J M

Its much harder to see from a picture that in real life first of all, and
second of all, a picture looking bottom up would be more useful.
In any case, first you'll need to take of the damper fork, then place a
puller so the arms grab onto the lower arm and the point is pushing on the
ball joint bolt (which should have had a castle nut on it previously, I
believe). Once that is off you should be able to finish the job fairly
easily.
John
"LWG" <lgovedi1@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in message
news:e11gb.57190$Of2.2342343@twister.tampabay.rr.c om...
> Can anyone help with this? I am removing my axle to replace the CV joints
> and cannot figure out where to go from here. I have included a picture,
that
> might help...
>
> I need to remove the bottom of the ball joint to slide away the brake
> housing. I don't want to start removing the strut and have it fly out. Can
> someone guide me from here?
>
> thx, Larry
>
>
>

LWG

John, which is the damper fork? Does it bolt to the lower control arm (two
bolts) and run to the front frame? Also, were can I get the puller?

Larry
"J M" <noonehome@nothing.net> wrote in message
news:Hy2gb.22798$cK5.3001@fe1.columbus.rr.com...
> Its much harder to see from a picture that in real life first of all, and
> second of all, a picture looking bottom up would be more useful.
> In any case, first you'll need to take of the damper fork, then place a
> puller so the arms grab onto the lower arm and the point is pushing on the
> ball joint bolt (which should have had a castle nut on it previously, I
> believe). Once that is off you should be able to finish the job fairly
> easily.
> John
> "LWG" <lgovedi1@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:e11gb.57190$Of2.2342343@twister.tampabay.rr.c om...
> > Can anyone help with this? I am removing my axle to replace the CV
joints
> > and cannot figure out where to go from here. I have included a picture,
> that
> > might help...
> >
> > I need to remove the bottom of the ball joint to slide away the brake
> > housing. I don't want to start removing the strut and have it fly out.
Can
> > someone guide me from here?
> >
> > thx, Larry
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>

LWG

John, which is the damper fork? Does it bolt to the lower control arm (two
bolts) and run to the front frame? Also, were can I get the puller?

Larry
"J M" <noonehome@nothing.net> wrote in message
news:Hy2gb.22798$cK5.3001@fe1.columbus.rr.com...
> Its much harder to see from a picture that in real life first of all, and
> second of all, a picture looking bottom up would be more useful.
> In any case, first you'll need to take of the damper fork, then place a
> puller so the arms grab onto the lower arm and the point is pushing on the
> ball joint bolt (which should have had a castle nut on it previously, I
> believe). Once that is off you should be able to finish the job fairly
> easily.
> John
> "LWG" <lgovedi1@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:e11gb.57190$Of2.2342343@twister.tampabay.rr.c om...
> > Can anyone help with this? I am removing my axle to replace the CV
joints
> > and cannot figure out where to go from here. I have included a picture,
> that
> > might help...
> >
> > I need to remove the bottom of the ball joint to slide away the brake
> > housing. I don't want to start removing the strut and have it fly out.
Can
> > someone guide me from here?
> >
> > thx, Larry
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>

LWG

John, which is the damper fork? Does it bolt to the lower control arm (two
bolts) and run to the front frame? Also, were can I get the puller?

Larry
"J M" <noonehome@nothing.net> wrote in message
news:Hy2gb.22798$cK5.3001@fe1.columbus.rr.com...
> Its much harder to see from a picture that in real life first of all, and
> second of all, a picture looking bottom up would be more useful.
> In any case, first you'll need to take of the damper fork, then place a
> puller so the arms grab onto the lower arm and the point is pushing on the
> ball joint bolt (which should have had a castle nut on it previously, I
> believe). Once that is off you should be able to finish the job fairly
> easily.
> John
> "LWG" <lgovedi1@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:e11gb.57190$Of2.2342343@twister.tampabay.rr.c om...
> > Can anyone help with this? I am removing my axle to replace the CV
joints
> > and cannot figure out where to go from here. I have included a picture,
> that
> > might help...
> >
> > I need to remove the bottom of the ball joint to slide away the brake
> > housing. I don't want to start removing the strut and have it fly out.
Can
> > someone guide me from here?
> >
> > thx, Larry
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>

Eric

LWG wrote:
>
> John, which is the damper fork? Does it bolt to the lower control arm (two
> bolts) and run to the front frame?

