Car Subwoofers for home use??????
#17
Originally Posted by Supra_RZ
thanks Jordy, but i have one more question. How should i hook all of this stuff up, im thinking about getting a 1000 watt JL Audio subwoofer, 700-800 watt Home Amp, and a Home Cd player. If you have something better in mind plz tell me
also... I have to clarify something that you said ealier. Subs don't "put out" any watts.
A watt is just a way to measure power. In this case it's the power that the amplifier puts out. The rating on the sub is just the ammount of watts it's rated to handle from an amplifier. The sub only "puts out" what the amp sends it
#18
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in a Home Amp (reciever) how do i connect the sub into one channel if their is 6. And on home Amp's the 1 channel is less than 160 watts, so how can i combine the channels into a much powerfull channel to make the car sub work properly??
#20
Originally Posted by Supra_RZ
in a Home Amp (reciever) how do i connect the sub into one channel if their is 6. And on home Amp's the 1 channel is less than 160 watts, so how can i combine the channels into a much powerfull channel to make the car sub work properly??
If you don't have enough power off of the sub channel on the home amplifier there's not much you can do while still using that amp.
There are ways of getting other amplifiers in to the mix, but that will start to cost you a lot more. (you'll need crossovers and stuff)
Sorry but I can't suggest any home amplifiers... I'm not really in to the home audio scene. I just know enough to help you not blow things up
#21
subwoofers draw alot of power and are generally self powered because of this. Like someone said earlier, cranking your amp to make your sub move will put strain on your amp and take away from your sound quality. You will also have a hell of a time wiring all this up because home recievers do ot have a powered sub output. A 5.1 amp will have: front, rear and center powered outputs. 7.1 will have front, rear, side and center powered outputs. The front is the most powerful output of most home theatre recievers, but generally cannot be bridged. Your best bet would be to either buy/build some front towers with large subs, and scrap the whole independant sub idea. Honestly thats the best and easiest way.
#26
Originally Posted by D16Y8
subwoofers draw alot of power and are generally self powered because of this. Like someone said earlier, cranking your amp to make your sub move will put strain on your amp and take away from your sound quality. You will also have a hell of a time wiring all this up because home recievers do ot have a powered sub output. A 5.1 amp will have: front, rear and center powered outputs. 7.1 will have front, rear, side and center powered outputs. The front is the most powerful output of most home theatre recievers, but generally cannot be bridged. Your best bet would be to either buy/build some front towers with large subs, and scrap the whole independant sub idea. Honestly thats the best and easiest way.
What you said is very misleading.
A subwoofer draws no power at all. The amplifier draws the power, the sub just takes what ever the amp sends it.
If you get a well matched sub and amp combo you can definitely get something that sounds good/loud and doesn't draw too much current.
#27
Originally Posted by midnighter
There's a lot more to a sub than peak power rating... plus a sub box for your car would sound like inside a house, sorry. You will be happy with a home theatre sub even though it has "less watts"
If you build a proper box for your car with a nice flat responce there's no reason why it should sound any better or worse in your car than it does at home.
Sure, it will sound different (not going to get in to WHY right now), but a well build enclosure will work in either environment.
#28
I'm currently running two kicker 12" coimp VR"s off a pioneer 1010 W pioneer receiver which is only stable at 8 ohms. I'm running it at 2 ohms and it seems to be doing fine, just look out for a burning smell, when u smell it shut it off for a bit. Most receivers will go into protection on their own however.
#30
Originally Posted by Downgear
i believe they are different frequencies for cars and home.
If you mean the sound, then no, sorry.
Basically the frequency of the tone is the same in a car as it will be in a home. 35hz is 35hz no matter where you play it.
The biggest difference between a car and home is something called 'cabin gain' meaning some frequencies will be louder in your car then they would be at home. This is due to the nature of the material and shape of your vehicle.
As I said earlier though, if you have a flat responce (meaning, the box plays a range of freq's well) then there shouldn't be much difference.