NoRiceInside

well i went and got some new spark plug wires and the misfires are gone and its running smoothly...at least i think so. for some reason the cars barely any faster than before. i should have at least gained something because the old timing chain was worn and so was the cam, and the rocker arm booklet thingy said they should have added 15-30 hp. i noticed a tad bit of hesitation and the engine has a hard time finding a good idle, and it gets choppy in reverse.

im thinking...hoping the TPS is bad cuz the scanner said the ECU wasnt getting any voltage signal from it, is this why im not getting anymore power? or does it take awhile for it to really break in? and when does this dam lifter click go away?

69z-28

dont you haev to adjust them?lol. or is it different on those things. are they SAR's?

NoRiceInside

no hydraulic are non adjustable. whats SAR?

69z-28

o ok, i meant self adjusting rockers. i know there are NSAR's(non) and i heard you have to adjust them to get them right.idk.lol. good luck

JesasaurusRex

You replaced it with the same cam but new? How did you adjust the valves? Tell me step by step.

Drake

My friend had nothing but problems when he did the heads and cam on his 3.8L Camaro.....it never ran right, and he spend a lot of cash trying to make it run the way it should, all to no avail. The engine finally blew a rod (or something like that), so he just had a LS1 swapped into it, and then sold it to me.

NoRiceInside

oh ok. well yeah the rockers are adjustable, but i think the problem is with the ignition or fuel system.

no i replaced the timing set, cam, lifters, pushrods, rockers, springs, retainers, and locks all from CompCams. then i had the custom ported heads.

i adjusted the roller rockers just like the comp install guide said. i rotated the crank until the intake valve opened all the way then right before it closed, then i tightened the exhaust rocker and when there was a slight resistance on the pushrod i turned the nut another 1/2 turn. then i rotated the crank til the exhaust valve was just about to open, then i adjusted the intake rocker in the same way.

im pretty sure they were adjusted right, but if i tightened them too much would it be possible to have too much preload and could that cause it to run slower? to my understanding what that would do it cause it to run really crappy. the car runs good and stuff, its just not faster than it was.

the old cam had duration of 195/201 and a 1.5 rocker lift of .394/.409. the new cam has a duration of 212/212 and a 1.6 rocker lift of .469/.469. plus the lobes were horribly worn and the old timing chain was very worn as well, just replacing them with stock parts should have given me some gain. so since these were performance parts i should be goin really fast! :banghead:

JesasaurusRex

Did you turn the crank a 1/3rd of a turn (v6 right?) for every set of valves that you ajusted? Im kinda confused on how you knew the exhaust valve or intake valve were right about to open and close when you put a new cam in, meaning you did not have any rockers on. Do it like this mark up the timing marks on the balancer with the one on your timing cover. Make sure #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke and not # what ever the 4th firing cylinder on a v6 is. Loosen both rockers. Tighten the intake valve until you cant really spin the pushrod with your oil fingers anymore. Then do the exhaust valve the same way. Turn your engine over (BY HAND) 1/3 of a turn. Now ajust the intake and exhaust valves on what ever cylinder is next in the firing order the same way i described above. Then turn 1/3 of a turn again and keep repeating until you have all the valves done.

JesasaurusRex

My Chiltons/Haynes (dont remember which one been a while since i fliped through it) manual has a confusing as way of adjusting valves. It says get #1 at TDC then do like half of the intake valves and half the exhaust valves and some nonsence. Then turn the engine 1 full rotation and do the remaining. Did it my first time and it ran and sounded like complete crap. Friend came by and told me to do what i just told you to do. Meaning 1 cylinder at a time. Been doing it that way ever since (just did it today actually on my friends chevy truck).

NoRiceInside

well i know its not the problem. its running great and doesnt have any problems. its just not any faster than it was before. i think the TPS is bad so the ecu is running in open loop mode...did i lose you yet jess?

JesasaurusRex

AHHHHH FI talk , ya i cant really help ya out with the fuel injected stuff. Hope ya fix it bro

NoRiceInside

yeah i really really really hope that its in open loop mode cuz that would explain why its as slow as before and why the exhaust doesnt sound much different than before

archemedes

that's obd1 isn't it? if so the cheapy scan tool will tell if it's in open or closed loop (which is done by the o2 sensor) if the tps was bad you's ahev no throttle response it does take some time for teh ecm to reprogram, it may not feel faster but if you did a track run before, and one now that would show whta the difference is

NoRiceInside

it takes time for the ecu to reprogram? you mean for the ecu to relearn the new fuel requirements? ha i knew it! i told that to my friend when i started it for the first time and he was like what, that sounds weird. so what do i need to drive it for a few hundred miles for it to be faster???

JesasaurusRex

No if you have your battery disconnected for more than 30 seconds i believe it was. It throws the old stuff out the window and re learns it. Im guessing you already had your battery disconnected for 30 seconds when you were putting everything on.