It connects the end of the strut to the lower control arm. There's a bolt which
clamps it to the strut and there's a long bolt which connects it to the lower
control arm. Put a coat of antiseize on all of the suspension bolts before
reassembly to prevent future headaches. I like to use the copper based
antiseize though I'm sure opinions on this will vary.

> Also, were can I get the puller?

On some Hondas, you can actually remove the axle without pulling the lower ball
joint. However, you'll need to disconnect the control arm at the inner pivot
bolt as well as disconnect anything else that connects to the lower control are
such as the torque rod and sway bar. This will allow the same net effect as
disconnecting the ball joint, i.e., you can pivot the steering knuckle out such
that the axle can be removed. Note though, that it's easier to pull the ball
joint. My favorite tool to use is one of these
http://www.stahlwille.com/0095.jpg though it is a bit expensive. You can get by
with a pickle fork. However, that will usually tear the ball joint boot in the
process of disconnecting it and the boot will have to be replaced or the joint
will fail prematurely. Another option is to use a long pry bar to pop the joint
loose after the castle nut has been removed.

Eric

Eric

LWG wrote:
>
> John, which is the damper fork? Does it bolt to the lower control arm (two
> bolts) and run to the front frame?

It connects the end of the strut to the lower control arm. There's a bolt which
clamps it to the strut and there's a long bolt which connects it to the lower
control arm. Put a coat of antiseize on all of the suspension bolts before
reassembly to prevent future headaches. I like to use the copper based
antiseize though I'm sure opinions on this will vary.

> Also, were can I get the puller?

On some Hondas, you can actually remove the axle without pulling the lower ball
joint. However, you'll need to disconnect the control arm at the inner pivot
bolt as well as disconnect anything else that connects to the lower control are
such as the torque rod and sway bar. This will allow the same net effect as
disconnecting the ball joint, i.e., you can pivot the steering knuckle out such
that the axle can be removed. Note though, that it's easier to pull the ball
joint. My favorite tool to use is one of these
http://www.stahlwille.com/0095.jpg though it is a bit expensive. You can get by
with a pickle fork. However, that will usually tear the ball joint boot in the
process of disconnecting it and the boot will have to be replaced or the joint
will fail prematurely. Another option is to use a long pry bar to pop the joint
loose after the castle nut has been removed.

Eric

Eric

LWG wrote:
>
> John, which is the damper fork? Does it bolt to the lower control arm (two
> bolts) and run to the front frame?

It connects the end of the strut to the lower control arm. There's a bolt which
clamps it to the strut and there's a long bolt which connects it to the lower
control arm. Put a coat of antiseize on all of the suspension bolts before
reassembly to prevent future headaches. I like to use the copper based
antiseize though I'm sure opinions on this will vary.

> Also, were can I get the puller?

On some Hondas, you can actually remove the axle without pulling the lower ball
joint. However, you'll need to disconnect the control arm at the inner pivot
bolt as well as disconnect anything else that connects to the lower control are
such as the torque rod and sway bar. This will allow the same net effect as
disconnecting the ball joint, i.e., you can pivot the steering knuckle out such
that the axle can be removed. Note though, that it's easier to pull the ball
joint. My favorite tool to use is one of these
http://www.stahlwille.com/0095.jpg though it is a bit expensive. You can get by
with a pickle fork. However, that will usually tear the ball joint boot in the
process of disconnecting it and the boot will have to be replaced or the joint
will fail prematurely. Another option is to use a long pry bar to pop the joint
loose after the castle nut has been removed.

Eric

LWG

Eric, awesome suggestions. I think I will find the tool, then use that
instead of the fork. I have hit it about 20 times and nothing has budged. I
also need to pull that bolt at the bottom first. Thank you for these tips...

