NOTORIOUS VR

I think what Supra_DT means, is that after a while like 400-500HP... the 20 WHP u gain by using a dump is hardly noticed... and that there is no reason bother with a dump.

But I do agree to a point with u as well.. because it does get annoying after a while with a loud exhaust... and no matter what anyone says.... a big exhaust will always be loud.

On a car with less power, it will make some difference.

SuprAdam

When all is said and done (finished my car, whenever that may be) The goal is 400whp on pump gas. Which I can do on the turbo I will be using, but I will hopefully be switching to another one later on in the year. I understand what you are saying tho, but since my exhaust is only 2.75" (crush bent, with one cat and a resonator) Having the dump before the cat will make some noticable gains for me, I hope.

supra_DT

I was using the 4" - 3"inch as an example to describe as a use of a reducer because blackout_89T was worried/asking that by using a reducer from a 2.75 to 3inch if it would affect performance. Which it won't because the difference between the measurements he has is quite minimal 9only 1/4 inch) comapred to using a reducer of up to one inch+ that a lot of people do. I wasn't actually recommending he get a 4 inch DP because that would be way overkill for his goals of 400 rwhp. Just using an example where a reducer is used in a more extreme case (1 inch+)than what blackout has (1/4 inch).

In the case of an inexpensive exhausts (i.e. crush bent/smaller diameters) then yes, you would notice a difference in power gains by using a dump like Notorious said.

Gains will also vary depending on the exhaust you have as well. Shitty, small diameter exhaust will obviously yield greater gains with a dump. They will be minimal if you have a larger, properly bent (mandrel) exhaust and muffler.


Your buddy must have a small diameter or a very poorly designed exhaust then. Also keep in mind that if you don't have a boost controller and you run an open exhaust, your turbo will boost even higher, contributing to the larger hp gains.

SuprAdam

^ 3" DP with dump, and then I think it is 2.5" cat back with HKS dual tip muffler. The restriction is his shitty "midas" cat. Runs were done with the same psi (avc-r on an SP63), same fuel tuning etc.

Anyways I understand what you are trying to say.

Supra90T

Adam man, don't ruin my nice old QUIET exhaust...Honestly, if I was still stock turbo I wish I still had it. It was so smooth and refined...My exhaust, well I'm sure you've heard it many times closed or open so that's that....
The dump will leak no matter what, so your car WILL get louder...And you want it welded straight onto the DP, not a y-pipe

PS I could have sworn eric gained more around 80 with open dump(I was there and my ears STILL hurt)...
its 2.5" univ cat, 2.75" hks catback

SuprAdam

^meh, could be.

But I am NOT staying stock turbo. When the car becomes driveable again, it may or may not be stock turbo. But before the season is over, it for sure won't be stock. So you better keep hanging out with Ang and get him to tune your car, or else you will never beat me. :hah:

How do you mean weld it right to the DP? Basically hack up my existing DP and weld in a small 3 inch pipe section on the side and weld the dump right onto that?

Supra90T

Um, I never realized Ang tuned my car? lol
Put it this way...If you do ANY sort of Y-pipe it'll make it much more restrictive when the dump is closed.
With the way mine is setup, It flows straight past it when its closed instead of building up backpressure

General

I was readin that some of the EDT melt.... i wouldnt get the boost ativated one...


if you get any one... make sure the motor is not touchin the Pipe or it will melt..

SuprAdam

Boost activated, yet kind of unique, is plain retarded. From what I have seen of the electric ones on supras, the wires melt, not the motor. But this was on the old McCord dumps, not the MPP2 which is supposed to be better. Two others have this one with no trouble so far.

turbocivic

"Celebrity appearence" That quick time performance dump valve was a peice of , the motor broke in 24 hours used 5 others and they all broke, the only thing I got still going is the big block chev from the dixie/dundas hobie store, save money and screw the elecronic dump vlave.

It was fun when it worked, but that was hardly ever.....

General

now we have the real facts, save your money and Buy the manual one

Supra90T

Those aren't facts, they're experiences...My dump worked fine until I bottomed out and scraped the switch off - I'm ordering the new parts and don't expect to have any problems with it this year...

Fast Eddie

Dont even bother with the reducers and chopping a big big length out of your DP. cut off the 'dump' branch of the Y, cut a hole in your existing DP and weld it on there.

If I could go back, I would keep completely stock cat-back and just put an electronic cutout on my 3" DP.
IMHO, A cutout is one of the best things you can do for a turbo engine.

SuprAdam

Yea that is what I decided to do.


And no....One person has a bad experiene so EVERYONE will?

That is like saying one person has a FAST civic, so all civics must be fast

turbocivic

Ya of the 70 we sold, only about 40 broke, so I guess I just had a bad experience...... Quick time performance and other companies should learn about cars before making there products, the motor can't even handle 12 volts power there 9volt rc motors and they don't use loctite on bolts on a exhaust system? Ya no vibrations there...... I could go on and on, but I drove my car 50 xxxkm a year, there junk, its like the mr. gasket cable dump valves, they were somewhat a good idea, but there a 2inch y pipe and the cables stretched