depends if it's a custom crank or not, you may need machining

depends if it's a custom crank or not, you may need machining

stock block bored .030 over = 355

stock block with 400 crank = 377

bored .030 with 400 crank = 383

bored .040 with 400 crank = 385

bored .100 with 400 crank = 396

IMO you would be best with goin with a 383 first, esp since you said you were goin to be playin with the spray a little. That way should something go wrong you have more opportunity to bore again- and not be stuck with a big paperweight. The walls get pretty thin once you get up around 400 cubes...

I didn't know the lt1 could be bored that far with no filler

TPiS has bored them out to 409 actually- But I personally don't like tin foil cyl walls...

Friend of mine knows someone that is selling a LT1 short block for $250 (that is just the block right). I have been calling around but I'm having hard time finding someone to do the machine work. Anyone have an idea of how much a .030 bore would cost me? If I cannot find a decent shop to do the work I might just be stuck with a 377.

Shop here charges around $50 a hole to bore- so multiply 8 X $50 and get $400.

But that is around here- not sure what other places do...

similar in MI not sure around here

Cool, I expected the prices to be higher but that is not bad.

How would I transport an engine? Buddy of mine has a full size truck and I can get an engine stand for around $37, so would I just put the engine on the stand and then use some ramps to get it in the bed of the truck? Then I would ramp it back down off the truck, sounds good? Suck not having and engine lift.

Most machine shops have a lift that they could take the engine out of the truck with.

Just throw it in the back of a pickup and take it there-

or if bare block 2 guys can carry it fairly easy (I carried my 350 by myself and I'm not a big guy by any stretch of the imagination)