speed (aound
> 700) that seems too low and I stall often during starting. If I recall
> the idle speed used to be around 1,000 RPM before. Is it easy to adjust
> or I'm going to have to make another appointment with that shop?
> The car is a '94 Accord LX.
>
> Rudy
>
>
cars over the years and none of >them have ever stalled for me, even once.
Ditto! Never had any one of my 9 Honda's stall.
>abut about half the cost was due to a replacement of the >distributor
assembly that cost me $400 even though it >was a rebuilt Delco model . Is
this reasonable? I was >told a new original from Honda could cost me
$500->600. From what I figure a rebuilt one that's not even >from Honda,"
Had your "cheaper" independent known more about Honda than will admit, you
should have bought and installed a distributor sub-assembly from Honda.
Probably would have cost half as much. A sub-assembly is brand new and is
the distributor body, shaft and pickup with harness. You exchange your
igniter, cap, rotor and coil (if internal). This would have saved you a
bundle and probably not caused your idle/stalling problem.
So much for those "cheap" independents!
"R. P." <r_pol12gar@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Z_WdnS-jj_xwv3fcRVn-ow@comcast.com...
> I finally made the move from the expensive Honda dealer service to an
> independent chain specializing in Japanese cars. I have mixed feelings
> about it because it did not cost me less than a typical dealer service,
> but about half the cost was due to a replacement of the distributor
> assembly that cost me $400 even though it was a rebuilt Delco model .
> Is this reasonable? I was told a new original from Honda could cost me
> $500-600. From what I figure a rebuilt one that's not even from Honda,
> should not cost more than about half of the cost of a new Honda brand,
> but what do I know? The reason for replacement was that the oil was
> seeping through it, so it was probably just a bad oil seal.
>
> A smaller problem was in the distributor cap where the center carbon rod
> was burned out and there was not even a solid contact between the top
> and the bottom center. Interestingly though I never noticed any problem
> with ignition before. Now I wonder if I was shown my own original
> distributor cap when I wanted to see it.
>
> The car seems to run better now, especially because they also replaced
> the thermostat that was stuck open before which I believe because the
> temp gage used to show no warming for quite a long time. Now it looks
> normal.
>
> The only thing that is worse now than before is the idling speed (aound
> 700) that seems too low and I stall often during starting. If I recall
> the idle speed used to be around 1,000 RPM before. Is it easy to adjust
> or I'm going to have to make another appointment with that shop?
> The car is a '94 Accord LX.
>
> Rudy
>
>
01-16-2005, 03:31 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Idling speed
>Stalling can't be that common a Honda problem. I've >had quite a few Honda
cars over the years and none of >them have ever stalled for me, even once.
Ditto! Never had any one of my 9 Honda's stall.
>abut about half the cost was due to a replacement of the >distributor
assembly that cost me $400 even though it >was a rebuilt Delco model . Is
this reasonable? I was >told a new original from Honda could cost me
$500->600. From what I figure a rebuilt one that's not even >from Honda,"
Had your "cheaper" independent known more about Honda than will admit, you
should have bought and installed a distributor sub-assembly from Honda.
Probably would have cost half as much. A sub-assembly is brand new and is
the distributor body, shaft and pickup with harness. You exchange your
igniter, cap, rotor and coil (if internal). This would have saved you a
bundle and probably not caused your idle/stalling problem.
So much for those "cheap" independents!
"R. P." <r_pol12gar@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Z_WdnS-jj_xwv3fcRVn-ow@comcast.com...
> I finally made the move from the expensive Honda dealer service to an
> independent chain specializing in Japanese cars. I have mixed feelings
> about it because it did not cost me less than a typical dealer service,
> but about half the cost was due to a replacement of the distributor
> assembly that cost me $400 even though it was a rebuilt Delco model .
> Is this reasonable? I was told a new original from Honda could cost me
> $500-600. From what I figure a rebuilt one that's not even from Honda,
> should not cost more than about half of the cost of a new Honda brand,
> but what do I know? The reason for replacement was that the oil was
> seeping through it, so it was probably just a bad oil seal.
>
> A smaller problem was in the distributor cap where the center carbon rod
> was burned out and there was not even a solid contact between the top
> and the bottom center. Interestingly though I never noticed any problem
> with ignition before. Now I wonder if I was shown my own original
> distributor cap when I wanted to see it.
