Re: Short Circuits troubleshooting
 

Cracker Jacks wrote:

> I am trying to track down a problem in a car. A fuse keeps blowing. It is my
> understanding one way to do this is to remove the fuse and place a test
> buzzer/light in the connections in the fuse spot. With all circuits closed,
> I should have no power going through this fuse location. If I have power
> there is a short is this correct? I understand power is coming from the
> battery to one side of the fuse, but unless there is a "ground" there should
> be no power going through it correct? How does that work exactly. Please
> keep it as simple as possible. Thanks in advance.

The other responders posts are very good suggestions about using a lamp
bulb where the fuse goes to help find the short.

I have a question. Which fuse is blowing? If it is your dash lights that are
out,
I suspect that you just lately installed a radio, tape, or CD player.

ARM

Re: Short Circuits troubleshooting
 

Cracker Jacks wrote:

> I am trying to track down a problem in a car. A fuse keeps blowing. It is my
> understanding one way to do this is to remove the fuse and place a test
> buzzer/light in the connections in the fuse spot. With all circuits closed,
> I should have no power going through this fuse location. If I have power
> there is a short is this correct? I understand power is coming from the
> battery to one side of the fuse, but unless there is a "ground" there should
> be no power going through it correct? How does that work exactly. Please
> keep it as simple as possible. Thanks in advance.

The other responders posts are very good suggestions about using a lamp
bulb where the fuse goes to help find the short.

I have a question. Which fuse is blowing? If it is your dash lights that are
out,
I suspect that you just lately installed a radio, tape, or CD player.

ARM

Re: Short Circuits troubleshooting
 

>car...fuse keeps blowing
>Cracker Jacks

If it doesn't make itself obvious, get a Xerox of your car's electrical diagram
out of National Service Data (best diagrams IMO) at your library.

Some stuff is not logical.
Mine has dome lights on the same circuit as radio memory / clock.
(You'd never know it looking at the fuse block.)

Re: Short Circuits troubleshooting
 

>car...fuse keeps blowing
>Cracker Jacks

If it doesn't make itself obvious, get a Xerox of your car's electrical diagram
out of National Service Data (best diagrams IMO) at your library.

Some stuff is not logical.
Mine has dome lights on the same circuit as radio memory / clock.
(You'd never know it looking at the fuse block.)

Re: Short Circuits troubleshooting
 

>car...fuse keeps blowing
>Cracker Jacks

If it doesn't make itself obvious, get a Xerox of your car's electrical diagram
out of National Service Data (best diagrams IMO) at your library.

Some stuff is not logical.
Mine has dome lights on the same circuit as radio memory / clock.
(You'd never know it looking at the fuse block.)

Re: Short Circuits troubleshooting
 

>car...fuse keeps blowing
>Cracker Jacks

If it doesn't make itself obvious, get a Xerox of your car's electrical diagram
out of National Service Data (best diagrams IMO) at your library.

Some stuff is not logical.
Mine has dome lights on the same circuit as radio memory / clock.
(You'd never know it looking at the fuse block.)

Re: Short Circuits troubleshooting
 

No actually it is a 20a fuse under the hood in the engine compartment. The
fuse is for Horn, Stop and seat belt retract. It's part of the brake warning
system. Leads to a brake safety warning sensor (light bulb out ect). The
brake lights will not work with the fuse removed. The fuse does not blow
with the left sensor removed, but with the left senor removed, I have no
left brake light.


"Alan McClure" <mcclures@gwis.com> wrote in message
news:3FC23939.A23823D2@gwis.com...
>
>
> Cracker Jacks wrote:
>
> > I am trying to track down a problem in a car. A fuse keeps blowing. It
is my
> > understanding one way to do this is to remove the fuse and place a test
> > buzzer/light in the connections in the fuse spot. With all circuits
closed,
> > I should have no power going through this fuse location. If I have power
> > there is a short is this correct? I understand power is coming from the
> > battery to one side of the fuse, but unless there is a "ground" there
should
> > be no power going through it correct? How does that work exactly. Please
> > keep it as simple as possible. Thanks in advance.
>
> The other responders posts are very good suggestions about using a lamp
> bulb where the fuse goes to help find the short.
>
> I have a question. Which fuse is blowing? If it is your dash lights that
are
> out,
> I suspect that you just lately installed a radio, tape, or CD player.
>
> ARM
>
>
>

Re: Short Circuits troubleshooting
 

No actually it is a 20a fuse under the hood in the engine compartment. The
fuse is for Horn, Stop and seat belt retract. It's part of the brake warning
system. Leads to a brake safety warning sensor (light bulb out ect). The
brake lights will not work with the fuse removed. The fuse does not blow
with the left sensor removed, but with the left senor removed, I have no
left brake light.