Larry


"Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:3F814139.9B0594CB@spam.now...
> LWG wrote:
> >
> > John, which is the damper fork? Does it bolt to the lower control arm
(two
> > bolts) and run to the front frame?
>
> It connects the end of the strut to the lower control arm. There's a bolt
which
> clamps it to the strut and there's a long bolt which connects it to the
lower
> control arm. Put a coat of antiseize on all of the suspension bolts
before
> reassembly to prevent future headaches. I like to use the copper based
> antiseize though I'm sure opinions on this will vary.
>
> > Also, were can I get the puller?
>
> On some Hondas, you can actually remove the axle without pulling the lower
ball
> joint. However, you'll need to disconnect the control arm at the inner
pivot
> bolt as well as disconnect anything else that connects to the lower
control are
> such as the torque rod and sway bar. This will allow the same net effect
as
> disconnecting the ball joint, i.e., you can pivot the steering knuckle out
such
> that the axle can be removed. Note though, that it's easier to pull the
ball
> joint. My favorite tool to use is one of these
> http://www.stahlwille.com/0095.jpg though it is a bit expensive. You can
get by
> with a pickle fork. However, that will usually tear the ball joint boot
in the
> process of disconnecting it and the boot will have to be replaced or the
joint
> will fail prematurely. Another option is to use a long pry bar to pop the
joint
> loose after the castle nut has been removed.
>
> Eric

LWG

Eric, awesome suggestions. I think I will find the tool, then use that
instead of the fork. I have hit it about 20 times and nothing has budged. I
also need to pull that bolt at the bottom first. Thank you for these tips...

Larry


"Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:3F814139.9B0594CB@spam.now...
> LWG wrote:
> >
> > John, which is the damper fork? Does it bolt to the lower control arm
(two
> > bolts) and run to the front frame?
>
> It connects the end of the strut to the lower control arm. There's a bolt
which
> clamps it to the strut and there's a long bolt which connects it to the
lower
> control arm. Put a coat of antiseize on all of the suspension bolts
before
> reassembly to prevent future headaches. I like to use the copper based
> antiseize though I'm sure opinions on this will vary.
>
> > Also, were can I get the puller?
>
> On some Hondas, you can actually remove the axle without pulling the lower
ball
> joint. However, you'll need to disconnect the control arm at the inner
pivot
> bolt as well as disconnect anything else that connects to the lower
control are
> such as the torque rod and sway bar. This will allow the same net effect
as
> disconnecting the ball joint, i.e., you can pivot the steering knuckle out
such
> that the axle can be removed. Note though, that it's easier to pull the
ball
> joint. My favorite tool to use is one of these
> http://www.stahlwille.com/0095.jpg though it is a bit expensive. You can
get by
> with a pickle fork. However, that will usually tear the ball joint boot
in the
> process of disconnecting it and the boot will have to be replaced or the
joint
> will fail prematurely. Another option is to use a long pry bar to pop the
joint
> loose after the castle nut has been removed.
>
> Eric

LWG

Eric, awesome suggestions. I think I will find the tool, then use that
instead of the fork. I have hit it about 20 times and nothing has budged. I
also need to pull that bolt at the bottom first. Thank you for these tips...

Larry


"Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:3F814139.9B0594CB@spam.now...
> LWG wrote:
> >
> > John, which is the damper fork? Does it bolt to the lower control arm
(two
> > bolts) and run to the front frame?
>
> It connects the end of the strut to the lower control arm. There's a bolt
which
> clamps it to the strut and there's a long bolt which connects it to the
lower
> control arm. Put a coat of antiseize on all of the suspension bolts
before
> reassembly to prevent future headaches. I like to use the copper based
> antiseize though I'm sure opinions on this will vary.
>
> > Also, were can I get the puller?
>
> On some Hondas, you can actually remove the axle without pulling the lower
ball
> joint. However, you'll need to disconnect the control arm at the inner
pivot
> bolt as well as disconnect anything else that connects to the lower
control are
> such as the torque rod and sway bar. This will allow the same net effect
as
> disconnecting the ball joint, i.e., you can pivot the steering knuckle out
such
> that the axle can be removed. Note though, that it's easier to pull the
ball
> joint. My favorite tool to use is one of these
> http://www.stahlwille.com/0095.jpg though it is a bit expensive. You can
get by
> with a pickle fork. However, that will usually tear the ball joint boot
in the
> process of disconnecting it and the boot will have to be replaced or the
joint
> will fail prematurely. Another option is to use a long pry bar to pop the
joint
> loose after the castle nut has been removed.
>
> Eric