>
> The car seems to run better now, especially because they also replaced
> the thermostat that was stuck open before which I believe because the
> temp gage used to show no warming for quite a long time. Now it looks
> normal.
>
> The only thing that is worse now than before is the idling speed (aound
> 700) that seems too low and I stall often during starting. If I recall
> the idle speed used to be around 1,000 RPM before. Is it easy to adjust
> or I'm going to have to make another appointment with that shop?
> The car is a '94 Accord LX.
>
> Rudy
>
>
cars over the years and none of >them have ever stalled for me, even once.
Ditto! Never had any one of my 9 Honda's stall.
>abut about half the cost was due to a replacement of the >distributor
assembly that cost me $400 even though it >was a rebuilt Delco model . Is
this reasonable? I was >told a new original from Honda could cost me
$500->600. From what I figure a rebuilt one that's not even >from Honda,"
Had your "cheaper" independent known more about Honda than will admit, you
should have bought and installed a distributor sub-assembly from Honda.
Probably would have cost half as much. A sub-assembly is brand new and is
the distributor body, shaft and pickup with harness. You exchange your
igniter, cap, rotor and coil (if internal). This would have saved you a
bundle and probably not caused your idle/stalling problem.
So much for those "cheap" independents!
"R. P." <r_pol12gar@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Z_WdnS-jj_xwv3fcRVn-ow@comcast.com...
> I finally made the move from the expensive Honda dealer service to an
> independent chain specializing in Japanese cars. I have mixed feelings
> about it because it did not cost me less than a typical dealer service,
> but about half the cost was due to a replacement of the distributor
> assembly that cost me $400 even though it was a rebuilt Delco model .
> Is this reasonable? I was told a new original from Honda could cost me
> $500-600. From what I figure a rebuilt one that's not even from Honda,
> should not cost more than about half of the cost of a new Honda brand,
> but what do I know? The reason for replacement was that the oil was
> seeping through it, so it was probably just a bad oil seal.
>
> A smaller problem was in the distributor cap where the center carbon rod
> was burned out and there was not even a solid contact between the top
> and the bottom center. Interestingly though I never noticed any problem
> with ignition before. Now I wonder if I was shown my own original
> distributor cap when I wanted to see it.
>
> The car seems to run better now, especially because they also replaced
> the thermostat that was stuck open before which I believe because the
> temp gage used to show no warming for quite a long time. Now it looks
> normal.
>
> The only thing that is worse now than before is the idling speed (aound
> 700) that seems too low and I stall often during starting. If I recall
> the idle speed used to be around 1,000 RPM before. Is it easy to adjust
> or I'm going to have to make another appointment with that shop?
> The car is a '94 Accord LX.
>
> Rudy
>
>
01-16-2005, 11:04 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Idling speed
"TeGGer®" <tegger@istop.c0m> wrote:
> If the carbon contact was worn that much, then you've not had the cap
> replaced when it should have been replaced.
Strange, because I took the car to every scheduled maintenance job (at
7,500 mile intervals) to the Honda dealer and to oil changes in-between.
I paid a fortune for those maintenance jobs.
I would expect them to take care of such things.
> The ignition system is strong enough to allow a spark to jump that
> gap,
> which is why the car ran OK. Forcing the spark to jump that gap throws
> extra load on other ignition components, perhaps one reason you had a
> distributor failure.
I don't know ... It looked more like an oil seal problem than
electrical one.
> Stalling during starting is a common Honda problem and is unrelated to
> idle
> speed. Please describe exact symptoms.
Interesting, because it did not stall before this maintenance.
The symptom seems to be showing up mostly when I start the car when the
engine is still warm and put the shift from Park to Rear or Forward
gear. That gear shift seems to slow down the idle to the point of
stall. I think I'll take the car to the same shop tomorrow to fix this
because it could be a safety issue if the car stalls as I move into a
main street from a Stop sign.
> The full-warm idle speed in Drive is around 750rpm. In Neutral it'll
> be
> around 1K. When cold it should idle about 1,500-1,700rpm.
This one idles around 1,100 when cold.
> If you're stalling at 700rpm, you've got a different problem.
Perhaps I am mistaking that notch on the odometer for 750 when it's only
500 or 600.
