Ignition timing problem part II :( need help.
 

Hey guys, so this is the story. 99 Nissan Altima with 49,000 miles, failed
the functional part of the smog test in CA because the ignition timing was
12 degree BTDC. The correct timing is 20 degrees.

So I decided to fix it my self. The shop manual I have says that the first
"mark" from the bottom of the pulley is the 20 degree mark so I set it to
that. When I drive the car the engine sounded harsh under acceleration, so
I moved the distributor and got the "mark" aligned to the 2nd mark from the
bottom which seems fine, but the book claims that the 2nd mark from the
bottom in 15 degrees. I really don't know what is wrong. One thing that I
did realized later on is that I am suppose to disconnect the throttle
Position Sensor before I take a measurement with the strobe light. I didn't
do that, do you think that could be my problem? How much of a difference
will that make?
Please help, I'm getting frustrated by this fairly new car.
The bumper to bumper warranty on this car is 3/36, but the powertrain is
4/60, which is still valid. Will this problem fall under the powertrain
warranty?

Thanks in advance. :)

Re: Ignition timing problem part II :( need help.
 

Not disconnecting the throttle position sensor can make a big
difference. The engine control unit will advance or retard the timing
based on a number of factors including throttle position. When you do
the timing adjustment you are creating a base-line from which the ECU
will then do its own adjustments, and it is critical that you follow the
manual very carefully when doing this.

Could it be that the timing was actually correct, and that the
smog-check place also should have disconnected the throttle position
sensor but didn't?

I would think your 4/60 power train warranty would cover this,
particularly since you can show that the car failed emissions.

elmo wrote:
>
> Hey guys, so this is the story. 99 Nissan Altima with 49,000 miles, failed
> the functional part of the smog test in CA because the ignition timing was
> 12 degree BTDC. The correct timing is 20 degrees.
>
> So I decided to fix it my self. The shop manual I have says that the first
> "mark" from the bottom of the pulley is the 20 degree mark so I set it to
> that. When I drive the car the engine sounded harsh under acceleration, so
> I moved the distributor and got the "mark" aligned to the 2nd mark from the
> bottom which seems fine, but the book claims that the 2nd mark from the
> bottom in 15 degrees. I really don't know what is wrong. One thing that I
> did realized later on is that I am suppose to disconnect the throttle
> Position Sensor before I take a measurement with the strobe light. I didn't
> do that, do you think that could be my problem? How much of a difference
> will that make?
> Please help, I'm getting frustrated by this fairly new car.
> The bumper to bumper warranty on this car is 3/36, but the powertrain is
> 4/60, which is still valid. Will this problem fall under the powertrain
> warranty?
>
> Thanks in advance. :)

Re: Ignition timing problem part II :( need help.
 

"elmo" <fake@fake.com> wrote in message
news:wTpPa.23336$Nf.60924@sea-read.news.verio.net...
> Hey guys, so this is the story. 99 Nissan Altima with 49,000 miles,
failed
> the functional part of the smog test in CA because the ignition timing was
> 12 degree BTDC. The correct timing is 20 degrees.
>
> So I decided to fix it my self. The shop manual I have says that the
first
> "mark" from the bottom of the pulley is the 20 degree mark so I set it to
> that. When I drive the car the engine sounded harsh under acceleration,
so

If the engine puuls roughly, its a sure sign the timing is too far advanced
for the octane despite knock-sensing retardation. Whats the fuel quality
like?

20 degrees at idle sounds too much Cab imagine some engines running 12 or
perhaps 15, but no more.

Jason

Re: Ignition timing problem part II :( need help.
 

"Philip®" <chipstate@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:Z4sPa.94969$Io.8168457@newsread2.prod.itd.ear thlink.net...
> Please CLIP all the crossposting!!! What is the use in posting a
> Nissan question to Honda and Toyota forums?

Obviously, it's where the smart people hang out.

:)

Re: Ignition timing problem part II :( need help.
 

To piss people off?



mike hunt



"Philip" wrote:
>
> Please CLIP all the crossposting!!! What is the use in posting a
> Nissan question to Honda and Toyota forums?
> --
>
> Philip
>
> "If a long train of abuses, prevarications, and artifices, all tending
> the same way, make the design visible to the people . tis not to be
> wondered that they should then rouse themselves."
> - John Locke (1632-1704)
>
> elmo wrote:
> > Hey guys, so this is the story. 99 Nissan Altima with 49,000 miles,
> > failed the functional part of the smog test in CA because the
> > ignition timing was 12 degree BTDC. The correct timing is 20
> > degrees.
> >
> > So I decided to fix it my self. The shop manual I have says that the
> > first "mark" from the bottom of the pulley is the 20 degree mark so I
> > set it to that. When I drive the car the engine sounded harsh under
> > acceleration, so I moved the distributor and got the "mark" aligned
> > to the 2nd mark from the bottom which seems fine, but the book claims
> > that the 2nd mark from the bottom in 15 degrees. I really don't know
> > what is wrong. One thing that I did realized later on is that I am
> > suppose to disconnect the throttle Position Sensor before I take a
> > measurement with the strobe light. I didn't do that, do you think
> > that could be my problem? How much of a difference will that make?
> > Please help, I'm getting frustrated by this fairly new car.
> > The bumper to bumper warranty on this car is 3/36, but the powertrain
> > is 4/60, which is still valid. Will this problem fall under the
> > powertrain warranty?
> >
> > Thanks in advance. :)