LWG

OK I understand. Really I was worried about something flying apart (the
strut/shock). What I will do is remove the bottom bolt first and then try to
pop out the ball joint...

Thx I really appreciate your help.


"J M" <noonehome@nothing.net> wrote in message
news:n1hgb.28919$KJ5.16903@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
> I think that you are slightly confused. I've included a marked up version
> of the picture you sent. The damper fork is a part that is on the car
> already and that needs to be removed. I have circled the visible part in
> black, and then traced its path in white. The two circles are where the
two
> bolts are at.
>
> >It connects the end of the strut to the lower control arm. There's a
bolt
> which
> >clamps it to the strut and there's a long bolt which connects it to the
> lower
> >control arm. Put a coat of antiseize on all of the suspension bolts
before
> >reassembly to prevent future headaches. I like to use the copper based
> >antiseize though I'm sure opinions on this will vary.
>
> These are the same bolts Eric was talking about, and putting antiseize on
(I
> use a type of bearing grease) is a very good idea. Also, the bolts
holding
> the fork on may be rusty and hard to get off, so you may wish to spray
some
> wd40 on them. If you're going to do that, you might want to be careful no
> to get any on the rotor, or you'll have to clean that up as well.
>
>
http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/nc...ag=PR&START=51
> Is the puller (serial #2296 in case the link doesnt work) I used which I
got
> for 40$ at NAPA, and comes with a very useful lifetime guarantee. The
green
> circles on the picture indicate where the arms should go (at least for me)
> while the point of the bolt should go on the ball joibt bolt at the
bottom.
> Note that you must be careful to make sure that the two bolts (puller/ball
> joint) need to be kept in line while applying force or you will run a good
> chance of "belling" the ball joint bolt (if it has the holes for the
cotter
> pins that mine did).
>
> John
>
> "LWG" <lgovedi1@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:6Rbgb.49708$ZR1.8129@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
> > Eric, awesome suggestions. I think I will find the tool, then use that
> > instead of the fork. I have hit it about 20 times and nothing has
budged.
> I
> > also need to pull that bolt at the bottom first. Thank you for these
> tips...
> >
> > Larry
> >
> >
> > "Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message
> news:3F814139.9B0594CB@spam.now...
> > > LWG wrote:
> > > >
> > > > John, which is the damper fork? Does it bolt to the lower control
arm
> > (two
> > > > bolts) and run to the front frame?
> > >
> > > It connects the end of the strut to the lower control arm. There's a
> bolt
> > which
> > > clamps it to the strut and there's a long bolt which connects it to
the
> > lower
> > > control arm. Put a coat of antiseize on all of the suspension bolts
> > before
> > > reassembly to prevent future headaches. I like to use the copper
based
> > > antiseize though I'm sure opinions on this will vary.
> > >
> > > > Also, were can I get the puller?
> > >
> > > On some Hondas, you can actually remove the axle without pulling the
> lower
> > ball
> > > joint. However, you'll need to disconnect the control arm at the
inner
> > pivot
> > > bolt as well as disconnect anything else that connects to the lower
> > control are
> > > such as the torque rod and sway bar. This will allow the same net
> effect
> > as
> > > disconnecting the ball joint, i.e., you can pivot the steering knuckle
> out
> > such
> > > that the axle can be removed. Note though, that it's easier to pull
the
> > ball
> > > joint. My favorite tool to use is one of these
> > > http://www.stahlwille.com/0095.jpg though it is a bit expensive. You
> can
> > get by
> > > with a pickle fork. However, that will usually tear the ball joint
boot
> > in the
> > > process of disconnecting it and the boot will have to be replaced or
the
> > joint
> > > will fail prematurely. Another option is to use a long pry bar to pop
> the
> > joint
> > > loose after the castle nut has been removed.
> > >
> > > Eric
> >
> >
>
>
>

LWG

OK I understand. Really I was worried about something flying apart (the
strut/shock). What I will do is remove the bottom bolt first and then try to
pop out the ball joint...

