Vwalexvw
07-18-2005, 08:28 PM
#46
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True... but a heavier FWD car with more power will have the same problems, just on a larger scale.
07-18-2005, 08:31 PM
#47
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What were you using for slicks? I'd like to see what my car can do with a set. but want to see what similar cars are running. One of my buddies is using Hoosier dot slicks and likes them.
07-18-2005, 10:33 PM
#48
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actually a good 2L 16valve will take over 15psi stock
350whp daily, thats a proven fact man, many people have that done
350whp daily, thats a proven fact man, many people have that done
07-19-2005, 12:15 AM
#49
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Well with a good slick almost any car will hook better,
To good a tire and hook will kill FWD parts were a most RWD difs can be made to take more power. How long till G force or some other compnay come sout with a FWD diff and tranny that can handle the power some of the 4 bangers can make.
To good a tire and hook will kill FWD parts were a most RWD difs can be made to take more power. How long till G force or some other compnay come sout with a FWD diff and tranny that can handle the power some of the 4 bangers can make.
07-19-2005, 01:30 AM
#50
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Most aftermarket FWD limited slips are strong enough for almost any power you could put through it. Remember that a 450hp FWD car will never have as high of a strain on it's drivetrain then a 450hp RWD car. I'd think on most FWD cars, traction would be what saves the transmission from exploding.. simple weight transfer and limited drive wheel traction because of it would reduce the maximum possible load on the diff in a FWD car. Does this make sense or am I on crack?
20"x14"x6"... my engine only makes about 160ft/lbs of torque, and if I drop it from ~3500rpm, they will spin right through first and spin a tiny bit in second. I would suggest getting a 24" slick, probably on a 15" rim (not sure of the available sizes) because you're making a hell of a lot power then me, and if I can spin a slick in first with 160ft lbs, then I'd be afraid to see what would happen if you put that small of a slick on your car. But I think one of the best things you can get is struts that have dampening adjustability. I'd buy them before I ever bought a slick. Putting on a slick will help, but if you have the suspension set up properly, you may be able to get the same numbers then you would have if you had bought slicks instead. And then you wouldn't have to worry about putting a slick on to be able to hook up.
Originally Posted by rabbitman
What were you using for slicks? I'd like to see what my car can do with a set. but want to see what similar cars are running. One of my buddies is using Hoosier dot slicks and likes them.
07-19-2005, 03:24 AM
#51
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Actually, the only reason you spin the slick so much in your FWD car with such little torque is due to weight distribution. When you load up a FWD car, the weight is transfered from the the front of the car, thus cause the tires to spin. This is why alot of FWD have shitty 60' times. You need to alter the front suspension so it keeps the weight down on the tires to get them to hook better.
07-19-2005, 12:58 PM
#52
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Thanks that's pretty much what I just said...
07-19-2005, 02:24 PM
#53
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Originally Posted by biggy
actually a good 2L 16valve will take over 15psi stock
350whp daily, thats a proven fact man, many people have that done
350whp daily, thats a proven fact man, many people have that done
And once he got his heard ported (to what he claim i think 28 cfm bifference) and his pistons treated, he made 290 WHP @ 14 psi?
I'd like to see these daily driven 15psi 350 whp 16V's u speak of.
07-19-2005, 03:29 PM
#54
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[QUOTE B6T] 20"x14"x6"... my engine only makes about 160ft/lbs of torque, and if I drop it from ~3500rpm, they will spin right through first and spin a tiny bit in second. I would suggest getting a 24" slick, probably on a 15" rim (not sure of the available sizes) because you're making a hell of a lot power then me, and if I can spin a slick in first with 160ft lbs, then I'd be afraid to see what would happen if you put that small of a slick on your car. But I think one of the best things you can get is struts that have dampening adjustability. I'd buy them before I ever bought a slick. Putting on a slick will help, but if you have the suspension set up properly, you may be able to get the same numbers then you would have if you had bought slicks instead. And then you wouldn't have to worry about putting a slick on to be able to hook up.[/QUOTE]
Yeah I've got Bilstein adjustables now, but am having such a traction problem, I'm not sure how much good they do on the strip. I think they might be shaving .1 sec off my 60 ft, but once I hit third, I can use my torque. I really only have to pedal through first and second. Once I hit third I can go about 3/4 throttle, but have to get off it at 9500 to shift, and once I'm in fourth, she goes right to the mat, and that's generally when I break my rear tranny mount. And before anybody says just weld it, I drive this car on the highway all the time and do not want to vibrate my fillings out. (I tried it like that for about 20 mins). Thanks Fred. I'll make some calls and see what I can find in a 15"x24" slick. I'm not really interested in a DOT slick, so that should make it a little easier.
Yeah I've got Bilstein adjustables now, but am having such a traction problem, I'm not sure how much good they do on the strip. I think they might be shaving .1 sec off my 60 ft, but once I hit third, I can use my torque. I really only have to pedal through first and second. Once I hit third I can go about 3/4 throttle, but have to get off it at 9500 to shift, and once I'm in fourth, she goes right to the mat, and that's generally when I break my rear tranny mount. And before anybody says just weld it, I drive this car on the highway all the time and do not want to vibrate my fillings out. (I tried it like that for about 20 mins). Thanks Fred. I'll make some calls and see what I can find in a 15"x24" slick. I'm not really interested in a DOT slick, so that should make it a little easier.
Last edited by rabbitman; 07-19-2005 at 05:22 PM.