"Alan McClure" <mcclures@gwis.com> wrote in message
news:3FC23939.A23823D2@gwis.com...
>
>
> Cracker Jacks wrote:
>
> > I am trying to track down a problem in a car. A fuse keeps blowing. It
is my
> > understanding one way to do this is to remove the fuse and place a test
> > buzzer/light in the connections in the fuse spot. With all circuits
closed,
> > I should have no power going through this fuse location. If I have power
> > there is a short is this correct? I understand power is coming from the
> > battery to one side of the fuse, but unless there is a "ground" there
should
> > be no power going through it correct? How does that work exactly. Please
> > keep it as simple as possible. Thanks in advance.
>
> The other responders posts are very good suggestions about using a lamp
> bulb where the fuse goes to help find the short.
>
> I have a question. Which fuse is blowing? If it is your dash lights that
are
> out,
> I suspect that you just lately installed a radio, tape, or CD player.
>
> ARM
>
>
>

Re: Short Circuits troubleshooting
 

No actually it is a 20a fuse under the hood in the engine compartment. The
fuse is for Horn, Stop and seat belt retract. It's part of the brake warning
system. Leads to a brake safety warning sensor (light bulb out ect). The
brake lights will not work with the fuse removed. The fuse does not blow
with the left sensor removed, but with the left senor removed, I have no
left brake light.


"Alan McClure" <mcclures@gwis.com> wrote in message
news:3FC23939.A23823D2@gwis.com...
>
>
> Cracker Jacks wrote:
>
> > I am trying to track down a problem in a car. A fuse keeps blowing. It
is my
> > understanding one way to do this is to remove the fuse and place a test
> > buzzer/light in the connections in the fuse spot. With all circuits
closed,
> > I should have no power going through this fuse location. If I have power
> > there is a short is this correct? I understand power is coming from the
> > battery to one side of the fuse, but unless there is a "ground" there
should
> > be no power going through it correct? How does that work exactly. Please
> > keep it as simple as possible. Thanks in advance.
>
> The other responders posts are very good suggestions about using a lamp
> bulb where the fuse goes to help find the short.
>
> I have a question. Which fuse is blowing? If it is your dash lights that
are
> out,
> I suspect that you just lately installed a radio, tape, or CD player.
>
> ARM
>
>
>

Re: Short Circuits troubleshooting
 

No actually it is a 20a fuse under the hood in the engine compartment. The
fuse is for Horn, Stop and seat belt retract. It's part of the brake warning
system. Leads to a brake safety warning sensor (light bulb out ect). The
brake lights will not work with the fuse removed. The fuse does not blow
with the left sensor removed, but with the left senor removed, I have no
left brake light.


"Alan McClure" <mcclures@gwis.com> wrote in message
news:3FC23939.A23823D2@gwis.com...
>
>
> Cracker Jacks wrote:
>
> > I am trying to track down a problem in a car. A fuse keeps blowing. It
is my
> > understanding one way to do this is to remove the fuse and place a test
> > buzzer/light in the connections in the fuse spot. With all circuits
closed,
> > I should have no power going through this fuse location. If I have power
> > there is a short is this correct? I understand power is coming from the
> > battery to one side of the fuse, but unless there is a "ground" there
should
> > be no power going through it correct? How does that work exactly. Please
> > keep it as simple as possible. Thanks in advance.
>
> The other responders posts are very good suggestions about using a lamp
> bulb where the fuse goes to help find the short.
>
> I have a question. Which fuse is blowing? If it is your dash lights that
are
> out,
> I suspect that you just lately installed a radio, tape, or CD player.
>
> ARM
>
>
>