Thx I really appreciate your help.


"J M" <noonehome@nothing.net> wrote in message
news:n1hgb.28919$KJ5.16903@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
> I think that you are slightly confused. I've included a marked up version
> of the picture you sent. The damper fork is a part that is on the car
> already and that needs to be removed. I have circled the visible part in
> black, and then traced its path in white. The two circles are where the
two
> bolts are at.
>
> >It connects the end of the strut to the lower control arm. There's a
bolt
> which
> >clamps it to the strut and there's a long bolt which connects it to the
> lower
> >control arm. Put a coat of antiseize on all of the suspension bolts
before
> >reassembly to prevent future headaches. I like to use the copper based
> >antiseize though I'm sure opinions on this will vary.
>
> These are the same bolts Eric was talking about, and putting antiseize on
(I
> use a type of bearing grease) is a very good idea. Also, the bolts
holding
> the fork on may be rusty and hard to get off, so you may wish to spray
some
> wd40 on them. If you're going to do that, you might want to be careful no
> to get any on the rotor, or you'll have to clean that up as well.
>
>
http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/nc...ag=PR&START=51
> Is the puller (serial #2296 in case the link doesnt work) I used which I
got
> for 40$ at NAPA, and comes with a very useful lifetime guarantee. The
green
> circles on the picture indicate where the arms should go (at least for me)
> while the point of the bolt should go on the ball joibt bolt at the
bottom.
> Note that you must be careful to make sure that the two bolts (puller/ball
> joint) need to be kept in line while applying force or you will run a good
> chance of "belling" the ball joint bolt (if it has the holes for the
cotter
> pins that mine did).
>
> John
>
> "LWG" <lgovedi1@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:6Rbgb.49708$ZR1.8129@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
> > Eric, awesome suggestions. I think I will find the tool, then use that
> > instead of the fork. I have hit it about 20 times and nothing has
budged.
> I
> > also need to pull that bolt at the bottom first. Thank you for these
> tips...
> >
> > Larry
> >
> >
> > "Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message
> news:3F814139.9B0594CB@spam.now...
> > > LWG wrote:
> > > >
> > > > John, which is the damper fork? Does it bolt to the lower control
arm
> > (two
> > > > bolts) and run to the front frame?
> > >
> > > It connects the end of the strut to the lower control arm. There's a
> bolt
> > which
> > > clamps it to the strut and there's a long bolt which connects it to
the
> > lower
> > > control arm. Put a coat of antiseize on all of the suspension bolts
> > before
> > > reassembly to prevent future headaches. I like to use the copper
based
> > > antiseize though I'm sure opinions on this will vary.
> > >
> > > > Also, were can I get the puller?
> > >
> > > On some Hondas, you can actually remove the axle without pulling the
> lower
> > ball
> > > joint. However, you'll need to disconnect the control arm at the
inner
> > pivot
> > > bolt as well as disconnect anything else that connects to the lower
> > control are
> > > such as the torque rod and sway bar. This will allow the same net
> effect
> > as
> > > disconnecting the ball joint, i.e., you can pivot the steering knuckle
> out
> > such
> > > that the axle can be removed. Note though, that it's easier to pull
the
> > ball
> > > joint. My favorite tool to use is one of these
> > > http://www.stahlwille.com/0095.jpg though it is a bit expensive. You
> can
> > get by
> > > with a pickle fork. However, that will usually tear the ball joint
boot
> > in the
> > > process of disconnecting it and the boot will have to be replaced or
the
> > joint
> > > will fail prematurely. Another option is to use a long pry bar to pop
> the
> > joint
> > > loose after the castle nut has been removed.
> > >
> > > Eric
> >
> >
>
>
>

LWG

OK I understand. Really I was worried about something flying apart (the
strut/shock). What I will do is remove the bottom bolt first and then try to
pop out the ball joint...