07-19-2005, 03:37 PM
#55
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Originally Posted by NOTORIOUS VR
Is that why there is a guy with a white boosted Sirocco 16V he only made like 270 whp @ 16 psi on pump gas?
And once he got his heard ported (to what he claim i think 28 cfm bifference) and his pistons treated, he made 290 WHP @ 14 psi?
I'd like to see these daily driven 15psi 350 whp 16V's u speak of.
And once he got his heard ported (to what he claim i think 28 cfm bifference) and his pistons treated, he made 290 WHP @ 14 psi?
I'd like to see these daily driven 15psi 350 whp 16V's u speak of.
BTW the standard 16v scirrocos were 1.8l not 2l 16vs. Makes a big difference on torque.
07-19-2005, 04:08 PM
#56
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Originally Posted by rabbitman
At 15 psi, I'm making about 315 - 330, but the bottom end and rods are nowhere even close to being stock. And neither is my head. The head has been ported polished etc. I sure as hell wouldn't want to try and drive a Rabbit or scirrocco on the street at 16 psi. Good luck on a road that is sloped of towards the curb. Rabbits and Scirroccos were so bad for torque steer, that I generally just run 6-10 psi on the street. Anything more than that, and I'm all over the road trying to keep it off the curbs. And I know that a front sway bar would eliminate some of it, but I autocross as well and know better than to put a sway bar on a front wheel drive.
BTW the standard 16v scirrocos were 1.8l not 2l 16vs. Makes a big difference on torque.
BTW the standard 16v scirrocos were 1.8l not 2l 16vs. Makes a big difference on torque.
So from someone that owns a boosted 16V, do you think a bone stock 16V will make 350 WHP @ 15psi daily driven?
07-19-2005, 06:14 PM
#57
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Originally Posted by SirChirpAlot
Well with a good slick almost any car will hook better,
To good a tire and hook will kill FWD parts were a most RWD difs can be made to take more power. How long till G force or some other compnay come sout with a FWD diff and tranny that can handle the power some of the 4 bangers can make.
To good a tire and hook will kill FWD parts were a most RWD difs can be made to take more power. How long till G force or some other compnay come sout with a FWD diff and tranny that can handle the power some of the 4 bangers can make.
07-19-2005, 07:03 PM
#58
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Originally Posted by NOTORIOUS VR
And there you go... and the guy with the white one is running a 2L 16V not a 1.8L.
So from someone that owns a boosted 16V, do you think a bone stock 16V will make 350 WHP @ 15psi daily driven?
So from someone that owns a boosted 16V, do you think a bone stock 16V will make 350 WHP @ 15psi daily driven?
Well, after owning a few different VW's, I can tell you from experience. The 2L sucks, even the 16valve ones. They lack any sort of power. Ya, the 8 valve ones have 115hp, but it still feels slow like a 3 cyclinder firefly. I would take the old 1.7 non turbo diesiel motor over any 2L. Atleast it had some torque. The 1.8L is still the better engine though. With its 90hp, it will still smoke any 2L around stock to stock.
07-19-2005, 07:23 PM
#59
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Originally Posted by Strokerace
Well, after owning a few different VW's, I can tell you from experience. The 2L sucks, even the 16valve ones. They lack any sort of power. Ya, the 8 valve ones have 115hp, but it still feels slow like a 3 cyclinder firefly. I would take the old 1.7 non turbo diesiel motor over any 2L. Atleast it had some torque. The 1.8L is still the better engine though. With its 90hp, it will still smoke any 2L around stock to stock.
Show me a 1.8l GTi that will take a 2l 16v GTi. Good Luck.
07-19-2005, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by rabbitman
What are you on crack? That 1.7 diesel wouldn't even go 110 km/h. Even in a rabbit. The 1.8l 8v engine had lots of torque, but had no top end. The 1.8l 16v had lots of top end, but no torque. A 2l 16v put out 135 hp and 130 ft lbs of torque stock. Show me how a 1.8 with 90 hp (on a good day) and 108 ft lbs, is better than 135 and 130 respectively. The 2l 8v is a ing terrible engine. Put out maybe 110 hp and 120 ft lbs. Electrical problems, and most of them were auto. And before you go flaming me, I have owned 5 rabbits, 2 were diesel , 2 passats, both 2l 16v 5 speeds and 1 gti 2l 8v 5 speed. The fastest of all of these was the 2l 16v passat. The GTi would kepp up until 140km/h then the 135 hp at 5000 rpm even in the heavier passat would kill it. And 1.7l Diesel torque?!? HAHAHA!!! one of my rabbits had a diesel with 54,000 ks on it and wouldn't even go 110 downhill! 0 to 60 in 20 mins. Yeah great engine. Show me a 1.8l GTi that will take a 2l 16v GTi. Good Luck.
Show me a 1.8l GTi that will take a 2l 16v GTi. Good Luck.I guess you know sweet all about VW's then,othern then what you read in a book. The 1.7L deisel has no problem in doing 180km/h, along with the both the 1.8 and 2.0L. I have owned all 3 of these cars and I will tell you, the 1.7L will smoke any 2.0L out there including the 16v boat anchor. Hell, the 84 jetta that I had would do it too even with the 300,000 k's on the motor. They are junk motors. Ever since VW got rid of the k-jetronics injection system and went with the new digital system on the 2L, it lacks anything worth while. I own a piece of 2l now and at the same time, I had the 1.8 l and the 1.8 would smoke it in all areas. I guess what it boils down to is how you drive. And I can tell, you have never had a real VW under your foot.