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MKIII supra slow!

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Old 11-23-2006, 07:45 PM
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MKIII supra slow!

My car is ****en slow! ****EN N/A AUTO!!!, i need to swap in the 7mgte with a r154. I think my moms accord is faster...
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Old 11-23-2006, 07:51 PM
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It looks nice though...
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Old 11-23-2006, 07:54 PM
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yeh it does, its mint ... but slow. It would be perfect for a swap
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Old 11-24-2006, 12:07 PM
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**** the 7MGTE.
LS1 in there fits perfectly.







j/k
in all seriousness, do try to put a LS1 in there, if not, then the 7MGTE is perfect, I would suggest a 2JZ, but those things are to damn expensive, and require more modifications to fit it in there. the GTE just slips there like a perfectly fitted glove.
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Old 11-24-2006, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Hellbent
**** the 7MGTE.
LS1 in there fits perfectly.







j/k
in all seriousness, do try to put a LS1 in there, if not, then the 7MGTE is perfect, I would suggest a 2JZ, but those things are to damn expensive, and require more modifications to fit it in there. the GTE just slips there like a perfectly fitted glove.


2JZ is cheaper than an LS1, and it is cheaper to swap it in.

$1000 including longblock with trans.
You have to massage the firewall slightly to make it fit with the stock twins (which are good to 450whp) or throw on a single T4 setup.

If you really want to turbo your n/a PM me and add me to msn. It is pretty straight forward to do.
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Old 11-24-2006, 05:11 PM
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why would i put in a 2jz or ls1, the supra needs only one motor the 7m-gte. 7m-gte is reliable to, jus those idiots that blow em up dont tune properly or decide to use 20 year old oil pumps on a fresh motor.

hmm, I'm wondering if I should just turbo the ge or swap the block.

Last edited by sweetlikechutny; 11-24-2006 at 05:13 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 11-27-2006, 11:36 AM
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just swap engines man, it will be much simpler then trying to turbo the N/A.
Just make sure you change the head gasket and your good to go.
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Old 11-27-2006, 02:04 PM
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Why?

The heads are the same

The blocks are the same except for oil squirters and the pistons. The extra CR will help with off boost power.

Since the block/head will have to be opened up and stripped to do the maching work for a metal head gasket, oil squirters could be installed then.
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Old 11-27-2006, 02:54 PM
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Old 11-27-2006, 03:06 PM
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Old 11-27-2006, 03:11 PM
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I supose you could do that, but it just seems like more work to source a turbo, with the Downpipe and the intake, and the oil/coolent lines, and then get the oil squirters and get someone to put them in, and tap the block for the oil lines, and figure something out for the coolant lines. and what about the ECU will the N/A ecu take care of the turbo? And I would be worried running a higher CR on the otherwise stock engine. He dosen't have to have it machined down, if he just gets a 7MGTE and swaps in a metal headgasket, I'm sure it would be fine.
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Old 11-27-2006, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by hacker_720
I supose you could do that, but it just seems like more work to source a turbo, with the Downpipe and the intake, and the oil/coolent lines, and then get the oil squirters and get someone to put them in, and tap the block for the oil lines, and figure something out for the coolant lines. and what about the ECU will the N/A ecu take care of the turbo? And I would be worried running a higher CR on the otherwise stock engine. He dosen't have to have it machined down, if he just gets a 7MGTE and swaps in a metal headgasket, I'm sure it would be fine.

What are you talking about?

Alot of JDM engines you find don't come with the turbo anyways, so chances are one would need to be sourced, and even then it probably has shaft play and will need a rebuild. The oil/coolant lines come with the turbo and are bolt on to either block. No drilling needed just remove the block off plates/plugs on the n/a block. The oil squirters will bolt right in too. Both blocks are from the same casting. Same goes for the oil cooler, both engines use the same oil pan so just remove the plug in the pan for the oil cooler drain. An oil filter mount from a turbo block will be needed, or just buy a relocation kit for about the same as the turbo mount will cost anyways.

Who puts the effort into swapping in a turbo setup and keeping the stock downpipe/exhaust and air intake system? Yikes. That is extremly restrictive and should be the first two things to get upgraded.

Again, the ECU usually doesn't come with the engine so one will have to be sources anyways, especially since he wants to swap to the 5 speed trans anyways.

The CR is hardly higher, turbo block is approximately 8.4:1 and the n/a block is approximately 9.1:1. If staying on the stock turbo that is nothing to be worried about, run 94 octane gas like you are supposed to and everything will be fine. Hell, my engine is around 9.0:1 according to the compression #'s per cylinder and I have never had a problem. It makes the car much more responsive.

And trust me, the head will 100% HAVE to be machined in order to use a metal headgasket. 100% certain. The head is aluminum and pitts/warps very easily, especially from the high heat cycles these engines go through, especially the turbo ones. The block is cast iron so it is harder, but chances are 8/10 blocks need to be resurfaced because of pitting too. Can't forget the ARP headstuds/bolts.

Please refrain from giving the guy incorrect information.
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Old 11-27-2006, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by SuprAdam
Since the block/head will have to be opened up and stripped to do the maching work for a metal head gasket, oil squirters could be installed then.
That won't be cheap... he'll spend less money buying an actual 7MGTE rather then turbocharging the NA and machining the block to match the turbo block.
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Old 11-27-2006, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by B6T
That won't be cheap... he'll spend less money buying an actual 7MGTE rather then turbocharging the NA and machining the block to match the turbo block.
Like what? They are the same blocks!
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Old 11-27-2006, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by SuprAdam
Like what? They are the same blocks!
Then why did you say...

Originally Posted by SuprAdam
Why?

The blocks are the same except for oil squirters and the pistons. The extra CR will help with off boost power.

Since the block/head will have to be opened up and stripped to do the maching work for a metal head gasket, oil squirters could be installed then.
If they're the same, then they don't need machine work. To me, adding oil squirters requires machine work because it means the oil galley haven't been tapped for the squirters. Clarify yo' self son!
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