Randolph, Mike - THANKS!
 

Randolph, Mike -
I really appreciate your help. The fact that you both agreed, chapter and
verse without referencing each others post is Very reassuring.

You and this group are a great resource, I only wish that I might be able to
return the flavor some day.

Sincerely,
Martin


"Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
news:400DDABF.F29DF9CB@junkmail.com...
> > Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors -
but
> > they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a
likely
> > spot to tap in to the + side.
>
> Most Hondas have an under-hood fuse box. On mine there is one fat wire
> coming in to that fuse box from the battery and one from the alternator.
> These both have screw terminals, and are good points to hook up
> high-power accessories. Crimp a ring terminal to your wire use one of
> the screw terminals. For the ground lead, follow the ground wire from
> the battery to where it is connected to the chassis. Again crimp a ring
> terminal to your wire and use the same grounding point as the battery
> uses.
>
> > Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire
it?
> > Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?
>
> 14 AWG is skimpy. At 150W and an efficiency of 80% (fairly typical
> value) you will be drawing about 15A average current. The peak current
> will be quite a bit higher than 15A, so to limit your resistive losses I
> would go no smaller than 10 AWG. Get individual 10 AWG wires from your
> favorite auto parts store, black for negative, yellow for positive. (The
> inverter should be in the cabin, not under the hood). Remember to put an
> in-line fuse in the positive wire within a few inches of were you tap
> into battery voltage.
>
> > and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?
>
> Have a close look at the firewall. You will probably find some unused
> rubber plugs you can pull out and thread the wires through the hole. Use
> a grommet for your wires.