Replacing radiator fluid in 2001 Civic
I have a 2001 Honda Civic and need to drain and fill my radiator. I
have read some tutorials but have a few questions: 1) Some have advised draining the radiator, then filling with distilled water and running for a while, then draining the water and filling with coolant. However, if I put water in, won't that get circulated into the engine block? If so, when I refill the radiator with my pre-mixed 50/50 coolant (comes this way from Honda), then my coolant in the system will be super diluted as it mixes with the water I introduced into the engine block. Am I missing something here? 2) If the car has a bleeder valve (not sure if it does, I'll have to check), how does it work? Do I simply open the valve while filling the radiator while the car is off? Or do I fill the radiator, close the radiator cap, then open the valve while the engine is running? 3) If I do the bleeding method where I open the cap and run the engine, do I simply observe the fluid in the radiator while the engine is heating up, and pour coolant in as the level drops, WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING? At what point do I need to worry that the coolant will get so hot that steam blows my head off? Or does this not happen since I'm running the engine with the cap off, preventing a pressure buildup? |
Re: Replacing radiator fluid in 2001 Civic
martin lynch wrote:
> I have a 2001 Honda Civic and need to drain and fill my radiator. I > have read some tutorials but have a few questions: > > 1) Some have advised draining the radiator, then filling with > distilled water and running for a while, then draining the water and > filling with coolant. However, if I put water in, won't that get > circulated into the engine block? If so, when I refill the radiator > with my pre-mixed 50/50 coolant (comes this way from Honda), then my > coolant in the system will be super diluted as it mixes with the water > I introduced into the engine block. Am I missing something here? no, you're correct. i wouldn't call it "super diluted" but it's definitely weaker than normal. you can top up with undiluted antifreeze to get the right mix if this worries you. > > 2) If the car has a bleeder valve (not sure if it does, I'll have to > check), how does it work? Do I simply open the valve while filling the > radiator while the car is off? Or do I fill the radiator, close the > radiator cap, then open the valve while the engine is running? the latter. > > 3) If I do the bleeding method where I open the cap and run the > engine, do I simply observe the fluid in the radiator while the engine > is heating up, and pour coolant in as the level drops, WHILE THE > ENGINE IS RUNNING? At what point do I need to worry that the coolant > will get so hot that steam blows my head off? Or does this not happen > since I'm running the engine with the cap off, preventing a pressure > buildup? fill as much as you can with the engine off. squeezing the bottom hose helps a lot. then run and bleed air with the valve - if you have one. if not, simply overfill the expansion bottle, run, then let cool overnight. contraction on cooling will suck the fluid you need back into the radiator, provided you have no air leaks. other tips on effective drain include unscrewing the plug on the block to let all that fluid out too, and keeping the cabin heater valve open so that drains as much as possible also. |
Re: Replacing radiator fluid in 2001 Civic
"martin lynch" <odiegoogle@yahoo.com> wrote
>I have a 2001 Honda Civic and need to drain and fill my >radiator. I > have read some tutorials but have a few questions: Do you have an owner's manual? Follow its steps exactly and you will be fine. Post back if you want a site that has free online owner's manual. > 1) Some have advised draining the radiator, then filling > with > distilled water and running for a while, then draining the > water and > filling with coolant. However, if I put water in, won't > that get > circulated into the engine block? If so, when I refill the > radiator > with my pre-mixed 50/50 coolant (comes this way from > Honda), then my > coolant in the system will be super diluted as it mixes > with the water > I introduced into the engine block. Am I missing something > here? Like Jim said, you are correct. With a lot of study of the owner's manual coolant capacities commentary, one can figure out how to mix the anti-freeze to make up for the diluted water. On the other hand, it is not a big deal to skip your proposed flush, let a little old coolant stay in the engine block, and add new coolant. Coolant chemistry has come a long way. As long as you follow the maintenance schedule for changing coolant, all will be fine. > 2) If the car has a bleeder valve (not sure if it does, > I'll have to > check), how does it work? Your Civic does not have a bleeder valve. The procedure uses the simple "burp" approach to purge air from the cooling system via the top of the radiator (when filling) and via the top of the radiator and out the reserve tank during operations. Caveats: 1. Use Honda OEM coolant. Or you can try orange Havoline. Orange Havoline comes both pre-mixed and undiluted. A few of us here have been using the orange havoline for years and are quite happy with it. 2. Remember there is a difference between the radiator drain plug and the engine drain bolt. Both are going to come off to properly drain the system. Do get a new washer for the engine drain bolt. Buy non-hardening sealant (per the directions in the owner's manual). Permatex makes such a sealant and it specifically says it is good for the cooling system. You can get it at Autozone. 3. One of the most important steps for ensuring a good purge of air is making sure the radiator fan comes on twice. This may take 40 minutes or more of the car idling, so have a magazine and chair. > 3) If I do the bleeding method where I open the cap and > run the > engine, do I simply observe the fluid in the radiator > while the engine > is heating up, and pour coolant in as the level drops, > WHILE THE > ENGINE IS RUNNING? At what point do I need to worry that > the coolant > will get so hot that steam blows my head off? Or does > this not happen > since I'm running the engine with the cap off, preventing > a pressure > buildup? Correct, no pressure buildup with the cap off. Steam from an open container is not going to exert any meaningful pressure. Perhaps you are thinking of how some foolish people take off the radiator cap /after/ the system is hot and pressurized. Then a mixture of hot coolant and steam will blow the cap off and create a dangerous momentary gusher as the person removes it. |
