Rep Power: 772

I just got back from Pepboys and had a diagnostic and the problems are all Ignition coils ect...about 400 bucks worth of parts. Apparently one coil is putting out too much, and one isnt putting out enough, Five count that...FIVE trouble codes showed up. An o2 sensor error was brought up. $845 is what it would cost for the parts and labor and the dude was like "So should I put it down for ya?" I was like "Nah dude im good, just gimmie the parts" a few parts I took out of the list cause I already had and/or just had done (Fuel filter ect..)
Needless to say I wasnt feeling as good as I was before I showed up.
I think tonight im gonna do some then me and my mecahnic will get to work tommorow. *sigh* I plan on buying a new Vehicle soon, something with alot of room, im still going to keep my camaro. F*ckin' mustangs...ugg

 
Rep Power: 935

You got raped on prices there dude

 
Rep Power: 772

I looked at the reciept yesturday and it wasnt $400, the parts were like $288 thats including the diagnostic test. I still have a bigger problem, my EGR valve is screwed, the car is skipping and struggling and the idle scares me. Its that bad. I think the EGR is what? like $100? I am also going to run an Air Flow diagnostic test to find out where this air hose leak is...Grrr...Fvcking car....
Oh and I had the ignition modulater, Ignition coils, spark plugs & wires all put on last night and it only cost $40. Yay...this EGR thing is...hell.

 
Rep Power: 1126

pull the egr off and see if it has a chunk of carbon in it may just take a cleaning to make it work perfect again

 
Rep Power: 772

Im actually doing that right now, i just came inside because i was getting mad, can't get the **** bolts off, they are on there tight as fvck. So far i might have stripped one bolt, there are only two. Everything is setup and i know what to do....cant start cause a freakin bolt...retarded.

 
Rep Power: 1126

go get some pb blaster, they aren't that tight, but they may have thread lock and corrosion holding them

 
Rep Power: 772

Bah, I just got back from my friends house he works on cars all the time, that bolt will NOT budge, its rounded off. We tried everything, also my mechanic told me that cleaning an electrical EGR isnt as good as cleaning the old ones, Im probably gonna have to buy a new one cause there is just no way around this, a new EGR valve is $169.99 and thats the cheapest i can find. most were like 179.99, hell NAPA charges $220 for theirs....rediculous. Man my car is sturggling like hell and I fear stopping at a red light now...lol at a red light on my way to my friends house about 2 hours ago the engine stopped. Grr how embarresing. Im pissed and thios car is working my nerves. *sigh* but I still love it, Ever seen the movie Christine? Its sorta like that except this b1tch wont fix herself.

 
Rep Power: 1126

I clean mine on the bravada all teh time (ther is a recall that replaces it until 150,000 miles I'm over that) the place where it needs cleaned is the actual moving piece

 
Rep Power: 1046

Doesn't sound much like Christine. If it was, your car would be perfect all the time, lol.

 
Rep Power: 825

to say the least

 
Rep Power: 772

Well im gonna go ahead and buy the new EGR thursday but keep it in the box, then im gonna drive out to my mechanics house and see what he can do, he was the one that said it isnt a good idea cleaning an electrical EGR but i read its ok to soak it in carburater fluid but not the elctrical part. So im gonna see if he can remove that one freakin bolt...may have to drill or cut the bolt since it is stripped/rounded off now..thats my fault. The bolt on the otherside comes off. Ill inform you all later, oh yea...my car is running like shiiiiaaaat now.

 
Rep Power: 1126

I had to drill once of mine (it broke off) gm says they can be cleaned carefully

 
Rep Power: 772

I just bought a brand new EGR, not going to install it until this weekend, gonna have to get my mechanic to drill the bolt off, then we are gonna try to clean it, if that dosent help then on goes the new one. I just hope that is my only problem as far as the air flow goes, I believe I was told have have some kinda of vacum leak but maybe it was the EGR that was causeing this. becuase during certain points of acceleration I would hear this slight hise, then the sound would fade as I released the pedal abit.
Question: When i remove the EGR what is the best way to clean the hose it is sitting on top of. Also, I do have to clean the intake manifold with carburater cleanr too right? i bought this stuff that acts as carb cleaner but it also gets into the cylinders. I think It might be best to change fuel filter while im at it right?

Brief summary:

1)Whats the best way to clean the EGR hose.
2)Clean the intake manifold w/ carb cleaner?
3)Change fuel filter and clean fuel injectors or Not?

 
Rep Power: 1126

to clean the hose use carb cleaner (I like berryman) it needs to be a spray same with intake. Never hurts to change filter or clean injectors

 
Rep Power: 772

How to clean EGR valve passages? Do-It-Yourself & Save!

Step One: First, locate EGR valve. Place the vehicle in park. Apply the emergency brake. Start the vehicle. Allow to warm up.

Step Two: Find the EGR plunger mechanism. The EGR valve plunger meters the exhaust gas recirculation by opening and closing.

Step Three: Manually rev the engine and check for plunger operation. A plunger stuck open or closed indicates EGR valve problems. Replace the bad EGR valve.

My question is wtf is the plunger mechanism they are refering to?

Here is some pics of Dirty EGR's vs Clean Egrs.....man there is no telling how clogged up mine is, b1tch *** car stalled then cut off right when i was in the middle of a suicide lane today, but i was crossing the street so the of the car was in one lane and the a$$ of her was in the other...lol I started to sweat then said "oooooooh ****"