Spoon cams?
#1
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Spoon cams?
Need some advice...
I was thinking of picking up some spoon cams but I'm not sure if they will make the power I want...
Whats a better choice?
Spoon cams
Skunk 2 Pro 2s
Skun 2 Pro 3s
Toda Killer cams
Im looking to make 230whp all motor naturally aspirated B20VTEC...
What the rest of my setup will be like:
B20B block
B16a2 head
Titanium Valve springs and retainers(company not choosen yet)
Edelbrock Victor X intake mani
70MM throttle body
RMF race header
B16A2 Hydro LSD tranny
Some head head work
2.5inch piping all the way through the back
Hondata s200
thats all I can think of right now...
Give me some suggestions please
I was thinking of picking up some spoon cams but I'm not sure if they will make the power I want...
Whats a better choice?
Spoon cams
Skunk 2 Pro 2s
Skun 2 Pro 3s
Toda Killer cams
Im looking to make 230whp all motor naturally aspirated B20VTEC...
What the rest of my setup will be like:
B20B block
B16a2 head
Titanium Valve springs and retainers(company not choosen yet)
Edelbrock Victor X intake mani
70MM throttle body
RMF race header
B16A2 Hydro LSD tranny
Some head head work
2.5inch piping all the way through the back
Hondata s200
thats all I can think of right now...
Give me some suggestions please
#2
Is it for the EG? I would just go with Skunk2 (regular or pro) Stage 1 or 2 cams. The only reason you would need stage 3 is if your car is an strict circuit car. The powerband for stage 2 or 3 is further up so on the street you won't be able to really use it without getting attention (i.e. cops).
Toda Vtec killer cams make you have vtec 100% of the time. Aggressive cam lobes all the time. When street racing is dying in Toronto there's no need to run this unless, again, it's a track-only car.
Spoon cams have an all around good profile. They are pretty much like an upgraded ctr or type r. But being spoon, they are going to be hard to find and expensive.
I would just go with skunk2's.
Toda Vtec killer cams make you have vtec 100% of the time. Aggressive cam lobes all the time. When street racing is dying in Toronto there's no need to run this unless, again, it's a track-only car.
Spoon cams have an all around good profile. They are pretty much like an upgraded ctr or type r. But being spoon, they are going to be hard to find and expensive.
I would just go with skunk2's.
#3
have you changed the pistons? or any block work for that matter? you'll need a higher compression to achieve numbers like that.
i'd say go for some Buddy Club Spec 3's
there's a set for sale BNIB for $550 on Toronto Integras
i'd say go for some Buddy Club Spec 3's
there's a set for sale BNIB for $550 on Toronto Integras
#4
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Rep Power: 703 Is it for the EG? I would just go with Skunk2 (regular or pro) Stage 1 or 2 cams. The only reason you would need stage 3 is if your car is an strict circuit car. The powerband for stage 2 or 3 is further up so on the street you won't be able to really use it without getting attention (i.e. cops).
Toda Vtec killer cams make you have vtec 100% of the time. Aggressive cam lobes all the time. When street racing is dying in Toronto there's no need to run this unless, again, it's a track-only car.
Spoon cams have an all around good profile. They are pretty much like an upgraded ctr or type r. But being spoon, they are going to be hard to find and expensive.
I would just go with skunk2's.
Toda Vtec killer cams make you have vtec 100% of the time. Aggressive cam lobes all the time. When street racing is dying in Toronto there's no need to run this unless, again, it's a track-only car.
Spoon cams have an all around good profile. They are pretty much like an upgraded ctr or type r. But being spoon, they are going to be hard to find and expensive.
I would just go with skunk2's.
Ya this is going to be for the eg... Reason I'm asking about the spoon cams is because my cousin is going to be going to Japan in september/october. He asked me if I wanted anything... So I searched up prices and those spoon cams retail for around $850CND in japan. Not a bad deal if you ask me...
BTW I want to run this car in SuperStreet ALL MOTOR later in the year...
And about the block...
I was thinking of just doing a Block guard + 84MM ITR pistons and some rods. But then from what I've seen on honda-tech. It seems like the Weisco pistons + eagle rods is also a good way to go.
If I do go for the weisco pistons will the 12.5 high compression pistons be enough to get me into that powerband?
Right now I'm just trying to gather information so I can start ordering parts
I have been keeping track of all the b20/vtecs in honda-tech and most of them are stock block making 220whp+
#5
If you go into the 12:1 area you should be able to achieve those numbers with the right tuning. if it is not tuned properly and professionally you may loose alot of those ponies.
fot the cams, drift & shift is right. choose wisely for your application, if you are still running on the streets then stage 3 should be out of the question. as you go with a higher stage the peak power bands go up. so a street dtrip might peak at 7000-8000. but when you get to stage 3's your usually looking around 8500-9500 peak power. and are you taking a 2.0 that high????
if you can find it go to Sport Compact Car's web site and look up "June 06" on pg 50. The article is Tuning Miths: The Truth...
fot the cams, drift & shift is right. choose wisely for your application, if you are still running on the streets then stage 3 should be out of the question. as you go with a higher stage the peak power bands go up. so a street dtrip might peak at 7000-8000. but when you get to stage 3's your usually looking around 8500-9500 peak power. and are you taking a 2.0 that high????
if you can find it go to Sport Compact Car's web site and look up "June 06" on pg 50. The article is Tuning Miths: The Truth...
#6
personally i don't see any need to go with forged internals on the block since it's not gonna be boosted. Some ARP harware, Shot peened rods and RS Machines pistons are enough and won't cost a fortune. there's really no need for a block guard, again since it's not gonna be boosted but it's cheap insurance. as long as the block is built with good bearings, hardware and it's all balanced, 9000 RPM is easily possible.
the Buddy Club Spec3's aren't really a stage 3 cam they're more of a stage 2. they're notorious for giving great mid-range power over other cams and keeping the same power as a Skunk2 Stage2 at high RPM.
i found some info on HT regarding the cams here's what one guy said
Quote, originally posted by omniman »
who cares if it makes 5 more hp from 8k-9k i want the 18hp@5500
Honda-Tech.com: Acura Integra Type-R: Product Review: Buddy Club Spec III+ Cams
Honda-Tech.com: All Motor: Buddy Club Racing Spec III cams?
the Buddy Club Spec3's aren't really a stage 3 cam they're more of a stage 2. they're notorious for giving great mid-range power over other cams and keeping the same power as a Skunk2 Stage2 at high RPM.
i found some info on HT regarding the cams here's what one guy said
Quote, originally posted by omniman »
who cares if it makes 5 more hp from 8k-9k i want the 18hp@5500
Honda-Tech.com: Acura Integra Type-R: Product Review: Buddy Club Spec III+ Cams
Honda-Tech.com: All Motor: Buddy Club Racing Spec III cams?
#10
buddy clubs are as well
past 9000 rpm? you better make sure your block can handle that. if you make peak power at 8000 or even 8500 there's no need to pass 9000.
with a built b20 bottom and the buddy club Spec 3's your mid range power and torque will be insane. top end will be killer too but 9000+ might be useless which is fine cuz you don't need it when you got a crap load under 8500. Peak power is just bragging rights IMO
past 9000 rpm? you better make sure your block can handle that. if you make peak power at 8000 or even 8500 there's no need to pass 9000.
with a built b20 bottom and the buddy club Spec 3's your mid range power and torque will be insane. top end will be killer too but 9000+ might be useless which is fine cuz you don't need it when you got a crap load under 8500. Peak power is just bragging rights IMO
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