Rudy
> If the carbon contact was worn that much, then you've not had the cap
> replaced when it should have been replaced.
Strange, because I took the car to every scheduled maintenance job (at
7,500 mile intervals) to the Honda dealer and to oil changes in-between.
I paid a fortune for those maintenance jobs.
I would expect them to take care of such things.
> The ignition system is strong enough to allow a spark to jump that
> gap,
> which is why the car ran OK. Forcing the spark to jump that gap throws
> extra load on other ignition components, perhaps one reason you had a
> distributor failure.
I don't know ... It looked more like an oil seal problem than
electrical one.
> Stalling during starting is a common Honda problem and is unrelated to
> idle
> speed. Please describe exact symptoms.
Interesting, because it did not stall before this maintenance.
The symptom seems to be showing up mostly when I start the car when the
engine is still warm and put the shift from Park to Rear or Forward
gear. That gear shift seems to slow down the idle to the point of
stall. I think I'll take the car to the same shop tomorrow to fix this
because it could be a safety issue if the car stalls as I move into a
main street from a Stop sign.
> The full-warm idle speed in Drive is around 750rpm. In Neutral it'll
> be
> around 1K. When cold it should idle about 1,500-1,700rpm.
This one idles around 1,100 when cold.
> If you're stalling at 700rpm, you've got a different problem.
Perhaps I am mistaking that notch on the odometer for 750 when it's only
500 or 600.
Rudy
01-16-2005, 11:04 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Idling speed
"TeGGer®" <tegger@istop.c0m> wrote:
> If the carbon contact was worn that much, then you've not had the cap
> replaced when it should have been replaced.
Strange, because I took the car to every scheduled maintenance job (at
7,500 mile intervals) to the Honda dealer and to oil changes in-between.
I paid a fortune for those maintenance jobs.
I would expect them to take care of such things.
> The ignition system is strong enough to allow a spark to jump that
> gap,
> which is why the car ran OK. Forcing the spark to jump that gap throws
> extra load on other ignition components, perhaps one reason you had a
> distributor failure.
I don't know ... It looked more like an oil seal problem than
electrical one.
> Stalling during starting is a common Honda problem and is unrelated to
> idle
> speed. Please describe exact symptoms.
Interesting, because it did not stall before this maintenance.
The symptom seems to be showing up mostly when I start the car when the
engine is still warm and put the shift from Park to Rear or Forward
gear. That gear shift seems to slow down the idle to the point of
stall. I think I'll take the car to the same shop tomorrow to fix this
because it could be a safety issue if the car stalls as I move into a
main street from a Stop sign.
> The full-warm idle speed in Drive is around 750rpm. In Neutral it'll
> be
> around 1K. When cold it should idle about 1,500-1,700rpm.
This one idles around 1,100 when cold.
> If you're stalling at 700rpm, you've got a different problem.
Perhaps I am mistaking that notch on the odometer for 750 when it's only
500 or 600.
Rudy
> If the carbon contact was worn that much, then you've not had the cap
> replaced when it should have been replaced.
Strange, because I took the car to every scheduled maintenance job (at
7,500 mile intervals) to the Honda dealer and to oil changes in-between.
I paid a fortune for those maintenance jobs.
I would expect them to take care of such things.
> The ignition system is strong enough to allow a spark to jump that
> gap,
> which is why the car ran OK. Forcing the spark to jump that gap throws
> extra load on other ignition components, perhaps one reason you had a
> distributor failure.
I don't know ... It looked more like an oil seal problem than
electrical one.
> Stalling during starting is a common Honda problem and is unrelated to
> idle
> speed. Please describe exact symptoms.
Interesting, because it did not stall before this maintenance.
The symptom seems to be showing up mostly when I start the car when the
engine is still warm and put the shift from Park to Rear or Forward
gear. That gear shift seems to slow down the idle to the point of
stall. I think I'll take the car to the same shop tomorrow to fix this
because it could be a safety issue if the car stalls as I move into a
main street from a Stop sign.
> The full-warm idle speed in Drive is around 750rpm. In Neutral it'll
> be
> around 1K. When cold it should idle about 1,500-1,700rpm.
This one idles around 1,100 when cold.
> If you're stalling at 700rpm, you've got a different problem.
Perhaps I am mistaking that notch on the odometer for 750 when it's only
500 or 600.
Rudy