Car dies
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~~ Hardcore Newb ~~
Joined: Jul 2006
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Car dies
I have an 89 Gt converted into a 93 cobra. The body and the motor.
When I drive it in hot weather, it dies. I changed the fuel pump so its not that. It doesnt do it in cold weather. And once it dies it wont start back up. It acts like its not getting enough fuel. Somone said that maybe its electrical...?
Please help!!
When I drive it in hot weather, it dies. I changed the fuel pump so its not that. It doesnt do it in cold weather. And once it dies it wont start back up. It acts like its not getting enough fuel. Somone said that maybe its electrical...?
Please help!!
~~ Hardcore Newb ~~
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 22
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so you have to wait for it to cool down to start back up? It doesn't sound like a fuel issue to me, try pulling the codes, but im not very familar with these cars however this still may help, on Audis they have cold and warm start valves, if ford has them too then the csv or isv may be dead, and causing it to start hard or not start at all.
~~ Hardcore Newb ~~
Joined: Jan 2006
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sounds like the fuel pump, i got a ford f150 that is doing the same thing. but you said you changed the pump already, i know on gm's when the module on the distributor gets hot the motor won't run but i don't know if it's the same for the fords. good luck and let us know.
the pump you put in, you know it's good?
the pump you put in, you know it's good?
~~ Hardcore Newb ~~
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 193
Rep Power: 745
sounds like the fuel pump, i got a ford f150 that is doing the same thing. but you said you changed the pump already, i know on gm's when the module on the distributor gets hot the motor won't run but i don't know if it's the same for the fords. good luck and let us know.
the pump you put in, you know it's good?
the pump you put in, you know it's good?
Well, i had this same issue that stumped me for ages. I would drive the car, all of sudden it would kick off, and sometimes while coasting fire up again.
I thought it was the fuel pump too!
I replaced it, low and behold 3 days later same thing. I took it too a local shop called TAG and they said it was my alternator, i replaced it.
Was not my alternator!
Finally, i took it to another shop where they tested the electrical. Short of it was the computer. The computer was overheating and shutting off the pump. I replaced it and the car has worked flawless since!
So, maybe you can borrow a computer from someone and test it out.
Good luck
I thought it was the fuel pump too!
I replaced it, low and behold 3 days later same thing. I took it too a local shop called TAG and they said it was my alternator, i replaced it.
Was not my alternator!
Finally, i took it to another shop where they tested the electrical. Short of it was the computer. The computer was overheating and shutting off the pump. I replaced it and the car has worked flawless since!
So, maybe you can borrow a computer from someone and test it out.
Good luck
~~ Hardcore Newb ~~
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 12
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mt truk used to do that all the time... tell i finally relized the littl ebugger was spitting out its coolant...
but the computer thing is quite possible. i have never had sucha problem before. so i am not sure.
fuel pump defintly not that.
bring it to a shop and get them to scan it.
scanning it can save you money.
but the computer thing is quite possible. i have never had sucha problem before. so i am not sure.
fuel pump defintly not that.
bring it to a shop and get them to scan it.
scanning it can save you money.
Junior GTcars Poster
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 347
Rep Power: 753
Could be a number of things. There is a possiblity that the fuel pump you got has failed as well, its happened before. Have the fuel pressure tested at idle and AT LOAD. I hope you replaced your fuel filter when you changed the pump, a clogged filter could cause pump over heating.
Also, check the green relay under the drivers seat. Especially if you install a high flow fuel pump, it will put more pressure on the 14 gauge wire and cause it and the relay to heat up and shut down. I had that problem in my Stang and I ran an 8 gauge wire with a relay to the back and it went away. I recommend that for any modded Stang with an upgraded fuel pump anyway, as a thicker gauge = more consistent power and no fuel drop off at the top end of the power band due to fuel starvation caused by lower fuel pump voltage. Also, it could be a bad inertia switch (located on the drivers side behind the taillight). Do not bypass the inertia switch for long, only try that for a very short period. God forbid if you were rear ended and the fuel pump kept pumping......
Also, check ALL the ground leads on the engine/chassis. If they have corroded it will cause grounding problems that lead to over heating of wires which can lead to a fire. The most important grounds are in the engine bay, from the battery to the engine block, battery to shock tower on driver side, engine to firewall (ground strap), and also the computer ground (orange wire on drivers side cylinder head). I would also check the ground in the rear in the middle between the taillights.
Take it to an expert that deals with Stangs, most of us have dealt with a problem like this before.
SS
Also, check the green relay under the drivers seat. Especially if you install a high flow fuel pump, it will put more pressure on the 14 gauge wire and cause it and the relay to heat up and shut down. I had that problem in my Stang and I ran an 8 gauge wire with a relay to the back and it went away. I recommend that for any modded Stang with an upgraded fuel pump anyway, as a thicker gauge = more consistent power and no fuel drop off at the top end of the power band due to fuel starvation caused by lower fuel pump voltage. Also, it could be a bad inertia switch (located on the drivers side behind the taillight). Do not bypass the inertia switch for long, only try that for a very short period. God forbid if you were rear ended and the fuel pump kept pumping......
Also, check ALL the ground leads on the engine/chassis. If they have corroded it will cause grounding problems that lead to over heating of wires which can lead to a fire. The most important grounds are in the engine bay, from the battery to the engine block, battery to shock tower on driver side, engine to firewall (ground strap), and also the computer ground (orange wire on drivers side cylinder head). I would also check the ground in the rear in the middle between the taillights.
Take it to an expert that deals with Stangs, most of us have dealt with a problem like this before.
SS
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