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-   -   Re: NEVER BUY WALMART'S BATTERIES OR YOU WILL BE SORRY (https://www.gtcarz.com/honda-mailing-list-327/re-never-buy-walmarts-batteries-you-will-sorry-300077/)

larry moe 'n curly 10-16-2007 02:39 AM

Re: NEVER BUY WALMART'S BATTERIES OR YOU WILL BE SORRY
 

Tom wrote:

> Regardless if you used their batteries or not, they won't let you return no
> matter what!! Plus 75% of their batteries will cause your car to have
> faulty Fuel Reading.
>
> There was no clear written "No Return" policy in front of the battery section,
> one of their managers tried to point out to me that there is a No-Return policy,
> I was surprised, later you read it, I did not see any where did it say "No return".
> They just made up their policy as they go these people.
>
> I bought one of their batteries a few days ago, I had never opened its seal nor
> used it. I later discovered that my other battery in my car is fine, something
> was wrong with my car's charging system. Any way, I thought I wouldn't be
> needing this new battery, now I am stuck with their battery.
>
> One more thing to keep in mind, their EverStart batteries (black color)
> had jumpy Current flow, its Current+Voltage will jump from 12.80v to 13.76v,
> also to 15.45volts, this will affect your Fuel Pump meter, you will get
> fluctuated Fuel level reading, because the fuel pressure depends on how
> hard the pump is doing its work.


I've bought about six Wal-mart car batteries, all black ($30 w/ 12/60
warranty, $40 w/ 24/72 warranty), and none failed in less than three
years. I've gotten only one dud battery, a cheap Sears that went dead
in only a few months, but it was made by Johnson Controls, just like
most of my Wal-mart batteries (the $30 Wal-marts were Delco).

I don't understand how voltage that fluctuates from 12.80=15.45V can
affect the accuracy of your fuel guage because the instrument cluster
has its own voltage regulator that probably drops the input to about
10V. And why would such a variation in voltage hurt the fuel delivery
when those voltages are within the normal range for an alternator, and
the fuel system has a pressure regulator that I think should
compensate for changes in pressure?

What do you mean by "Current+Voltage will jump from 12.80v to 13.76v,
also to 15.45v"? Those numbers are voltage only, not current, and
isn't "Current+Voltage" a nonsense term because you can't add volts to
amps?



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