Re: Short Circuits troubleshooting
 

There is a shop manual on line at
http://www.pauldesign.ru/honda/shopmanual.html. The two sensors are
connected in series. Shop manual indicates that there is a diode in one
of the sensors (oftentimes the Honda manuals simplify things by not
showing irrelevant components, there may well be a diode in both, even
though it is not shown). The most common failure mode for diodes is that
they short circuit. If this were to happen in the one sensor you could
get the scenario where you can plug in a bad sensor and the fuse still
would not blow, leading to a false conclusion that the sensor is good.
Assuming the schematic at www.pauldesign.ru is correct for your car, you
would get:

Bad sensor in left socket, good sensor in right socket: Fuse would
blow
* Bad sensor in left socket, right socket empty: Fuse would not blow
Left socket empty, good sensor in right socket: Fuse would not blow

Good sensor in left socket, bad sensor in right socket: Fuse would
blow
Good sensor in left socket, right socket empty: Fuse would not blow
Left socket empty, bad sensor in right socket: Fuse would blow

Page 25-68 of the manual referenced above shows how to test the sensors.
If you get continuity in both directions under point 2, the sensor is
bad.

Cracker Jacks wrote:
>
> No actually it is a 20a fuse under the hood in the engine compartment. The
> fuse is for Horn, Stop and seat belt retract. It's part of the brake warning
> system. Leads to a brake safety warning sensor (light bulb out ect). The
> brake lights will not work with the fuse removed. The fuse does not blow
> with the left sensor removed, but with the left senor removed, I have no
> left brake light.
>
> "Alan McClure" <mcclures@gwis.com> wrote in message
> news:3FC23939.A23823D2@gwis.com...
> >
> >
> > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> >
> > > I am trying to track down a problem in a car. A fuse keeps blowing. It
> is my
> > > understanding one way to do this is to remove the fuse and place a test
> > > buzzer/light in the connections in the fuse spot. With all circuits
> closed,
> > > I should have no power going through this fuse location. If I have power
> > > there is a short is this correct? I understand power is coming from the
> > > battery to one side of the fuse, but unless there is a "ground" there
> should
> > > be no power going through it correct? How does that work exactly. Please
> > > keep it as simple as possible. Thanks in advance.
> >
> > The other responders posts are very good suggestions about using a lamp
> > bulb where the fuse goes to help find the short.
> >
> > I have a question. Which fuse is blowing? If it is your dash lights that
> are
> > out,
> > I suspect that you just lately installed a radio, tape, or CD player.
> >
> > ARM
> >
> >
> >

Re: Short Circuits troubleshooting
 

There is a shop manual on line at
http://www.pauldesign.ru/honda/shopmanual.html. The two sensors are
connected in series. Shop manual indicates that there is a diode in one
of the sensors (oftentimes the Honda manuals simplify things by not
showing irrelevant components, there may well be a diode in both, even
though it is not shown). The most common failure mode for diodes is that
they short circuit. If this were to happen in the one sensor you could
get the scenario where you can plug in a bad sensor and the fuse still
would not blow, leading to a false conclusion that the sensor is good.
Assuming the schematic at www.pauldesign.ru is correct for your car, you
would get:

Bad sensor in left socket, good sensor in right socket: Fuse would
blow
* Bad sensor in left socket, right socket empty: Fuse would not blow
Left socket empty, good sensor in right socket: Fuse would not blow

Good sensor in left socket, bad sensor in right socket: Fuse would
blow
Good sensor in left socket, right socket empty: Fuse would not blow
Left socket empty, bad sensor in right socket: Fuse would blow

Page 25-68 of the manual referenced above shows how to test the sensors.
If you get continuity in both directions under point 2, the sensor is
bad.

Cracker Jacks wrote:
>
> No actually it is a 20a fuse under the hood in the engine compartment. The
> fuse is for Horn, Stop and seat belt retract. It's part of the brake warning
> system. Leads to a brake safety warning sensor (light bulb out ect). The
> brake lights will not work with the fuse removed. The fuse does not blow
> with the left sensor removed, but with the left senor removed, I have no
> left brake light.
>
> "Alan McClure" <mcclures@gwis.com> wrote in message
> news:3FC23939.A23823D2@gwis.com...
> >
> >
> > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> >
> > > I am trying to track down a problem in a car. A fuse keeps blowing. It
> is my
> > > understanding one way to do this is to remove the fuse and place a test
> > > buzzer/light in the connections in the fuse spot. With all circuits
> closed,
> > > I should have no power going through this fuse location. If I have power
> > > there is a short is this correct? I understand power is coming from the
> > > battery to one side of the fuse, but unless there is a "ground" there
> should
> > > be no power going through it correct? How does that work exactly. Please
> > > keep it as simple as possible. Thanks in advance.
> >
> > The other responders posts are very good suggestions about using a lamp
> > bulb where the fuse goes to help find the short.
> >
> > I have a question. Which fuse is blowing? If it is your dash lights that
> are
> > out,
> > I suspect that you just lately installed a radio, tape, or CD player.
> >
> > ARM
> >
> >
> >

