MKIII supra slow!
11-27-2006, 08:01 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by B6T
Then why did you say...
If they're the same, then they don't need machine work. To me, adding oil squirters requires machine work because it means the oil galley haven't been tapped for the squirters. Clarify yo' self son!
If they're the same, then they don't need machine work. To me, adding oil squirters requires machine work because it means the oil galley haven't been tapped for the squirters. Clarify yo' self son!
I did clarify myself.
Machine work is needed to install a metal headgasket.
Now what surfaces would you machine if I was refering to a headgasket fred? I did not say machining holes for the oil squirters.
11-28-2006, 10:15 AM
#18
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Originally Posted by SuprAdam
What are you talking about?
Alot of JDM engines you find don't come with the turbo anyways, so chances are one would need to be sourced, and even then it probably has shaft play and will need a rebuild. The oil/coolant lines come with the turbo and are bolt on to either block. No drilling needed just remove the block off plates/plugs on the n/a block. The oil squirters will bolt right in too. Both blocks are from the same casting. Same goes for the oil cooler, both engines use the same oil pan so just remove the plug in the pan for the oil cooler drain. An oil filter mount from a turbo block will be needed, or just buy a relocation kit for about the same as the turbo mount will cost anyways.
Who puts the effort into swapping in a turbo setup and keeping the stock downpipe/exhaust and air intake system? Yikes. That is extremly restrictive and should be the first two things to get upgraded.
Again, the ECU usually doesn't come with the engine so one will have to be sources anyways, especially since he wants to swap to the 5 speed trans anyways.
The CR is hardly higher, turbo block is approximately 8.4:1 and the n/a block is approximately 9.1:1. If staying on the stock turbo that is nothing to be worried about, run 94 octane gas like you are supposed to and everything will be fine. Hell, my engine is around 9.0:1 according to the compression #'s per cylinder and I have never had a problem. It makes the car much more responsive.
And trust me, the head will 100% HAVE to be machined in order to use a metal headgasket. 100% certain. The head is aluminum and pitts/warps very easily, especially from the high heat cycles these engines go through, especially the turbo ones. The block is cast iron so it is harder, but chances are 8/10 blocks need to be resurfaced because of pitting too. Can't forget the ARP headstuds/bolts.
Please refrain from giving the guy incorrect information.
Alot of JDM engines you find don't come with the turbo anyways, so chances are one would need to be sourced, and even then it probably has shaft play and will need a rebuild. The oil/coolant lines come with the turbo and are bolt on to either block. No drilling needed just remove the block off plates/plugs on the n/a block. The oil squirters will bolt right in too. Both blocks are from the same casting. Same goes for the oil cooler, both engines use the same oil pan so just remove the plug in the pan for the oil cooler drain. An oil filter mount from a turbo block will be needed, or just buy a relocation kit for about the same as the turbo mount will cost anyways.
Who puts the effort into swapping in a turbo setup and keeping the stock downpipe/exhaust and air intake system? Yikes. That is extremly restrictive and should be the first two things to get upgraded.
Again, the ECU usually doesn't come with the engine so one will have to be sources anyways, especially since he wants to swap to the 5 speed trans anyways.
The CR is hardly higher, turbo block is approximately 8.4:1 and the n/a block is approximately 9.1:1. If staying on the stock turbo that is nothing to be worried about, run 94 octane gas like you are supposed to and everything will be fine. Hell, my engine is around 9.0:1 according to the compression #'s per cylinder and I have never had a problem. It makes the car much more responsive.
And trust me, the head will 100% HAVE to be machined in order to use a metal headgasket. 100% certain. The head is aluminum and pitts/warps very easily, especially from the high heat cycles these engines go through, especially the turbo ones. The block is cast iron so it is harder, but chances are 8/10 blocks need to be resurfaced because of pitting too. Can't forget the ARP headstuds/bolts.
Please refrain from giving the guy incorrect information.
BUT how is all of that simpler then just putting a 7MGTE in there? and even if it is somehow a little simpler, how is my advise wrong? If It was me, I would get a complet 7MGTE and sell the N/A and go from there. But to each their own.
11-28-2006, 03:49 PM
#19
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Originally Posted by hacker_720
Ok, if it's true there are only block off plates on the block and on the oil pan, then your right it might be simpler to get a turbo. If the oil squirters are a simple and no tapping is needed, then maybe it would be better to just turbo the N/A, and the CR is fine, you right.
BUT how is all of that simpler then just putting a 7MGTE in there? and even if it is somehow a little simpler, how is my advise wrong? If It was me, I would get a complet 7MGTE and sell the N/A and go from there. But to each their own.
BUT how is all of that simpler then just putting a 7MGTE in there? and even if it is somehow a little simpler, how is my advise wrong? If It was me, I would get a complet 7MGTE and sell the N/A and go from there. But to each their own.
I suggested turbo'ing the N/A block as I know the guy is looking to spend the least amount of money as needed. No point in blowing $700+ on a GTE block, especially when nobody would buy a high milleage N/A block, and if they did it would be $150 or something. The oil squirters you could get for free from someone like myself (if i even still have old ones, I probably threw them out).
The PROPPER way would be to strip down the block and have it inspected and a full bottom end rebuild. As well as inspecting and replacing all the seals in the head. But for that cost, you are better off throwing in a tried and tested bullet proof 2jz.
11-29-2006, 05:31 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by SuprAdam
This is not supra weather. 
Originally Posted by 5PointOHNO
If what you're saying is true, then what are you doing typing on a forum? Shouldn't you be slaying Hayabusas on the 407?
Last edited by B6T; 11-29-2006 at 05:32 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
11-29-2006, 09:53 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by SuprAdam
It does.
This is not supra weather.
This is not supra weather.
Originally Posted by SuprAdam
Give me $1500 to buy tires and we can make something happen.
11-30-2006, 04:47 PM
#30
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Originally Posted by TOILETDUCK
HAHAHA, 1500 bucks for tires???
If these swaps are so easy has it been 4 years since your car has been out and about running daily. I heard you blab about running 11's years ago, and still nothing.
If these swaps are so easy has it been 4 years since your car has been out and about running daily. I heard you blab about running 11's years ago, and still nothing.
And you blabing about 9's.
But yes I admit I said a lot of stupid things. I was new and young.
Originally Posted by 002zz
^^ Not mine, but similar to what i'm aiming for.
Ron's car is beautiful.
Last edited by SuprAdam; 11-30-2006 at 04:48 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost