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Old 08-25-2006, 09:45 PM
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aight thats cool!
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Old 08-25-2006, 10:15 PM
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forgot to anwswer your question... the clutch seems better now, im not sure if its my imagination or what but it grips hard when i grab the gears so its all good.
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Old 08-26-2006, 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Jpack
You will need the adjust. ones if your car is lowered. LCAs and Panhard just so you know.
really? i knew about the panhard but i thought all you needed was anti squats.
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Old 08-26-2006, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by NoRiceInside
really? i knew about the panhard but i thought all you needed was anti squats.

Adjust. Panhard for lowered cars, LCAs if installing with relocation brackets. The relocation brackets are a key to the set up. You can then preload the car at the track. this is 1 key way to get the power to the ground.
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Old 08-26-2006, 11:36 AM
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my car is stock WS6 height so im not getting adjustable.lol
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Old 08-26-2006, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Jpack
Adjust. Panhard for lowered cars, LCAs if installing with relocation brackets. The relocation brackets are a key to the set up. You can then preload the car at the track. this is 1 key way to get the power to the ground.
so wait, youre saying if i do relocation brackets i also need adj LCAs? i thought the relocation brackets were to save you the cost of adj LCAS...
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Old 08-26-2006, 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by NoRiceInside
so wait, youre saying if i do relocation brackets i also need adj LCAs? i thought the relocation brackets were to save you the cost of adj LCAS...
The brackets have typically 3 holes to set the lca's in. Middle would be normal setting. To get your LCA's into these holes you need to be able to reach them. To do this, you adjust the lcas to reach them. If you had non adj. ones they wouldn't reach the holes. Top hole the lca would be past the hole, lower one would be before the hole. The purpose of the brackets are to load the suspension for normal, road race, drag race or if the car has been lowered. The adj. panhard will recenter the the rear end on a lowered car. It can also be used just like in NASCAR to help in cornering when taking turns during road racing (Auto X) If you want to read up more about how this all works, try these sites. Should give you a good understanding on how the entire F body suspension works.

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/

http://robmeadway.com/fbodysuspguide.htm
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Old 08-27-2006, 12:32 AM
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interesting...it always looked to me as if the holes in the relocation brackets were curved to match the swing of the control arm.
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Old 08-27-2006, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by NoRiceInside
interesting...it always looked to me as if the holes in the relocation brackets were curved to match the swing of the control arm.

Well I guess that might depend on the manufacturer. That would be kind of a generic set up. That way would be assuming that everything is in line and perfectly straight and even.
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Old 08-27-2006, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 69z-28

Joe, i understand what you are saying about the power and bogging issue, i think next time i go, i will try around 18 psi or so, play with that, and then practice the launches around 2,500 give or take a bit and see what works best. also i was shifting around 5,500 mostly, however stock tach.lol. that was one thign my dad and i were tlaking about after we left, but i never really played with it to test the differences.

Jim, if you dont mind me asking what were you pulling for 60's and how were your ETs and traps?

try between 3000 - 3500 and slip the clutch till u get traction also dont just mash the gas to the floor...kinda ease into it and when it starts to hook then nail it. thats what i would do with street tires with the bfg dr's i would take it up to around 3500 and punch it last time i went to the track it was after a slick only night so it was sticky as all hell so it would rip off the line with no spin and then bog on me a bit but i was able to get 1.9 - 2.0 60 fts. which i wasnt happy with i wanted a 1.8...so i need practice as well.


if u want i dont have my car no more and my bald bfg dr's are just sitting in the garage u could give them a shot.
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Old 08-27-2006, 02:35 PM
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ive done that before on the street. i launched it hard but i kinda left the clutch out a bit, a few times i did it too much and smelled some clutch burn but it did give me a really nice launch.
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Old 08-27-2006, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Madison Dave
if u want i dont have my car no more
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Old 08-27-2006, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Madison Dave
try between 3000 - 3500 and slip the clutch till u get traction also dont just mash the gas to the floor...kinda ease into it and when it starts to hook then nail it. thats what i would do with street tires with the bfg dr's i would take it up to around 3500 and punch it last time i went to the track it was after a slick only night so it was sticky as all hell so it would rip off the line with no spin and then bog on me a bit but i was able to get 1.9 - 2.0 60 fts. which i wasnt happy with i wanted a 1.8...so i need practice as well.


if u want i dont have my car no more and my bald bfg dr's are just sitting in the garage u could give them a shot.
yea thats exactly my plan, ive done it on the street once like Caleb said, and it wasnt the greatest feeling but it did seem to take off fastest. im gonna try 2500-3000, maybe move it up depending.

Thanks anyways Dave but i have another friend who actually has the same tires he is giving me and he's closer.lol. and yea whats with no car anymore???
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Old 08-27-2006, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 69z-28
Thanks anyways Dave but i have another friend who actually has the same tires he is giving me and he's closer.lol.
You're crazy, if anything I'd take them and just shoot some awesome burnout video's. I'd love to do that myself.
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