Thx I really appreciate your help.


"J M" <noonehome@nothing.net> wrote in message
news:n1hgb.28919$KJ5.16903@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
> I think that you are slightly confused. I've included a marked up version
> of the picture you sent. The damper fork is a part that is on the car
> already and that needs to be removed. I have circled the visible part in
> black, and then traced its path in white. The two circles are where the
two
> bolts are at.
>
> >It connects the end of the strut to the lower control arm. There's a
bolt
> which
> >clamps it to the strut and there's a long bolt which connects it to the
> lower
> >control arm. Put a coat of antiseize on all of the suspension bolts
before
> >reassembly to prevent future headaches. I like to use the copper based
> >antiseize though I'm sure opinions on this will vary.
>
> These are the same bolts Eric was talking about, and putting antiseize on
(I
> use a type of bearing grease) is a very good idea. Also, the bolts
holding
> the fork on may be rusty and hard to get off, so you may wish to spray
some
> wd40 on them. If you're going to do that, you might want to be careful no
> to get any on the rotor, or you'll have to clean that up as well.
>
>
http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/nc...ag=PR&START=51
> Is the puller (serial #2296 in case the link doesnt work) I used which I
got
> for 40$ at NAPA, and comes with a very useful lifetime guarantee. The
green
> circles on the picture indicate where the arms should go (at least for me)
> while the point of the bolt should go on the ball joibt bolt at the
bottom.
> Note that you must be careful to make sure that the two bolts (puller/ball
> joint) need to be kept in line while applying force or you will run a good
> chance of "belling" the ball joint bolt (if it has the holes for the
cotter
> pins that mine did).
>
> John
>
> "LWG" <lgovedi1@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:6Rbgb.49708$ZR1.8129@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
> > Eric, awesome suggestions. I think I will find the tool, then use that
> > instead of the fork. I have hit it about 20 times and nothing has
budged.
> I
> > also need to pull that bolt at the bottom first. Thank you for these
> tips...
> >
> > Larry
> >
> >
> > "Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message
> news:3F814139.9B0594CB@spam.now...
> > > LWG wrote:
> > > >
> > > > John, which is the damper fork? Does it bolt to the lower control
arm
> > (two
> > > > bolts) and run to the front frame?
> > >
> > > It connects the end of the strut to the lower control arm. There's a
> bolt
> > which
> > > clamps it to the strut and there's a long bolt which connects it to
the
> > lower
> > > control arm. Put a coat of antiseize on all of the suspension bolts
> > before
> > > reassembly to prevent future headaches. I like to use the copper
based
> > > antiseize though I'm sure opinions on this will vary.
> > >
> > > > Also, were can I get the puller?
> > >
> > > On some Hondas, you can actually remove the axle without pulling the
> lower
> > ball
> > > joint. However, you'll need to disconnect the control arm at the
inner
> > pivot
> > > bolt as well as disconnect anything else that connects to the lower
> > control are
> > > such as the torque rod and sway bar. This will allow the same net
> effect
> > as
> > > disconnecting the ball joint, i.e., you can pivot the steering knuckle
> out
> > such
> > > that the axle can be removed. Note though, that it's easier to pull
the
> > ball
> > > joint. My favorite tool to use is one of these
> > > http://www.stahlwille.com/0095.jpg though it is a bit expensive. You
> can
> > get by
> > > with a pickle fork. However, that will usually tear the ball joint
boot
> > in the
> > > process of disconnecting it and the boot will have to be replaced or
the
> > joint
> > > will fail prematurely. Another option is to use a long pry bar to pop
> the
> > joint
> > > loose after the castle nut has been removed.
> > >
> > > Eric
> >
> >
>
>
>