240sx running ruff
 

hey guys

i bought an 89 240sx and it hadnt been started in 3 weeks, and who knows from when b4 it had been started, but anywaz. i started it yesterday on 3 dollars worth of gas and ran it around the block, and it was running ruff, i'm not sure if it is cuz i didnt let it warm up, i juss started it and drove it cuz i had juss changed the plugs. anywaz when driving it felt like the engine didnt want to move, i only got it to like 40kms, does any1 know if this is a serious problem or should i let the engine warm up properly next time.

thanks much appreciated

ghost

doube check if ur put the plugs in the right order

huh
 

what do u mean by the rite order u meant the wires??

THE KA24E (2.4L SOHC) and some of the earlier model KA24DE's (2.4L DOHC) have known issues with carbon deposits in the IAC valve which cause the car to run very rich and very poorly.

Try having a look at the IACV, you should be able to just clean it out.

hey
 

thanks for the info. i will check that out tommorow, but the owner told me b4 that the maf sensor i believe its called its by the air filter, was knocked off and then it started stuttering so i put it back on juss havent started it yet if its fixed i'll let u kno.

the mafs is a delicate sensor and can be the cause of your problem. I would service your mafs and also check the iacv as flashpoint was saying. Both of these can be a cause of the syndrom you descriped. I would start will the Mafs before cleaning out the iacv. You can unplug the iacv while the car is idiling to see if it is operative before cleaning.

Goodluck :smilie_da

hey
 

thanks. should i juss replace the sensor, their not that cost consuming plus i think a junkyard should have them. cuz i dont kno what to look for in the maf sensor

sourcing an Iacv from a junkyard would be not the best idea because you have no idea of its condition. Your better off opening up the iacv and cleaning it yourseld and reassembling then to find one at a junkyard. Also the mafs can be cleaned when cold with air intake cleaner and other products out there. It just may be as easy as that. sourcing junkyard parts may not get you any further then you already are.
good luck:smilie_da

...
 

the maf sensor seems to be clean. but still the same problem, i havent cleaned the iacv valve as of yet, but now when i start it it wont idle at all, and i can t get it to rev pass 4k and when it gets near 1k the whole car starts shaking, and if i dont give it gas it will cut off. plz help:frown:

alright seems like ignition issues to me, i have not worked on many kade's to tell but i would do a general ignition check and see if you can find the issue.

..
 

Well i juss recently changed the plugs, but the oil is black but i doubt that the oil is causing that. From two friends one told me to do an engine flush, but i'm not sure that is the best of things to do, and another friend told me it sounds like a fuel pump issue, cuz he asked me if the car is the engine is fighting to stay alive at 500 - 1000 rpm, and its true plus some black liquid was spitting out of the exhaust. Is it possible that a fuel pump would cause this problem?

by the way thanks for all your help

I don't think your friends are leading you in the right direction. Are you going to be doing the work yourself?

ye
 

i kind of live in between the car, skool and a friends house LOL. i'm juss so stressed out with all of this crap, if i had the money i would pay a mechaninc to look at it. i'm sorry for disturbing you but i read on another form that in honda's and nissan's studder when their is moisture in the distributor is this possible?

www. s o n 2 4 0 s x . ca

alright well if you don;t have the money, tools or time we can;t really help you out. I would personally check iavc valve and test the ignition system. Sounds like to me more of an ignition probelm though. I would check the distributor, wires, plugs, coil. If none of these are the cause i would move onto fuel related parts. You don;t have any engine codes because of this situation?

distributor - remove cap and look at points and inspect rotor for corrosion and poor serface.
wires- with the engine running spray your ignition wires with a spray bottle and if you notice fluctuation in engine speed you may have a bad wire.
plugs- remove plugs looking for cracks in porcelin and carbon build up
coil - check resistance between side terminals reading should be around .7-.8 ohms. Also check ohms between main terminal and each side terminal to get a ohm reading of up more of the range of 10,000 ohms.

Like i said you need the right tools in order to actually check everything over. It is hard to really diagnose a car over the internet like this but it is a start. General rule of thumb is you need air, fuel, and spark. Well the car actually runs so you know you have vaccuum (air coming in) and that means its lagging in the areas of sprak and fuel. I am leaning more towards checking spark first. Hopefully this can help you out some and give you a starting point.