Re: Short Circuits troubleshooting
 

There is a shop manual on line at
http://www.pauldesign.ru/honda/shopmanual.html. The two sensors are
connected in series. Shop manual indicates that there is a diode in one
of the sensors (oftentimes the Honda manuals simplify things by not
showing irrelevant components, there may well be a diode in both, even
though it is not shown). The most common failure mode for diodes is that
they short circuit. If this were to happen in the one sensor you could
get the scenario where you can plug in a bad sensor and the fuse still
would not blow, leading to a false conclusion that the sensor is good.
Assuming the schematic at www.pauldesign.ru is correct for your car, you
would get:

Bad sensor in left socket, good sensor in right socket: Fuse would
blow
* Bad sensor in left socket, right socket empty: Fuse would not blow
Left socket empty, good sensor in right socket: Fuse would not blow

Good sensor in left socket, bad sensor in right socket: Fuse would
blow
Good sensor in left socket, right socket empty: Fuse would not blow
Left socket empty, bad sensor in right socket: Fuse would blow

Page 25-68 of the manual referenced above shows how to test the sensors.
If you get continuity in both directions under point 2, the sensor is
bad.

Cracker Jacks wrote:
>
> No actually it is a 20a fuse under the hood in the engine compartment. The
> fuse is for Horn, Stop and seat belt retract. It's part of the brake warning
> system. Leads to a brake safety warning sensor (light bulb out ect). The
> brake lights will not work with the fuse removed. The fuse does not blow
> with the left sensor removed, but with the left senor removed, I have no
> left brake light.
>
> "Alan McClure" <mcclures@gwis.com> wrote in message
> news:3FC23939.A23823D2@gwis.com...
> >
> >
> > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> >
> > > I am trying to track down a problem in a car. A fuse keeps blowing. It
> is my
> > > understanding one way to do this is to remove the fuse and place a test
> > > buzzer/light in the connections in the fuse spot. With all circuits
> closed,
> > > I should have no power going through this fuse location. If I have power
> > > there is a short is this correct? I understand power is coming from the
> > > battery to one side of the fuse, but unless there is a "ground" there
> should
> > > be no power going through it correct? How does that work exactly. Please
> > > keep it as simple as possible. Thanks in advance.
> >
> > The other responders posts are very good suggestions about using a lamp
> > bulb where the fuse goes to help find the short.
> >
> > I have a question. Which fuse is blowing? If it is your dash lights that
> are
> > out,
> > I suspect that you just lately installed a radio, tape, or CD player.
> >
> > ARM
> >
> >
> >

Re: Short Circuits troubleshooting
 

Our library here is small do you think they would have it? Do you think
there is a Library online that may have it?

"JeffM" <jeffm_@email.com> wrote in message
news:f8b945bc.0311241355.72493a93@posting.google.c om...
> >car...fuse keeps blowing
> >Cracker Jacks
>
> If it doesn't make itself obvious, get a Xerox of your car's electrical
diagram
> out of National Service Data (best diagrams IMO) at your library.
>
> Some stuff is not logical.
> Mine has dome lights on the same circuit as radio memory / clock.
> (You'd never know it looking at the fuse block.)

Re: Short Circuits troubleshooting
 

Our library here is small do you think they would have it? Do you think
there is a Library online that may have it?

"JeffM" <jeffm_@email.com> wrote in message
news:f8b945bc.0311241355.72493a93@posting.google.c om...
> >car...fuse keeps blowing
> >Cracker Jacks
>
> If it doesn't make itself obvious, get a Xerox of your car's electrical
diagram
> out of National Service Data (best diagrams IMO) at your library.
>
> Some stuff is not logical.
> Mine has dome lights on the same circuit as radio memory / clock.
> (You'd never know it looking at the fuse block.)