Need Help
 

Ok my car's acting up.

Most of the time it's fine but every time I drive my Z28 it acts up. What it's doing is it feels like it's lost all it's power, best way to describe it is it feels and sounds like there's somthing jammed up the exhaust and the air can't get out. Then it'll kinda pop and drive normal. When it's acting up if I come to a stop you can feel the engine shaking kinda like it has a cam and you can see the shifter rock back and forth. I've already removed my AIR/EGR so my SES light is always on until I get the car tuned but when this starts happing the SES flashes.
I'm worried and just not sure what it is. Oh and you can smell fuel sometimes when it happens. But I have straight headers and ORY that exist right under my seat, if I had cats and a full catback I'm sure I wouldn't smell anything.

It's been doing this for two days now, until yesterday the cars always ran perfectly without any kind of problem no matter how small.

Does Advance Auto charge to check your codes. Although the SES light only flashes when it happens so if it's not wiill the codes even show up?

Get a new car..



:)

Mine does the same thing Chad.....its been doing it for a while. It mostly happens when I am coming to a stop, and the engine feels like its going to die and then shakes like it has a cam. When it does it bad it takes a few seconds for the car to accelerate from a dead stop (mine is an auto).

I'd like to know what it is also, because I have just been living with it since I don't have the cash for someone to check out my car at the moment.

My SES light is on constantly as well.....but its always been like that (no cats, AIR, or EGR).

This is exactly what happened when I had my misfire... but Im just throwing that out there, I know mine is a v6, but I had the same symptoms, maybe a related problem?

I've been told I might need new spark plugs & wires.....but the ones I have are less than a year old.

I've had my charging / electrical system checked, as well as my fuel system, and they both came out ok. I have no idea what is causing this problem.....but mine seems to be getting progressively worse.

And here I thought technology finally perfected the SBC in the form of the LS1.

you guys have misfires. at first it sounded like you had a plugged cat chad, but you said you have an ORY...so that cant be it. either your EGR is stuck open or you have a bad misfire, or even possible a bent or stuck or even burnt exhaust valve.

That's what I was thinking but I didn't realize it would be this bad.
I guess the worste part is I changed the plugs and wires when I installed the longtubes this summer.
I know what I'm doing on my next day off.

I can see how well that'd work out. Honey the cars acting a little strange so I bought a new Z06 instead.

Yep good enough excuse for me.

thats the good thing abuot the 93's you can cross over A&B and pull the codes, same with all earlier cars, theyre just not LT1s:).

aww... whats wrong with a Z06?

Hmm Im going to go with caleb, I thought clogged cat for sure then the ORY came into my head.. Id check the plugs n wires first.. and make sure the egr isnt open.....

Im still having problems with my car aswell... the oil pressure gauges drops to zero and the car shuts off after fast short/subtle movements. Caleb anyhelp?

The oil system on our cars are pretty solid and basic. Your oil pump might be going bad, or maybe the pick up tube is out of place.

Let me know if that works Chad.

I'd HATE to have to replace my plugs and / or wires this soon. :banghead:

advance checks codes for free

well chad since you replaced the wires and plugs lately that shouldnt be it. it could be a coil if its not those. OBD-II has codes for misfires so i'd get it scanned. most shops can scan it for free...

however after reviewing the symptoms it sounds more like what happened to mine last month. an exhaust valve retainer broke around the edges and instead of resting on top of the spring, it rested on the lower coil. so the valve wasnt closing all the way. this caused no compression on that cylinder, and screwed up the vacuum for the two cylinders across the engine. so i had nothing going on on #8 and then #5 and #7 as well.

i'd pull the valve covers to check to see if anything is broken, then while theyre off...have someone crank the motor and watch to see if all valves open and close right.

after all that and you dont find a problem let me know. we tested A LOT before we found the problem, so i can really help you though all the possible causes.



and as for tony's problem...i dont know for sure if our cars have oil pressure safety switches. i know my v6 didnt cuz when running 5W30 in hot summer i had 0 psi and it still ran. If the LT1s do then what could be happening is pump may be bad and there could be some broken teeth in the gears and there might be a lot of play in between gears. when you turn or something the gear might slightly move, which would stop pumping and the pressure would drop, and bam the safety switch turns on.

