viper-blue

(quote) "you will be disappointed if you put in a b16, you'll run low 15s all day long, the cr-vtec should run low 14s all day long if not better, doesnt sound like a big difference, but it is when you're at the track. leave the b16 to the crx"

I've been doing a lot of research trying to decide on a swap for my 89 crx. Sorry to thread jack, but I've heard a few people make the comment about leaving the b16 for the crx. Is this due to the lighter weight of the crx? The more I read up on the b20's and all the possible head combos, the more I want one

drift_n_shift

yes its due to the lighter weight. and we're taking about leaving the b16 to the crx as a best bang for buck option. if you can afford a little more, obviously a b20/vtec or something with more whp would be faster. do your research on the b20 though, as stated before, they have weak sleeves that are prone to crack.

b16apowerd

I think ls vtec...easier for parts..and from experience..know they can take a hell of a beating

IntegraMark

iTrader: (1)

you'll get 200whp easier with the b20. don't forget the cost POV. b20 will cost you an extra 300-500 over getting an LS. high compression pistons in 81mm bore are easier to source out and cheaper than hi-comp 84mm

with the LS block you can use type-r or b16 piston and get 11+:1 compression ratio and it won't hurt your pocket book as hard

if you want a rev happy bottom end get the rods shot peened, crank balanced and micro polished, ACL Race main and rod bearings, ARP main studs and rod bolts and Hastings rings for whatever piston you decide to use. also bore and hone the cylinders and line hone the main journals and caps to ensure a fresh surface for all the bearings and rings

should you decide on using type-r pistons you have to machine the hole on the wrist pin end to fit the type-r wrist pin. i went with PR3's because they give higher compression and didn't have machine the rod. on the other hand the P73 piston has an anti friction coating on the piston skirt to assist in high revs. you can get the best of both worlds with RS Machines PR3 pistons.

better yet, instead of reading my blabbering i'll link you to what i call my bible
Honda-Tech.com: All Motor: How to build a "reliable" lsvtec/b20vtec
happy reading

JDM_tuning

hey guys whers a good shop in t.o where i can tune my car..i think im gonna go with the turbo set up jst need to know where to tune..and how much $$ thanks

IntegraMark

iTrader: (1)

. or if you wanna come out to hamilton, zman on the board can do it

JDM_tuning

i asked and they said about 800$ is ther anyone or anywhere that i can get a good tune from 100-600 $$??

drift_n_shift

find out who tunes with chrome. it probably will be cheaper

IntegraMark

iTrader: (1)

PM zman.

JDM_tuning

hey guys..heres the deal i have 5 grand to blow on my 94 hatch this summer..i have the d16z6 with alot of k;s tho...i need paint done and thats about it..the rest is too goo fast wat do u guys think i should do? any input would help thanks!

drift_n_shift

thanks for the info, and thanks for the link mark. took me awhile to finish it with on and off reading, but it has some great information. thanks again

drift_n_shift

you can...

replace the d16z6 with another one. get or piece together a turbo kit for it, and get some arp head studs. depending on the motor price, you should be looking at 1500 right here. you can boost that with low psi untill you build the bottom end

fyi, do you have rust on your car? if not, or minimal, a new paint job and rust fix should cost around 1500-2000 depending on what needs to be doen and the place.

or...
you car is white correct? personally, if you have rust on the quarters, if the budget permits, i would just fix the quarters and spray paint it white, or get them to paint it white. quarters are 50 a peice, and people usually charge around 250 per side with paint. as someone put it, white is a forgiving color, and it will blend well with the orig. paint (i've seen it done before). you can add clear and sand and buff, and get a nice paint job later.

or you can boost the d for roughly 2500-3000 or less with tuning. then spend $500 on a boomerang2 or another gps tracking, (if you don't have one) and save 200 for a yearly fees. with the left over, either fix the quarters, rims, or just save it for next year and get a nice paintjob.

or actually, this is a good idea too. i would do this if i were you.
get another d16 (**read the bottom of this post), rebuild it (bottom end for now, head if you can afford it) add forged pistons and rods, and arp headstuds (and possibly other things need for a turbo). take out your old d16 and take out everything from the engine bay and send your car in for paint (body, door jambs, and engine bay, rust fix etc), put the newly rebuilt one in, get a gps tracking unit, maybe some rims, and call it a day. break in the rebuild and next year boost it.

**you can use your current d16, but you have to take it out, send it to the shop for a rebuild and parts install. if you have another car and can wait the time it takes for this to happen, you can do this too, if not, get a spare one.

IntegraMark

iTrader: (1)

no prob bro. that link is my Bible. i'm actually building mine with alot of the same parts he mentioned or already has.....and some extras