SubFrame Connectors!!!
#18
Thanks, yea I was worried when I first intalled them that I messed up the rear alignment when i took off the rear control arm bolt because when I installed them, I was hearing a nasty clunk when i hit bumps on the driver side, when i reread the instructions it said the bolt needed to be torque to 100LBS, so I grabbed my socket wrench and tightend that sucker up its not going anywhere now! But the clunk went away and I still can't believe what an improvement it made!
#19
one thing to keep in mind when getting them welded you need a lift to lift the car by the tires so the uni-body frame is "unstressed".
Thanks, yea I was worried when I first intalled them that I messed up the rear alignment when i took off the rear control arm bolt because when I installed them, I was hearing a nasty clunk when i hit bumps on the driver side, when i reread the instructions it said the bolt needed to be torque to 100LBS, so I grabbed my socket wrench and tightend that sucker up its not going anywhere now! But the clunk went away and I still can't believe what an improvement it made!
#23
yea my friend's SS has the boxed Weld Ins, they are obviously much better then the tubular but weigh a little more. If i had a choice I would have gotten Chrome Moly, but its another $100+
#25
you dont need all the extra crap, if you got big mods and plan on racing the car alot get the diamond ones... if not weld in are good so are the bolt on ones.... the fact is they tie the subframes together and protect the car from chassis flex due to tourqe.
#26
Agreed, mine were the x design that met in the middle but they were boltons and tubular but made a huge difference. I wouldn't worry about the boxed ones unless you were going to race the car.
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