but this is only if there is an oil pressure switch...honeslty though i dont know, i dont know much of oiling systems. im taking a lower end rebuilding course next semester and i'll learn all about it. can it wait til after next semester :D

does it only run bad when warmed up, or all teh time? If only when warm ignition module would be suspect (90% of teh time with that symptom that's teh cause)

actually i need a bit more info tony. i assume you've checked the oil and its good. maybe theres a small restriction in an oil gallery or something and it will block the flow on turns...

what really matters is when it stalls...it it sort of a "turn the key off"stall or a really abrupt stall?

It'll start to run bad before it's warmed up, but it never does it at startup.

egr maybe?

I've removed the EGR and AIR.

It's weird, I had problems Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday but yesterday and today the car's run perfectly.

I know on Sunday when it started it was pouring rain and I have the ram air ducting that picks up air from under the front of the car. I didn't have the block-off plate installed. Is there a chance that some water made it's way up into the engine?

ROFL!!! I can see her face now ahahahahaha.

Buy her a Goat (gto) and she will change her mind.

Another possibility is that perhaps the tranny isn't downshifting and stuck in a higher gear. I wouldn't expect it to be that on such a new car, more common with a Cavalier with 200,000 miles ect...

But being that it happens when you come to a stop and that it feels like it doesn't have power, trying to pull away in third gear would cause it, but only in Drakes instance.

Autozone also checks codes for free, as long as the code is tripped, it should still be stored.

It definetely sounds like a misfire too, so I would check that as well. I doubt it would be the wires arcing because of the style of the LS1 engine, I would start checking and eliminating items one by one...

Does water going into your intake actaully harm an engine? I swear Arch said before a little water wouldnt hurt anything. I have that little plate underneath the car completely removed, so theres a pretty good chance water gets right in there.. Does that do damage?

well the filter should block most splashes but it can still get in.

and yes, water in the engine is bad.

Yes the oild is good and full.... It does it when I abruptly gas n let off or sometime on a hill... so im not sure maybe i should switch to 10-30? Im really not sure what could be doing it...

yeah i'd go to 10-30. i had 5-30 on my v6 and had weird things happening so i switched to 10-30 and had no problems.

what exactly happens?

Not for my car, I'm trying to save money so I'm using water instead of gas.

hahaha. I heard dirt and sugar are good fuel economy additives.

Same here.

I have also removed the AIR & EGR.....my car throws so many codes it might take them a while to sort through it all (my SES light just stays on....been that way since before I bought the car).

Yes we do, i really love yah go and print the codes out and tell them what its throwin and their like no its gotta be somethin else and they buy something they dont even need.. idiots

The same thing goes on at O'Reillys. I can take out the portable batt./alt./starter tester and run a test on someone's car. The tester will report a bad diode yet the customer just wants a battery. :confused:

when i change the oil caleb ill c what happens

What happens when water gets in your engine?

if its a lot your engine wont run and could have some serious problems depending on how bad it is. this guy had a car in our shop and it had a bad bad head gasket leak. after the heads were pulled each cylinder was almost full of coolant. he said the engine hadnt run in years. duh.

but water through teh air filter while the engine is running is different, a small amount won't do anything (they actually do that to clean the throttle body, and carbon from the pistons)

Don't laugh...

I went to swap out the wires so I took the Corvette fuel rail covers off and well. Let's just say one of the wires was no longer connected to the plug. I haven't had a chance to drive the car again but I think this lets us know what was going on.
Oh and the wires I bought off eBay, you need the Holley blaster coil so I'll probably just throw them up on eBay myself.

One problem though, I took the oil cover off to take the fuel rail covers off and there was a yellow puss in there. Is this from unburned fuel getting into the oil? I'll do an oil change on my next day off just to be safe but I want to get some opinons from the rest of you first.

that is from driving too few miles, it's water from condensation.Drive it for 15 to 20 miles regualrly and it won't happen