Re: Replacing radiator fluid in 2001 Civic
Elle wrote:
> "martin lynch" <odiegoogle@yahoo.com> wrote >> I have a 2001 Honda Civic and need to drain and fill my >> radiator. I >> have read some tutorials but have a few questions: > > Do you have an owner's manual? Follow its steps exactly and > you will be fine. Post back if you want a site that has free > online owner's manual. > >> 1) Some have advised draining the radiator, then filling >> with >> distilled water and running for a while, then draining the >> water and >> filling with coolant. However, if I put water in, won't >> that get >> circulated into the engine block? If so, when I refill the >> radiator >> with my pre-mixed 50/50 coolant (comes this way from >> Honda), then my >> coolant in the system will be super diluted as it mixes >> with the water >> I introduced into the engine block. Am I missing something >> here? > > Like Jim said, you are correct. With a lot of study of the > owner's manual coolant capacities commentary, one can figure > out how to mix the anti-freeze to make up for the diluted > water. > > On the other hand, it is not a big deal to skip your > proposed flush, let a little old coolant stay in the engine > block, and add new coolant. > > Coolant chemistry has come a long way. As long as you follow > the maintenance schedule for changing coolant, all will be > fine. > >> 2) If the car has a bleeder valve (not sure if it does, >> I'll have to >> check), how does it work? > > Your Civic does not have a bleeder valve. The procedure uses > the simple "burp" approach to purge air from the cooling > system via the top of the radiator (when filling) and via > the top of the radiator and out the reserve tank during > operations. > > Caveats: > 1. > Use Honda OEM coolant. Or you can try orange Havoline. > Orange Havoline comes both pre-mixed and undiluted. A few of > us here have been using the orange havoline for years and > are quite happy with it. > > 2. > Remember there is a difference between the radiator drain > plug and the engine drain bolt. Both are going to come off > to properly drain the system. Do get a new washer for the > engine drain bolt. Buy non-hardening sealant (per the > directions in the owner's manual). Permatex makes such a > sealant and it specifically says it is good for the cooling > system. You can get it at Autozone. yes. make sure it's NOT the silicone sealant. most auto shops have tons and tons of silicone sealants, and just one non-silicone. easy to get confused. > > 3. > One of the most important steps for ensuring a good purge of > air is making sure the radiator fan comes on twice. This may > take 40 minutes or more of the car idling, so have a > magazine and chair. > > >> 3) If I do the bleeding method where I open the cap and >> run the >> engine, do I simply observe the fluid in the radiator >> while the engine >> is heating up, and pour coolant in as the level drops, >> WHILE THE >> ENGINE IS RUNNING? At what point do I need to worry that >> the coolant >> will get so hot that steam blows my head off? Or does >> this not happen >> since I'm running the engine with the cap off, preventing >> a pressure >> buildup? > > > Correct, no pressure buildup with the cap off. Steam from an > open container is not going to exert any meaningful > pressure. Perhaps you are thinking of how some foolish > people take off the radiator cap /after/ the system is hot > and pressurized. Then a mixture of hot coolant and steam > will blow the cap off and create a dangerous momentary > gusher as the person removes it. > > |
Re: Replacing radiator fluid in 2001 Civic
martin lynch <odiegoogle@yahoo.com> wrote in news:cb1ca0fd-465a-4e29-
8222-03cf02df402b@y79g2000hsa.googlegroups.com: > I have a 2001 Honda Civic and need to drain and fill my radiator. I > have read some tutorials but have a few questions: > > 1) Some have advised draining the radiator, then filling with > distilled water and running for a while, then draining the water and > filling with coolant. However, if I put water in, won't that get > circulated into the engine block? If so, when I refill the radiator > with my pre-mixed 50/50 coolant (comes this way from Honda), then my > coolant in the system will be super diluted as it mixes with the water > I introduced into the engine block. Am I missing something here? You MUST drain the block as well as the rad. The block has its own drain plug. DO NOT just drain the rad. DO NOT fill the system with water and run it. With block and rad drains open, run water from garden hose into rad until drains run clear. Allow water to drain, then close drains. If you need to capture /all/ flush water, open block drain only, place large container on ground. Feed water in thru rad neck. When block drain runs clear, allow it to empty, but leave open. Move catch container. Open rad drain. More water thru rad neck until rad runs clear. Now close both drains. Don't feed water thru rad too hard during this step, or else it will come out thru block drain as well. > > 2) If the car has a bleeder valve (not sure if it does, I'll have to > check), how does it work? Do I simply open the valve while filling the > radiator while the car is off? Or do I fill the radiator, close the > radiator cap, then open the valve while the engine is running? No bleeder valve. Fill system thru rad filler neck. Leave cap off. Start engine. "Burp" upper rad hose to help free bubbles. Add as needed thru rad neck until the level no longer drops but rises and begins to spill out of neck. Put cap back. Make sure reservoir is filled to MAX. Allow car to idle until rad fan comes on twice (WATCH DASHBOARD GAUGE!). Shut engine off and allow to cool fully (two hrs or more) . Add coolant to reservoir back to MAX mark. Check rad to make certain level is still up to top with no air present. Watch reservoir level after next few drives. Add as necessary until it stops dropping. > > 3) If I do the bleeding method where I open the cap and run the > engine, do I simply observe the fluid in the radiator while the engine > is heating up, and pour coolant in as the level drops, WHILE THE > ENGINE IS RUNNING? At what point do I need to worry that the coolant > will get so hot that steam blows my head off? Or does this not happen > since I'm running the engine with the cap off, preventing a pressure > buildup? See above. -- Tegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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